Leaf 'delamination' ? ... severe curling, in parts.

[Waira]

..that's it Yoz! Did you do the soil pH run-off test yet? Without that, I'm just guessing, and now with the new symptoms, it's more critical than ever,... It looks mosy=tly like nute burn starting, but again, if the soil pH is off, it's rendering the nutes unavailable, unabsorbable, so they're just sitting in the roasting the roots with salt build-up.. adding more food will worsen matters! That said, these are two different symptoms, but cause is likely related,... Yoz, are you watering with straight tap water, or blending with something like RO/DI water? The harder water can help with low pH, more buffering minerals in it, but it's no fix either,.. need that in-soil pH mate, no way around it! I cannot advise very well being ignorant of that info,... that said, it's looking like a flush is in order, with distilled, RO, or some other low ppm water,....

 

[Yozhik]

..that's it Yoz! Did you do the soil pH run-off test yet? Without that, I'm just guessing, and now with the new symptoms, it's more critical than ever,... It looks mosy=tly like nute burn starting, but again, if the soil pH is off, it's rendering the nutes unavailable, unabsorbable, so they're just sitting in the roasting the roots with salt build-up.. adding more food will worsen matters! That said, these are two different symptoms, but cause is likely related,... Yoz, are you watering with straight tap water, or blending with something like RO/DI water? The harder water can help with low pH, more buffering minerals in it, but it's no fix either,.. need that in-soil pH mate, no way around it! I cannot advise very well being ignorant of that info,... that said, it's looking like a flush is in order, with distilled, RO, or some other low ppm water,....

I know it sounds easy to get RO/DI water, but here in the Spanish countryside - it ain't so easy ... not in the required quantities.

I'll really have to do some thinking about where I can source it.

Even bottled water, or so called spring water, in Spain is crap.
I have a very small RO unit for domestic use, but its throughput simply isn't enough for this task.
So the reality is that the only water I truly have access to in enough quantity, is the hard tap water, which I use for every watering, with the addition of pH down.


I'm trying to think back, and I do remember a few of the plants were potted with an older bag of soil from the previous grow, and the other with new bags of the same branded soil - Plagron lightmix. So now I'm thinking that the problem might be with the older soil. By old, I mean still in the original bag, from the previous grow - not recycled. It was noticeably drier than a new bag of the same brand soil, so thinking about it, it is very possible that some oxidation/reduction may have occurred in the 'drought' conditions. I don't know - I have no idea f knowing which pots had the older soil and which ones the new soil - it's a guess, but it does seem very possible. I also don't know if the soil degrades that quickly over the time of a grow, but I guess it does to some degree.

I know, I know ... "get a pH probe for the soil" ... I know @Waira - I hear ya ... really, I do

If this is the case, another [easier] solution would be to simply transplant into new pots, with new soil.

 

[Waira]

:smoking:Yoz, roger that my friend-- our Boss lives in Spain too...easy access to what is everyday stuff for many of us-- isn't over there! Good news is, in that method, it's only the final test-pour that gets RO water, just enough to get about a cup of run-off, plenty to test; in fact you don't want much run-off, it'll be too dilute; the first wetting can be done with your usual source, and is done to "steep" the soil a little... low ppm water is needed because it has no buffering capacity, so it won't skew the test results from the collected test run-off,... besides, from your EC, the water isn't that bad! I know, the EC to ppm conversion is kind of variable, depending on where in the world and what standard is used,... in USA, I think 1.0EC = 500ppm....Europe scale = 640ppm.... The older soil should be fine, since Plagrom light has so little stuff in it to begin with..nothing to spoil od chemically degrade there, really, not in that amount of time,... At the very least Yoz, a flush will help purge things out, using about 2x the pot volume to start with; test the run-off to see how it responds,... on the last pour, include 1/4 strength nutes,... I wouldn't transplant though, too much shock involved! Stunt-city, mate...no bueno!

 

[Yozhik]

I wouldn't transplant though, too much shock involved! Stunt-city, mate...no bueno!

Oooops ...

Errrrrr ... I already did it ...

 

[Waira]

---well, if you didn't disturb and damage the roots too much, she'll be okay... she'll let you know, by first drooping her leaves-- shock... B1 vitamins can help reduce this,... you can always run the pH test on the soil itself, right from the bag, in fact, that would be a good idea, and good practice! Fill up a 3-4+L container, and try it out,... Plagron is peat based I think, so should be in low 6's, if it's been mixed right,...

 

[Yozhik]

---well, if you didn't disturb and damage the roots too much, she'll be okay... she'll let you know, by first drooping her leaves-- shock... B1 vitamins can help reduce this,... you can always run the pH test on the soil itself, right from the bag, in fact, that would be a good idea, and good practice! Fill up a 3-4+L container, and try it out,... Plagron is peat based I think, so should be in low 6's, if it's been mixed right,...

No damage done.
Roots looked very healthy and well developed.
The two I transplanted already look perky.

Part of the feed is Advanced Nuttrients B-52, so that should satisfy the B1 requirement.