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horizontal root branching and pruning but the horizontal branching is the key, especially in Earthbox, IMO.
Mephisto Genetics White Crack and Kis Organics Soil
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horizontal root branching and pruning but the horizontal branching is the key, especially in Earthbox, IMO.
slowandeasy
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They had a buy 1 get 1 free sale and I bough 2 trays a while back. The smaller ones might work good for clones? But direct planting is better for Auto Seeds for me with my new set up.@slowandeasy
these might work better than the larger start pots I use, less time in these and easy to pop out ..... they even have smaller if you like .....
18-Cell Tray
Cell Dimensions - 3.25" X 3.25" X 4". Cell Volume - 25 Cubic Inches. First and most critical step toward creating a fibrous root system. Promotes horizontal root branching. Greater root tip surface means greater efficiency in water and nutrient absorption. Each individual tray comes with a 10 X...myrootmaker.com
like this 32 cell or even a 60 cell unit
32-Cell Tray
Cell Dimensions - 2.25" X 2.25" X 4". Cell Volume - 11 Cubic Inches. First and most critical step toward creating a fibrous root system. Promotes horizontal root branching. Greater root tip surface means greater efficiency in water and nutrient absorption. Each individual tray comes with a 10 X...myrootmaker.com
slowandeasy
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I think your memory is not accurate brother. I never once said they came out hard, infact just the opposite...I told you how to do it without an issue. No need to cut the rootmakers at all, they poped out super easy! You can reuse them over and over, dont cut them dude, its a waste. I also never said I had Transplant shock with them. The only time I had an issue with soil transplant was the first seed I started in a cup, because I attempted to early. I did say that it takes 3 to 4 days to get going after trwnsplant. That is not shock, that is normal. So when you have a plant half the size at day 12 and then it takes 3 to 4 days to get going, you are already a week behind in growth. Please dont take this the wrong way, but maybe you should try directly planting? I dont need to even try another rootmaker. Yes, they work and make a good rootsystem. But the growth of directly planting in a Junior is superior if you have the means to do so. Juniors are not big and I have take used soil out to reammend. They soil is covered in roots from top to bottom with cup method. Rootmaker makes better roots than the cup 100%. But the size at day 11 cannot compare in my Directly planted Junior to a cup or Rootmaker at day 11. Neither will be even close to what i have in front of me now. I will go take a pic once my Phone charges. Peace, slow
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I remember you thinking it would come out slick but I don’t recall you mentioning after the transplant but I do recall the couple day slow grow period .... I will try direct but my mind sees the horizontal planter and the nice fit with rootmakers - so round we go - I give direct a go but I won’t even be growing again for few months. Best, MOB
slowandeasy
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Yes I knew that when I pushed the sides inward on all directions and the starter mix came loose very earily that they would transplant without any trouble. You push gently back and forth and then turn the plant Upside-down like a sand castle. Plops out perfectly. But none of the soil plants that I have started loom like the size of directly planyed on day 11, plus they tske a few days to really take off after transplant. I understand your theory on root production, and Rootmakers are great for horizontal planting.
Autos are a different type of plant, that have a built in internal clock. If plant A is a week ahead early on, most likely it will finish fast and potentially be the large and healthy. If plant B has a nice root system, but is physically a week behind in growth upon transplant, it will most likely take longer. If plant C is transplanted late and it gets hungry or rootbound, it can reduce size in veg and flow, yield, and even make them flower sooner than desired.
If I didnt trust the consistent environment that the Juniors create for rootmaking, direct planting might not be as good. But when I see the root systems I am seeing upon harvest and tons of healthybwhite Roots in my feeding tube, I know the Juniors are pretty full of roots in every direction so far. However if you are going to transplant, I do fully endorse the Rootmakers over a cup. The problem I see is that even tbo the rootmakers prune the roots. Even minor rootbounding can slow a plants growth, and Autos do better when never slowed down. Really they both work and people should use what is best for them. But time is your enemy with Autos, so the fastest growth is your friend. Day 11 Grape Rolex 1 and 2. Imagine Plant 1 in 3 to 4 more days in the Junior. Now imagine transplant plant 2 tonight and then 3 to 4 more days before settling in. Gonna be a big gap. Plant 1 has been eating food for a few days already by the looks of her rapid growth. I will take pics in 4 days so we can compare. Peace, slow
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oh man...haha ! good ol' aurora indica.... my first seed purchase.. from the seed boutique.. circa 2000 i believe..
potent indica..
