Shaman Genetics seeds, organic soil, fabric pots, and a lot to learn

Hey Fuggzy, I'm intrigued by the use of FPJ. You suggested I read up on a thread I started so here I am. LOL! I'm subbed to see how everything turns out. Plus I'm sure I'll learn a heap o' knowledge. Peace.:peace:
 
You're one of a kind, dude! I got my eyes sticked at your journal!

Haha I guess we're on the same boat, about defending ourselves some smoke.

Mind you not about the short days... I beem on the same circunstance as my garden has got a terrible positioning to maintain its "stealthness".

In the end it doesn't matter. Its all a great experience... and as long as you harvest nice plants without pests. It was very much worth the investiment of time!

What screwed my last grow was the high temps and humidity and my low maintenance. :-/ gave me the crappiest smoke ever. Hopefully I harvested some seeds.

:p

Had to learn my lesson... I guess.
Well thank you very much. I just try to share what I am learning. My family had a veggie garden when I was a child, and I just fell in love with nature from it. When I learned about all this stuff I could make for my garden, I quickly fell in love with organic gardening.

The house I am in now is the first place I have been able to have my own garden. Now having my own son to help makes it even more special to me. He still doesn't understand much but he helps me mix soil. 1 tiny handful at a time. He doesn't work on the ladies, but when it is an appropriate time I will teach him what ever he wants to know. That is if this life style is 1 he choses. For now its just peppers, and radish, and spinach.

I am trying to do regenerative gardening. By that I mean to leave the soil better than how I found it. Take it a step farther than sustaining gardening. I chose not to do a raised bed, and there is no weed barrier. I tilled a section on my yard, and cleaned it of all debris 9" deep. This is the only time I will till it. I then got about 3 truck loads of mulch and spread it over the area. (i did not smooth it after tilling. i wanted the mulch to go in to the sand) After that I add about 35 lbs of worm castings, a few cups of blood and bone meal, and compost(1 trucks worth, home made here). After a week or 2 of rain the compost had settled below the mulch. I let it sit for about 2.5 months. It would have 45-50 mushrooms every morning. Only thing I did was feed it FPJs, and worm teas. After about 2 month the shrooms thinned out. This is when I started prepping to plant. I felt that the fungi and bacterial levels had balanced out some. My mom being a master gardener told me I was being naive, and she was right I guess. I looked at it as being adventurous. My goal was to create a base of humus, and microbes to condition my sand. I have not got the soil tested, but it is providing life to a small garden. This is the same location that 4 months ago would not even grow grass. There have been ups and downs, but the plants are in good health. This spring should prove to be a better garden, I have planted a bunch of peas around my yard and garden to compost back in to the soil. Nothing like a good legume to make free nitrogen.

Some of the plant I have invested in to grow are comfrey, sunflowers, peas (any legume), aloe, safflower. All of these plants have something to offer your garden. The comfrey and safflower are both miners. They have roots that got 8-12 feet deep, and being up the minerals to their leaves. They are great for doing a mulch with the leaves, or using the roots also. Sunflowers are great for doing a chop and drop mulch. They have high levels of nitrogen in them. Aloe is a great source of Potassium silicate. This helps the plant ward off pest, and make it stronger. Some would even say it will increase the levels of thc glands as this is the plants "armor".

Speaking of silicate, I got my order. Being that the name is on the package, there should be no reason to post the site...
DSCN0960[1].JPG

Instead of adding aloe water to my pest spray, I used the agsil 16h. I also used some of the mycos in the new auto pots. The myco are a granular and made it very easy to get it to the root zone. I was able to use less than I expected. Both of these products will go a long way.

I did my first pest spray on my mj and garden. Even if it does not keep the caterpillars away it should work for many other pest. Plus it just smells fucking great.

Time to go cook a late dinner. have fun.
 
Hey Fuggzy, I'm intrigued by the use of FPJ. You suggested I read up on a thread I started so here I am. LOL! I'm subbed to see how everything turns out. Plus I'm sure I'll learn a heap o' knowledge. Peace.:peace:
Mahalo and welcome. If you are interested on page 3 there is a video explaining how I make my FPJ. This guy is a big agricultural activist in Hawaii, and believes in natural farming. If you want a more dialed in FPJ you can always use items that are good for organic ferts. For instance, the banana flower I am making now. I am going to use this as a flowering nute. There is basically no nitrogen to speak of, but it is high in potassium, has some phosphorus, and other goodies like Cal/Mag.

