what the heck happened

[Cliffbuds]

Or a potassium...

Possibly, I’ve never had a potassium deficiency. So, without upsetting anyone, just to paint a picture of the problem, the uniform pale/yellowing leaves from the top to the bottom of the plant, including the single blades leaves, indicate a nitrogen deficiency.

The rust spots, like I’ve had in the past, I’ve always chalked to a phosphorus deficiency.

You yourself suspect a potassium deficiency also, which I am not familiar with. All three of those issues could possibly be solved with a stronger feed of biobizz which contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Your plant looks great overall, nice shape and plenty of budsites. They will start packing the weight on so will demand more food. Try and get some citric acid and stop the vinegar, I’ve even used lemon juice when I grew with organic bottled nutrients

 

[shumway]

am i doing it right?
View attachment 1263431

although I tested it with tap water wich is 8.0 ph, so 7 is to high?

Don't put your probe in soil like that and don't use tap water Should be using distilled water for slurry tests so soil can naturally buffer itself and not have to work against anything else.

Also for slurry tests do a 1 to 1 ratio of soil and distilled then let set for at least 1/2 hour (i personally go 1hr or more) then drain off water with a coffee filter etc and test the water that way,Saves from gunking up or possibly breaking the probe as these ones are meant for liquid only

 

[Arthur]

Ok.. If you say so... Ive been working this infirmary thread for 2 yrs now... I grow and document healthy plants from start to finish.. I know a locked out/over fed plant when I see one. The bad/incorrect info going around is at a high right now. So I'll just bow out of this thread and let you help him correct his issues.

Been at this over a decade, when Proph speaks I listen. He's shot me down a time or two in the last couple years... and been right.

 

[Proph]

Possibly, I’ve never had a potassium deficiency. So, without upsetting anyone, just to paint a picture of the problem, the uniform pale/yellowing leaves from the top to the bottom of the plant, including the single blades leaves, indicate a nitrogen deficiency.

The rust spots, like I’ve had in the past, I’ve always chalked to a phosphorus deficiency.

You yourself suspect a potassium deficiency also, which I am not familiar with. All three of those issues could possibly be solved with a stronger feed of biobizz which contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Your plant looks great overall, nice shape and plenty of budsites. They will start packing the weight on so will demand more food. Try and get some citric acid and stop the vinegar, I’ve even used lemon juice when I grew with organic bottled nutrients

Im not trying to be difficult. But it's a delicate line to walk for me. New growers come to the infirmary for help...its it's hard for the people who work this thread to respond or help once everyone else has given their opinions, or has told a new grower that their plant looks fine...

Why would you add more N, P, and K if the issue is K? Same with P.. Why add N and K if the issue is P? How does a plant become K or P deficient in 40 days when grown in a heavily amended soil, and while being fed a liquid nute (bio grow) with an NPK of 4-3-6? If the plant needs P, wouldn't you just add a source of P instead of adding more N and K than P? You do know that too much of one single nutrient can lock out several other nutrients right?

Fish Mix is mainly a feed for the microbe life in the soil.. Which in turn breakdown organic matter and feeds the plant. That's why you were able to use it without Bio-Grow.. Fish Mix feeds the soil, which in turn feeds the plant. It's one or the other, bio grow (4-3-6) or fish mix (5-1-4).. But not both. Even the bio bizz website says this..

The plant does not look great, and if the issue or issues aren't found and resolved soon, the plant won't have any green leaves left come mid flower. Every sick leaf affects yield, flavor, plant growth ect...GrowingMicro is right to be concerned and to have posted in the infirmary for help. Now he has to cipher through all of these suggestions and decide which ones he feels are correct. Feels like the poor guy is getting the run around.. He's checking the ph of soil (which is pre-buffered, and 99% of time is never an issue), being adviced to feed the plant more NPK thinking it only need P or K ect... While only one person has mentioned the fact that a spoonful of unstable vinegar was added to a gallon of water to adjust the ph, before the nutes were added to the water.. That alone could be a toxic mixture.. There are soo many possible causes for these issues.. Under feeding, to me, just simply based off of the soil used and feeding routine alone, is not one of them.. Deficiencies do not automatically mean to add more nutrients.. But I digress.

 

[growingmicro]

Im not trying to be difficult. But it's a delicate line to walk for me. New growers come to the infirmary for help...its it's hard for the people who work this thread to respond or help once everyone else has given their opinions, or has told a new grower that their plant looks fine...

Why would you add more N, P, and K if the issue is K? Same with P.. Why add N and K if the issue is P? How does a plant become K or P deficient in 40 days when grown in a heavily amended soil, and while being fed a liquid nute (bio grow) with an NPK of 4-3-6? If the plant needs P, wouldn't you just add a source of P instead of adding more N and K than P? You do know that too much of one single nutrient can lock out several other nutrients right?

