Lighting Full spectrum cob build.

18°C on the side of the heatsink and 24°C on the face of the chip and yes i used thermal paste! The heatsinks have copper cores also to help with the heat transfer!
They are actually designed to run 24hrs a day and with an appropriate sized heatsink they can do this no bother.
I think too many people are too apprehensive when it comes to "cheap chinese" parts. Most electronic components are manufactured in china sso whether you spend a lot or a little there realy isnt that much difference in what you buy and aslong as you know what you are doing there should be no problems.
Each heatsink i have has an 80mm fan screwed to the top of it so no need for dust sprayers, they take care of that themselves and i have a clean growing environment so dust buildup is never a problem for me.

First, your plants will give off dust, and unless you have your grow space hermetically sealed with properly filtered intake AND exhaust, and we're talking "Pharmaceutical or Electronic Clean Conditions" here, as in more sterile than an operating theatre, then there will be dust coming in. Be aware as humidity and dust, etc, particles which will dry out in a sticky mess in the dead air spots under your cooling fans. And no matter what you think of your fans, there will be dead air spaces under each fan as that is the nature of an axial fan.

Good you used thermal paste, it was an obvious one to ask, and your temps are good enough. But you would be amazed at how many people don't do certain things and then wonder why there's a sudden BANG so I wanted to make sure you had done things right for cooling as that is one of the biggest mistakes some make.

As far as them being "cheap chinese parts", do remember I'm growing this wee beastie under €38 worth of parts, lots of string, and some bits and pieces you will have lying around so I am not afraid of the "cheap chinese parts" side of things at all, I have more concerns over the design of these "driverless cobs" as I've seen both cheap and expensive gear go with a huge bang before and, in these things, you have to hope they have used the right parts and that everything has gone together properly because you have no control over that driver, whether it's underloaded or "right on the edge", and so on, and is why my preference is to run a separate driver as then you know what you have.

Oh, just because someone says they are designed to run 24/7 doesn't mean they are, irrespective of what the original design heatsink was, especially regarding claims in ads on the Bay of E (why pay for someone else's cut when you can go straight to the source in China and pay less than half as much for the same thing).

So it won't do any harm to monitor temps, an increase will point to getting the sprayduster out as that means cooling is compromised, otherwise I'm looking forward to seeing the fruits of your labour
 

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I'm running 9 110v 50w 3000k 6 in a re-purposed blurple and 3 in a old led light bar. These lights have thermal regulators so the cooler you get them the brighter they are. But I have 3 on a 48" heatsink and they run 120f no fan. 3 fans on other and they are 96f
 
I've got over half my lights off cause it was too much. I'm hoping the hydro will stretch a bit. I feel it's too close together.
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Them strips that are on, what Kelvin are they because they look like they're heading up towards the 6000K and that's gonna keep her squat
 
They are 40w 5000k and all lights are 4ft from plant. But last grow I had all on except middle light was a blurple and everything stretched a bit too much. I just turned them on this morning though. They have been off for a week or more. Hydro was turning towards middle and I want it to grow even.
 
First, your plants will give off dust, and unless you have your grow space hermetically sealed with properly filtered intake AND exhaust, and we're talking "Pharmaceutical or Electronic Clean Conditions" here, as in more sterile than an operating theatre, then there will be dust coming in. Be aware as humidity and dust, etc, particles which will dry out in a sticky mess in the dead air spots under your cooling fans. And no matter what you think of your fans, there will be dead air spaces under each fan as that is the nature of an axial fan.

Good you used thermal paste, it was an obvious one to ask, and your temps are good enough. But you would be amazed at how many people don't do certain things and then wonder why there's a sudden BANG so I wanted to make sure you had done things right for cooling as that is one of the biggest mistakes some make.

As far as them being "cheap chinese parts", do remember I'm growing this wee beastie under €38 worth of parts, lots of string, and some bits and pieces you will have lying around so I am not afraid of the "cheap chinese parts" side of things at all, I have more concerns over the design of these "driverless cobs" as I've seen both cheap and expensive gear go with a huge bang before and, in these things, you have to hope they have used the right parts and that everything has gone together properly because you have no control over that driver, whether it's underloaded or "right on the edge", and so on, and is why my preference is to run a separate driver as then you know what you have.

Oh, just because someone says they are designed to run 24/7 doesn't mean they are, irrespective of what the original design heatsink was, especially regarding claims in ads on the Bay of E (why pay for someone else's cut when you can go straight to the source in China and pay less than half as much for the same thing).

