I to have both bottom flaps open on my tent, and I'm sure there's a bit of residual light getting into the tent. But if complete darkness is so important, do all outside plants go hermie during the week of the full moon?
It's this i bought a long time ago id have to look and see the brand but it has LG uva and cree far red diodes....runs on a m3an well driver... View attachment 1619595
My earlier reply about cutting and soldering may be bs. I assume that the black brick is an LED power supply, and that it must control current to the leds. One solution may be to insert timers into the two led leads between the brick and the light. I think most timers don't much care whether the juice going through them is ac or dc, so the switch function should work fine. Doing the job this way would involve some wiring.
If you are talking to MH, they may be able to advise whether this would work if you want to try it. OTOH, a separate supply would be a lot less work.
I'm not so sure about her .... I may get flogged for saying so.. But she started showing these signs of infection mid flower. That's partly why I wanted her isolated. I upped her Silica and trimmed off the affected branches and leaves. I also doused her with Copper Spray. It seemed to remedy the situation.
Hmmm. Now I'm wondering why he's not having a drop for a while.... Although I've got 4 of the same release/testers going and it's only just that 1 plant
Unless I find a solution, I'll just have to run the UV on a timer for the 2 hrs, and not sure how I am going to handle the IR part. I mean, whats the difference between the IR lights and the red lights on our LEDS?
My understanding of the Mars IR/UV bar was that it was either all on or pick between IR or UV. Not one then the other. You would have to have 2 of them to run IR and UV separately. Definitely not the best design. I was interested until I realized that. If you could run them on two separate timers it would be perfect. A plug at each end for each spectrum.
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