Lighting Amare Solar Eclipse 450UVB and Solar Eclipse 250 3x3 PAR readings.

[Ripper]

Hmm sounds to me like 28 to 30 inches with lenses is the money spot...

 

[Ripper]

Are there any studies that tell us what light output is best so we can match up your numbers with those numbers?

 

[BII]

I'd be interested in some PAR data more relevant to using a larger tent, where multiple light fixtures are being used, with partial overlaps in light coverage and light coming from multiple fixtures. For example, would measurements be much different if you had 2 of the 450s in a tent twice the size, 3 x 6 ft.? I'd also be interested in mixing AutoCOBs with Amare 150CR's (with this what I have).

And probably like many or most, I still would like some good information about optimal PAR levels, what is best for autos (and when running 24 x 7), including at different plant stages.

 

[A-Train]

@Ripper

 

[BII]

A graphic showing relationship of PPFD (PAR) vs. percentage of photosynthesis, with it important to note the limited returns with more light at higher intensities. But what levels of photosynthesis (or how much PAR/intensity) are optimal/best with autos at different stages as they are grown indoors?

For example during the main bloom period, would it be best to blast light 20-24 hours/day at 600, 800, 1000 or 1200 PPFD, presuming no light-induced plant stress?

 

[Waira]

daaaaaamn!! With those lenses things get downright fierce in there- .. those lights are amazing,.... A-train, what PPFD readings are you running at during veg and bloom?

 

[A-Train]

@Waira seedlings run around 400 and develope nice. When the get into stretch i like 6 to 700. That keeps the stretch low.

You recall the colorado cookie that stretched.. that plant was moved to the flower tent early when she was too short and only getting around 400 to the canopy during stretch so she went UP.....

During flower the tops of most plants are hitting the 900 to 1000 range

 

[A-Train]

@AMARE-TECH-Vic can you see this page?.... if so go to page 1 and see if you see all the par readings.

 

[AMARE-TECH-Vic]

Yes. Thank you sir. Great review.

 

[AMARE-TECH-Vic]

The above ppfd table shows ~600umol would be efficient in achieving full photsynthesis, but it's still only up to 75%. It also doesn't account for the dramatic drop in intensity as distance to canopy increases, due to the inverse square law that basically that states intensity drop approximately by half at double the distance. Lenses can lessen this effect to a degree, depending on it's design efficiency. We recommend and design our fixtures to deliver a minimum of ~1000-1200umol@canopy to compensate for the drop in intensity to ensure a minimum of 24" intra-canopy penetration for optimum growth and yield. Cannabis has a light saturation point of ~1500umol/m2/sec/ with Equatorial sativas up to ~1750umol/me/sec.. Plants, especial light intensive species like cannabis can easily endure up to ~2000umol/m2/sec if it's properly hydrated with sufficient nutes and correct spectrum since this is what the sun emits at peak noon hours with clear skies. Red/blue(blurple) based spectrum tend to cause bleaching and other issues at high-intensity (~1200umol+)due to it's lop-sided spectrum with either excessive blue or reds. In most cases ~high 300's(umol) - low 400's is sufficient for full growth and density as long as the spectrum properly tuned to deliver the required wavelengths and sufficient DLI for optimum results. Another note is the more distance to canopy from the light, the better intra-canopy penetration. This is due to the upper canopy(leaves) will have less of shadowing effect on the lower canopy as distance increases. Commercial and demanding growers usually want to achieve maximum results and more than 75% efficiency.