Lighting Bigsm0 and the cob addiction

You really should try running Mega only, you really don't need all that other stuff, and could be the reason for the tip curl. Megacrop was designed to be an all in one nutrient package, hell, it includes things NONE of the other makers do, in fact, they charge you extra for them! don't think it will wokr? it did for me!

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The reason for the additions was to lower the megacrop. I read by a few that the Nitrogen was to high especially after adding calmag. It’s on one plant so I’m sure if I lower it more I’ll be ok. I am with you on the mega alone. Most people tend to over complicate things even against the professionals opinions.
 
Thanks for the follow through, much appreciated. I'm not sure I would call my color spec issue as much of a "problem", as I would lack of knowledge. Over the past couple of years I've been slowly transitioning from photoperiod to autoflower plants, and from HID to LED lighting. After more than a dozen grows a pattern emerged ... ALL of my auto grows stretched beautifully under HID, but none of the grows I did under LED would stretch. I had complete start-to-finish LED grows where the plant never exceeded 10" in final finished height. The plants have been very healthy and bud density has been excellent, perhaps even better than HID grows. But sometimes the lack of stretch has hurt yields, and the dense / compact growth has adversely affected bag appeal. I outlined this in my intro when I joined AFN, link at the bottom of this post.
So during this learning curve, I began to speculate that light intensity was preventing stretch. My HID grows were single-plant in a 2X2 tent under 250W HID, while my LED grows were 325W (at wall). So increased power, coupled with improved efficiency of LED, pointed me to the idea of light intensity as the cause. So I did another thread on Light Intensity, link also at bottom of my posts, with the intention of gathering other growers' experience with stretch under LED. I wanted to chase light intensity from actual power of the LED, as well as distance from the plant canopy. Idea being, light strength drops by the square of the distance (or something like that which I really don't know enough to explain) which is a simpler and more affordable way of varying light intensity than buying COB's of every strength available. As input slowly and somewhat unreliably trickled in from other growers, I became convinced that it was not light intensity that was preventing stretch, but more likely color spectrum.
Fast forward to the past few weeks, and xxxxx has experienced a great deal of stretch with his grows under your COB's.
If memory serves, he is running your 3000K or 3500K COB's. A

nd a few other growers have reported healthy stretch under their full spectrum lights.
Still, my only point of reference is from my "olden" days of HID grows, where everyone rated their systems in degrees Kelvin, with daylight 5500 - 6000K metal halide bulbs for effective veg cycles, and 2900K high pressure sodium bulbs for effective bloom cycles. Both ratings encouraged healthy stretch in my plants. But with the advent of LED, everyone went to nanometers in rating their color spectrums. Yours is the first LED I have encountered that included degrees Kelvin ratings for your products. Kudos to you for that. So now I'm rambling somewhat because I don't understand everything I know about lighting. I've invested a fair amount of money in a couple of LED lighting systems that aren't giving me the full results I'd hoped for. So I'm looking for next steps that seem to point to different lighting, and your COB's seem to fill the ticket for what I do next.

So (a) what spectrums / degrees Kelvin lighting do you recommend that would closely simulate the stretch results I am used to under HID?
And (b) how many COB's of what strength would you recommend for a 5 sq. ft. (2'3" X 2'3") tent, to simulate the positive results I saw from my LED system lights? I have no issues with heat today using the 325W actual LED system lights. And I don't want to sacrifice bud density by under-powering my grow canopy. But I do want to take the next step in improving my grow methods. Your thoughts & input welcomed.


I think a big part of it is that autos are not the same as photos. Something I often talk about is the daily light integral. With your photos in flower you keep your lights at 12 hours, with autos you can double this, up to 24 hours and there for you end up giving your plants twice the amount of light each day. Also taking into consideration how autos are much more sensitive to light than photos too. When I ran photos in the past it was “the more the merrier” with autos everything’s about light stress and lower wattages. As far as bud quality and density goes I’m running on average one cob per plant and the buds are insanely big, dense and resinous. Even with some heavy low stress training and scrogging I find the plants are plenty tall enough. If they start out shorter I usually decrease the hours of light down to 18 which helps. The full room picture was near the end of flower and I only had 11watts of light per square foot. Most people think it’s impossible but I don’t benefit by selling less lights lol.

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As far as spectrum goes the 3500k cob is the best mix of veg and flower spectrums. The higher the number the more blue the light has, 4000k and 6500k which are more for veg. The lower the number the more red, 3000k which is more for flower. The middle is 3500k.
 
I've used Seagrow which is a 16-16-16 blend nutrient, MUCH higher N than megacrop, from start to finish several times with no ill results. My anecdotal evidence is not science , but it shows there is wrong thinking on this subject of N. Its only when over fed N or any other toxicity becomes a problem, and people seem to think they can force fed plants by using ridiculous amounts of nutrients. And of course, people do it because nutrient companies want you to buy more product and thus tell you that's the way to do it!

