I hate to say it, but yeah those are not looking good. My guess is that the soil is either too hot or too sour.
Can you remind me what your slurry test results are?
Can you remind me what your slurry test results are?
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It was 6.3 PH and 0.8 EC, which seems reasonable right?
Perhaps they wer on the verge of stunting early from not having water and this is the damage done,
I guess I'll have to see what the new growth looks like in the next days.
I'm going to add 2 more plants, I was thinking about getting other soil but they only have Canna and Plagron at my local store
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Biobizz Lightmix has more than enough food for seedlings for at least a couple weeks. I think they will grow out of it.. looks like plain water is your best bet for now. This guy uses BLM with success... have a look at it:
Yeah, .8 should be fine, just cruise with pH adjusted water for a bit on the sketchy ones.
I've actually read that post before,
It looks so simple, unfortunately he doesn't describe the watering the first 3 weeks because it's probably too basic to mention.
he gives water when needed, but for me as a beginner its still difficult to understand when they need it,
Its easy to misunderstand when they say to let the soil dry before giving more water, my first thought was that it needed to dry around the roots,
but from this I've learned the roots should never be without moisture especially this young.
They're all sketchy lmao.
I havn't looked at them yet today, I'll post some pics later after the dark cycle.
I could try using PH 6.4 water, from what I think I've learned is that magnesium is slightly less available at 6.2 PH
But so many people start at 6.2 from seedlings I doubt its a real issue.
This is also recommended by Biobizz 6.2 seedling 6.3 mid veg 6.4 early flower 6.5 late flower
@Jaydot I've been thinking about your predicament a lot...let me totally restart my advice from square 1.
1) You should water your plants when the pot feels light. Grab a spare pot, fill it with medium, soak it to absolute death, like crazy amounts of runoff. That's what "fully watered" feels like, remember that weight. Before you water, heft your pots. If you go to pick them up and they feel surprisingly light, it's time to water. If they still feel somewhat hefty, you can wait. That's the first skill you need to learn as a grower, it's sort of like learning to cook a steak and know when it's done by poking it to feel if it's soft or springy. Soil probes and all that garbage don't work at all, just learn what a saturated pot feels like and what a dry pot feel like, and try to water before your pot feels so light that it's 'dry.'
2) BB should be fine through week three, and if it's not, there's nothing you can really do. Just water the plants as described above with pH adjusted water for a few weeks. When you see large fan leaves at the bottom of the pot start to barely get yellow, you know that the plant has exhausted nutrients in the root zone. Wait until the pot feels light enough to water, then mix up a very very weak batch (1/4 to 1/3 strength) and fertigate appropriately.
3) Alternate fertigating and watering like this: W-W-F-W-W-F-W-W-F. If you're only watering once or twice per week then that schedule should mostly work through flower. You may find that a fully blooming plant consumes way more water than a small seedling, so be aware of this and heft your pots frequently. You may find yourself surprised in mid flower that the plant drinks a whole 'heft' of water in one day, that's a good sign.
4) Once the plant stops growing vertically and is at its final height, switch to your blooming nutrient if you're using one. The plant will want vegetative nutrients until this point, even if it is covered in flowers. Once it's no longer growing vertically, the bloom nutrients will shift the bias of NPK towards a ratio more appropriate for fruitation.
5) As it nears senescence, the plant will stop taking up water and you'll find yourself needing to water less frequently. It's important that you continue hefting the pot so that you don't accidentally over water in the last few weeks.
1) You should water your plants when the pot feels light. Grab a spare pot, fill it with medium, soak it to absolute death, like crazy amounts of runoff. That's what "fully watered" feels like, remember that weight. Before you water, heft your pots. If you go to pick them up and they feel surprisingly light, it's time to water. If they still feel somewhat hefty, you can wait. That's the first skill you need to learn as a grower, it's sort of like learning to cook a steak and know when it's done by poking it to feel if it's soft or springy. Soil probes and all that garbage don't work at all, just learn what a saturated pot feels like and what a dry pot feel like, and try to water before your pot feels so light that it's 'dry.'
