Mephisto Genetics White Crack and Kis Organics Soil

[Organic Sinse]

I’m learning more about these girls as I grow ....

BAS is where the guy I follow, Pedro, gets his supplies for his EarthBox Grow so yes they know their stuff - BTW use coupon code Pedro for any BAS purchases and get I believe it’s 10% off - easy code to remember- Pedro .......

BAS and Tad are both great suppliers and sources of info, I respect both and both agree 15 gallons minimum on a good LOS Grow but have said 10 gallons could work but both are in reference to Photo Plants not Autos so I suspect the right strain in a Junior and it works, part of the reason I selected the smaller strains for my grow and when the Junior is heaped up it does hold about 6.5 gallons for sure so it’s possible to grow a good plant .....

Earthworms, particularly red warms, I feel are a HUGE factor in the Grow - they eat the top mulch and deposit castings rich in nutrients - finesti nutrients available and you can’t even buy them like when made right in the box - some of the castings are even delivered to the roots and they make air passage ways as well - lots of benefits ......

I have moved my lights up even further than when you last saw - on the cob I hung it direct, looped over top rail, there is no height left - the ES 180 has moved up as well - everything seems ok and I think we are getting some stretch ..... On the seedling I’ve even raised that light and she is reaching some - see if I can grow them a little less bushy - it the number of bud sites I’m interested in not leaves ..... After X grows I hopefully will have it dialed in, this is just my second time at the rodeo.

Pic shows junior soil waiting for new transplant - mulch on top with some Gro Kashi and a sprinkle of rock dust, rock dust helps worms digest as they don’t have stomachs- note there is lot of worms - challenge during grow will be to keep worms alive and well fed .... I find the earthbox to be a perfect little worm factory because of the just right moisture level in the soil and the condensation action under the shower cap - when all is right I can lift cap and find the worms right there eating away - they never stop when food and conditions are right.

View attachment 1146807

I think both you and slow are correct in the fact that autos don't need as much soil as the photos do. Probably half. I like the ten gallon containers because I am lazy and just want to water, and only whip up one batch of soil to last 3 grows or more.
cheers
os

 

[Organic Sinse]

@slowandeasy - I’m learning teas can mess with the reservoir and you don’t want to top water as that counters the wicking action and can cause issues ..... but if you do feed teas thru the reservoir you should put in an air stone - but just above that line they say don’t use air stone as it changes the water PH ..... you can read more here - Interesting .....

https://www.octopot.com/uploads/1/1/7/7/117761932/instructions_for_all_octopot_products.pdf

weekly but small agree but you might wanna switch up and toss some kashi in there - the worms if you use good castings should come natural - did you find any in white crwck?

A strategy I would try is to let the res level go dry/ down, and soil dry out a touch, then top water teas in. That way, there shouldn't be any tea making it into the res to cause issues. A couple hours after applying the tea, you can top off the res again.
cheers
os

 

[MrOldBoy]

Great question. When I grow inside, its winter and my indoor RH is super low. I have been trying to run my grows with all my plants very close to the same age lately, instead of significantly staggering starts. The spraying/misting helps bring up the RH in the plants microclimate without having to put quite so much water into the air via humidifier (which is still several gallons a day). This would essentially be for the first half or so of a grow. In other words, when I have 6 seedlings going, (for a total of 6 plants) they don't transpire enough water to keep my RH and temps in the prime VPD zone.
Before I got smart and bought a humidifier, I intentionally ran staggered starts, so that the plants in flower transpired lots of water in the air. Then I would be able to maintain around 45% RH all the time. While that's fine for plants in flower, I feel its way to low for seedlings and plants in veg. As an interesting aside, the first 2 plants of 6, would always be a little bit of runts do to the RH being less than ideal to very dry. Then as the grows would progress, things would even out.
The moral of the story, for veg and seedlings I have the best results with RH around 65% or higher at leaf temps of about 78'F, or air temp of 80'F.
cheers
os

I gotta ya now and then the aloe water for those benefits ....

I like the RH and Temp even higher for real young gals - 84-85 and 70% but I usually can only get 60-66% RH .... Right now I have a sour livers about 9 days old and she is at 84-85 but RH I’m fighting keeps dropping into the 55 range so this time I put a wet rag inside the dome and we are maintaining 66% ..... Once I transplant she will go into 77 degrees and 55% RH as she will be sharing a tent with a flower girl unfortunately.

Thanks,
MOB

 

[Organic Sinse]

I gotta ya now and then the aloe water for those benefits ....

I like the RH and Temp even higher for real young gals - 84-85 and 70% but I usually can only get 60-66% RH .... Right now I have a sour livers about 9 days old and she is at 84-85 but RH I’m fighting keeps dropping into the 55 range so this time I put a wet rag inside the dome and we are maintaining 66% ..... Once I transplant she will go into 77 degrees and 55% RH as she will be sharing a tent with a flower girl unfortunately.

Thanks,
MOB

I always start in my final containers, I can usually only get my room up to 80’F. That was the nice thing about running blurple panels, I was able to get higher temps. It’s hovering right around 0 outside, so I am stoked to be able to maintain 78 or so air temps at the moment.
cheers
os

 

[MMMi]

I think I'm gonna take a break from organics for a bit. Nothing is really working on the pests. BTI, mites, one dose of nematodes. I get 3-4 days of hope where the traps only get a couple, then BAM... another wave. Thrips are just laughing at everything.

