Live Stoner Chat Live Stoner Chat - Apr-Jun '23

[JP1]

@Lil Dab

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

I'm sorry, but just based on personal experience, I completely disagree with most of this chart.

Why would you hold off on giving silica? Silica is to help plant health and growth by providing what it needs for strong cell walls. Not only that, you want that early AND you want it late when the flowers are growing.

I also do not believe in modifying your 3 main nutrients (micro, gro, bloom) throughout the grow. The Phosphorus in the bloom nutrient is not just needed during bloom, its required for strong root growth. When do you want strong root growth? The entire time the plant is growing!

Absolutely start with a more dilute nutrient solution so you don't fry the plant, but you are not going to hurt it by there being more phosphorus than it needs. It just won't use it. Obviously to an extent, don't cause a lockout.

I also think additive nutrients like Koolbloom are stupid. Its just boosting the phosphorus. Why is whoever doing this chart doing that AND also messing with the amount of bloom nutrient? Either koolbloom gives the boost you need...or why are you using it?

I'm sure I'm going to get some hate for this, but this whole chart reads like a bunch of woo woo science BS to me. I would put my time and energy into better lighting and quality nutrients and grow medium. I've seen plenty of weed grown with masterblend that costs 3 cents a gallon. If you're feeling really froggy, add some silica, and maybe something that actually helps the plants absorb nutrients, like humic acid.

Edit - What I am trying to say is, I think there are too many variables changing throughout this chart. I do not feel that it was adequately tested for. Rather it was just someone that thinks they can think like a pot plant that came up with a feed chart, tried it out, and of course it works because it feeds the plant.

@Blue_dreamer Coco is a form of hydroponics, The plants only source for nutrients comes from the nutrient mix the grower provides, there is no carry over like in soil. That means there must be a balance of ALL of the nutrients the plant requires every time it is fertigated. In hydroponics this is achieved by blending several inputs that cannot be mixed into one bottle. The reason that mix changes is an attempt to have the balance of the nutrient mix to contain the nutrients the plant needs most at the given maturity but remember they all must be present in balance. Once the plant gets all of those nutrients it does not need anything else to grow but the additives help the plant to intake the basic nutrients at a higher level enhancing the plants overall performance.

The scientists that developed the GH Flora series of nutrients understands the Woo woo science behind the chart better than I ever will and probably you too. I have seen very good results when I used that exact system in hydroponics.

 

[NORB YIPPLS]

I fixed the problem of my filter being too large

 

[Shugrows]

 

[PinkyNotTheBrain]

Idk how ppl sit in an office all day time moves soooooo slow.

 

[Jpkindbud]

I fixed the problem of my filter being too large​

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Love DIY!

 

[Lil Dab]

You won't have to water more then twice a day in 5 gallons

@One Puff i was think the same thing in a 5 gallon pot 3 times a day is going to be more then enough.. I did it with only fertigating once a day in a 5 gallon grow bag

 

[N/A-Greengo]

Seeds look very well developed...

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[JP1]

Fox Farm Cream of the Crop 50/50 mix

Make sure you check your runoff ppm and pH with that before planting. Never trust the coco

I would like to reduce my learning curve by learning from others

Easiest thing to do is get nutes that are for coco. It'll take all the calmag problems away. This is all I've been using from seed to harvest and works well. How's your source water?

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

The HP was for cleaning the reservoir and not used in the fertigation that threw me at first too as it was not part of the video for mixing the nutrients.

Well that makes sense.

You can fertigate coco as many times a day as you want. You need to achieve a 20% run-off of the total input by the end of the fertigation period. You should start fertigating 2 hours after lights on and stop 2 hours prior to lights out.