Mephisto Genetics White Crack and Kis Organics Soil
- Thread starter slowandeasy
- Start date
slowandeasy
Cultivators Club
Ok everyone, got 1 of my 2x4 set up and put my ckones and seedlings in it. It is already at 68% humidityband 80F. Will monitor and add another fan if needed. Also, just mixed up my first dose of Coconut Water. 1/2 tsp per gal. Supposed to help with flowering. Many benefits, including a healthy dose of potasssium. Worth a shot. Cheaper on Amazon than BAS.
I have a question for ya all. Based on personal experience, does anyone think that Sativa dom autos or some Sativa dom autos, do much better or prefer higher temps than the 50/50 or indica dom autos? Specifically during seedling and veg. Like say 82-85’F.
just curious what you guys notice
cheers
os
just curious what you guys notice
cheers
os
slowandeasy
Cultivators Club
I am not sure, but would be intresting to compare. I put my newest seedlings in my 2x4 and it is running 83 deg. Now it is a little brighter than where they were before, so 2 of them are a little droopy todaybfrom more light I assume. But the rest look better than before. Standing nice and tall. I have to transplant the largest 1, she is ready. Have another right behind her and the rest need a few more days. I think I will transplant the one tomorrow. Then I will also start to reammend mybother ones thst finished up. Will use an extra Junior to unload the old one into and mix in the craft blend in layers. Will let sit a few days before planting. I will keep transferring the used soil to different Juniors to prep. Should work well. I have 3 unused Juniors, and 3 used. Have 6 seedlings, so its perfect! I am gonna leave the bottom layer on the old ones and reammend it and fill back up in layers...reammending in layers. 1 cup Craft Blend per Junior with EWC. Shit, I might as well start doing some work now. Peacex slow
I have been rapping with a few of the boys about how I top dress and feed the soil for the longer term, especially when using worms in your containers.
I like to throw down a layer of dried and crumbled leaves, then I cover with vermicompost. Leaves are optional, it’s just what I do cause I have em. (Trim, holy basil, citronella- stuff from my house plants that I know isn’t buggy).
I applied this layer of vermicompost yesterday and have watered it in 4x since. Quite a bit of the worm casting fines have already washed down into the soil.
About 25% of my vermicompost originates from small bark nuggets. 10% is rice hulls. After a few days of normal daily watering the surface looks like this.
I do this 3 or so times a grow, and 3 real distinct layers form, with new roots colonizing each new layer in a week.
For guys with fungus gnats, that mulch layer of bark provides a great barrier.
My sips run different than your grow boxes but it all works. Just water instead of adding a tea. Condensation dripping off the shower cap will help further the process. I like thick layers of vermicompost, like 1/2 to 1 gal at a shot in a 10 gal.
Some people don’t like mulching with bark nuggets, cause they think that you have to move it to top dress or whatever. You don’t, just keep piling it on. Even dry meals, when sprinkled on tops are easily washed down under the bark, and immediately out of the reach of gnats.
when I get around to remixing/recycling that soil down the road, I mix the bark right in with everything else. Oh so easy and cheap!
I love how excited you guys are about sips and soil and worms.
cheers
os
I like to throw down a layer of dried and crumbled leaves, then I cover with vermicompost. Leaves are optional, it’s just what I do cause I have em. (Trim, holy basil, citronella- stuff from my house plants that I know isn’t buggy).
I applied this layer of vermicompost yesterday and have watered it in 4x since. Quite a bit of the worm casting fines have already washed down into the soil.
I do this 3 or so times a grow, and 3 real distinct layers form, with new roots colonizing each new layer in a week.
For guys with fungus gnats, that mulch layer of bark provides a great barrier.
My sips run different than your grow boxes but it all works. Just water instead of adding a tea. Condensation dripping off the shower cap will help further the process. I like thick layers of vermicompost, like 1/2 to 1 gal at a shot in a 10 gal.
Some people don’t like mulching with bark nuggets, cause they think that you have to move it to top dress or whatever. You don’t, just keep piling it on. Even dry meals, when sprinkled on tops are easily washed down under the bark, and immediately out of the reach of gnats.
when I get around to remixing/recycling that soil down the road, I mix the bark right in with everything else. Oh so easy and cheap!
