Outdoor Outdoor Organic Mephisto Grow in Northern Climate

Hello mate, that interesing your experiment. I put bag seed from auto flowers, not really good bud anyway , to test in the vege garden. Funny enough they survived the 4c nights and a few other cool mornings. The pests would be bad on young seedlings, almost completely devour one. I start indoors with autos for about 2 weeks then transplant to final pots outside., and suppliment the T5s with them 20/4 lighting plan. The plants to me look great still, i have a wavy leaved plants atm, well 2 one is ChemOG and the other is Durban Poison. They seem okay, the new growth is a bit lighter than the old
 
Hey all,

Here we go! Day 21, ladies seem to be spreading their wings and taking off quite nicely. This was a big week for them - they got topped maybe 4 or 5 days ago, didn't miss a beat it seems, and now I'm doing a little leaf tucking to help those side shoots take off.

Here are some shots organized by strain, I have 2 plants of each variety:
SODK:
View attachment 1206857View attachment 1206859
Hubbabubbasmelloscope, who appears to have more of a branching tendency in her genes:
View attachment 1206863View attachment 1206864
Alien v Triangle:
These want to grow very tall and lanky it seems - and huge internodal spacing so most leaves are untucked.
View attachment 1206872View attachment 1206873

Now I know y'all might drag me for saying this because the plant doesn't look too bad, but...I'm concerned about one or two of my AVT's because they are a slightly pale yellow (mostly in new growth - maybe a slight immobile nutrient deficiency?) and the new growth leaves are very skinny. I also am getting all 5-fingered-leaves and even some 3-fingered ones on side shoots, whereas I would have expected her to be putting on bigger ones at this stage. Here is a pic, which does not truly show the paleness I'm talking about: Any ideas?
View attachment 1206875

Walter White - I can see why Mephisto called Ms Walter "funny" - her growth was kind of strange the first few weeks indeed, and I have a runt here (2nd pic) that still has barely come out of it. The first one pictured is going very strong:
View attachment 1206869View attachment 1206870


And this is about where my direct seeded ones are at after 7 days.
View attachment 1206874
I have to say, next year I'll be starting all my auto seedlings in containers, and doing the indoor&outdoor 24/0 combo until transplant. They undoubtedly get a stronger start that way. Plus I had a few seedlings lose one of their first true leaves to insects. Not worth it. My little experiment has yielded a clear answer!


Thanks all for tuning in.

Hey there grow bro...

Just wondering how many hours of full direct sunlight do your plant get in a day?
What is the topping over the soil? Is it Pine needles?

Northern Vermont... Cool up that way. Summers not to long.
Dutch Passion has a nice selection for those northern cool temperatures and short growing season.

Your right to start your seedings inside first.
In your area for Optimum maximum sunlight. I would start my Auto seedlings inside on or near May 5th to the 10th under 20/4 lighting
(preferably a strong 40k or 41k 315 CMH for maximum growth in short time or Cool bright white LED)
and then be in the outside grow garden by no later than the 6st to10th of June.
In a spot with as much direct sun as you can get in a day.
To hit the summer solstice of the 21st of June the longest days of the year are all a head.... Bingo !!!

Just my 2cents bud...

Good luck and happy growing.
:pighug: :pass:
 
Just wondering how many hours of full direct sunlight do your plant get in a day?
What is the topping over the soil? Is it Pine needles?

Hey buddy. Thanks for following! My spot gets about 9 or 10 hours of direct sunlight per day around solstice time...not a huge amount but Im happy with my results. The bed is covered with mulch hay (a few years old so it won’t sprout).

Our final frost date is June 1 and so there are typically nights that get close to 0 degrees early in June. I popped my seeds June 1 in 2L tiered pots and by 10 days later they were ready to go in the ground, most tap roots were already starting to wander around the bottom of the containers. Not sure I’d want to push the sched any earlier cuz of cold temps. I did use a small hoop house on cold nights.
 
Hey buddy. Thanks for following! My spot gets about 9 or 10 hours of direct sunlight per day around solstice time...not a huge amount but Im happy with my results. The bed is covered with mulch hay (a few years old so it won’t sprout).

Our final frost date is June 1 and so there are typically nights that get close to 0 degrees early in June. I popped my seeds June 1 in 2L tiered pots and by 10 days later they were ready to go in the ground, most tap roots were already starting to wander around the bottom of the containers. Not sure I’d want to push the sched any earlier cuz of cold temps. I did use a small hoop house on cold nights.

Ok
Bigger start pots and a earlier run.
To grow bigger and better.
So
If your last frost is around June 1st... then pop date still would be around the 15th of May...
Because they don't start flowering until about six weeks out from pop... most autos.
So you're still early on the flower time. It gives the plant plenty of time to grow big and when it gets outside its a strong plant.
A strong healthy plant will overcome a lot of things even chili nights. As long as you don't get a hard freeze or a super hard Frost. That plant will be fine... I'm sure you listen to the radio and the weatherman to know when a frost is going to come. Or may know your weather on your MT and when to cover.

Early and Big in a big pot.

The bigger pot will allow you to transplant much easier with less much less stress to the plant and root system.