So it won't do any harm to monitor temps, an increase will point to getting the sprayduster out as that means cooling is compromised, otherwise I'm looking forward to seeing the fruits of your labour
Plants give off dust!? I have never heard of or seen this myself, do you have any references that i can take a look at?
With the fan mounted on top of the heatsink it will force air downwards and due to the shape of the fins the air will continually be expelled equally out from either side of the heatsink therefore there would be no "dead spots".
The chips aren't driverless, they have four tiny invertors built into them but i agree even expensive parts can fail, i.e the meanwell inverter i used for my citizen leds!!
With regards to them being designed to run 24/7, you could say the same for any electrical product, if something has the potential to fail then it very well could fail. Being an engineer i have seen components costing thousands of pounds fail after 10 minutes of running and i have seen cheap ass parts lasting over a decade, sometimes its just your luck.
I could order the parts straight from the supplier but im far too impatient for that lol!
If i were you i would ditch the string and replace it with steel wire, cotton is just too flammable for me!
 
Plants give off dust!? I have never heard of or seen this myself, do you have any references that i can take a look at?
With the fan mounted on top of the heatsink it will force air downwards and due to the shape of the fins the air will continually be expelled equally out from either side of the heatsink therefore there would be no "dead spots".
The chips aren't driverless, they have four tiny invertors built into them but i agree even expensive parts can fail, i.e the meanwell inverter i used for my citizen leds!!
With regards to them being designed to run 24/7, you could say the same for any electrical product, if something has the potential to fail then it very well could fail. Being an engineer i have seen components costing thousands of pounds fail after 10 minutes of running and i have seen cheap ass parts lasting over a decade, sometimes its just your luck.
I could order the parts straight from the supplier but im far too impatient for that lol!
If i were you i would ditch the string and replace it with steel wire, cotton is just too flammable for me!

Of course all sorts of residue comes off plants, they're living creatures who do shed cells as well as expel various compounds, and that's before you disturb them when fiddling around pruning, removing dead leaves, etc.

Then we have the dust that comes off the dried surface layer of your soil, stirred around by airflow.

Then you have a certain level of humidity.

Your space is not so "clean" as you believe.

Next we move onto fans. It doesn't matter which way round they are, directly under the hub in the middle is dead air. You don't believe me, then explain why the dust collects in the middle of a desk fan, on the front and back of the grille. It is the nature of an axial fan, one like a propeller, when compared to a centrifugal fan, as in one which looks like a hamster wheel and is what your extract fan will be.

I'm not so impatient, I wait maybe 2 weeks, no big deal.

I used to work for a company who made VERY expensive lighting, and especially LED. I've seen some of these cheap and nasties just explode on power up, same as I've seen the LED failure rate of one supplier versus another. I've also seen branded name stuff claim to be 12v ac/dc which could not run off a mere transformer without flicker and had to be run off a driver. So, yeah, I've had a fair bit of experience in this field, as well as being a sparkytrician for over 3 decades, and thankfully for you you did know what you were doing.

Oh, who uses cotton string? Sisal all the way, much more heat resistant and given I can hold the metal plate/heatsink all day without the slightest feeling of things being too hot I know I'm well under the threshold for that stuff lighting up..
 
Of course all sorts of residue comes off plants, they're living creatures who do shed cells as well as expel various compounds, and that's before you disturb them when fiddling around pruning, removing dead leaves, etc.

Then we have the dust that comes off the dried surface layer of your soil, stirred around by airflow.

Then you have a certain level of humidity.

Your space is not so "clean" as you believe.

Next we move onto fans. It doesn't matter which way round they are, directly under the hub in the middle is dead air. You don't believe me, then explain why the dust collects in the middle of a desk fan, on the front and back of the grille. It is the nature of an axial fan, one like a propeller, when compared to a centrifugal fan, as in one which looks like a hamster wheel and is what your extract fan will be.

I'm not so impatient, I wait maybe 2 weeks, no big deal.

I used to work for a company who made VERY expensive lighting, and especially LED. I've seen some of these cheap and nasties just explode on power up, same as I've seen the LED failure rate of one supplier versus another. I've also seen branded name stuff claim to be 12v ac/dc which could not run off a mere transformer without flicker and had to be run off a driver. So, yeah, I've had a fair bit of experience in this field, as well as being a sparkytrician for over 3 decades, and thankfully for you you did know what you were doing.

Oh, who uses cotton string? Sisal all the way, much more heat resistant and given I can hold the metal plate/heatsink all day without the slightest feeling of things being too hot I know I'm well under the threshold for that stuff lighting up..
Dead cells yes but i dont think you could define the accumulated quantity of this as dust, and with good air circulation and exhaust filtration that shouldnt be a problem. If they did give off a considerable amount of "dust" i would surely see it on the black/white sheeting?
I agree with you on the dry soil though but the particle would be much larger and more visible.
Like you said dust will gather on all parts of a fan, not just the central axis point. But in context of how the air is being used, when the air is forced against a solid object it will disperse in all directions. When the aiflow cannot escape in all directions it will take the easiest route ( just like water and electricity) which is out both sides due to the profile of the heatsink meaning there would be no low pressure zone underneath the fan to gather any "dust".
What do you mean by 12V ac/dc? It has to be one or the other lol!?
Cotton and sisal actually have similar flash points, your light may not get to a high enough temperature to ignite it but i bet an electrical arc could! Also sisal is more hygroscopic than cotton, high humidity can mean it could absorb some of this moisture and become a haven for mould to grow! This would be the case for cotton also though, thats why i stick to good old stainless steel ✌
 