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Big difference .....
Results are exactly as expected out of a cup seedling planter, roots are going in a circle inside that starter cup ..... in four days the Junior planted seed will be even further ahead.
Peace,
MOB
slowandeasy
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Yes, my point exactly. A Rootmaker will be smaller than directly planted at day 11 as well. Somewhere size wise between Cup and Directly planted. Highly doubtful that a Rootmaker would catch up to the directly planted. Time is time and even a few day slow down from transplanting will effect its growth. This cup is very small, so you can see that the 5oz cups will def slow your plant down and reduce its size by a lot.
This just goes to prove my other theory! The Ole No Trsnsplant method where people bury their solo cups vs transplanting properly. No offense to snyone, but it is such stupid method. I literrally cringe when I see it, which is a lot on this site. If anyone thinks trapping your roots in a cup with only the bottom cut out wont effect the outcome of your plant...you are out of your mind. You will always see someone trying to defend its usesge, and claim it doesnt effect the plant negitively. Bull cr@p! Roots want to grow out of the cup in all directions and can only grown downwards in the cup, which will slow down the plant growth above ground. Resulting in smaller plants than if you dona proper transplant. The only way that method is better is if you are purpously trying to make a strain grow smaller on purpose. Roots want ton spread out and on Autos they will slow down if rootbounded in a cup, Even with half the cup removed, its not enough. Direct trsnsplanting is far superior, easy to do, and your plant should have a much larger rootsystem at the end. Peace, slow
This just goes to prove my other theory! The Ole No Trsnsplant method where people bury their solo cups vs transplanting properly. No offense to snyone, but it is such stupid method. I literrally cringe when I see it, which is a lot on this site. If anyone thinks trapping your roots in a cup with only the bottom cut out wont effect the outcome of your plant...you are out of your mind. You will always see someone trying to defend its usesge, and claim it doesnt effect the plant negitively. Bull cr@p! Roots want to grow out of the cup in all directions and can only grown downwards in the cup, which will slow down the plant growth above ground. Resulting in smaller plants than if you dona proper transplant. The only way that method is better is if you are purpously trying to make a strain grow smaller on purpose. Roots want ton spread out and on Autos they will slow down if rootbounded in a cup, Even with half the cup removed, its not enough. Direct trsnsplanting is far superior, easy to do, and your plant should have a much larger rootsystem at the end. Peace, slow
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One mystery is solved, I believe ..... Talking about the roots inside the reservoir .....
I have NO roots in any of the reservoirs, none zero / zip - I’ve looked and just don’t see any - so I checked Sam’s box and saw no evidence of roots in her reservoir either - reason I suspect is there are no tap roots on the transplants, all starts were from rootmaker pots ......
If you direct plant or start in a solo cup a tap root is formed - the tap root travels down thru the dirt and then thru the platform hole thru the reservoir .... the horizontal root growth comes once the tap root hits the bottom and spreads towards the drain hole ......
The experiment currently underway involves a solo cup transplant that will have a tap root, not a pruned root system, thus I expect the solo cup roots will do the same and it will never catch up to the direct plant .....
Until a side by side with multiple direct samples verses rootmaker (not solo cup) are preformed I’m sticking to my belief RootMakers are a better option for an Earthbox grow.
Peace,
MOB
I have NO roots in any of the reservoirs, none zero / zip - I’ve looked and just don’t see any - so I checked Sam’s box and saw no evidence of roots in her reservoir either - reason I suspect is there are no tap roots on the transplants, all starts were from rootmaker pots ......
If you direct plant or start in a solo cup a tap root is formed - the tap root travels down thru the dirt and then thru the platform hole thru the reservoir .... the horizontal root growth comes once the tap root hits the bottom and spreads towards the drain hole ......