The bigger light pre transplant. Will allow you to have a large ready to go plant for the up and coming longest days of the year
20th of June

That's my 2 cents grow bro

:goodluck: :hump::bong:
 
Day 28
Ok
Bigger start pots and a earlier run.
To grow bigger and better.
So
If your last frost is around June 1st... then pop date still would be around the 15th of May...
Because they don't start flowering until about six weeks out from pop... most autos.
So you're still early on the flower time. It gives the plant plenty of time to grow big and when it gets outside its a strong plant.
A strong healthy plant will overcome a lot of things even chili nights. As long as you don't get a hard freeze or a super hard Frost. That plant will be fine... I'm sure you listen to the radio and the weatherman to know when a frost is going to come. Or may know your weather on your MT and when to cover.

Early and Big in a big pot.

The bigger pot will allow you to transplant much easier with less much less stress to the plant and root system.

The bigger light pre transplant. Will allow you to have a large ready to go plant for the up and coming longest days of the year
20th of June

That's my 2 cents grow bro

:goodluck: :hump::bong:

Thanks @Growtogrow . I do see how an earlier start in bigger pots would set them up for max size. So do you transplant them after they've started flowering then? That doesn't stress them out too much? Maybe I'll try that with a couple next year.

Seeing how fast the roots developed in my containers, I have to imagine that even with something like a 7-10gal container, that taproot would start to get held up by around week 2. What size containers are you talking about using?

Generally, I'm interested in striking a balance of factors. I don't have an indoor grow room, I just have a single 2' x 4' T5 light, so I don't have a lot of space / powerful lights to do a more elaborate start. I am also interested in harnessing the power of the sun and not working too hard. I wouldn't want to lug too many bigger pots inside & outside too many times (I was bringing the starts outside on sunny days).

But I am all for trying new things and so maybe next year I'll try a few with a setup more close to what you're describing.
 
Day 28
Hey all, I cannot figure out where this content fits, whether it's here or in a blog, but...anyway here are some pics from day 28 to keep this thread updated.

Ladies looking pretty good I'd say, if anyone has any tips for helping boost these plants during stretch, I'd love to hear...

I am correct that I should be seeing a big growth spurt in weeks 5 and 6 right? Now would be the time to throw up some netting I suppose.

Without further or due:
H%wQPnHySpSDcdhkjd5GFA.jpg
b8xI2AzkSpmLfakrJFp9Iw.jpg

Alien v Triangle:
QUdEnHZuS0qkwHCXqjv9kQ.jpg

Some very skinny leaves on this one:
yVKe8XHlRpqtpoVLfQZgmg.jpg

4Cx93Jy0RuaxZowqfiEsJg.jpg

SODK:
aSPocEDcRhis8EF0oVT1fQ.jpg

5XSwE970Qtqvahivkwkdgg.jpg

Hubbabubbasmelloscope:
25GuEmg1TVWDVsiruM4P3Q.jpg
YVEmNTk9Q42ADwCGSh15yg.jpg

Walter White:
This next plant is my fave of the bunch. She is so green and lush and vigorous...one of her side shoots even topped itself, if you look on the right hand side you can see it.
m6sdoFGYQYKQj1m3EukXUw.jpg

This last Walter is a bit of a runt but is not showing any signs of flower yet so I'm optimistic it will catch up.
3ewjIsDETIObWs7jOHiG9w.jpg
 
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Thanks @Growtogrow . I do see how an earlier start in bigger pots would set them up for max size. So do you transplant them after they've started flowering then? That doesn't stress them out too much? Maybe I'll try that with a couple next year.

Seeing how fast the roots developed in my containers, I have to imagine that even with something like a 7-10gal container, that taproot would start to get held up by around week 2. What size containers are you talking about using?

Generally, I'm interested in striking a balance of factors. I don't have an indoor grow room, I just have a single 2' x 4' T5 light, so I don't have a lot of space / powerful lights to do a more elaborate start. I am also interested in harnessing the power of the sun and not working too hard. I wouldn't want to lug too many bigger pots inside & outside too many times (I was bringing the starts outside on sunny days).

But I am all for trying new things and so maybe next year I'll try a few with a setup more close to what you're describing.
Right on :thumbsup: so its good to be trying new things. I guarantee it. I'm always trying figure it out..and it's either a better way sometimes it's not... hey you know what you'll never know until you try right?


So on the transplanting during flower... I didn't say that okay..no try not to...most autoflowers don't start throwing flowers until around 6 weeks... but if you start on the 15th of May and Transplant by the 5th of June your past your freeze Zone and you're 3 weeks into the large veg pot and you've got 2 to 3 weeks before they start flowering. So that gives your plant 2 to 3 weeks to establish a new good root Zone. So would being in the larger pot from the start you can now plant a larger amount of soil with the plant into already a larger area of soil giving the plant a large root Zone by the time she starts to flower.
:pighug::coffee:
Winner winner chicken dinner.

When running your 2x 4 T5 light
Inside keep your light is close to the plant is possible without burning it and with a T5 it's pretty hard to burn you can keep playing pretty close 2-3 inch away from the light. Monitor them closely so they don't grow into the light. And grow the biggest plant you can with that little light.
Then When you set them out on or about the 5th of June you are going to see wonders and shitt blunders in your crop next year. Large yields makes for a good winter.:thumbsup::drool::pass:
 
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