New Grower One Pound + autoflower Club

Great reply, thank you! :pass:

"dr"green, I will wade on in here to say that one solution does not fit every growers situation.
Where I live heat is always an issue.
Flumming with even a small waterpump can put a borderline temp rez over.
I run a nice pond sized air pump that is mounted in the fridge.
It pumps a nice chilly air through my potentially bacteria laden airstones, which in turn helps me to keep my temps in line in separate rez's without the need for a costly chiller for each rez or trying to cool them all somehow with some other common source.
The idea that airstones put O2 into the water with their bubbles, is based on a fundamentally flawed understanding of what action the bubbles provide in your solution. They do exactly what flumming does, they raise the lower water, to the surface where it absorbs O2 and then follows the current down as new water is forced to the surface with the rise of the bubbles.
Now , it is true that bubbles that are small enough to dissipate, before reaching the surface will force O2 into the solution, but those stones tend to be 10-30 times the cost of decent "pond" airstones.
My one air pump can drive 10-15 separate 20l -40l rez's.
Separate waterpumps can certainly be more costly to purchase and maintain.
In hard water solutions airstones will clog eventually but can generally be scrubbed back to usefulness with relative ease or replaced quite cheaply. Waterpumps will suffer from the same accumulation of minerals and become clogged, but they are much more difficult to clean and more expensive to replace.
Now if I lived in a cooler climate that require me to heat it, waterpumps and flumming might be a part of my hydro regime.
And I might add, I have a great deal of hands on experience with everything from nearly passive waterfall systems to heavily refrigerated and recirculated systems in the tropical fish industry.
 
The 1 lb club is a small club thats for sure lol. I salute anyone who can yield that much off an auto. 10oz highest ive gotten, I couldnt imagine growing one bigger lol.
 
Well, I'm 21 days to chop on my Blue Dragon. When she's gone, I'll remove the SCROG net and put the new container system in the growroom. Friday I'll plant 3 Yoda's Dragons Breath, I'll pick the best of the three and transplant it into the 15 gallon tote, so we're getting closer to starting my adventure!
 
Pop, here's a little to cheer you on.......a first time grower.......from the latest Nebula Haze newsletter received yesterday

Trophy Pictures of the Week!
"This was my first grow, and I will start off saying I never could have pulled this off without growweedeasy.com and the invaluable information I learned from Miss Haze. Thank you!
This sole surviving [ Heavy Weight ] Massive Midget (AUTO FLOWER) ended up yielding OVER A POUND of dry bud! (about 19 ozs.)
Four of five seeds germinated, and three were removed because they were showing male traits. I can't comment on the genetics as this was my first grow, and I made PLENTY of mistakes - too numerous to mention LOL. LST was used.
Because of it's large size and being on the end, I moved it to the center of my grow area, but by cutting my scrog net, the plant almost immediately went crazy into a bush. I then decided to give it ALL 720 (output) watts of my LED's to try and increase yield. I had to angle the side lights because I now had lots of side colas. I even added a few cfls to hit lower buds. Apparently all this worked, but at a high GPW.
I can't comment on the quality yet, as it is curing, but it has a nice mild citric fruity smell. Also would be a good candidate for stealth, as it has fairly low odor.
My hydro system is:
  • Three -3 1/2gal pots in a 15 gal. recirculating system (water chilled 62-64 deg. F.)
  • Three- Ares 51 W-100's (5 watt Cree XTE Warm White 3750k)
  • Three- China broad spectrum UFOs ( 140 output watts each)
Although the performance of both lights are good, I prefer the A-51's as they run cooler, quieter, and are much easier to manipulate.
I will also add that LED's are NOT cool when using multiple lights resulting in high output wattage ( 600 "output" watts of LED,s will give off the same amt. of heat as a 600 watt MH bulb). I continually battled high heat almost the entire grow.
I used GH trio fertilizer along with liquid Karma and hydro guard. Not sure if hydro guard would have been necessary since my water was chilled.
I used grow stones for medium (liked, and will use again).
Comments:
  1. No one has an ( Auto flower) feeding schedule for circulating hydro systems? I was continually needing to remove excess nutes from the system, resulting in a lot of waste.
  2. LED lighting hotter than expected.
  3. Will not let rapid rooters stay as wet next grow, as I think I water logged the seeds. I will also start the (autos) in the final pots as they shock too easy when transplanting.
  4. As you stated in a previous article, Autos are more stressful to grow. But, for me it is worth it, as I ended up doing an open grow due to my high temp. issues. And, I didn't have to ever change my 18/6 timer, or worry about light leakage etc."

-Aticgrow



 
Hey! Thanks! And yes I saw this actually. Grow Weed Easy is a great site, one of my favorites! And that’s the first Massive Midget that I've seen that was truly Massive! Wooooooooooo! 19 freaking ounces! :drool:




Pop, here's a little to cheer you on.......a first time grower.......from the latest Nebula Haze newsletter received yesterday

Trophy Pictures of the Week!
"This was my first grow, and I will start off saying I never could have pulled this off without growweedeasy.com and the invaluable information I learned from Miss Haze. Thank you!
This sole surviving [ Heavy Weight ] Massive Midget (AUTO FLOWER) ended up yielding OVER A POUND of dry bud! (about 19 ozs.)
Four of five seeds germinated, and three were removed because they were showing male traits. I can't comment on the genetics as this was my first grow, and I made PLENTY of mistakes - too numerous to mention LOL. LST was used.
Because of it's large size and being on the end, I moved it to the center of my grow area, but by cutting my scrog net, the plant almost immediately went crazy into a bush. I then decided to give it ALL 720 (output) watts of my LED's to try and increase yield. I had to angle the side lights because I now had lots of side colas. I even added a few cfls to hit lower buds. Apparently all this worked, but at a high GPW.
I can't comment on the quality yet, as it is curing, but it has a nice mild citric fruity smell. Also would be a good candidate for stealth, as it has fairly low odor.
My hydro system is:
  • Three -3 1/2gal pots in a 15 gal. recirculating system (water chilled 62-64 deg. F.)
  • Three- Ares 51 W-100's (5 watt Cree XTE Warm White 3750k)
  • Three- China broad spectrum UFOs ( 140 output watts each)
Although the performance of both lights are good, I prefer the A-51's as they run cooler, quieter, and are much easier to manipulate.
I will also add that LED's are NOT cool when using multiple lights resulting in high output wattage ( 600 "output" watts of LED,s will give off the same amt. of heat as a 600 watt MH bulb). I continually battled high heat almost the entire grow.
I used GH trio fertilizer along with liquid Karma and hydro guard. Not sure if hydro guard would have been necessary since my water was chilled.
I used grow stones for medium (liked, and will use again).
Comments:
  1. No one has an ( Auto flower) feeding schedule for circulating hydro systems? I was continually needing to remove excess nutes from the system, resulting in a lot of waste.
  2. LED lighting hotter than expected.
  3. Will not let rapid rooters stay as wet next grow, as I think I water logged the seeds. I will also start the (autos) in the final pots as they shock too easy when transplanting.
  4. As you stated in a previous article, Autos are more stressful to grow. But, for me it is worth it, as I ended up doing an open grow due to my high temp. issues. And, I didn't have to ever change my 18/6 timer, or worry about light leakage etc."

-Aticgrow



 
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