Shaman Genetics seeds, organic soil, fabric pots, and a lot to learn

[Fuggzy]

I'd love to see & hear more from the Dragonfly earth medicine chick, been looking for her books, but can't find anything.

I'm sure you saw this, it was recommended after the above video. I figured I'd out it here if anyone was interested. I'm not sure if I even want to get neem oil now... The rosemary and garlic tea seem to be a good starting point. The dragonfly earth medicine info is really good.

 

[Fuggzy]

So work sucked. I stayed up watching the videos posted, and another 1 from the emerald cup. I got 2 hours of sleep... and it was well worth it. Take a look at the videos for some really good info from bright minds.

We had a light morning rain today. Yay for water!!! Boo for the high ass humidity. Foggy glass makes bad pictures. No new damage on any of the plants today, at least pests wise.

#1 Is looking good. She started showing her lady parts this morning.

#2 Doesn't really have much of a change. She is looking pretty healthy, minus the prior damage.

#3 Seems to be having an issue. The bottom leaves have a spotting. It is yellow, but almost looks necrotic towards the center. This pic is a bad example. It is not bad, but noticeable. This may be from the pest sprays, the garlic is kinda strong. I'm going to dilute it with ~20% water.

The amnesia is showing signs of a mag deficiency. I'll give her an epsom feeding tonight.

The indoor autos have both grown about 2.5" so far. Shooting up like there is a prize at the light. Looking good so far.

 

[Fuggzy]

I went to home depot and got me some new shit to test. Or shit remover for that matter. The thread I was reading is older, and my guess is that labeling has changed. The clarifier most these guys used now contains chlorine, and not what I want. I ended up getting sludge remover.

This was the only product that was a barley base, and still had the bacterias in it. I went with a powered formula for the shelf life. liquid is rated at 1 year, and powder is 3 years. With 8oz treating 3,600 gallons this shit is pretty strong. There is a spoon provided for measuring, it holds 11.1 grams of powder. On the directions for a pond, the set up dose is 1 scoop per 100 gallons. That comes out to be 0.111g per gallon. The maintenance dose comes to be 0.0555g per gallon. Mixing this is going to be a real pain. My scale only goes to 100ths... For now I will have to just mix a larger batch, and dispose of what I don't use. I do make my own compost so it wont go to waste. This stuff wont last long diluted in clean water. This is ~0.4g of product. Between 4-8 gallons worth. (pond water mind you, MJ water would most likely be a lighter mix)

I do have some experiments ready to go however. I will do 3 together, and see how it reacts.

Test 1 will be harvested cannabis roots. I am going to do 3 jars with different strengths. The following 2 test will just be at recommended pond strength.


Test 2 is actually a creation from a face palm. I made a mix of kelp, and fish in my sprayer, and forgot about it. I forgot a mix like this for 3 days once, and that was pretty bad smelling. This mix is about 2 weeks old. It got put behind something in a stoned moment, and left there. The liquid has turned a red/strawberry color. I want to see if it does anything to it, and what.

Test 3 will just be some dead organic materials from the yard. Twigs, nanner leaves, grass, whatever. Thing I would compost. I want to see what happens too. This is most likely going to be sprayed, as the other things will be submerged.

If the test seem to go well, I'll try it with recycling some soil next. One guy would take the harvested pot (cut at base of plan), and use a product like this to treat the soil. He said after 2 weeks he would be able to reuse the pot/soil, and all the root would be gone. He did no-till growing, and said it worked great.

I need to also find a way to test my worms. Something VERRRRRRY small scale. From here on I plan to no-till, and have worms in all my pots that are large enough. The micro cab will just have to be recycled, no biggie.

Well I'm off to go play science.

 

[Eyes on Fire]

a simple enzyme tea and/or the roots would compost themselves back into the soil just fine with zero toxins if done correctly.ive used an enzyme tea twice n thats it and I dont use any enzyme enhancer at all to handle my root balls n so on.I personally wouldnt use that..buuut to each his own brutha man. I would be worried about it killing said species of life or even tainting a food source for said benny bugs. looking forward to see how it works for ya dude.

 

[Fuggzy]

So I am pretty sure my amnesia has tobacco mosaic virus (TMV). If so, it may be safe to assume my 2 indoor autos will too, and maybe all of them. It has taken a really fast turn for the worse. The night before last I thought it was a mag deficiency. The next morning it looked like nitrogen toxicity. This morning it just looks like 1/2 shit. 3 leaves have just died, and a few have necrotic areas. Some places have a shiny appearance, like a sugar coat. Those are the symptoms of the lower half. The upper half looks dark green with yellowish new growth like an iron def. Some of the larger leaves are getting a wrinkled look. The best I could find was TMV. 3 days ago this girl looked great, happy and healthy. Now she looks like I salted her pot. I'll take some pics later, and post them.