2) BB should be fine through week three, and if it's not, there's nothing you can really do. Just water the plants as described above with pH adjusted water for a few weeks. When you see large fan leaves at the bottom of the pot start to barely get yellow, you know that the plant has exhausted nutrients in the root zone. Wait until the pot feels light enough to water, then mix up a very very weak batch (1/4 to 1/3 strength) and fertigate appropriately.
3) Alternate fertigating and watering like this: W-W-F-W-W-F-W-W-F. If you're only watering once or twice per week then that schedule should mostly work through flower. You may find that a fully blooming plant consumes way more water than a small seedling, so be aware of this and heft your pots frequently. You may find yourself surprised in mid flower that the plant drinks a whole 'heft' of water in one day, that's a good sign.
4) Once the plant stops growing vertically and is at its final height, switch to your blooming nutrient if you're using one. The plant will want vegetative nutrients until this point, even if it is covered in flowers. Once it's no longer growing vertically, the bloom nutrients will shift the bias of NPK towards a ratio more appropriate for fruitation.
5) As it nears senescence, the plant will stop taking up water and you'll find yourself needing to water less frequently. It's important that you continue hefting the pot so that you don't accidentally over water in the last few weeks.
When your pots feel light, how much water would you give them at the early stage? Enough for the pots to feel heavy again?
I use 11l pots so I'm guessing 500ml won't be enough for that. How much do you generally use?
I assume we start of with a fully saturated pot, plant the seed, then water again after taking of the dome somewhat 1 week after planting seed.
But at this point I started with 50ml because I kept reading you can't overwater seedlings, seeing people just water with a spray bottle...
I also let the pot dry out 3 days before planting a germinated seed, perhaps it was already to dry to begin with, after that I gave 50 - 100ml every 1-2 days, but the more I think of it now, it simply can't be enough to reach the roots.
(why is there so much information on how to water plants where they tell you to use small amounts of water lol)
I got the Biobizz nutrient line ( Root juice, Bio-Grow, Bio-Bloom, Top Max, Bio Heaven, Alg-A-Mic, Acti Vera )
I believe only Grow Bloom and Top Max contain NPK, would we give lower strength of non npk nutrients aswell?
When I asked Biobizz what they advice for auto's, they said to use Lightmix and follow All-mix schedule.
Nutrient-Schedule-EN-2020.pdf (biobizz.com) (but I was still planning to decrease the NPK nutrients)
They also advice to feed this every 3 days.
Again this subject is unclear without experience as you can find people giving 100% strength of everything (or more) and still get good results on autos.
Sorry for all the questions, thanks for helping <3
I would water about a cup or two, then wait a minute. You want to see a small amount of runoff, not a river, just enough to know that some amount of the water is washing away the root exudates and excess minerals that build up in containers. You should never wait until your medium is bone dry, if you let it get dry it will become hydrophobic and potentially runoff much more heavily without actually getting re-saturated. Basically just water a bit, wait, see runoff stop. Don't see runoff, water half-again as much and wait another few minutes. Some folks water, wait an hour, then finish watering until they see runoff. This gives the medium time to absorb the fertigation, then you come back and really make sure it got a little flush. Roots give off waste products that can be harmful to plant health, that's really what causes "rootbound" symptoms. It's not actually that the roots can't expand into the medium because they can fully colonize a container to the point where it's almost all roots. The real issue is that then those roots sit in their own 'piss' and get unhealthy...that doesn't happen if you water properly OR use a huge pot that gives them room to spread out.
Don't think that way, just focus on weight. Start off with a fully saturated medium, plant a seed, water it when the pot feels light. Period.
I don't know much about their fertilizer products other than to say I'm sort of a hater because of the results I'm seeing in the infirmary lately. If I were experimenting with a new nutrient lineup, I would only purchase their base fertilizer without any additional crap, too many variables to worry about without a clear reason to do so. If their base fertilizer doesn't grow healthy plants, I would move on to another product line whose base fertilizer grows healthy plants. Once you have a strategy to grow healthy plants with a base fertilizer and you feel the need to experiment, I would gradually add in one additional product at a time and gauge whether it improves plant health or not. If not, I would cut it out and go back to a base regimen.
Any fertilizer company whose base NPK products don't grow plants should be avoided.
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