Fish Mix is mainly a feed for the microbe life in the soil.. Which in turn breakdown organic matter and feeds the plant. That's why you were able to use it without Bio-Grow.. Fish Mix feeds the soil, which in turn feeds the plant. It's one or the other, bio grow (4-3-6) or fish mix (5-1-4).. But not both. Even the bio bizz website says this..

The plant does not look great, and if the issue or issues aren't found and resolved soon, the plant won't have any green leaves left come mid flower. Every sick leaf affects yield, flavor, plant growth ect...GrowingMicro is right to be concerned and to have posted in the infirmary for help. Now he has to cipher through all of these suggestions and decide which ones he feels are correct. Feels like the poor guy is getting the run around.. He's checking the ph of soil (which is pre-buffered, and 99% of time is never an issue), being adviced to feed the plant more NPK thinking it only need P or K ect... While only one person has mentioned the fact that a spoonful of unstable vinegar was added to a gallon of water to adjust the ph, before the nutes were added to the water.. That alone could be a toxic mixture.. There are soo many possible causes for these issues.. Under feeding, to me, just simply based off of the soil used and feeding routine alone, is not one of them.. Deficiencies do not automatically mean to add more nutrients.. But I digress.

Ok makes sense so what should I do now?
What steps can I take to identify the real problem?

 

[Cliffbuds]

Im not trying to be difficult. But it's a delicate line to walk for me. New growers come to the infirmary for help...its it's hard for the people who work this thread to respond or help once everyone else has given their opinions, or has told a new grower that their plant looks fine...

Why would you add more N, P, and K if the issue is K? Same with P.. Why add N and K if the issue is P? How does a plant become K or P deficient in 40 days when grown in a heavily amended soil, and while being fed a liquid nute (bio grow) with an NPK of 4-3-6? If the plant needs P, wouldn't you just add a source of P instead of adding more N and K than P? You do know that too much of one single nutrient can lock out several other nutrients right?

Fish Mix is mainly a feed for the microbe life in the soil.. Which in turn breakdown organic matter and feeds the plant. That's why you were able to use it without Bio-Grow.. Fish Mix feeds the soil, which in turn feeds the plant. It's one or the other, bio grow (4-3-6) or fish mix (5-1-4).. But not both. Even the bio bizz website says this..

The plant does not look great, and if the issue or issues aren't found and resolved soon, the plant won't have any green leaves left come mid flower. Every sick leaf affects yield, flavor, plant growth ect...GrowingMicro is right to be concerned and to have posted in the infirmary for help. Now he has to cipher through all of these suggestions and decide which ones he feels are correct. Feels like the poor guy is getting the run around.. He's checking the ph of soil (which is pre-buffered, and 99% of time is never an issue), being adviced to feed the plant more NPK thinking it only need P or K ect... While only one person has mentioned the fact that a spoonful of unstable vinegar was added to a gallon of water to adjust the ph, before the nutes were added to the water.. That alone could be a toxic mixture.. There are soo many possible causes for these issues.. Under feeding, to me, just simply based off of the soil used and feeding routine alone, is not one of them.. Deficiencies do not automatically mean to add more nutrients.. But I digress.

Yeah fair enough, like I said I’m new here and happy to stop posting in the infirmary. I’m not an expert, always learning new things and dealing with new issues every grow. I haven’t used Allmix, however I have used other strong soils, amended with guano too and I’ve never found them to last longer than 4 weeks feeding.

Look I’ll happily stop posting in the infirmary, you’re obviously well respected round here and here’s me only just turning up. I’ve only just started posting in a forum. I’ve had to figure all my own grow problems out myself, my gut feeling that it was a general hunger for everything. You must agree that every single leaf on that plant is pale. That to me is a sign of hunger. I might be completely wrong, if I am then I apologise to the OP. All the posts were straight onto the ph lockout theory which I’ve had myself, using old timers bloom and my plants looked different to microgrowers

 

[Cliffbuds]

Im not trying to be difficult. But it's a delicate line to walk for me. New growers come to the infirmary for help...its it's hard for the people who work this thread to respond or help once everyone else has given their opinions, or has told a new grower that their plant looks fine...

Why would you add more N, P, and K if the issue is K? Same with P.. Why add N and K if the issue is P? How does a plant become K or P deficient in 40 days when grown in a heavily amended soil, and while being fed a liquid nute (bio grow) with an NPK of 4-3-6? If the plant needs P, wouldn't you just add a source of P instead of adding more N and K than P? You do know that too much of one single nutrient can lock out several other nutrients right?