Oh also she is throwing red/brown pistils with immature looking calyx.

Some info I found here in regards helped diagnose this, and also at Icmag.

http://www.zamnesia.com/content/54-tobacco-mosaic-virus

RECOGNIZING TOBACCO MOSAIC VIRUS (TMV)
TMV is a virus belonging to the Potyviridae family that consists of small rods approximately 700 nanometres long. In an infected plant the youngest leaves develop ring-shaped yellow-green patches, circular shapes and meandering lines. The older leaves develop a yellow mosaic. The leaf turns fully yellow in a short space of time. Sometimes infection happens without the symptoms of the virus being visible.

THE SPREAD OF TMV
An attack by mosaic virus occurs mainly in summer and autumn when there are a lot of winged aphids around. Aphids can easily introduce the virus. When you’re working amongst your crops you can also inadvertently spread the virus to a lesser degree. Spreading by seed or in soil is not possible.

The virus has many carriers, including lettuce and various weeds, and can survive in these plants. It also infects other commercial crops including tobacco, cucumber, tomatoes, and so on. Cross-infection is possible (hemp to tomato and visa-versa).

From the moment that the virus enters the plant there is no way to get it back out again; clones from this plant are also now infected with the virus.

Warning: tobacco mosaic virus (TMV) can also be carried in cigarettes and rolling tobacco/shag!!

EECTS ON THE PLANT
The effects on the plant are very diverse, and the plant will never recover its previous strength because thanks to the state of the leaves, photosynthesis will remain reduced. The plant will never be a great one, that’s one thing that’s for sure, and in general it will always be underdeveloped.

COMBATING TMV
As said earlier there is no real solution since once it’s in the plant it cannot be got rid of. But the environmental factors are important; a plant in a constant environmental temperature of 21 degrees Celsius or higher will have less trouble from the virus, so keeping your temperature up at this level is essential.

PREVENTION OF TMV
The first step is to make sure you start your grow with a clean space, so make sure it has as few bugs as possible and wash your hands before playing with your plants.

If this virus gets in the mother plant, then there’s a 99% chance that you’ll get it in your grow space too. In principle it is already possible to detect in a clone whether there is viral infection in it. So inspect it carefully. If the plant has any strange features simply discard it and use another one.

In order to slash the chances of an infection you need to start with good clones or take the process of making them into your own hands. You can also choose to grow from seed, which reduces your chance of TMV infection to a minimum.

YIELD
The big question of course is what’s the cost to your yield? The answer is ‘considerably’. Because your plant has the virus it will make leafage and these will deliver less. If you keep the temperature at 21+ the damage is liveable with, but outdoor plants will have a lot more stress from the infection if you live in a country that tends to have outdoor temperatures below 21 degrees.

http://bigbudsmag.com/dealing-with-tobacco-mosaic-virus-tmv-br-in-your-marijuana-plants/

Dealing with Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV) in Your Marijuana Plants
by Elliot Larson
As we’ve been examining how viruses such as Tobacco Mosaic Virus attack marijuana, and hearing from growers that viruses are an increasing problem in the marijuana community, we’re going in for a deeper look.

One big reason is, a lot of growers think they have nutrients or grow room environment problems, but in some cases their plant problems are actually caused by viruses.

Viruses are strange things. They aren’t really alive or dead. They aren’t plants or animals.

What they are is very clever and retaining their molecular integrity in the most hostile conditions, and wreaking havoc in animals and plants.

The Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV) is one of five viruses known to attack marijuana.

They’re related to viruses that cause serious problems for humans, including HIV, Ebola, Dengue Fever, Polio, and Rabies.

As far as we know at this time, your health is not affected by viruses in marijuana you consume.

But the harsh truth is, when a marijuana plant is infected by a virus, it will always be infected.

Not only that, viruses transmit in pollen and in seeds, and can live for as much as 50-60 years in grow room equipment, carpets, soil, dead plant tissue, and other materials!

As you read in the previous article, getting rid of viruses on your marijuana growing environment and equipment means a thorough cleaning with a virucide such as Physan 20.

But you can never get rid of viruses in plant tissues once they’ve infected your marijuana plants.


One of the worst things about viruses in marijuana is they cause symptoms that masquerade as problems with fertilizers and hydroponics nutrients, pH, or grow room environment.

These include chlorosis (yellowing of leaves), necrosis (dark or dying parts of leaves), streaking or mosaics (swirling patterns of leaf discoloration), stunted/deformed leaves or plants, slow growth, weak stems and stalks, parts of leaves disappearing (leaving what looks like an insect bite in the leaf), shiny leaves, upturned leaf edges, “bubbling” on leaves, and decreased production of marijuana floral structure and resin glands.

