New Grower Super Lemon Haze Auto

[Unique]

Great.. Ok, so we'll say day 51ish hehe.. didn't really know where to start day from

Will take your advice on the sand too.. great idea, thanks heaps

your very welcome, I want your grow to be very successful.. I know I seen other's give people tips about using sand and really seems like it can help this situation a bit, coz it's getting near crunch time and you won't be able continue spraying forever once flower are getting really developed.. Everyone following along to make sure this turns out great for ya, I know I am!

 

[Master_gRoshi]

@Ash-a-Ton you could be right my friend..! After pulling her out the tent and having a good look saw some very small web, like one single line from one part of the leaf to another.. So if I do have them, it's early stages and it's not just spider mites I'm dealing with.. Maybe have white fly too but not sure. Found a great article on another site about how to deal with them and neem oil keeps popping up so I'll keep using that for now. Another organic solution was used with Habenaro chillies I might try if this fails. I have taken her out and gave a really good spray all over and under leaves, and did cut a couple off to have a good before I did that as well, didn't see any spider mites though. Have also repositioned my fan lower to blow upwards on her as I was reading it's really hard for them to breed in windy conditions, along with @Unique 's suggestion putting sand in, so I hope that helps too. Fingers crossed and thanks again for your help

i pray you dont. Easy to kill. But they are a disaster

 

[Dudeski]

Diomateous earth is good to use. Not sure I spelled it right. Sand is easily found and works great!

 

[Exotic Flower]

About the "days" thing, the most important thing is to check when the plant is ready, irrespective of how many days the breeder says it will take until it's mature enough to harvest. There is a window of harvest, from just ready to very ripe.
On the "just ready" side of things, you probably want 70% of the pistils to have changed color from white (or pink) to brown / orange, and the trichomes (the little bulbs of crystal) to be changing from clear to cloudy (white).
On the "very mature" side of things, then almost all the pistils will be brown (or fallen off), and the trichomes having maybe 50% cloudy and 50% amber.
The earlier harvest tends to be "higher", whereas the later harvest more "stone".
Often the buds up top and down bottom will have some differences, with the lower buds maybe needing a little more time.
I personally prefer a slightly earlier "high" product, so harvest earlier than most.
But earlier will also mean less weight. Pistils changing to orange / brown doesn't mean that the calyx (the little pointed flower itself) is fully matured in size, as they often bulk up after the pistils have turned and they are no longer viable to seed.
A lot of people will pick a little bud fairly early, fast dry and test, and then wait a little longer, etc.
That's also a good way to maybe stagger your harvest, keep them separate, and test smoke them.
You can find whether an earlier higher flower is better for you, a medium one, or a late matured flower works for you.
Main point, look at your plant, and see when it's ready, and don't worry too much about what day it's on.
Though definitely record what day, if you want to grow that same strain again and need to time things.

You got this, girl!!!

 

[Master_gRoshi]

About the "days" thing, the most important thing is to check when the plant is ready, irrespective of how many days the breeder says it will take until it's mature enough to harvest. There is a window of harvest, from just ready to very ripe.
On the "just ready" side of things, you probably want 70% of the pistils to have changed color from white (or pink) to brown / orange, and the trichomes (the little bulbs of crystal) to be changing from clear to cloudy (white).
On the "very mature" side of things, then almost all the pistils will be brown (or fallen off), and the trichomes having maybe 50% cloudy and 50% amber.
The earlier harvest tends to be "higher", whereas the later harvest more "stone".
Often the buds up top and down bottom will have some differences, with the lower buds maybe needing a little more time.
I personally prefer a slightly earlier "high" product, so harvest earlier than most.
But earlier will also mean less weight. Pistils changing to orange / brown doesn't mean that the calyx (the little pointed flower itself) is fully matured in size, as they often bulk up after the pistils have turned and they are no longer viable to seed.
A lot of people will pick a little bud fairly early, fast dry and test, and then wait a little longer, etc.
That's also a good way to maybe stagger your harvest, keep them separate, and test smoke them.
You can find whether an earlier higher flower is better for you, a medium one, or a late matured flower works for you.
Main point, look at your plant, and see when it's ready, and don't worry too much about what day it's on.
Though definitely record what day, if you want to grow that same strain again and need to time things.

You got this, girl!!!

Great breakdown!

 

[Exotic Flower]

If you have a gentle hand, a wet soft cloth or thick kitchen paper towel can be used to wipe down larger leaves and stems, removing the mites and their webs. Prob don't want to try this on the buds though....

 

[Avalanche Blanch]

Diomateous earth is good to use. Not sure I spelled it right. Sand is easily found and works great!