Dead cells yes but i dont think you could define the accumulated quantity of this as dust, and with good air circulation and exhaust filtration that shouldnt be a problem. If they did give off a considerable amount of "dust" i would surely see it on the black/white sheeting?
I agree with you on the dry soil though but the particle would be much larger and more visible.
Like you said dust will gather on all parts of a fan, not just the central axis point. But in context of how the air is being used, when the air is forced against a solid object it will disperse in all directions. When the aiflow cannot escape in all directions it will take the easiest route ( just like water and electricity) which is out both sides due to the profile of the heatsink meaning there would be no low pressure zone underneath the fan to gather any "dust".
What do you mean by 12V ac/dc? It has to be one or the other lol!?
Cotton and sisal actually have similar flash points, your light may not get to a high enough temperature to ignite it but i bet an electrical arc could! Also sisal is more hygroscopic than cotton, high humidity can mean it could absorb some of this moisture and become a haven for mould to grow! This would be the case for cotton also though, thats why i stick to good old stainless steel ✌

When the airflow of an axial fan hits a surface most air will go out sideways, but under the hub the two "waves" of air pressure turn into vortices which will create a "dead" area where the two vortices collide. As crud builds up, that area grows. So that's where the crap starts building up. Pulling outwards has a similar effect as the main airflow is around the hub, creating an area where crap will build up. But you have temps under control so only monitoring is necessary and it's always good practice to clean things out between grows anyway to keep crud down. A few minutes of "routine maintenance" never does harm.

Enough dust build up is not necessarily visible particles until they clump together, and I've explained where this happens with an axial fan. You may hardly even feel it on the walls of your tent, or just assume that it's condensation or something due to temperature differences between the inner and outer walls. But you have disturbed particles when you touch the wall, and as that gets sucked over to your exhaust some will also be drawn into your fans. And not all particles actually go into your filter, some will land on the ducting due to vortices and then fall off, adding more microscopic crud straight into fans. And, as said, nobody runs a "Condition Clean" room with intake filters that can stop Sarin or nuclear fallout, although a survivalist bunker would be one hell of a grow room, so that's more crud.

I say all of this because I've had the "joys" of sorting out the damage caused by build up, and you wouldn't believe how much there will be in a year and is, as I've said elsewhere, quite a plausible reason a lot of these "cheap" chinese grow lights go "pop" after a year or two, it's because cooling has been compromised as nobody thinks about cleaning them out.

Anyways, led lights. No, you do get 12v AC/DC as they are replacement spots for AR50 MR16 fitting, as in these 12v downlighters in the bathroom ceiling, to be used instead of halogen lamps. The notion is that the cob does not need the transformer part of a driver, but only has to rectify, stabilise, etc, the "traditional" 12vac going to the halogen so, well, any fool can change a lightbulb, even me, meaning that you don't have to replace the existing transformers with drivers. You also get them in BA15 AR70 form, amongst others. Needless to say, after testing several different brands with several different types of transformer only, the decision was made to use proper drivers as there was not one combination found which did not flicker to some extent due to the on board circuitry not doing it's job properly.

As far as the string goes, a bigger worry is the plate edges digging in and cutting, hence the use of double sided tape around the edges to lessen that risk. But sisal also as lower flammability problems, it will self extinguish when charred. And it gets changed with every grow as SOMETHING changes as I shuffle things around, so fungus is not an issue, not at my humidity levels.
 
Alright guys!
I made myself a 200w full spectrum cob light fixture and basically im just wanting to show it off lol!

Its basically 4 50w full spectrum chips, aluminium heatsinks with fans on top, a 12v transformer i took out of a charger plug, aluminium angle, coach screws and some electrical wire.
It still looks a little ghetto just now but i left everything 'open' so if anything fails it would be easier to find. Its been running for a fortnight now and its running fine!
Theres a GDP mother plant under it as we speak and the growth has been just as good as the 600w hps that is normally used.
The next plan is to build a 9 light fixture to fit a 1.2m² tent.
Let me know what you guys think and feel free to ask any questions.
Peace ✌View attachment 956046 View attachment 956047 View attachment 956048 View attachment 956049 View attachment 956050 View attachment 956051 View attachment 956046 View attachment 956047 View attachment 956048 View attachment 956049 View attachment 956050 View attachment 956051 View attachment 956046 View attachment 956047 View attachment 956048 View attachment 956049 View attachment 956050 View attachment 956051
@Free Flow
 
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