Mephisto Genetics White Crack and Kis Organics Soil

See, thats why I like Organics and Autos too. They finish faster than my Coco plants. I am all about that! I do Autos for speed and Quality. Taking 90 days is dumb for an Auto. I like 8-10 week strains.
Exactly!! The Blue Microverse more Blue Magoo leaning will still finish in 62 days. Perfect and still produce about 80-100 g. I like to get it done in less than 75 days... much less
 
I am pretty much on the same page with Tad regarding not watering teas into the soil, unless you have a problem.
I have moved this direction with my thoughts on teas. I only use water in the soil. I use teas only as foliars. If I want to add something like kelp or malted barley powder, I mix it with wormcastings or vermicompost and top dress it. Regular compost or leaf mold work great to mix with too. My thinking is if it’s already in my soil mix, I have it covered. I also feel it’s best not to screw with the soil pH or microbe life by adding teas. In healthy soil, the plant will communicate with the microbes through the plant root exudates, and set up an delicate balanced exchange.
I haven’t watered in a tea for several rounds now and have been super happy with the results. Plus it’s even less work. In addition to not using teas in the soil, I have also dialed back the amount of nutrients I add to a soil mix.
What you want to do to make a good living soil last is top dress dry leaves. Gnats won’t bother with dry leaves, and it’s great food for the soil. If you don’t want to bring in stuff from outside, the big fan leaves from canna work great. Just let them get crispy before mulching.
Hth if ya want to know more I could go on for a while.
Cheers
Os
Thanks, do you suggest worms? Tad said not needed. Will try without. I am bottom feeding water. So I will just try it out and see what happens!
 
Exactly!! The Blue Microverse more Blue Magoo leaning will still finish in 62 days. Perfect and still produce about 80-100 g. I like to get it done in less than 75 days... much less
Nice! What do you use for Calmag and how often? I know Cobs make plants want more, hoping the large container will do it by itself. @Roasty McToasty do you do anything bro?
 
Nice! What do you use for Calmag and how often? I know Cobs make plants want more, hoping the large container will do it by itself. @Roasty McToasty do you do anything bro?
I use General Organics Cal-Mag as it is 1-0-0. Many of the Cal-Mag supplements are quite high in Nitrogen. Since my soil runs hot... I want as little Nitrogen as possible. Typically add 5ml. per gallon from the start. I have bumped it to 8ml for the first 2-3 wks if flower. I always stop two weeks before chop... as it is useless then .
 
Up and going .... congrats .....

Just add water and EMI / mammoth p for at least two- three weeks ..... Make sure underside of cover has condensation on it, if not spray water on underside every so often ...... you want the wicking action to condense on underside of plastic so as to wick down thru your mulch and top amendments ......

Tea after 3-4 weeks ok but just top feed - do not add to water holding area just top feed a quart or so ...... You can experiment with adding teas to the tank but remember you should be constantly adding water so teas will be diluted- I would be cautious overdoing at first, you can dial in as you experience ..... I added mammoth P and EMI and slight amounts of molasses and some Thrive.n ..... But pretty much most food came from worm castings / compost and some kelp and was baked into soil already ..... one thing remember the plant will take what food it wants but auto flowers don’t like real heavy fertilization ......

FYI ..... Cubic Foot of Soil equals 7.5 gallons add in your compost / castings and mulch on top you have over 8 - maybe even 9 gallons gallons of growing matter, so more than enough “dirt”.
 
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Thanks, do you suggest worms? Tad said not needed. Will try without. I am bottom feeding water. So I will just try it out and see what happens!
I always say yes to worms, but no not needed. If you apply worm castings, there is a good chance you will have a cocoon or 2 in there, and they will supply a few worms. There should be plenty of life in the soil without worms.
I run wicking setups a little differently. I don’t feel they work well with just bottom watering (unless they are real short). It’s super important to keep the layer of soil just below the surface moist. It’s where the most life is. I top water, and let the run off flow into the res. Then if I think I need more water in the res, I add some more.
I start with just a thin layer of water in the res when plants are small. The thin layer should just about disappear in a day. Then I just maintain that, in between top watering.
With a fresh sprout in a 10 gal, I won’t top water for around a week, and just maintain the thin layer in the res. By keeping the layer thin, it will help you control accidental overwatering of a young plant.
When plants get big, I top water more often, and maintain a deeper water level in the res.
Another option to top watering is misting the soil. But it’s way more work.
After ya make your first run in this soil, remind me and I will gladly help guide ya thru either a notill cycle, or recycle/reamending with this soil.

