Oh boy. "interveinal chlorosis with necrotic spots" --- you know that kind of talk just makes me wet.
And I now suspect that wetness may have something to do with this problem. I been a little "cheap" with the nutrients, and only feeding enough to get a very slight run-off; sometimes only dampness on the bottom of the pot. Definitely nowhere near 15%.
This is interesting; 'cause in my early coco-in-fiber-pot grows (2016), I always got enough run-off to need the wet-dry vac every morning. And those were some of my highest yielding grows.
I've never checked the pH and ppm's of run-off. Guess its time to start. 1st-things-1st, I got to get a new pH meter for liquid as I killed my BlueLab probe by letting it dry out.
Thanks for your continued observations here. This is great learning for me.

you're my kinda sick mate! ....I hope you mean under the eyes,...

To me, coco is a calling,...

... seen several fine growers in soil/peat do miserably in coco, even following the typical by-hand feeding protocol; drip line users seem to do better generally! And a fair number of peep's seem to get away with treating coco more or less like soil, but sooner or later it bites them in the ass. Sick Bay is always packed with coco users, #1 problem medium hands down!
Because of it's good water holding, yet good draining and breathing properties, it can handle the constant wetness very well, in fact that constant purging is key as it helps remove "spent" or excess nutes from the coco, and as it does, it draws in fresh air when draining... the major factor here is the nutes concentration, EC/ppm's... I cite the orchid growers mantra, an apt analogy : fertilize weakly, weekly,.. but with coco of course that more or less daily!
So I'm not surprised by the better results you had in coco when doing the wet-vac routine!
As for the Autopots, I'm not 100% on this, but as a general rule, folks seem to be running lower ppm's in the res' than even true hydro growers do... this is certainly part of the why behind how well coco works with this system; there's still frequent replenishing and balancing of the component nutes in there, but at low conc., maybe it's avoiding such build-up and the roots are taking up just enough to keep things in check,.. My coco guru Arty-Zan ran his brilliant grows in coco with ppm's as high as 800+, depending on what the girls were telling him,... 20-40% run-off depending on water source and the constant pH and EC readings going in vs. coming out.... Coco is very labor intensive unless in a system like drip, or Autopots... the upside is one can grow monsters in tiny pot volume, if you have the time and set-up!
pH meters are like a bloody pet!

Even off season, I have to deal with mine monthy just to make sure the bulb doesn't get dry and fragg'-out on me,.. proper storage solution is key too, RO/Di water will ruin it eventually (has to do with how they work, very peculiar). Blue Labs actually has very good info about how they work, care, etc.,... But all are touchy instruments, no way around it... I still recommend getting a good soil/medium pH probe, like the Accurate 8 , or identical unit under a different brand name outside USA,... For Autopots, not being cycled like usual, it can be helpful just to check if there's trouble,...
interesting that your seeing the same symptoms coming in on the other killer kush getting MC. From your first pic the plants have a good green color, not like the first time when it looked a shade light.
I wonder if some of it is that damn odd LED Ca/Mg demand syndrome?
If your seeing it on both killer kush getting different nutrients, and using the same media for both of these and the autopot plants getting the two nutrient mixes then I see two variables.
1) strain difference, both killer kush are showing this same issue but none of the other strains getting the same nutrients are.
2) hand water vs autopots, there could be some difference in what’s happening in the root zone in these that is leading to the issue.
I agree with @Waira that there might be some value in flushing the media just in case there is something going on there. For coco, I flush starting with a little plain pH6 water until the runoff is ~500ppm or less. Then 1/4 strength nutrient followed by full strength to refeed. I know there are a lot of different ways to flush but that was alway my go to method.
I think what that coco-pro recommendation said about this special flush soln. was that water alone isn't enough to dislodge cations off the particles very well, some sort of stronger charge is needed to boot them off. By having both strongly charged Ca++, Mg++ and some nutes in the soln., you cover the CEC "fixing" base and the balanced nutrition base covered all in one shot,... I think the weak nutes are kept so, so that they don't interfere with the restoration of the CEC with Ca/Mg....

Give it a day, then back to bizz as usual with nute solution!