Most marijuana growers would initially assume, as I did, that such problems are caused by factors I can control, such as nutrients issues, pH, grow room environment.

That’s why I went through a marijuana troubleshooting checklist that involved changing out my hydroponics nutrients, soil, and water while also making sure my marijuana grow room conditions and root zone pH were ideal.

None of those interventions stopped the cannabis leaf problems, and as I worried myself sick about the situation, I discovered that my marijuana plants’ problems came from viruses.

I started testing my crops using a tobacco mosaic virus test kit. At first, the tests revealed no virus. I was probably doing them wrong or the results were otherwise invalid, because a few days later, the tests showed my plants had TMV.

But it doesn’t mean my adjustment of nutrients and my other interventions were a total waste of time.

In fact, because you can’t completely rid your marijuana plants of viruses once they’ve acquired them, and unless you just want to trash your plants and start over, the best way of managing your infected cannabis plants is to do exactly what I did to renew, monitor, and upgrade my feed program, root zone, and grow room conditions.

How do viruses get into cannabis plants?

One way is through insect vectors, especially aphids, whitefly, and thrips.

Another way is for viruses to be transmitted through seeds, pollen, or clones.

Or it can come from soil or water that has viral cells on-board.

Viruses also transmit into your cannabis grow room from outdoors.

And tobacco mosaic virus can come in through tobacco. Another good reason to give up smoking cigarettes!

And because viruses jump from plant to plant, they’re easily spread in crowded grow rooms and in situations when hygiene standards and vector control are low.

The TMV infection that plagued my marijuana grow room came from infected clones.

Worse yet, there was no way for me to know the clones were infected. They looked fine when I bought them.

Virus-infected marijuana plants often first show symptoms when they’re stressed, such as when they’re transplanted, pruned, or moved from one place to another.

Of course, if you have bad conditions in your marijuana garden—heat, cold, inferior hydroponics nutrients, polluted water, lack of aeration or air exchange, plant crowding—the stress can trigger the outbreak of the virus.

You have a chance of preventing virus infections by running a super-clean marijuana grow op and not bringing infected materials, seeds, or clones into your cannabis garden.

If you already have a virus infection in your marijuana plants, all is not lost. You can use Physan 20 to control the virus, and take other steps, as outlined in past articles and in upcoming ones, so stay tuned.

This link has already been posted here, and is how I actually found this. I am a member there, but am not advertising this site. I am just trying to spread a resource. https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=177527

I hope to figure this out really soon. If I need to I will just cull the cab, and detail clean every spec of disease out of it. I will be devastated if it goes outside though. I do believe this could spread to my veggie garden. I have a lot more sweat and hard work put in to that.

 

[Fuggzy]

a simple enzyme tea and/or the roots would compost themselves back into the soil just fine with zero toxins if done correctly.ive used an enzyme tea twice n thats it and I dont use any enzyme enhancer at all to handle my root balls n so on.I personally wouldnt use that..buuut to each his own brutha man. I would be worried about it killing said species of life or even tainting a food source for said benny bugs. looking forward to see how it works for ya dude.

This should be the exact same thing as a simple enzyme tea. It is a barley base that the enzymes come from. I would just think about it more as a complex enzyme tea. I'm not trying to push this though. For now it is more for fun.

To be honest I'm speculative at best for now. I don't plan on using this in my canna for a while if I do. I would have to ease in to that. The main reason I want to use this are for giving the compost a nice charge, and for PWM. Replacing the SST is a second tier want. I will still be making corn SST regardless to harvest the cytokinins during flower time.

I have a ponytail palm with sooty black mold that I plan on testing it on too. If worse comes to worse, it's only a $10 experiment. It'll be $10 well spent if it works though.

Talk to you later bud.

 

[Fuggzy]

I forgot to load these yesterday. These are the root soaking in the pond cleaner. From left to right strengths are 100%, 75%, and 50%. The ratios are scaled from the start up application of 11.1 grams of powder per 100 gallons h2o. They all have a total of 500ml of water.

This is a super over charged mix. Just for the sake of science I used about enough for 15 gallons, in about 5oz of water. I'm curious what happens in a real oh shit moment.

This is from this morning. These are in the same order as above. In general the they look the same, with the over charged glass having a more white appearance on the root. Cleaner if you will. The water is a bit cloudier too. This may be due to moving just prior to the pic.

 

[Fuggzy]

It is time for some needed updates to my micro cab. I have been running it with out a carbon filter. Tisk tisk. Here in the near future this cab should be brought in to my closet, and I need the air to be clean.

