Indoor Oscorp Industries - Living Organics with Green Goblin

From what I have heard, I can still run the Autopots system with this organic soil right?
 
What to Compost

What you can put into your compost will depend somewhat on what kind of composter you have, but some general rules do apply. All compostable materials are either carbon or nitrogen-based, to varying degrees. The secret to a healthy compost pile is to maintain a working balance between these two elements.

The Secret to a Healthy Compost Pile: Carbon/Nitrogen Ratio
Carbon
Carbon-rich matter (like branches, stems, dried leaves, peels, bits of wood, bark dust or sawdust pellets, shredded brown paper bags, corn stalks, coffee filters, conifer needles, egg shells, straw, peat moss, wood ash) gives compost its light, fluffy body.

A healthy compost pile should have much more carbon than nitrogen.

Nitrogen
Nitrogen or protein-rich matter (manures, food scraps, green lawn clippings, and green leaves) provides raw materials for making enzymes.

A healthy compost pile should have much more carbon than nitrogen. A simple rule of thumb is to use one-third green and two-thirds brown materials. The bulkiness of the brown materials allows oxygen to penetrate and nourish the organisms that reside there. Too much nitrogen makes for a dense, smelly, slowly decomposing anaerobic mass. Good composting hygiene means covering fresh nitrogen-rich material, which can release odors if exposed to open air, with carbon-rich material, which often exudes a fresh, wonderful smell. If in doubt, add more carbon!

This table details how the items in your compost are likely to be classified:
Material Carbon/Nitrogen Information
Wood chips / pellets
(Carbon) High carbon levels; use sparingly
Wood ash (Carbon) Only use ash from clean materials; sprinkle lightly
Tea leaves (Nitrogen) Loose or in bags
Table Scraps (Nitrogen) Add with dry carbon items
Straw or hay (Carbon) Straw is best; hay (with seeds) is less ideal
Shrub prunings (Carbon) Woody prunings are slow to break down
Shredded paper (Carbon) Avoid using glossy paper and colored inks
Seaweed and kelp (Nitrogen) Apply in thin layers; good source for trace minerals
Sawdust pellets (Carbon) High carbon levels; add in layers to avoid clumping
Pine needles (Carbon) Acidic; use in moderate amounts
Newspaper (Carbon) Avoid using glossy paper and colored inks
Leaves (Carbon) Leaves break down faster when shredded
Lawn & garden weeds (Nitrogen) Only use weeds which have not gone to seed
Green comfrey leaves (Nitrogen) Excellent compost 'activator'
Grass clippings (Nitrogen) Add in thin layers so they don't mat into clumps
Garden plants -- Use disease-free plants only
Fruit and vegetable scraps (Nitrogen) Add with dry carbon items
Flowers, cuttings (Nitrogen) Chop up any long woody stems
Eggshells (Neutral) Best when crushed
Dryer lint (Carbon) Best if from natural fibers
Corn cobs, stalks (Carbon) Slow to decompose; best if chopped up
Coffee grounds (Nitrogen) Filters may also be included
Chicken manure (Nitrogen) Excellent compost 'activator'
Cardboard (Carbon) Shred material to avoid matting
 
pH measurement of compost

“Compost just happens” and it is not necessary for the gardener or recycler to know how or why. Action on the composter’s part to control the pH during composting is not normally necessary provided the process remains aerobic; you can just add the Greens and Browns (See Compost C: N Ratio) to the bin and leave them until they are turned into compost. However a greater understanding of the process can add to the enjoyment of composting and regularly and checking the pH during can enable the composter to monitor the process of decomposition. The pH levels in a compost bin will vary throughout the aerobic composition process as the microorganisms act on the material, it will also vary in different parts of the bin unless the material is regularly mixed. If anaerobic decomposition occurs and the contents start to turn black, wet and smelly, it will become more acidic due to the production of organic acids.

pH is the measure of the acidity or alkalinity or hydrogen ion activity of a soil or compost (on a logarithmic scale). from 0 to 14 with a pH or 7 being considered “neutral”. A pH change of one unit on the scale means a 10-fold increase or decrease of acidity. A pH of less than seven means that the substance is acidic while a value of above seven that it is alkaline.


pH changes in compost
Most finished composts are about neutral pH within a range from 6 – 8. However, the initial pH of home compost, being made with the usual mix of vegetable trimmings, food waste and other household compostable material, is likely to be more acidic perhaps between 5.0 and 7.0. If a significant proportion of the material being composted is wood shavings or peat moss, perhaps from chicken bedding, the pH may be as low as pH 4.5.

If the compost has been collected and stored to be added with other waste in a hot composting system and has started decomposing anaerobically e.g. in a heap of grass clippings, the anaerobic organisms will have produced acids lowering in the pH.

The initial pH of composts will be more alkaline, with a pH as high as 8.5, where the material contains a significant proportion of manure or wood ash.





Compost microorganisms grow and multiply within the pH range of 5.5 to 8. Organic acids are formed in the initial stages of the aerobic decomposition process and these acidic conditions favour the growth of fungi and the breakdown of lignin and cellulose. This means that if the initial pH of the material was six or seven it may fall due to the formation of these acids during the initial stage of the decomposition.

Where the initial pH is 5.0 or 5.5 the pH remains relatively constant during this period.