So......

I'm going to not do anything more toxic until I harvest my 2 coco monsters that are very close < 2 weeks. Then I'm going to nuke the fuck out of the 3 organic girls with Dr Zymes, a layer of neem seed and 55 gallons of mosquito bits for starters. Foliar, soil, everything. I'll re-innoculate maybe. Sucks that I have to basically kill all the good fungus in the soil (quite a bit, it's very visible after weekly MBP) but fuck it.

If that doesn't move the needle then I'm gonna chop and throw everything out. Plants, soil, maybe even the containers. Either bleach the tent, bomb it, or set it on fire. I'm done.

Going back to sterile coco for a bit, might try again down the road. I like the promise, but right now the juice isn't worth the vig.

 

[MrOldBoy]

I always start in my final containers, I can usually only get my room up to 80’F. That was the nice thing about running blurple panels, I was able to get higher temps. It’s hovering right around 0 outside, so I am stoked to be able to maintain 78 or so air temps at the moment.
cheers
os

Limited space is main reason and then add in a very long history of starting tomatoes and other vegetables inside plus I’ve discovered how effective the rootmaker starter pots work for me and no transplant issues - BUT - my mind is open and I will give it a go, just not sure when I’ll get my Grow area / conditions right but time will come

I think I'm gonna take a break from organics for a bit. Nothing is really working on the pests. BTI, mites, one dose of nematodes. I get 3-4 days of hope where the traps only get a couple, then BAM... another wave. Thrips are just laughing at everything.

So......

I'm going to not do anything more toxic until I harvest my 2 coco monsters that are very close < 2 weeks. Then I'm going to nuke the fuck out of the 3 organic girls with Dr Zymes, a layer of neem seed and 55 gallons of mosquito bits for starters. Foliar, soil, everything. I'll re-innoculate maybe. Sucks that I have to basically kill all the good fungus in the soil (quite a bit, it's very visible after weekly MBP) but fuck it.

If that doesn't move the needle then I'm gonna chop and throw everything out. Plants, soil, maybe even the containers. Either bleach the tent, bomb it, or set it on fire. I'm done.

Going back to sterile coco for a bit, might try again down the road. I like the promise, but right now the juice isn't worth the vig.

Very frustrating, bummer for sure ...... Best of luck eliminating those suckers.

 

[Organic Sinse]

Limited space is main reason and then add in a very long history of starting tomatoes and other vegetables inside plus I’ve discovered how effective the rootmaker starter pots work for me and no transplant issues - BUT - my mind is open and I will give it a go, just not sure when I’ll get my Grow area / conditions right but time will come



Very frustrating, bummer for sure ...... Best of luck eliminating those suckers.

I meant that’s why I don’t run even higher temps for starts/ seedlings. I use the same grow area start to finish and try to keep my legal plant limit at 6, so there is no advantages for me to do anything different.
Keep doing what works for you, cause it seems to work quite well.
cheers
os

 

[slowandeasy]

So I bumped 1 of the Mystery Seedling and knocked it over. I was really surprised that all of the Starter Soil plopped out and fell apart that easily. The soil didnt stay together at all. Its only been a few days, so the root system is not big...but looking at how the soil was not packed at all I am not super confident thst they will transplant wuthout cutting the rootmaker like you did. Only time will tell. Gonna have to wait a good week from now before transplanting, so we will see then. I have a couple seedlings in cups, so we will also see how they do vs Rootmakers. Peace, slow.

 

[MrOldBoy]

So I bumped 1 of the Mystery Seedling and knocked it over. I was really surprised that all of the Starter Soil plopped out and fell apart that easily. The soil didnt stay together at all. Its only been a few days, so the root system is not big...but looking at how the soil was not packed at all I am not super confident thst they will transplant wuthout cutting the rootmaker like you did. Only time will tell. Gonna have to wait a good week from now before transplanting, so we will see then. I have a couple seedlings in cups, so we will also see how they do vs Rootmakers. Peace, slow.

Rootmakers vs Solo Cups? Don’t mean to laugh but they won’t compare - 40+ years of starting vegetables indoors, pouring over seed catalogs, magazines, books and different starting pots and methods I can unequivocally say, rootmaker is the best starting pots I’ve ever used .....

@slowandeasy She wasn’t ready to come out - a light soil mix will fall apart until roots form and your Mystery Seedling was too young ..... Sour Livers is about a day away, she is a exactly 10 days above ground this AM - she peeked head at 8:25 am on Sunday 10 days ago .... I can see the roots staring to come thru the drainage holes - she is close but not there yet - will transplant this weekend .....

 

[slowandeasy]

Rootmakers vs Solo Cups? Don’t mean to laugh but they won’t compare - 40+ years of starting vegetables indoors, pouring over seed catalogs, magazines, books and different starting pots and methods I can unequivocally say, rootmaker is the best starting pots I’ve ever used .....

@slowandeasy She wasn’t ready to come out - a light soil mix will fall apart until roots form and your Mystery Seedling was too young ..... Sour Livers is about a day away, she is a exactly 10 days above ground this AM - she peeked head at 8:25 am on Sunday 10 days ago .... I can see the roots staring to come thru the drainage holes - she is close but not there yet - will transplant this weekend .....

View attachment 1147274

No, I dont use Solo cups an I said I would personally see the difference, they are 9oz cups. I had 2 cups of soil prepped for clones, so I used them for seeds instead because the seeds were ready ro be planted.