I have already built the carbon housing. It is basically based off my large bought filter. I have a black plastic grid (sorry I waked n baked, and can't think of the name) that I used for the walls. I wrapped that in a tube, and zip tied it. The white material is a batting material for quilting. The mounting bracket, and end cap ring are fan mounting brackets for a peltier cooler. Also not pictured is the inner tube. Same idea as the outer wall. ( i guess no inside pic too... sorry, i'll add one)

I could not find my damn dremel so I was reduced to a file. I was also reduced to not finishing. 2am running on 3 hours of sleep, and I'm going at it with a file like the wood stole from me. I think next time I'll just use the router, and forget the manual labor.

When this part is finished I will be adding a few speaker terminals with push connections to make the fans and light modular. Being hard wired makes it a real pain to work on the cab. I'm already going to have to rewire some of it on this project. I'd rather not have to do it again.


My other project for the night was to build my light fixture for my 4x2 tent. This also came to a halt when I broke 2 drill bits 3/4 the way through.


This light is going to be the same setup as the micro cab. There are 24 cobs total at the moment, more to come later.There are 12 at 3000k, and 12 at 3500k. I have 12 drivers that will be mounted on a board outside the tent. They are going to be running at 300ma (.3A) and giving me ~8.01w each and totaling ~192.24w total. (26.7v*.3a=8.01w*24=192.24w) This is under driven, and will increase the efficiency of the light.


Each heatsink has a 50mm fan to help cool it. By the way sourcing 50mm ball bearing fans with a thin profile really sucked. It didn't leave much room to compare static pressures. The vero 10 puts off very little heat, and is easy to manage. If the fan alone doesn't do a good enough job, I will wrap the fins with aluminum. Create a tunnel for directional air flow.

I also have have some 3w units to run for supplemental lighting. I'm not sure how I will mix these yet, but I have:
10 royal blue
20 red
10 far red
10 3400k

These bars are already drilled and tapped now. These are cheapbay led, but where 1/10 the price of the cree and philips I bought. The cree and philips are the bar on the left, and are for the micro cab.

I think while I have the cab tore apart, I'm going to add 2 more cobs to it. This would give me 56.07w in cobs, and 12w in single diodes when all done. That would be ~68w in 138sq inches.


So much crap to do today.

 

[Fuggzy]

Amnesia update.

She is looking worse. The yellowing every symptom I described above has gotten worse.

A few days ago she had all her leaves, none where pruned. Now some have already died and fell off. You will see glossy sections in all the pics, this is not a foliage spray, or anything I put on it. It is something that started with everything else.

This is the wrinkling of the upper leaves. It is a bit worse than the image looks.

Necrotic spotting, and what I believe to be the mosaic patter. Although I have never seen it in person to compare it too. A few leaves that died, dried, and dropped in 36 hours.

This thing is just looking terrible. I don't get it.

This was just on Tuesday, 3 DAYS!!! Yellowing, okay... Spots, okay... Dieing, and drying to a crisp, and wide spread effects, I can only guess it is viral. I might as well add a pound of salt to the mix.

 

[Fuggzy]

Shamans update.

Todays forecast must be cloudy. I swear I saw a black cloud in my back yard. I had another hungry caterpillar this morning.

#1 She is doing fine, and progressing. A few more bud sites are showing, and new growth looks healthy.


#2 had the caterpillar. Another buffet or 2 and she will be gone. I hope she pulls out of this. They are already on really limited light, and time.

#3 is looking just fine. The spotting looks to have gone away. Obviously my necrotic opinion was over thought. She looks good so far.



These cater pillars are tearing my spinach apart too. I have 4 plants spinach that all look like this. I actually saw a post here that a feller had spinach near his canna, and the caterpillars ate it also. However he said that spinach might be good companion plant for the canna, as the caterpillars where drawn to the spinach. I'm paraphrasing that, but it's what I got from it.

My roselle is barley hanging on. It has had a problem with millie bugs. I can't get rid of them, but have kept them contained to this plant. I am basically just waiting for the seeds, and not going to use this plant. It popped it's first flower last night, 3 actually. It also had a visitor from a night creature, snapping it in half. This creature also knocked 2 red hibiscus (false roselle) off a table. Their pots where about 18 lbs with water. I hope it was a roided out coon, and not a hungry bear. Only 1 flower remains below the break, and maybe 3 buds. If the seeds get a chance to mature, I'll be amazed.


I'm going to take a look at the video posted on this page again. All the speakers had really good info, and claimed really good results. I have ordered the neem oil, and will be using herb/botanical teas in conjunction with it. My radishes are virtually untouched. A few small holes, but that is it. I'm thinking about using it as a green mulch around the plants. Maybe mix in some banana tree leaves, I don't know, but it is time to get creative. I've got lots of flowering purslane that I was thinking about using as a cover crop. They are also virtually untouched, and thriving. They roots like a lizards tail grow. clip clip clip I go.


Man I hope this isn't because I sent a guy a "karma fart" it was in good humor I swear!