Mephisto Genetics Organic "Green Sea of Change" 6 MG strains always changing

I will go fly fish for steelies once in a while. Its kind of a weather thing for me too. Usually when the steelies are running, its the rainy season and the rivers get blown out quite quickly. That means you have to time it just right, or miss out. The older I get, the less Ilike to bank on the weather cooperating. The only nice thing about bad weather, keeps the crowds away for sure. I don't drift fish much anymore, but I get lots of offers. My friends I take out in the salt, all have drift boats or rafts. We have some giant bows up here that are a lot of fun.
cheers
os

Yea right on the weathEr, best catches have been at minus 10 to 10 above ..... Drift as in down a River ..... You and I have some middle ground but two different kinds of fishing, my biggest Spinning Rod is 7’ and 6 lb line ..... In the ocean I would think you start around 12 lb and up for some of those monsters, sea food mich better than fresh so you are blessed ..... Harvest much seaweed?
 
Yea right on the weathEr, best catches have been at minus 10 to 10 above ..... Drift as in down a River ..... You and I have some middle ground but two different kinds of fishing, my biggest Spinning Rod is 7’ and 6 lb line ..... In the ocean I would think you start around 12 lb and up for some of those monsters, sea food mich better than fresh so you are blessed ..... Harvest much seaweed?
I use 6lb for catching live herring, otherwise I don't go under 30lb for troll or jigging rods. Even if I am targeting 15-20 lb salmon, you never know when a big ole 50 lb or better King Salmon hits your gear, don't want to loose those. Bottom fish gear for barn doors (halibut) is spectra from 65-100 lb, and short 'pool cue' stand up rods (4-5' long). When bottom fishing I use up to 3 lbs of lead to get bait down, or jigs bigger than a lb.
Freshwater fishing, my true fav is fishing for 'Artic Grayling' with my 5 wt fly rod, or ultralight spinning rod. I don't get a chance to do this very often any more.
I do pick up brown bull kelp every once in a while. It is a lot of work to actually chop up so I usually don't bother. About the only time I will stop and grab some is if its fouled in my gear or on the boat. Its best to steer far clear of on the water. My good friend beach combs for bull kelp at low tide with the kids, he collects a lot. He has a pretty big spread, and can sun dry it, and then run it thru a mulcher. He soaks it a 'long time' in water, and uses it for watering. Seems to work good.
Fishing talk has got the itch growing!
cheers
os
 
The 'Port and Stilton' came down. I really like the structure on this kind of plant. These are the ones I can really train well. I chopped her at 70 days. She was 32" tall, and yielded 193 grams of dried and jarred nugs.
Here is a shot from the grow room at chop time. She naturally faded quite well. She was eating from the big fan leaves.
I gave her a trim for camera, so you could see what was there. Here is a god shot of the lowers and middle. Here is a nice shot of the whole plant. Lots of nice colas everywhere! She purped a little bit as well.
I thought I would snap a couple shots from above. Shit looks real frosty when I'm not blocking the light in the room with my bod.

Couldn't be happier with this girl! That was the second no till cycle on this container, I already have a new 'Sweet n Sour' growing in this same pot.
cheers
os
 
A while back I grew a 'Sour Stomper' and just plain missed posting her pics. She went 69 days, grew 32" tall, and yielded 96 grams dried and jarred nugs. Kind of a funny looking plant, but frosty as hell. Really full at the bottom.
Little cola on the top
kinda sparse in the mid upper
I did do some defoliating on this one before flower. I think is partly why it turned out funny looking. Still a great little plant. Frost level superb.
Here is a bud shot, nothing special but since I have the stickers, it looks fancy.
cheers
os
 
Hey Sensi,

How ya doing .... Plants look marvelous as usual .... One reminds me of an orphan Xmas tree ....

Second go in no till better than first?

Good Work Bro, You’re a Machine!
 
Hey Sensi,

How ya doing .... Plants look marvelous as usual .... One reminds me of an orphan Xmas tree ....

Second go in no till better than first?

Good Work Bro, You’re a Machine!
The 'Sour Stomper' has that one section that looks pretty bare. It reminds me of 'Charlie Brown's Xmas Branch'.
Second run was pretty smooth, didn't seem to run low on anything.
All the plants I'm running now are all on their 3rd round. This should be the best, but we will see.
Here are some morning coffee thoughts I would share about nutrient cycling and what I do.
The trick with no till is nutrient cycling. Just because you are running low on something toward the end of a cycle, doesn't mean that you need to add more in the interim, because hopefully time and the life in your pot will have made more available by the time you need it again.
The way I think about goes kind of like this. I don't really think in NPK terms, but this is a concept that has to be understood that way. For example with regards to N. In the beginning of the first cycle after around the 3rd week, the plant takes a lot of N from the soil and continues to take a lot till just after the middle of the cycle, at which point it takes less and less. As the plant is taking less, it allows the N concentration to build again as materials break down and more N becomes available. This is why its important to have very slow release items in your mix. This is the job that is served by bark in the mix and top dress, as well as the mulch, and any rootballs that are breaking down in the soil. So the moral of the story is even if you are sure you were running low on N during the previous round, you may be just fine on N the next. When it comes to the 3rd round, you have lots of roots breaking down from several cycles, as well as bark and mulch. I also have the first 2 or 3 weeks of plant life each cycle, when the plant isn't really taking anything from the soil, which also gives the soil time to build up its stores.
This whole ebb and flow of nutrients is partially why I am hesitant to defoliate during a grow. If there is a time that a mobile nutrient is running low in the soil, the plant can take from its stores or sinks in the leaves, and just clip right along hoping that the soil will catch up. When the plant starts translocating nutrients is when I believe that the plant will send signals thru the rhizosphere to mycorrhizae and other soil life, to search out and find what it needs and set up a network. There is of course a lag time, and that is where the leaf stores come in.