I'll check that out, never heard of that one.. Cheers Dudeski

 

[Avalanche Blanch]

About the "days" thing, the most important thing is to check when the plant is ready, irrespective of how many days the breeder says it will take until it's mature enough to harvest. There is a window of harvest, from just ready to very ripe.
On the "just ready" side of things, you probably want 70% of the pistils to have changed color from white (or pink) to brown / orange, and the trichomes (the little bulbs of crystal) to be changing from clear to cloudy (white).
On the "very mature" side of things, then almost all the pistils will be brown (or fallen off), and the trichomes having maybe 50% cloudy and 50% amber.
The earlier harvest tends to be "higher", whereas the later harvest more "stone".
Often the buds up top and down bottom will have some differences, with the lower buds maybe needing a little more time.
I personally prefer a slightly earlier "high" product, so harvest earlier than most.
But earlier will also mean less weight. Pistils changing to orange / brown doesn't mean that the calyx (the little pointed flower itself) is fully matured in size, as they often bulk up after the pistils have turned and they are no longer viable to seed.
A lot of people will pick a little bud fairly early, fast dry and test, and then wait a little longer, etc.
That's also a good way to maybe stagger your harvest, keep them separate, and test smoke them.
You can find whether an earlier higher flower is better for you, a medium one, or a late matured flower works for you.
Main point, look at your plant, and see when it's ready, and don't worry too much about what day it's on.
Though definitely record what day, if you want to grow that same strain again and need to time things.

You got this, girl!!!

Thanks for the info Maria.. I have read a few articles about that so it's good to get that confirmation. I think I would be the same as you with an earlier harvest, would prefer a more active high for sure. Don't really want to push just for weight, I won't be able to smoke a lot anyways as I'm starting a new job soon that does random drug testing *sigh*. Once she gets on a bit more might pick a lower bud to dry n try, see how she feels.. great idea

If you have a gentle hand, a wet soft cloth or thick kitchen paper towel can be used to wipe down larger leaves and stems, removing the mites and their webs. Prob don't want to try this on the buds though....

Love this suggestion.. I do have a gentle hand These invaders won't know what's hit em'

 

[Unique]

About the "days" thing, the most important thing is to check when the plant is ready, irrespective of how many days the breeder says it will take until it's mature enough to harvest. There is a window of harvest, from just ready to very ripe.
On the "just ready" side of things, you probably want 70% of the pistils to have changed color from white (or pink) to brown / orange, and the trichomes (the little bulbs of crystal) to be changing from clear to cloudy (white).
On the "very mature" side of things, then almost all the pistils will be brown (or fallen off), and the trichomes having maybe 50% cloudy and 50% amber.
The earlier harvest tends to be "higher", whereas the later harvest more "stone".
Often the buds up top and down bottom will have some differences, with the lower buds maybe needing a little more time.
I personally prefer a slightly earlier "high" product, so harvest earlier than most.
But earlier will also mean less weight. Pistils changing to orange / brown doesn't mean that the calyx (the little pointed flower itself) is fully matured in size, as they often bulk up after the pistils have turned and they are no longer viable to seed.
A lot of people will pick a little bud fairly early, fast dry and test, and then wait a little longer, etc.
That's also a good way to maybe stagger your harvest, keep them separate, and test smoke them.
You can find whether an earlier higher flower is better for you, a medium one, or a late matured flower works for you.
Main point, look at your plant, and see when it's ready, and don't worry too much about what day it's on.
Though definitely record what day, if you want to grow that same strain again and need to time things.

You got this, girl!!!

I just think it helps the time-line a bit and also if anyone watching and thinking about growing it, just give them better time line, really day 1 is not started until first set is out, the first 3-4 days when plant is breaking ground, really the only thing going on is root building.. It's not until the 1st set come out until the plant actually starts doing anything. I also think moving it back to day 51, that plant will finish in time line breeder says it will or damn close to that, automatically would been 10 days+ if stayed with day 61..

 

[Padawan1972]

I just think it helps the time-line a bit and also if anyone watching and thinking about growing it, just give them better time line, really day 1 is not started until first set is out, the first 3-4 days when plant is breaking ground, really the only thing going on is root building.. It's not until the 1st set come out until the plant actually starts doing anything. I also think moving it back to day 51, that plant will finish in time line breeder says it will or damn close to that, automatically would been 10 days+ if stayed with day 61..

I kinda follow that guideline myself...I dont start counting until I see first set of true leaves, and a second set just about to show. That way I know the plant is out of the seedling sprout "danger zone" , I have had seeds stuck in the seedling stage only to lag and then just quit altogether..no suicide note, nothing...just dead. This way I know the seeding is healthy and willing to grow with little worry.