Fish Mix is mainly a feed for the microbe life in the soil.. Which in turn breakdown organic matter and feeds the plant. That's why you were able to use it without Bio-Grow.. Fish Mix feeds the soil, which in turn feeds the plant. It's one or the other, bio grow (4-3-6) or fish mix (5-1-4).. But not both. Even the bio bizz website says this..

The plant does not look great, and if the issue or issues aren't found and resolved soon, the plant won't have any green leaves left come mid flower. Every sick leaf affects yield, flavor, plant growth ect...GrowingMicro is right to be concerned and to have posted in the infirmary for help. Now he has to cipher through all of these suggestions and decide which ones he feels are correct. Feels like the poor guy is getting the run around.. He's checking the ph of soil (which is pre-buffered, and 99% of time is never an issue), being adviced to feed the plant more NPK thinking it only need P or K ect... While only one person has mentioned the fact that a spoonful of unstable vinegar was added to a gallon of water to adjust the ph, before the nutes were added to the water.. That alone could be a toxic mixture.. There are soo many possible causes for these issues.. Under feeding, to me, just simply based off of the soil used and feeding routine alone, is not one of them.. Deficiencies do not automatically mean to add more nutrients.. But I digress.

Also, when I did use biobizz it was fishmix only. No bloom at all. NPK 5-1-4 as you said. To be honest, if the grow is 4-3-6. I’d use that on its own, that is a decent ratio by itself in my opinion.

 

[Fermented_Fruitz]

Im not trying to be difficult. But it's a delicate line to walk for me. New growers come to the infirmary for help...its it's hard for the people who work this thread to respond or help once everyone else has given their opinions, or has told a new grower that their plant looks fine...

Why would you add more N, P, and K if the issue is K? Same with P.. Why add N and K if the issue is P? How does a plant become K or P deficient in 40 days when grown in a heavily amended soil, and while being fed a liquid nute (bio grow) with an NPK of 4-3-6? If the plant needs P, wouldn't you just add a source of P instead of adding more N and K than P? You do know that too much of one single nutrient can lock out several other nutrients right?

Fish Mix is mainly a feed for the microbe life in the soil.. Which in turn breakdown organic matter and feeds the plant. That's why you were able to use it without Bio-Grow.. Fish Mix feeds the soil, which in turn feeds the plant. It's one or the other, bio grow (4-3-6) or fish mix (5-1-4).. But not both. Even the bio bizz website says this..

The plant does not look great, and if the issue or issues aren't found and resolved soon, the plant won't have any green leaves left come mid flower. Every sick leaf affects yield, flavor, plant growth ect...GrowingMicro is right to be concerned and to have posted in the infirmary for help. Now he has to cipher through all of these suggestions and decide which ones he feels are correct. Feels like the poor guy is getting the run around.. He's checking the ph of soil (which is pre-buffered, and 99% of time is never an issue), being adviced to feed the plant more NPK thinking it only need P or K ect... While only one person has mentioned the fact that a spoonful of unstable vinegar was added to a gallon of water to adjust the ph, before the nutes were added to the water.. That alone could be a toxic mixture.. There are soo many possible causes for these issues.. Under feeding, to me, just simply based off of the soil used and feeding routine alone, is not one of them.. Deficiencies do not automatically mean to add more nutrients.. But I digress.

SAME FEELING I GET WHEN I SEE SO EKNE WITH CAL OR MAG DEFICIENCY AND ALL THE “internet” GROW GENIUSES JUST SAY GIVE IT CAL/MAG! Like that’s to be used preventatively so no issues arise but u don’t add both after a def pops up IMO! I’m on that newer level of growing but seems u wanna treat just the def not add magic comb bottles for a single def!

 

[Proph]

Ok makes sense so what should I do now?
What steps can I take to identify the real problem?

Questions need to be asked.. Like I stated, there could be several different things that could have caused this. Your job is to do a diagnostic check up to try to find the issue.. Do you have a ppm meter? Are you feeding every time you water? I would also make another small mixture of that vinegar/nutrients solution (The exact same way you did before) and check the ph after you add nutes. We need to know what that end result is so that we know what the last feed on was. I have no clue how the nutrient line will react to vinegar being added. But I do know that vinegar is unstable. If this issue legit started a few days ago, then it could be directly related to a reaction to the vinegar/nutrient mix. That seems to be the only thing that has changed. When you were using water only for the first 3 weeks, were you adding vinegar to the water then as well? I'm thinking there is a nutrient lock out. The only way to know for sure is with a ppm meter.

 

[DCLXVI]

Ppm or ph of the water/vinegar/nute mix? I'm following along just trying to learn as well.