There is a whole phenomenon that happens with P and mychorizzae. It works like this. If there is plenty of P readily available to a plant in the beginning of its life, it will make no effort to set up a P gathering network, cause its not needed. Then when all the easy P is gone, it begins to set up a network to find and utilize P. There is a lag time. This is the whole reason, why seed starter with almost nil for nutrients works better than a nutrient rich seed starter. Low nutrient soil causes the plant to set up networks early.

With no till, these networks or pathways are left intact, and the new host plant is often able to take advantage of these networks, and have little to no lag time.

cheers
os
 
The 'Sour Stomper' has that one section that looks pretty bare. It reminds me of 'Charlie Brown's Xmas Branch'.
Second run was pretty smooth, didn't seem to run low on anything.
All the plants I'm running now are all on their 3rd round. This should be the best, but we will see.
Here are some morning coffee thoughts I would share about nutrient cycling and what I do.
The trick with no till is nutrient cycling. Just because you are running low on something toward the end of a cycle, doesn't mean that you need to add more in the interim, because hopefully time and the life in your pot will have made more available by the time you need it again.
The way I think about goes kind of like this. I don't really think in NPK terms, but this is a concept that has to be understood that way. For example with regards to N. In the beginning of the first cycle after around the 3rd week, the plant takes a lot of N from the soil and continues to take a lot till just after the middle of the cycle, at which point it takes less and less. As the plant is taking less, it allows the N concentration to build again as materials break down and more N becomes available. This is why its important to have very slow release items in your mix. This is the job that is served by bark in the mix and top dress, as well as the mulch, and any rootballs that are breaking down in the soil. So the moral of the story is even if you are sure you were running low on N during the previous round, you may be just fine on N the next. When it comes to the 3rd round, you have lots of roots breaking down from several cycles, as well as bark and mulch. I also have the first 2 or 3 weeks of plant life each cycle, when the plant isn't really taking anything from the soil, which also gives the soil time to build up its stores.
This whole ebb and flow of nutrients is partially why I am hesitant to defoliate during a grow. If there is a time that a mobile nutrient is running low in the soil, the plant can take from its stores or sinks in the leaves, and just clip right along hoping that the soil will catch up. When the plant starts translocating nutrients is when I believe that the plant will send signals thru the rhizosphere to mycorrhizae and other soil life, to search out and find what it needs and set up a network. There is of course a lag time, and that is where the leaf stores come in.

There is a whole phenomenon that happens with P and mychorizzae. It works like this. If there is plenty of P readily available to a plant in the beginning of its life, it will make no effort to set up a P gathering network, cause its not needed. Then when all the easy P is gone, it begins to set up a network to find and utilize P. There is a lag time. This is the whole reason, why seed starter with almost nil for nutrients works better than a nutrient rich seed starter. Low nutrient soil causes the plant to set up networks early.

With no till, these networks or pathways are left intact, and the new host plant is often able to take advantage of these networks, and have little to no lag time.

cheers
os


Very interesting and informative post my friend ...... I learned with Sam, although no hard lessons, but spare the Fan Leaves ..... sometimes even as we grow from experience we still have knee jerk reactions .....

Surely do appreciate ..... My next hurdle, hopefully, will be when to harvest but I’ll figure and maybe even do a spilt harvest?
 
Very interesting and informative post my friend ...... I learned with Sam, although no hard lessons, but spare the Fan Leaves ..... sometimes even as we grow from experience we still have knee jerk reactions .....

Surely do appreciate ..... My next hurdle, hopefully, will be when to harvest but I’ll figure and maybe even do a spilt harvest?
The sparing the leaves conclusion that I draw is purely theory, but the info leading up to that theory, is mostly based on the “Teaming with XXXXXX” books by Jeff Lowenfels.
The spirit of my thoughts is to remember that leaves are more than just solar panels that drive photosynthesis.
There is a fine balance to be found with defoliating, and
I am just trying to figuring it out.
Cheers
Os
 
The sparing the leaves conclusion that I draw is purely theory, but the info leading up to that theory, is mostly based on the “Teaming with XXXXXX” books by Jeff Lowenfels.
The spirit of my thoughts is to remember that leaves are more than just solar panels that drive photosynthesis.
There is a fine balance to be found with defoliating, and
I am just trying to figuring it out.
Cheers
Os

Well me thunk u correct .... Everything has a purpose and until I hear something more logical I’m going with “Sensi Stoner Science”!
 
I thought I would some mid grow pics.
I have an Auto Livers at 62 days, she is 24" tall. Not a hint of any darkening in the 'hairs', they are all 100% white still. I think when the 'hairs' turn red, it will happen all at once. She has been feeding of her leaves pretty well, not all of my plants do that. I think she has 1-2 weeks left, and is nothing but fat hard buds, that just keep swelling.
I also have a Bubbasquanch that is getting close. She is 56 days and looking good. She is about 36" tall. Lots of bud sites, they are all nice and plump. I'm thinking 2 weeks on this one as well. I also expect I will have to tie up the side branches as they will get heavy.
Here is a fine specimen of Ghost Toof at 43 days. She is about 40" tall. She is gonna be pretty wide around the middle, and will need Velcro to support the side branches.
This brings up my Grape walker Kush at 38 days. This is a bad pic, cause there is so much other stuff packed in real close. Sinse is out of room! She is about 40 inches tall, and will also need Velcro to hold up side branches.
These last 3 bigger plants all trained really well. Lots of branch and double branch staking, and excellent leaf tucking all the way around. MOB, keep an eye on these last 3, they are going to be quite nice!
cheers
os
 
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