Indoor Aero | LED | 36 Cream Caramel | *First Grow* | *First Journal*

[seymour-buds]

its a big ask to do hydro without prior knowledge of whqt to expect from a plants life cycle, when growing under l.e.d lights the plants will use different uptake of nutrients because the lights do trigger a different response in what the plants need to grow

its to late in the grow to start tripping balls about the leaves as they wont have much longer left to go, i havent read the whoel diary so i have no idea if you have hit them with pk boost or not as this could be why the buds didnt swell up as much as you hoped ??

ph wnats to be around 5.8 to 6.0 in flower as this is where the best nutrients becomes available for the plants in that stage of growth, more phorphorus and potassium become available at those ph ranges

also your ec might be to high but then again i dont know if you have been reading your plants well enough to determine wether they want mor of less feed ??

a good indication is that if the ec drops increase the feed , or if the ec rises then lower their feed , if the ec and ph remain stable then you are fulliy dialled in

because you are growing so many plants all from seed in the 1 resevoir your never gonna get all the plants happy FACT each one of them plants will require a different ec so you could well be under feeding some and over feeding others, growig in this type of enviroment is only really suited for clones where all the plants will require the exact same ec, i wouldnt try and shoot over 1.2 ec and just try to land this grow safely and put it down to a learning exprience and try and improve on your next 1

hope this helps

 

[Halfbloodprince]

My leaves look about the same. I'm growing DWC. Don't know what it is but it dosent seem to be affecting it much if any. It is my best plant. I'll def be watching your grow.

 

[Sauce Boss]

epsom salts just give magnesium and sulfur they don't have calcium but you should get calcium from your bloom nutes or other additives.

Have you seen the chart that shows what nutrients are available for the plants at what PH? if not then someone will post it for ye i got the one for soil or i'd post it.

yessum I have, which is why I came up with the theory to start at 5.6ph and let it rise to about 5.85 before lowering it again, so that the full range of available nutrients can be absorbed throughout the full ph range.



I just found my bottle of GH FloraMicro, which states this on the MSDS -

"The chemical identity of the compounds and exact proportions used in the mixture are a trade secret; however, they are derived from: ammonium molybdate, ammonium phosphate, calcium nitrate, cobalt sulfate, copper sulfate, iron DTPA, magnesium sulfate, manganese sulfate, potassium borate, potassium nitrate, potassium phosphate, and zinc sulfate."

Eh, Can I use this to hold me over till I order me some Cal/Mag? Like I mentioned in an earlier post, my lease is up at the end of February and I gotta be done with the grow, the initial dry, and start the cure before moving.

 

[Trifid]

Micro-nutrient deficiencies are common in DWC - this is usually related to clearing the reservoir too frequently. In reply to your post, I asked a few questions regarding your setup..

 

[Sauce Boss]

Micro-nutrient deficiencies are common in DWC - this is usually related to clearing the reservoir too frequently. In reply to your post, I asked a few questions regarding your setup..

You mean flushing the reservoir? I flush it every other Thursday.

You asked questions? Sorry, not seeing them.

 

[Sauce Boss]

ph wnats to be around 5.8 to 6.0 in flower as this is where the best nutrients becomes available for the plants in that stage of growth, more phorphorus and potassium become available at those ph ranges

I will definitely give this a try. I do want to mention though that the 2 part AN Connoisseur states on the side of the bottle that PH should be at 5.6. (just sayin)

Thank you, I value your advice.

 

[seymour-buds]

yeah but plants have sweet spots, depending at what stage of the grow you at depends on what ph you should be running and if you get a deficiency its just a case of moveing the ph a few points to compensate for it, like i said mate hydro growing is way more advanced than soil cause you have major control over the plants and you can dictate every aspect of the grow

in vegative phase of the life cycle some growers will run the res at 5.5 - 5.8 and in flower they will run 5.7-6.1 the reason for this is that the plants go through different nutrient requirements through their whole life cycle and wil require a different nutrient in each stage

here is a chart for you to look at, but it only helps if you know what the plants need in their different cycles of growth

 

[Trifid]

Yes keep the pH at 5.6 when using DWC as recommended by AN...

- There is some discoloration of the leaves that I am unable to understand. Can someone please take a look at the photos and help me diagnose and correct this, Or is this normal at this "stage"?

There is an indication of a possible micro-nutrient deficiency here (necrotic blotching)- namely Boron and possibly copper and manganese. To solve this, apply a full spectrum micro-nutrient feed with additional measures of cal/mg 100ppm periodically when changing the reservoir..

- Roughly how much longer does it look like I have till harvest from the looks of the photos? I need to figure this out so I can know when to start the flush.

It's still very early.. Your pictures indicate that the plants are still in early flowering. Over the next six weeks, as the clusters develop and swell, the internodal space will become occupied with floral density to form colas.

- EC is 1.4-1.6, is this ok, or no?


Your growing parameters are fine - although i'd agree with you regarding stabilizing the ambient temperature. Your EC and pH are in the optimum range for hydro-culture. How frequently are you changing/topping your reservoir? Are you adjusting the pH of your irrigation source?

 

[seymour-buds]

i would never run my res @ 5.6 for an entire grow the reason being is ill be locking out the uptake of phsphorus and potassium and also magnesium which only becomes availbale above ph 5.8

most growers like to have a ph swing from 5.5 - 6.0 so that the whole range of nutrients can be absorbed, its only when you become an advanced grower you can differentiate beteween the different range to use and in what stage of the grow

 

[Sauce Boss]

Now I see your questions Trifid.

*I bleach my tub thoroughly every other wednesday afternoon and fill it with water and let it dechlorinate for roughly 12-24 hours. I then PH adjust to 5.6-5.8 (usually, gonna try what Seymour said), after its adjusted and ready, I kill my pump, drain the res, which takes about 10 minutes, "rinse" the inside of the res out with a couple 5 gal buckets of water to get any leftover matter or nutrients that have "pooled up" where I don't have airstones (which I have 6 in there), then refill the water, and add nutes, then restabilize ph again, if necessary. That's my usual process.

As for adding water and/or nutes, I add when necessary. If I see my water level is getting low and my ppms are going up, I obviously dilute. If the ppms are going down but the water level is roughly the same, I will add a few ml's of nutes to bring it back up. It's always hovering within 750-800ppm and the EC was 1.2 up until last night when I bumped it to 1.4 by adding nutes due to ppms dropping to 700.