Photoperiod McDee's Malawi Madness

I am not good enough to pin point issues. Are you still running the 2g A/B/MKP/ 1.2g Epsom formula?
I can't tell deficiencies/toxicity for shit, nutrient burn is about it lol. No mkp yet that's just 1st 2 weeks of flower. 2g's of A & epsom, down to 1.7g's of B. They're getting to much nitrogen so cut a little. There is a new product out. Its made by Masterblend, and it's 99.9% the same as Jacks part A. The difference is its a part A without any nitrogen. It is great for bloom which is what most will use it for. I like it because it gives you total control over your nitrogen. I think it would be great for Malawi which likes less nitrogen. That way I'm not cutting as much calcium. Jacks is supposed to be coming out with a part A without nitrogen too, but Masterblend is only 1 out now. A 4lbs bag with shipping is like $34 roughly. The 25lbs is best deal, but with shipping its $80-$90 i dont have that to spend. I'm gonna try something new. I was watching a video with Harley Smith I will post it, but it's a long 1 like just over 1hr good stuff tho. He recommended mixing 50/50 R/O & tap water. Said let it sit for a day to evaporate the chlorine, and your good to go. With R/O you get pH swings I know this to be all to true. This will help keep pH more stable which will help with my pro mix pH being more stable. Tap water has some good stuff in it too, just gotta get the bad stuff out 1st. I also saw some do a 80/20 ro/tap. I will most likely do a 75/25 which is just simpler to measure with whole numbers than have decimals to figure out. R/O has no buffer which is why it fluctuates. Adding the tap adds a buffer. I have heard this a lot lately, and after hearing Harley recommend it I will give it a go. I already had 2 gallons filled with a 50/50 blend before i saw the 80/20. I think 75/25 is easier to measure out, and will have enough buffer to help. Plus it will have less chlorine to evaporate so will be ready faster. I will use 50/50 see how it goes, and then try 75/25 to see if there is a difference.

 
Well... thing are going south. I believe it's due to the cold. I know cold isn't good, which will cause intake of nutrients to decrease. This is what I think has happened. I have turned my SP 3000 up to 100%. This has got my temp up to 75°/64° f, but low end is still lower than I want. I also have cut part B because of the nitrogen. So I believe between cutting part B, and lower temps which I read definitely slows the absorption of calcium I have got me calcium deficiency/lockout. It also appears I may have magnesium problem too. I have been up until yesterday using 100% r/o water which doesn't help that either. Here is 2 different leaves from same plant on the left plant. From what I can tell 1 is showing calcium def, and other is showing mag def. I'm not good at telling which is which when it comes to deficiencies so if I'm seeing this wrong someone please correct me.

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I'm thinking this is calcium def
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And this looks like magnesium def
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I use to use calmag because always people said if using R/O you have to, but have not been using it for a while. Thing with calmag is it's kinda bad, unless you have both deficiencies. If you have a calcium def, but not a mag def then giving them calmag will mess up your magnesium levels. I would prefer the 2 were separate normally. I have plenty of calmag tho, so as soon as I get verification that I have these deficiencies I will use it. I'm hope the tap water I used will help, but if its from the cold I'm not sure adding calmag will mater if it's not taking it up.

Stay lifted
 
I don't know on the Ca but I think you are correct on the Mg def. I've bumped the Epsom with Jacks 0.1 or 0.2g over. Which at least that is just Mg and S, easier to control.
 
I don't know on the Ca but I think you are correct on the Mg def. I've bumped the Epsom with Jacks 0.1 or 0.2g over. Which at least that is just Mg and S, easier to control.
I posted in Live stoners, someone responded have to go look at what they have to say. That's the thing I don't get been giving 2g's of epsom so it's in there. I don't think it's uptaking from the cold.
 
Hey McD':pass:.... how cold is it at lights off? The problem with too cold is it jams up nutrient uptake and metabolism, even if there's plenty around... Cold "feet", warmer tops are a bad combo, the busy topside isn't getting what it needs for "supply" below... it takes some hours for the soil/medium to get up to temp.
Do you have anything under the tent for insulation? I use foiled bubble wrap insulation for water heaters as a base/alternately, those 4x2 foil sided styro panels are excellent as well... The bubble wrap could be cut-to-fit inside the tent as well. I know folks may use those seedling heat mats under pots to help as well.
The other hitch is air temp of course, turn over rates and such,... no need for a rapid exchange all the time under such conditions, slow it down if you can so the air in there can warm up...

NMK is a true jungle bitch, this African landrace may not appreciate cool T's much, something else to consider.

If it gets bad, some foliar treatments may help get defc's knocked back some; it's a ball ache in this situation I know, so more judicious applications with a small spray bottle may be called for... Ca-Mg, Si, fulvic is a good mix, half strength; wetting agent a must, as is spraying the undersides of the leaves, more stomata are located there vs. top side, so more gets in...
The advantage here is bypassing the root system, direct injection if you will!
 
I was going to recommend a small heater but it appears to be discontinued! You may be able to find one on Amazon still. I like the Honeywell Heatbud. It's a desktop heater but enough for a small tent. It runs 125W on low and 250W on high setting so it shouldn't trip a breaker or add too much additional amp load to a tent of stuff. It should only be ~$30, I saw a few people gouging $60 and listed it as "collectible."
 
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