Cheers
Os
 
Up and going .... congrats .....

Just add water and EMI / mammoth p for at least two- three weeks ..... Make sure underside of cover has condensation on it, if not spray water on underside every so often ...... you want the wicking action to condense on underside of plastic so as to wick down thru your mulch and top amendments ......

Tea after 3-4 weeks ok but just top feed - do not add to water holding area just top feed a quart or so ...... You can experiment with adding teas to the tank but remember you should be constantly adding water so teas will be diluted- I would be cautious overdoing at first, you can dial in as you experience ..... I added mammoth P and EMI and slight amounts of molasses and some Thrive.n ..... But pretty much most food came from worm castings / compost and some kelp and was baked into soil already ..... one thing remember the plant will take what food it wants but auto flowers don’t like real heavy fertilization ......

FYI ..... Cubic Foot of Soil equals 7.5 gallons add in your compost / castings and mulch on top you have over 8 - maybe even 9 gallons gallons of growing matter, so more than enough “dirt”.
We was a writing in stereo. Same time!
 
I always say yes to worms, but no not needed. If you apply worm castings, there is a good chance you will have a cocoon or 2 in there, and they will supply a few worms. There should be plenty of life in the soil without worms.
I run wicking setups a little differently. I don’t feel they work well with just bottom watering (unless they are real short). It’s super important to keep the layer of soil just below the surface moist. It’s where the most life is. I top water, and let the run off flow into the res. Then if I think I need more water in the res, I add some more.
I start with just a thin layer of water in the res when plants are small. The thin layer should just about disappear in a day. Then I just maintain that, in between top watering.
With a fresh sprout in a 10 gal, I won’t top water for around a week, and just maintain the thin layer in the res. By keeping the layer thin, it will help you control accidental overwatering of a young plant.
When plants get big, I top water more often, and maintain a deeper water level in the res.
Another option to top watering is misting the soil. But it’s way more work.
After ya make your first run in this soil, remind me and I will gladly help guide ya thru either a notill cycle, or recycle/reamending with this soil.

Cheers
Os
These Earthbox Juniors are not tall at all. Much more long and rectangular. I think they will wick well. I will keep a thin layer of water in the Rez. I don't think I will have to top water that often. I am loading up the Earthbox tomorrow. I will spray the soil in layers and fill the Rez up til it runs out a little. Just the first time for a while, to get the initial wicking going. Then minimal watering for a week or Two. I would rather add a little bit at a time vs flood it. I will just add 1 or 2 Solo cups in the Rez each day, for a week. That is not much. Then slowly step it up as it grows.
 
Up and going .... congrats .....

Just add water and EMI / mammoth p for at least two- three weeks ..... Make sure underside of cover has condensation on it, if not spray water on underside every so often ...... you want the wicking action to condense on underside of plastic so as to wick down thru your mulch and top amendments ......

Tea after 3-4 weeks ok but just top feed - do not add to water holding area just top feed a quart or so ...... You can experiment with adding teas to the tank but remember you should be constantly adding water so teas will be diluted- I would be cautious overdoing at first, you can dial in as you experience ..... I added mammoth P and EMI and slight amounts of molasses and some Thrive.n ..... But pretty much most food came from worm castings / compost and some kelp and was baked into soil already ..... one thing remember the plant will take what food it wants but auto flowers don’t like real heavy fertilization ......

FYI ..... Cubic Foot of Soil equals 7.5 gallons add in your compost / castings and mulch on top you have over 8 - maybe even 9 gallons gallons of growing matter, so more than enough “dirt”.
How would you add the EWC? That is all that I am adding, if any when fill the Earthbox tomorrow. Do I mix any in right away Or do I wait? Also, Tad told me to run a Water only run with my first plant. So I have a baseline. No Mammoth P. Although he says it most likely does help, he recommends using it alm full strength if you do use it. I am like Tad and believe a Water only first try is wise. Then i know what to expect with ZERO additional anything. If I add Mammoth P, it will be on the second or Third plant that I try. I want to ease into it and see what the soil does once by itself.
 
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