DIY DIY Upgrade to the Roleadro 400w COB

I didnt unfortunately :/ but it was really straight forward! The original chip is mounted on a plate thats screwed to the heatsink. Just using the citizen chip gives ya about 2mm between the original reflectors and new chips. Ill pull the case off when I get home and post a pic!

Awesome, much appreciated. I've been trying to source parts to do it myself but damn, finding COB parts in Canada isn't cheap. At least not from Canadian distributors, It's looking like $40CAD per COB, comparing to the $10US that I'm seeing elsewhere. But then you'd have to add in import/shipping costs, and potentially long ship times.
 
Awesome, much appreciated. I've been trying to source parts to do it myself but damn, finding COB parts in Canada isn't cheap. At least not from Canadian distributors, It's looking like $40CAD per COB, comparing to the $10US that I'm seeing elsewhere. But then you'd have to add in import/shipping costs, and potentially long ship times.
Damn thats steep! I got mine on ebay off an estonian seller, 5 chips for 60 euro. Dunno how the import charges would work out for ya tho. Handy thing with the upgrade, it leaves ya with 2 spare drivers to play with!
 
Got those pics for ya

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Sorry they're all sideways, shit phone
 
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Awesome, no worries man, thanks for the pictures. Great job!

I keep on going back and forth though on whether it is worth it or not for me to bust it open and try, or buy a couple autocobs (or an optic 2). Gotta keep researching for now so I understand what i'm getting into, though I found some CREE CXB3590's for ~$40/each

In reality...I should probably focus my energy on perfecting other things like watering, nutrient levels, etc. because that is likely more limiting to my growth potential than the light.
 
A
It was suggested I create a simple tutorial on how I modified my Roleadro Cob Lights.
I have done both or two of them, both upgraded to Citizen cobs (details below) resulting in more lumens, less wattage and a better overall lamp for growing in veg and flower alike.

My first upgrade was somewhat intimidating as I opted to self-solder my connections, something that was outside my experience and comfort level. But that upgrade went smoothly so I quickly grabbed up the parts to modify my second lamp. This tutorial will chronicle my second lamp upgrade where I opted for cob connectors (BJB) and Ledil reflectors vs my direct solder connections and use of the manufacturers shroud and reflectors.

Both lights continue to work flawlessly and the bonus is, I have 4 extra LED drivers that I removed and could use to build some type of other light. I look forward to that and a qb purchase.

The original fixture drew approx 195w from the wall, the upgraded light draws approx 92w with greater coverage and intensity (plus reduced blurple color).

So here goes:

The original, store bought light
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Parameter
Chip size: 45mil
Input voltage: AC85-265v
Working current: 600ma
Working frequency: 50-60Hz
Lifespan: 50,000hrs
Actual wattage: 200w±5%
Warranty: 2 years warranty

Upgrade Parts list/cost [I saved some money by going with Gen5 vs Gen6 cobs]


Citizen CLU048-1212 90CRI GEN5 - 4000K 1 × 2
$18.00
BJB holder for Citizen CLU048 series and Luminus CXM22 × 2 $5.00
LEDiL Angelina reflector for BJB Holder (Citizen CLU048) × 2 $11.00
Arctic thermal pads for Citizen CLU048 series × 4 $4.00
Subtotal: $38.00
Shipping: $6.76 via USPS Priority Flat Rate w/insurance
Payment method: PayPal
Total: $44.76
Tools Required for Upgrade
Wire cutters
M3x5mm machine screws (flat head phillips or preference)
M3xM5 Drill and Tap
Solder Iron (tinning wire tips)
Rosin core solder
Phillips screw driver
Rubber gloves (for handling cob chips)

We Start:
The original light has 5 drivers. One powers the fans and two drivers for each cob/heatsink. This picture is of the first lamp I upgraded and is only to show the lamp prior to disassembly and to show that some lamps come with soldered connections, some with clip connections (this upgrade). It’s not really relevant as you’re going to snip those wires off regardless.


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The two drivers on each side are not wired together (parallel) and each connected to the original cob chips. We will be removing two of the four drivers located on the outer aspects of the lamp and they disconnect with handy clips from the manufacturer. Here you see two drivers gone. All of the driver connections to the cob chips are Red and Black wires. The unstripped ends in this photo were just snipped off the original chip.