If I was trying to make a general purpose fert I just use weeds, maybe some comfrey if I had it growing. (my comfrey is still to small, boooo) There are many plants that can and will provide you with free/cheap nutrients. Comfrey root goes for about $14 a pound on amazon. When I use it, I only use 14/-1/2 cup at a time. Nettle plants are another good one to have (be wary though the hurt when they prick you). Try looking up companion planting for cannabis. Aloe is not only great for your other plants, it is the best air filter you can get. NASA did a study trying to figure out what plants could help sustain clean breathable O2 on the space station, and aloe was ranked #1. This is also why I want to stop chopping my plant up.... Its such a great thing to have around.

This would actually be a good time to update my nanner juice. It has been about 2.5 days so far, and it is coming along nicly.
It has a fresh sweet smell still. When it finishes, the fresh (plant) smell seems to go away. For the most part all of the sugar has settled to the bottom.
DSCN0963[1].JPG

This won't produce a lot. about enough for 1 plant, but thats all I need atm. I explained how I collect it, but will provide pics when this is finished. I don't know this for sure, but it looks like the sugar some what preserves the fruit in there. Compaired to a yellow banana that can damn near decompose in your hand.
DSCN0964[1].JPG


If you have any questions feel free to post them, or pm me if you prefer. The more on this journey, the better all of our chances of greatness are. Till next time, take care.
 
Hey Fuggs, whats the myco species ? I only use a bit of innoc during seed sowing (a pinch) around the seed and I will throw another few sprinkles in when tranpslanting photos. I see no point in mixing in bulk soil as the spores must touch roots to activate. Also I use only a single species, "Glomus Intradices" which I read somewhere was shown on tests to have the best relationship with MJ. When using a broad spectrum innoc, the different species have to fight it out with the other species to establish dominance on the root, so why not innoc with only one highly beneficial species. Lovin your posts man, keep em comin
:baked:
 
Hey Fuggs, whats the myco species ? I only use a bit of innoc during seed sowing (a pinch) around the seed and I will throw another few sprinkles in when tranpslanting photos. I see no point in mixing in bulk soil as the spores must touch roots to activate. Also I use only a single species, "Glomus Intradices" which I read somewhere was shown on tests to have the best relationship with MJ. When using a broad spectrum innoc, the different species have to fight it out with the other species to establish dominance on the root, so why not innoc with only one highly beneficial species. Lovin your posts man, keep em comin
:baked:

Hi there Vas D. Hope your day is going well. I have to admit, of everything I use, mycos in general are what I know least about.

I have a basic knowledge of them, and know some of what I don't want, but not 100% sure what to look for. The reason I chose this mix is I have dealt with Jeremy from BAS via phone, email, and forums. He more or less told me to keep my money and local source on my 1st order attempt. He even suggested some other vendors that where in my area not needing shipping. Not to sound like a fan boy, but as a person I respect him. His products have also been used and tested by people like microbman, and other "big names" in our community. I also felt that the value was much better compared to most other myco packs that just seemed like a fancy foil pack.

The spores in the mix are
As far as using 1 species VS a mix, you very well mat be right. I'll have a look today and see what I can come up with. Oh, also when I said heavy handed, I meant 2 pinches. I only used 1 pinch each. It spread on the soil pretty good. Also, I was able to get it right to the root, with out touching the seed/root.

This is from the BAS page. I'm not trying to advertise, this is just what they say about their product.
*****************************************************************************************************

This mix is superior to the standard Intraradices spore by itself.

Compare to Mykos products with only Glomus Intraradices at 80 Spores per gram.

This endo mycorrhizal granular inoculum consists of 4 carefully selected species of endomycorrhizae. About 80% of the world’s plant species form with these types of mycorrhizae. These beneficial fungi greatly increase the effective rooting area of plants thereby enhancing plant growth, vigor and tolerance of environmental extremes. Our product is a granular material containing mycorrhizal fungi that colonize roots and extend into the surrounding soil forming an essential link between plant and soil resources. They greatly increase the root’s ability to absorb water and nutrients, while improving plant survival, vigor and health.

