Live Stoner Chat Live Stoner Chat - Jul-Sep '22

[Dr Fluff]

My brain totally stoned

I thought you were talking about some composted amendment with sawdust and wood chips not fresh sawdust and wood chips to start a carbon cycle decay that does pull N out of the soil. I have used wood in double dig beds for half a century. It is in the first year of a five year soil plan. I don't know how fast that process can work?

It sounds desperate. You been feeding your girls with a fire hose?






Flushing soil is desperation but when you have charged the paddles up twice

Hey brother @Mañ'O'Green
There seems to be some crossed wires here.
It was in reply, to a question asked from a member, that had a problem with Nitrogen toxicity!
They had read that saw dust could de-nitrify soil and asked if this was the actually true, or if it was dubious info!
I replied, the answer is "yes saw dust can lock up Nitrogen".
Iy is interesting to note that saw dust and wood chips. need to break down for 3ish years before they stop absorbing available Nitrogen!
The advice was to flush with pure water, a process which should take 5-7 days!
My girls are in peak condition.:smoking:

 

[DCLXVI]

Anybody got any suggestions for a tent heater? I usually keep a small oil filled radiator hooked up to an inkbird in the tent, but I'm not gonna have the room for it by the time I need it this run. I was thinking about a short electric baseboard heater since I could put it along the tent wall and under the plants. I do have about 10" of space under the table inside my tent to put something but the small ceramic heaters turn themselves off underneath there

Honeywell Heatbud. Cheap as heck on Amazon and low wattage. Two settings. Can heat my 4x4 decently on the low setting. It is fan forced air instead of radiant so care is needed in placement.

 

[DCLXVI]

125W is the low or "1" setting and 250W is the high or "2" setting. It's mechanical so running it off an Inkbird controller works great. I have two and have had no issues with maintaining heat. Just have to position the hot air to blow into a fan to circulate it and not directly on a plant.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Hey brother @Mañ'O'Green
There seems to be some crossed wires here.
It was in reply, to a question asked from a member, that had a problem with Nitrogen toxicity!
They had read that saw dust could de-nitrify soil and asked if this was the actually true, or if it was dubious info!
I replied, the answer is "yes saw dust can lock up Nitrogen".
Iy is interesting to note that saw dust and wood chips. need to break down for 3ish years before they stop absorbing available Nitrogen!
The advice was to flush with pure water, a process which should take 5-7 days!
My girls are in peak condition.:smoking:

Actually I am trying to say the same as you. Don't use saw dust.

I just didn't think he meant fresh saw dust and wood chips my mind read forest products as a top coat leaching N.

I think most plants will make it to harvest without flushing SOIL in better condition than with flushing. Just stop adding elements to the pot. Just keep it properly hydrated with RO/DI PHed water. When working in the Infirmary most flushing of commecial soils really stunted the plants and early larfy flowers was often the observed result on the other hand LITFA had a higher recovery rate. Mind you I am only talking about nutrient issues and not the countless environmental challenges.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Wow that hour disappeared..........

Good morfnoevight All!

 

[Talonxracer]

@Mañ'O'Green thnx

 

[Talonxracer]

Good morning all!

 

[Dr Fluff]

Actually I am trying to say the same as you. Don't use saw dust.

I just didn't think he meant fresh saw dust and wood chips my mind read forest products as a top coat leaching N.

I think most plants will make it to harvest without flushing SOIL in better condition than with flushing. Just stop adding elements to the pot. Just keep it properly hydrated with RO/DI PHed water. When working in the Infirmary most flushing of commecial soils really stunted the plants and early larfy flowers was often the observed result on the other hand LITFA had a higher recovery rate. Mind you I am only talking about nutrient issues and not the countless environmental challenges.

Mybad, heavily medicated at the time!I hope they sort it out and the plants recover.
If not, then it's learn from your mistakes and start a fresh!

 

[Talonxracer]

I've tried a few of them and they're exactly the ones that turn themselves off underneath the table for some reason. I could put one outside with an intake fan by it but I'm trying to keep stuff inside the tent

Honeywell Heatbud. Cheap as heck on Amazon and low wattage. Two settings. Can heat my 4x4 decently on the low setting. It is fan forced air instead of radiant so care is needed in placement.

I use a small heat buddy from Lazko probably the same as the honeywell. It provided more than enough heat in my 80cm square tent and never ran for more than 45 seconds at a time!

One thing I do is take a piece of 1/2" foil faced foam sheet and cut a piece that tightly fits in the bottom of the tent between the tent poles. It keeps the tent several degrees warmer. I had my first tent down in the basement and the cement floor would suck the heat out of the tent!

 

[Talonxracer]

Our weather is certainly turning, a high of 65*f today and it will drop to 38*f overnight!