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Once the two excess drivers are removed and the remaining driver connections snipped from the chips, it’s time to remove the original cob chips. These are fastened with four screws and thermal grease and a fair amount of force is required to start the brass colored plate up/off the heatsink. Gentle but steady force will get the plate moving then it’s easy going. The chips removed, both heatsinks were cleaned with 91% iso to remove the thermal grease.


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Looks pretty good, eh? I thought so, now the most challenging aspect, drilling and tapping holes for the bjb cob connectors. Only two holes each so not too bad huh? But I managed to beak off my tap in two different holes (one on each heatsink) then had to go to the store to buy another tap. All in all, the holes do not have to be that deep, maybe 1/4" or thereabouts and in the end, this was fun and not that difficult. I advise using some lube, a slow progression with the tap and to watch some YT videos first. Being the most taxing process and frustrating having to file off the broken tap ends, I realize now I toook zero pictures of the drilling and tapping process. Apologies. The only other tip I have is to mind your metal shavings etc as your working above the fans and that sh*t goes everywhere!!

Here are all the parts laid out prior to installation.


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Here is how you fasten the chips to the bjb connectors

BJB Connector Series for Bridgelux COB V-Arrays
About an hour later, here are the bjb connectors installed each with a thermal pad applied and fastened to the heatsinks.


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The next step is trimming wires and tinning them for conductivity and in our case, easier insertion into the bjb connectors. Each wire needs to be stripped to 6-7mm of bare wire. There should be no bare wire showing after inserted into the bjb connectors.


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The wires in this lamp were “strand” type and even with the tinning, they insert into fairly stiff connections. It took a bit of consultation and finesse and patience to get them all inserted properly. Needle nose pliers were necessary to grip the wires close enough to the bjb’s to prevent the wire from bending when pushing into the connector.
This video should prompt to 3:16 where it demos the wire insertion.

BJB Connector Series for Bridgelux COB V-Arrays
These are really cool connectors, I must say!!


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The Ledil reflectors connect right to the bjb cob connectors


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All that’s left is a test drive!!!


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Thanks for reading along:

Roleadro 400w COB Upgrade

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Awesome tutorial thinking about doing this upgrade to my COB.
 
Well...I've completed my upgrade.
I ended up ordering a batch of Citizen CLU048 1212 3500K cobs from Estonia to do this. Much cheaper in the end and by lucky chance I was sent extras for another project.

For the most part everything went quite smoothly, other than my incompetence in soldering. It works, it just wasn't easy or pretty. I won't post a bunch of additional pictures of steps shown from the previous posters, but I did go ahead an change out the fans as well to some quieter arctic PC fans.

So to start I disassebled, removed 2 of the drivers, cleaned the inside of the case, and cleaned off the thermal paste off the heatsinks. I used rubbing alcohol but it didn't get it all off, I ended up just flipping them over as the other side was nice and clean.
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Here I was removing the stock fans.
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I replaced them with Arctic F8 - 80mm PC fans, they require 0.16A compared to the stock 0.1A, so they fit the 1A fan driver no problem. These run at 2000RPM and are significantly quieter then the stock ones and I don't know what those running at in terms of RPM. These new fans had 3 wires on a plug so I had to do some testing to see which of the 3 black wires i needed to connect to the driver, and which of the 3 I needed to tape off. Then I cut them off and used a couple of Wago connectors to hook them all up.
Also, I had to drill out (1/4" bit) the bottom corner holes of the fans so they would fit over top of the posts that hold them in place. Once things were connected I reassebled everything to prep for the COBs.
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I used the thermal paste + Kapton Tape idea from @hashead as I wanted to use the same reflectors and had no holders. Soldering was a pain as I have a cheap iron and am not that great at it. I have a problem tinning the wire/pad as the solder always stays on the iron, but it worked in the end. I taped all corners to prevent any connections from being exposed.
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Tested it all and were good to go! I'll have to check the total wattage at some point but now I have a much fuller spectrum, and more efficient light.
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I am keeping the 2 drivers and 2 spare COBs as replacements in case anything fails in the future. That also leaves me with 6x more COBs to play around with. I have ordered all the components from alibaba to build 6 single cob hanging lights so we'll see how that next project goes!
 
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