I love how excited you guys are about sips and soil and worms.
cheers
os
slowandeasy
Cultivators Club
Good info! I am gonna grab some worms next week, I want my 6 open juniors to be ready for them. I have to grab some straw and Kashi too. I dont have any leaves, bark or anything available right now, we have new snow on the ground as of last night. I didnt really want to get into worms, but I think the $40 to fill 16 Juniors with worms is cheap and they wont fo any harm...only good. I am just afraid of how to feed them bestx since I have no experience. Seems like some straw and Kashi will keep them happy and just keep applying as it goes down. So I will see what happens and how often they need top dressings. Is there anything else you suggest to keep them happy? Thanks, slowI have been rapping with a few of the boys about how I top dress and feed the soil for the longer term, especially when using worms in your containers.
I like to throw down a layer of dried and crumbled leaves, then I cover with vermicompost. Leaves are optional, it’s just what I do cause I have em. (Trim, holy basil, citronella- stuff from my house plants that I know isn’t buggy).
I applied this layer of vermicompost yesterday and have watered it in 4x since. Quite a bit of the worm casting fines have already washed down into the soil.
About 25% of my vermicompost originates from small bark nuggets. 10% is rice hulls. After a few days of normal daily watering the surface looks like this.
I do this 3 or so times a grow, and 3 real distinct layers form, with new roots colonizing each new layer in a week.
For guys with fungus gnats, that mulch layer of bark provides a great barrier.
My sips run different than your grow boxes but it all works. Just water instead of adding a tea. Condensation dripping off the shower cap will help further the process. I like thick layers of vermicompost, like 1/2 to 1 gal at a shot in a 10 gal.
Some people don’t like mulching with bark nuggets, cause they think that you have to move it to top dress or whatever. You don’t, just keep piling it on. Even dry meals, when sprinkled on tops are easily washed down under the bark, and immediately out of the reach of gnats.
when I get around to remixing/recycling that soil down the road, I mix the bark right in with everything else. Oh so easy and cheap!
I love how excited you guys are about sips and soil and worms.
cheers
os
The bark nuggets that come in bags at places like Lowe’s are what I use. It’s about the only techie app thing I do. Even In the winter I can Lowe’s app a bag of small bark nuggets, they grab it from way in the back, and have it ready up front when I show up.
otherwise, just let those worms work the soil. Dont worry about feeding them, they do fine.
Where the worms will really benefit the soil, is next run- whichever way you go. Just be sure to leave the roots behind for the worms. The old roots have everything the new roots need, the worms just make it happen.
I think about Fan leaves the same way. Fan leaves that are mulched, have everything a new leaf would need. It’s the law of returns.
Of course you don’t get enough of everything that way, but what the worms are processing is now very specific and matched right because it’s from the same type of plant. So what ya end up with is just perfect for another canna plant.
side note, forgotten cookies is awesome, part to blame for the length of the post.
cheers
os
otherwise, just let those worms work the soil. Dont worry about feeding them, they do fine.
Where the worms will really benefit the soil, is next run- whichever way you go. Just be sure to leave the roots behind for the worms. The old roots have everything the new roots need, the worms just make it happen.
I think about Fan leaves the same way. Fan leaves that are mulched, have everything a new leaf would need. It’s the law of returns.
Of course you don’t get enough of everything that way, but what the worms are processing is now very specific and matched right because it’s from the same type of plant. So what ya end up with is just perfect for another canna plant.
side note, forgotten cookies is awesome, part to blame for the length of the post.
cheers
os
slowandeasy
Cultivators Club
Hey @MrOldBoy , I have a few seedlings in Rootmakers. The one is def ready for transplant. So, here is what I just did. Dont Cut your Rootmakers ever again my friend! Push on all 4 sides and bottom to loosen the soil. Turn the Rootmaker upside down, with your fingers between the stem and it plopped right out! Perfect, no need to ruin that root maker. It actually came out crazy easy and perfectly. I like the way the roots look, nice and spread out already. I will use these over cups, but will be doing direct plant on my next seedling to see how it compares. I have an environment for seed starting directly now. I like the rootmakers and my new starter soil. But want to see how direct planting does. I think it direct planting will make the seedling grow faster with the higher temps I have for them now. Plus they will have food sooner. The Earthboxes wont overwater it, so the growth should be optimal? I will start a direct seed next time, in 2 weeks. Peace, slow
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Indica verses Sativa Temps?
The fatter Indica leaf verses the thinner Sativa leaf - which could handle more heat I suspect the Sativa but just Stoner Logic.
The fatter Indica leaf verses the thinner Sativa leaf - which could handle more heat I suspect the Sativa but just Stoner Logic.
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