The experiment currently underway involves a solo cup transplant that will have a tap root, not a pruned root system, thus I expect the solo cup roots will do the same and it will never catch up to the direct plant .....
Until a side by side with multiple direct samples verses rootmaker (not solo cup) are preformed I’m sticking to my belief RootMakers are a better option for an Earthbox grow.
Peace,
MOB
slowandeasy
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The Rootmakers are getting a chance now instead of direct planting. Per my own rules I will not start seeds below 80F environment. We are having a cold snap and my room is only 75F. I started soaking a couple of Magic Cookies yesterday when they arrived. Only 1 was popped open, it had a tiny tail. The other wasnt popped open yet. So with a combonation if low temps and not opening of 1 seed I opted to use Rootmakers on these 2 beans. I will clear out my smaller tent and put them in there with the heating mat at 85F.
So a bit of bad news. The 5 oz cup seedling started to look really unhappy overnight. Today is day 12. I would say she started to look a little unhappy a few days ago, thought it was just thirsty. But its from rootbounding and not enough soil to keep it happy for 12 days under Cobs. So I will keep a close eye for any signs of hunger in the Rootmaker seedlings around day 9. If so, the starter soil is weak that I am using. I already know it is weak, its starter soil, but 5oz cups are too small for keeping happy for 12 days. Once they get hungry, the cobs can yellow them fast. I see paleness from less than 24 hours ago. This will absolutely effect the size and yield, and I will never use a 5oz cup to start Soil seeds ever again. In coco its fine, cause i feed them nutes, but not good for soil. Lesson learned, if you do use 5oz cups, trsnsplant by day 8!
Regardless, my goal is to have them transplanted by day 10 to 12 with Rootmakers to avoid any slow downs at all. My Rootmakers are the ones that have 18 in a flat. I am wondering which size would be best for Juniors? I could almost see adding a little Kis Soil to the Rootmakers to feed them a little while in them. Actually I just had a GREAT idea! Not sure why I didnt think of it before?! I have a bunch of Biotabs here. I can crush them up and add a little to my starter mix to have a lttle organic food in the mix! I will add a sprinkle of Biotab dust on the top and spray with water with my spray bottle once she is up for 5 dsys or so. Im gonna go start 2 more seeds right now. Now that I have my Biotab idea, I am gonna add the tiny bit of Crushed Biotabs into the starter mix before planting the seeds. Until our cold snap goes away and I fire up my 4x4 that is drying stuff now, my seed starting temps are just too low to directly plant. Better safe than sorry on these brand new seeds. I feel more comfortable starting in smaller pots when temps are this cold outside, because it is the worst time to be low on temps. Once they are up and have some roots going good, temps can be lower than they are initally. But not having a nice tail when planting always makes me want to start in smaller pots to keep an eye on development and have nice steady warm temps. The good part is I can start 2 more seeds right away and keep in the same tent at proper temps til ready to move! If I didnt use my heating mat, it is just too damn cold right now. Once my atuff is dry, i will fire up the 4x4 and move some stuff into it. This will allow for warmer temps in my room and a good space to move all 4 plants once transplanted. They wont need 85F then. Once those 4 are transplanted hopefully the cold snap will be gone and I can start one directly for a true side by side. My plants so far have had a decent Root System under and into the Rez. We will see if the directly planted one has a good root system below as well once done. I do use Orca, which may help eith that root development.
However I honestly am concerned about having that much roots below. Could cause them to be hungrier sooner or grow different because of Water roots just soaking in Tap water? Its totally possible in theory that it could. If the Rootmakers keep the Roots out of the reservior completely, then it could theoretically differntly. If the root system was bigger below the rez line, those roots would be acting more hydro roots. Dont really want a bunch of water roots in soil. So we will see if the Rootmakers keep the roots above the rez in my house. And how Directly planting does as well. Damn cold weather is not ideal for seedlings, so your Rootmakers will get a fair shot on these 4. Gonna go drop 2 more seeds now. Peace, slow
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