With so many different Myco Products on the market it's hard to determine what to buy. For a long time I've personally recommended getting a Glomus Intraradices spore by the pound on ebay and I still think it's a good product. But now we can offer a product direct from the manufacturer that contains 4 spores proven to work very well together. You'll notice the first two if you've been reading around about growing indoors with Myco. The second two are also important and will have benefits depending on environmental situations with over-watering or under-watering etc. The research has shown that using a variety of endomycorrhizal spores known to associate with your plant is the best approach.
*****************************************************************************************************

I almost went to ebay and got Glomus Intraradices based on what the above quote says. Even when I looked at those, the mix just seemed better still. I'll post the info I can find on the other spores, and if they play well together.

Based on your experiences, how do you like it? Does it seem to work like you thought? I'd love to hear your thoughts. Take care.
 
**Garden updates**

So I did the 1st pest spray last night. I didn't see any i'll effects or new damage. The worms are also active, and seem unaffected. I'm going to go ahead and continue using the spray.
DSCN0965[1].JPG


#1 is looking good for the most part. She is a bit lanky, but I'd guess that is to be expected. I can see new growth on the inter nods too. (I forgot to take a solo pic of here... so)
:growing:

#2 Is coming along also. No new damage either. The previous damage sucks though. Now that it is growing out, there are 2 leaves that are missing 1/3 surface.
DSCN0966[1].JPG


#3 Is still untouched by pest. Some new growth, taking her time.
DSCN0967[1].JPG


Both Crazy Ape and Azure Rocket have broke soil. I'm eager to see these grow.
DSCN0969[1].JPG DSCN0970[1].JPG

The Amnesia is still being a champ. I'm rather enjoying watching this plant. Taking to LST so well, and watching the "popcorn" reign rise to the challenge.
DSCN0968[1].JPG
DSCN0971[1].JPG

I'm making a fpj, and agsil 16h feeding for her. I may put a bit of fish hydsrolite in there. Might be the last bit of N before going to flowers. I want her to grow at least another 5-6" before she goes full bloom.

Till later, take care.
 
Okay, I broke the mold today, and measured my feeding ingredients. Metric at that. I surprised myself. I figured If I really want to be able to dial in my home made brews, I should keep track of them.

Todays photo feed contained:
500ml water
125ml prepared fpj
5ml fish hydsrolite
5ml kelp concentration
20 grams agsil16h

I also added the 3rd tie down to the amnesia. I couldn't resist. She is growing pretty quick for a small plant. I hope the bud are a good smoke. I have 3 more of these and look forward to growing them again.

I have been reading about enzymes in general. I currently make SST to harvest them, and although easy, it can be a pain. An alternative to growing the sprouts is to use malted barley. The same thing they use for making beer. This is a nice way to know you are actually getting the enzymes, and not doing a crap shoot with sprouts. I'm confident in saying that nobody on this site as the necessary gear to check enzyme levels. It takes expensive laboratory tools to do so. However the malted barley is made by people that have that gear, and so it for a living. It is also about as cheap as growing the sprouts. You can find it for less that $1 per pound.

So my quest was to find a good barley source. Basically any local home brew store is the best option. What I did find though was a nice thread regarding enzymes bottled for MJ, and enzymes made for ponds/fountains. Guess what... It is the same damn thing. The only noticeable difference was the concentration. When these guys contacted the manufactures, their idea of using in hydroponics where confirmed. The manufacture gave them a dilution rate for hydro, and also encouraged them to use it in soil. The dilution rate was only 4ml per gallon of water.

Some of the benefits of enzymes are that they break down organic materials, keep roots healthy a free of root rot, activate a compost pile, and recycling soils. It will literately eat the dead roots up in about a week. The manufacture these guys called even said it was great at fighting PWM, they just couldn't claim it on the bottle. Something along the lines of changing their classifications.

There where a few brand being thrown around, but the only differences where if it contained bacteria, or if it was sterile. The main differences in those 2 are that the sterile has a much longer shelf life, as there is no live microbes to die off (spoil). I personal would go for the bacteria, but thats just me.

This is the product they contacted the manufacture about. I couldn't post the amazon link for some reason.
Care Free, Enzymes Fountain / Pond Protector

I'm going to do more reading on the matter, but this is even cheaper than using malted barley. Just for reference, cannazym is 60x the price of this (considering the dilution rates). IT IS THE SAME DAMN THING!

This and some neem are in the amazon cart as I speak. Once I get the wife approval to spend more $$$ I'll post some results from it. I have ~4 gallons of soil to recycle, and that would be a good starting test.

Anyone have any experience with enzymes? Pond cleaners? I'd love to hear how some of you guys go about it.
 
Hi there Vas D. Hope your day is going well. I have to admit, of everything I use, mycos in general are what I know least about.