The plant in my picture never received a solution of more than 700 ppms. I've had three start to finish grows now using Megacrop, and they were the first 3 in a row trouble free grows. I can't say that for any other nutrient I've ever tried.


The reason for the additions was to lower the megacrop. I read by a few that the Nitrogen was to high especially after adding calmag. It’s on one plant so I’m sure if I lower it more I’ll be ok. I am with you on the mega alone. Most people tend to over complicate things even against the professionals opinions.
 
I think a big part of it is that autos are not the same as photos. Something I often talk about is the daily light integral. With your photos in flower you keep your lights at 12 hours, with autos you can double this, up to 24 hours and there for you end up giving your plants twice the amount of light each day. Also taking into consideration how autos are much more sensitive to light than photos too. When I ran photos in the past it was “the more the merrier” with autos everything’s about light stress and lower wattages. As far as bud quality and density goes I’m running on average one cob per plant and the buds are insanely big, dense and resinous. Even with some heavy low stress training and scrogging I find the plants are plenty tall enough. If they start out shorter I usually decrease the hours of light down to 18 which helps. The full room picture was near the end of flower and I only had 11watts of light per square foot. Most people think it’s impossible but I don’t benefit by selling less lights lol.

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As far as spectrum goes the 3500k cob is the best mix of veg and flower spectrums. The higher the number the more blue the light has, 4000k and 6500k which are more for veg. The lower the number the more red, 3000k which is more for flower. The middle is 3500k.

Wow, I've currently got a single plant under 250w of cobs so my w per sq ft is well over double yours... Maybe I can dial them down a bit if you're getting these results with only 11w a sq ft. Food for thought.
 
Wow, I've currently got a single plant under 250w of cobs so my w per sq ft is well over double yours... Maybe I can dial them down a bit if you're getting these results with only 11w a sq ft. Food for thought.
I would definitely give it a try. As pop mentioned above with nutrient companies telling folks to pour it in, they make more by selling more. On the other hand I regularly tell people the opposite. It’s not needed. Then this part that makes people think twice about the above. !with autos! It’s not that autos are generally smaller it’s that autos are different than photos. Big or small, they are different plants. To reword it. You can achieve maximum sized autos with lower amounts of light than you may think.

Really the part that gets me is most auto growers follow skilled photo growers trying to copy them but do so with autos. If someone is growing amazing tomatoes and you want amazing tomatoes then why the heck would you plant cucumbers? If you want 2lb plants then grow photos but don’t mimic the guy with an autos thinking you’ll have anywhere near the same results. Photo period plant size has a lot to do with veg times as most may know.

I am still convinced to achieve the maximum from my space autos take the cake. Sure smaller plants but more of them and more frequent.

My bitch for the day. :rofl:
 
Nice seed collection. Non of those were available the last time I purchased from Mephisto. Good times coming to you.


I am very happy to say that this lucky light builder just entered a good relationship with a great seed company. By next grow which is starting soon there will be quite a few seeds hitting cobshop that I never expected to get my hands on. Should be dropping seeds for the perpetual setup in the next few weeks.
 
I think it makes sense for u to be a tester since so many people are running mephisto and cobs. Now I can go to a thread get multiple questions answered.
 
I have three plants in a tent, in hanging baskets. One sits on the floor of the tentthey all started in another tent and were the same size. Of course, the plant on the floor, stretched some. BUT it also got much taller and LARGER than the others, twice the size! and so are the buds! I'm betting more than double the bud output at harvest, which looks to be about 3 more weeks. This is so contrary to the you need more light advice we are given! Now with added CO2 you definitely much more light to use it effectively. But why are we seeing the opposite when using quality lighting?

I was going to add a couple more boards to my QB light, now, I'm waiting to see how the next grow goes. And I've got the QBs running at 60 watts each.

A better harvest with LESS light???? I see it but find no explanations!



I would definitely give it a try. As pop mentioned above with nutrient companies telling folks to pour it in, they make more by selling more. On the other hand I regularly tell people the opposite. It’s not needed. Then this part that makes people think twice about the above. !with autos! It’s not that autos are generally smaller it’s that autos are different than photos. Big or small, they are different plants. To reword it. You can achieve maximum sized autos with lower amounts of light than you may think.

Really the part that gets me is most auto growers follow skilled photo growers trying to copy them but do so with autos. If someone is growing amazing tomatoes and you want amazing tomatoes then why the heck would you plant cucumbers? If you want 2lb plants then grow photos but don’t mimic the guy with an autos thinking you’ll have anywhere near the same results. Photo period plant size has a lot to do with veg times as most may know.

I am still convinced to achieve the maximum from my space autos take the cake. Sure smaller plants but more of them and more frequent.

My bitch for the day. :rofl:
 
here's a little jungle under 2 Autocobs. The ducks are mostly going outdoors soon. the Mataro Blue. I don't know what to do with it lol!


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