It is during these initial slightly acid conditions that the activity of composting microorganism causes the compost temperature to increase rapidly during the first few days and with it, the pH begins to rise, as the organic acids become neutralized giving mature compost generally a pH of between 6 and 8.

In addition to the initial microbial activity, compost can also become acidic when there is insufficient oxygen and the microbe activity becomes anaerobic. This may be due to having too many nitrogen rich greens in the bin e.g. grass cuttings, or lack of aeration.

Traditionally lime was incorporated into the compost heap and while lime will act as a buffer, keeping the pH from becoming too acidic or too alkaline. Adding lime is not necessary provided aerobic decomposition is maintained and even then, it is no longer favoured by many composters. Indeed, there is a view that the addition of lime may have an adverse effect because it causes nitrogen to be lost to the atmosphere as ammonia gas reducing the nitrogen content of the compost. Aerating or remixing the anaerobic material while including more “Browns” should return an anaerobic mixture to aerobic decomposition

The compost pH will become neutral or alkaline as it matures pH values of less than six and above eight may indicate a problem with the composting process or the source materials. If you use a maturation bin and have been monitoring the pH during the composting process continue to take readings until completion of the maturation process.
 
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What to Compost

What you can put into your compost will depend somewhat on what kind of composter you have, but some general rules do apply. All compostable materials are either carbon or nitrogen-based, to varying degrees. The secret to a healthy compost pile is to maintain a working balance between these two elements.

The Secret to a Healthy Compost Pile: Carbon/Nitrogen Ratio
Carbon
Carbon-rich matter (like branches, stems, dried leaves, peels, bits of wood, bark dust or sawdust pellets, shredded brown paper bags, corn stalks, coffee filters, conifer needles, egg shells, straw, peat moss, wood ash) gives compost its light, fluffy body.

A healthy compost pile should have much more carbon than nitrogen.

Nitrogen
Nitrogen or protein-rich matter (manures, food scraps, green lawn clippings, and green leaves) provides raw materials for making enzymes.

A healthy compost pile should have much more carbon than nitrogen. A simple rule of thumb is to use one-third green and two-thirds brown materials. The bulkiness of the brown materials allows oxygen to penetrate and nourish the organisms that reside there. Too much nitrogen makes for a dense, smelly, slowly decomposing anaerobic mass. Good composting hygiene means covering fresh nitrogen-rich material, which can release odors if exposed to open air, with carbon-rich material, which often exudes a fresh, wonderful smell. If in doubt, add more carbon!

This table details how the items in your compost are likely to be classified:
Material Carbon/Nitrogen Information
Wood chips / pellets
(Carbon) High carbon levels; use sparingly
Wood ash (Carbon) Only use ash from clean materials; sprinkle lightly
Tea leaves (Nitrogen) Loose or in bags
Table Scraps (Nitrogen) Add with dry carbon items
Straw or hay (Carbon) Straw is best; hay (with seeds) is less ideal
Shrub prunings (Carbon) Woody prunings are slow to break down
Shredded paper (Carbon) Avoid using glossy paper and colored inks
Seaweed and kelp (Nitrogen) Apply in thin layers; good source for trace minerals
Sawdust pellets (Carbon) High carbon levels; add in layers to avoid clumping
Pine needles (Carbon) Acidic; use in moderate amounts
Newspaper (Carbon) Avoid using glossy paper and colored inks
Leaves (Carbon) Leaves break down faster when shredded
Lawn & garden weeds (Nitrogen) Only use weeds which have not gone to seed
Green comfrey leaves (Nitrogen) Excellent compost 'activator'
Grass clippings (Nitrogen) Add in thin layers so they don't mat into clumps
Garden plants -- Use disease-free plants only
Fruit and vegetable scraps (Nitrogen) Add with dry carbon items
Flowers, cuttings (Nitrogen) Chop up any long woody stems
Eggshells (Neutral) Best when crushed
Dryer lint (Carbon) Best if from natural fibers
Corn cobs, stalks (Carbon) Slow to decompose; best if chopped up
Coffee grounds (Nitrogen) Filters may also be included
Chicken manure (Nitrogen) Excellent compost 'activator'
Cardboard (Carbon) Shred material to avoid matting

Sweet! Thanks Double G. This is what I needed. Now I can refer back to this post and get this thing right. I still have some hydro nutes. I will run two girls in the hydro and then two in the organic. I am looking forward to seeing the difference. Do you think the bottom feed system will wick well enough or would you also add an occasional top hand watering?
I guess as long as the main tap root is drinking from the bottom, the plant will grow well.
 
Sweet! Thanks Double G. This is what I needed. Now I can refer back to this post and get this thing right. I still have some hydro nutes. I will run two girls in the hydro and then two in the organic. I am looking forward to seeing the difference. Do you think the bottom feed system will wick well enough or would you also add an occasional top hand watering?
I guess as long as the main tap root is drinking from the bottom, the plant will grow well.

I guess with the autopots you are supposed to hand water in the beginning for so many days before turning the system on from what I'm getting..Adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil will help..Remember, you want to keep the area around the Rhizosphere moist and never let it dry out too much, so that is about 2-4" or so of the soil surface should stay moist..I still have some reading to do on autopots, but in between if the soil surface gets too too dry maybe a few cups of water top fed or mist the surface with a spray bottle but I won't know for sure until I try them out.
 
Couple random nugs from the jar

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