I have a basic knowledge of them, and know some of what I don't want, but not 100% sure what to look for. The reason I chose this mix is I have dealt with Jeremy from BAS via phone, email, and forums. He more or less told me to keep my money and local source on my 1st order attempt. He even suggested some other vendors that where in my area not needing shipping. Not to sound like a fan boy, but as a person I respect him. His products have also been used and tested by people like microbman, and other "big names" in our community. I also felt that the value was much better compared to most other myco packs that just seemed like a fancy foil pack.

The spores in the mix are
As far as using 1 species VS a mix, you very well mat be right. I'll have a look today and see what I can come up with. Oh, also when I said heavy handed, I meant 2 pinches. I only used 1 pinch each. It spread on the soil pretty good. Also, I was able to get it right to the root, with out touching the seed/root.

This is from the BAS page. I'm not trying to advertise, this is just what they say about their product.
*****************************************************************************************************

This mix is superior to the standard Intraradices spore by itself.

Compare to Mykos products with only Glomus Intraradices at 80 Spores per gram.

This endo mycorrhizal granular inoculum consists of 4 carefully selected species of endomycorrhizae. About 80% of the world’s plant species form with these types of mycorrhizae. These beneficial fungi greatly increase the effective rooting area of plants thereby enhancing plant growth, vigor and tolerance of environmental extremes. Our product is a granular material containing mycorrhizal fungi that colonize roots and extend into the surrounding soil forming an essential link between plant and soil resources. They greatly increase the root’s ability to absorb water and nutrients, while improving plant survival, vigor and health.

With so many different Myco Products on the market it's hard to determine what to buy. For a long time I've personally recommended getting a Glomus Intraradices spore by the pound on ebay and I still think it's a good product. But now we can offer a product direct from the manufacturer that contains 4 spores proven to work very well together. You'll notice the first two if you've been reading around about growing indoors with Myco. The second two are also important and will have benefits depending on environmental situations with over-watering or under-watering etc. The research has shown that using a variety of endomycorrhizal spores known to associate with your plant is the best approach.
*****************************************************************************************************

I almost went to ebay and got Glomus Intraradices based on what the above quote says. Even when I looked at those, the mix just seemed better still. I'll post the info I can find on the other spores, and if they play well together.

Based on your experiences, how do you like it? Does it seem to work like you thought? I'd love to hear your thoughts. Take care.

Hey Fuggz,

I too will admit I have not done extensive study on myco's. I have seen the build-a-soil stuff.....respect. The presentation I saw basically said that only one species of myco will end up dominating the root.. "so why not allow the one species that we know works with MJ to dominate from the start". weather or not this is true I cannot confirm nor deny. I've only statred using it this season, so far so good. You may have seen this but they hit on Myco a bit among other things,



I'd love to see & hear more from the Dragonfly earth medicine chick, been looking for her books, but can't find anything.
 
Okay so the enzyme reading i pretty interesting. Most of what i have read is from analytical experiences of home growers. This is a post from a guy 5 months in to the thread.
i was reading this thread when it started back in february and went out and got some becket pond clarifier (dry barley enzyme blah blah). I started using it at 1/4 tsp per 25 gallons with every water (hand water coir). two completed grows since, and so far I can see no difference between the beckets, and hygrozyme....certainly no ill effects. my last two weeks i water with plain H20 and enzyme, then remove the big root at harvest then i set the smartpots aside for 2 weeks. after 2 weeks i crumble the coir into a cooler, water with roots excel, and reuse.
the small roots are all broken down by then and there is not a scrap of dead root left. to me that suggests that the zyme is working!
now my only problem is that this $10 jar is gonna last me until i am 87 years old, and then im gonna need a new jar....and home depot wont carry it by then...

Also after some testing, most of these guys recommended going with a dry (powder) pond enzymes. Mainly because it is so concentrated that the liquid will go bad before you use it all. I will be going to Home Depot tomorrow to check this out. Seems to be an average price of $10 for years of use.

Going back to using barley... A lot of the pond cleaners are actually made from barley enzymes.
 
You may have seen this but they hit on Myco a bit among other things,
I have not seen this yet. I'm watching it now. Pretty good video, thanks for posting it.

I'd also love to hear more about the dragonfly chicks processes too. Shes pretty interesting.

I just saw the part talking about single stain mycos, and he has a good argument. The fact that his family business is to produce mycos, makes it hard to not believe.
 
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