Dialing In MEGA CROP for Auto's

It is questionable in soil if chlorine or chloramines treated water can kill organisms. The literature goes both ways. In all forms of hydro except sterile hydro, I would remove them. Remember coco is hydro. I say this more out of an abundance of caution. Hydro is very unforgiving and this just removes one variable.

:vibe:
Yeah I learned all about hydro and the pains of it when I grew in dwc single 5 gallon buckets. I lost first crop to pythium. Learned about sterile or bennies quick. I just used hydroguard from then on and that wasnt a prob no more. Then 2nd crop hermied and chopped it pissed and started over. Then had 2 harvests that were good. But soil is easier so I switched to soil instead due to my health problems
 
Yeah I learned all about hydro and the pains of it when I grew in dwc single 5 gallon buckets. I lost first crop to pythium. Learned about sterile or bennies quick. I just used hydroguard from then on and that wasnt a prob no more. Then 2nd crop hermied and chopped it pissed and started over. Then had 2 harvests that were good. But soil is easier so I switched to soil instead due to my health problems
Once you get a soil system dialed in it does not get any easier. Hydro is an every day (often many times a day) growing style. @autobeast has a system with Bio-Bizz light Mix and some Advanced Nutrients dialed in and easy to duplicate.

:vibe:
 
I used to grow in dwc hydro. Now I am growing with biobizz light mix soil as suggested by autobeast. Instead of using AN nutes I decided to try mega crop cuz I have been intrigued by it from this site. So I'm new to growing soil plants. I know not to over water but I dont want to under water neither. Autobeast tutorial how to grow autos he says he feeds 3 liters to each plant in 5 gal grow bags every 3 days. But to feed with plain water in between feedings. So does that mean feed each plant nutrients with 3 liters of water when soil is dry. Then 3 days later feed just 3 liters of water. Then 3 days later 3 liters of water mixed nutes again? I'm using part a and b mega crop. Help with soil watering with mega crop please?
You can use that as sota as a guideline for watering. Plants in air pots, fabric pots, plastic pots and clay pots will all differ in water usage due to the pot's construction. If you have a mulch on top will have an effect on water usage. In my case, the amount of Humichar(a micronized 50/50 mix of humic acid and biochar) in the mix will help conserve water.
In other words, there's no set amount of watering that needs to be done for a set size of pot. It doesn't even take into account the plant's needs or the composition of the grow media..

Now, you need to scedule your feed when it's time to water.
 
Once you get a soil system dialed in it does not get any easier. Hydro is an every day (often many times a day) growing style. @autobeast has a system with Bio-Bizz light Mix and some Advanced Nutrients dialed in and easy to duplicate.

:vibe:
In my mind, hydro just doesn't make much sense, especially for the hobbyist grower.
While I just don't agree with the method, I can see where hydro can be a large labor saver in a large commercial operation.
 
Good info, thank you!


You need to look for ammonia in the sanitation section.

I suppose I should have said you can remove monochloramine with a very expensive carbon filter made for the purpose but really ascorbic acid is just cheaper. So many sites just call it chlorine as a group to include mono, di and trichloramines. Catalytic carbon is activated carbon that has gone through additional treatment to enhance carbon’s capacity to facilitate chemical changes. Chemical reactions require a catalyst. The surface area of catalytic carbon has been structurally enhanced and altered to provide a space for chemical reactions to occur. Catalytic carbon still possesses the remarkable adsorption properties of activated carbon, but it has been supercharged to target other contaminants as well. This includes chloramines. When chloramines come in contact with the catalytic carbon, a chemical reaction catalyzes a separation of the ammonia and the chlorine and converts them into harmless compounds in the water.

an RO system must be designed for chloramine removal not all systems will work.

It also looks like Humic acid will remove it as well as ascorbic acid but I have not investigated that yet.

This is an excerpt from the San Francisco Public Utilities Commission:

QUESTIONS REGARDING CHLORINE AND CHLORAMINE REMOVAL FROM WATER Updated March 2015 Q: Is it necessary to remove disinfectants from drinking water in a home setting? A: No, chlorinated and chloraminated water is safe for people and animals to drink, and for all other general uses including bathing. EPA believes that drinking water disinfected with monochloramine that meets regulatory standards is safe to use and it does not need to be removed. (USEPA, 2009) The removal of either chlorine or chloramine from drinking water is not necessary for public health but some customers may elect to do so for common household purposes based on personal preference. Chloramine is not a persistent disinfectant and decomposes easily from a chemistry point of view (Valentine et al, 1998) but for water supply purposes chloramine is stable and it takes days to dissipate in the absence of substances exerting chloramine demand (Wilczak et al., 2003b). Therefore, it is not practical to remove chloramine by letting an open container of water stand because it may take days for chloramine to dissipate. However, chloramine is very easily and almost instantaneously removed by preparing a cup of tea or coffee, preparing food (e.g., making a soup with a chicken stock). Adding fruit to a water pitcher (e.g., slicing peeled orange into a 1-gal water pitcher) will neutralize chloramine within 30 minutes. If desired, chloramine and ammonia can be completely removed from the water by boiling; however, it will take 20 minutes of gentle boil to do that. Just a short boil of water to prepare tea or coffee removed about 30% of chloramine. Conversely, chlorine was not as consistently removed by boiling in SFPUC tests. If desired, both chlorine and chloramine can be removed for drinking water purposes by an activated carbon filter point of use device that can be installed on a kitchen faucet. If desired, both chlorine and chloramine can be removed for bathing purposes by dissolving Vitamin C in the bath water (1000 mg Vitamin C tablet will neutralize chloramine in an average bathtub). SFPUC does not recommend that customers remove disinfectants from drinking water. Customers desiring to do so should consult with their physician.

The entire article is here:



You just have to look with the right nomenclature to find this stuff. Chloramination is the word to describe water treated with chlorine and ammonia.



:vibe:
 
I get this part and can accept their findings.
“In one study, researchers continuously applied highly chlorinated water to soil for 126 days. Two days after they stopped, the soil microorganism populations reached pre-treatment levels at all depths of soil.”


Just under that confuses me. Maybe it's just not a well formed sentence in the later half.
This is just one example of how quickly microbes grow in soil and why adding things like biostimulants, humic acids and mycorrhizal fungi have no effect.
 
You can use that as sota as a guideline for watering. Plants in air pots, fabric pots, plastic pots and clay pots will all differ in water usage due to the pot's construction. If you have a mulch on top will have an effect on water usage. In my case, the amount of Humichar(a micronized 50/50 mix of humic acid and biochar) in the mix will help conserve water.
In other words, there's no set amount of watering that needs to be done for a set size of pot. It doesn't even take into account the plant's needs or the composition of the grow media..

Now, you need to scedule your feed when it's time to water.
Thanks for the reply. What do you mean about the feed? Do I feed nutrients every watering or every other?
 
This is just one example of how quickly microbes grow in soil and why adding things like biostimulants, humic acids and mycorrhizal fungi have no effect.

There are major underlying assumptions behind those statements and what is their definition of "Garden soil"?

We add microbes and fungi because the soils, coco and inert media we use are sanitized by heat killing all organisms or are sterile before we start. Many bagged products have these live microbes added before you buy it.

@WildBill I challenge you to do a side by side coco or rock wool grow, one with microbes, fungi, and bio-stimulants and one without. I have done this many years ago and I have never looked back. I would not even consider growing anything indoors or outside without bio-stimulants. I add Mykos to my rock wool at transplant. I added microbes many years ago to my outdoor gardens and because they never dry out. I do not need to reinoculate them.

:vibe:
 
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