New Grower Second attempt at autos

Thanks @Bob's Auto's , I could t find the true watts for these, but I figured they were not even close to 1000 watts. Yup, time to turn on all three.

AFN peeps, what should the lux be at the canopy?
 
I'd get away from LUX ASAP. Under most circumstances, it's a WAG as to how much light your plants are getting that they can actually use. Check out the attachment. Lux measures what humans can see, PAR (what plants use) is much different. "Lumens are for humans."

You can get a PAR meter for < $200 and $250 will get a decent one. As an alternative, there's an app called Photone that's worth far more that they charge for it.

I've also attached a poster made by a company called LI-COR. It's a good intro to light levels.

Your plants look great, BTW.

illuminance-vs-ppfd.png
 

Attachments

  • LICOR Poster.pdf
    3.8 MB · Views: 19
I'd get away from LUX ASAP. Under most circumstances, it's a WAG as to how much light your plants are getting that they can actually use. Check out the attachment. Lux measures what humans can see, PAR (what plants use) is much different. "Lumens are for humans."

You can get a PAR meter for < $200 and $250 will get a decent one. As an alternative, there's an app called Photone that's worth far more that they charge for it.

I've also attached a poster made by a company called LI-COR. It's a good intro to light levels.

Your plants look great, BTW.

View attachment 1443241
I found an app called PPFD Meter on my android phone. I've read that it's just a fancy par app that converts to PPDF automatically, but still has the same amount of error as any of the others out there. As long as it's in the ball park is all that matters to me! :pass:
 
I found an app called PPFD Meter on my android phone. I've read that it's just a fancy par app that converts to PPDF automatically, but still has the same amount of error as any of the others out there. As long as it's in the ball park is all that matters to me! :pass:
Yup, that'll work!
 
So I dropped my lights down quite a bit, 18" off the top. I know it's too low, but I wanted to see what happens next. I am getting a ppfd reading of 210-230.

Is this good?

The app says it is low.

Thanks!
 
Got my pH figured out. Using lemon juice, I am able to get it down to around 6.5, give or take. I wonder if it will add some nice citrus flavors...
 
In my previous grows, I've tended to keep light levels on the lower side of the recommended range. I can't say why, frankly, but for my current Gorilla Glue grow, I decided to change that and went with a DLI of 25 on an 18/6 schedule = 385 µmoles.

If you're at 220 and 18/6 which is 14 moles. That's about the level I was using last year and I gradually increased that light level until I got well into veg. That won't hurt cannabis plants but, assuming that you've got the other environmental factors under control, I've never seen any recommendation that would go against you raising your light level. Try bumping to 300 or 400 and see how the plants react.

I ran into an issue last week where my Mars SP 3000 went to full power and I wasn't aware of it until I saw that my tent temperature was heading to 90°. When I got into the tent, one of the leaves had rotated around its petiole so as to avoid the light. Twenty minutes after I reset the light level, it had rotated back to about 30° above horizontal and, twenty minutes after that, it was back to normal. No harm, no foul.


There recommended range for seedlings varies from 100 to 300 to 100 to 400 from sources like LI-COR and Photone. Most of LED manufacturers that I've looked at don't use µmols or moles. They give recommended hang height and dimmer %, instead, but when you get their PPFD maps and run the numbers, they tend to be on the lower side. One reason for that could well be that they want to ensure a successful crop but have no interest in recommending anything more than that - there's simply no upside for them.

I followed the manufacturer's advice pretty closely but, with this grow, have completely changed my perspective. I've stepped away from what Mars and ViparSpectra recommended and have gone in the direction that the "instrument industry", for want of a better descriptor, and what other growers have recommended which is 25 moles. A big factor in that is my third grow in 12 months so I've learned a lot and am more comfortable with what to do/what not to do.

My GG's germinated on 3/15, a few days before yours, and they're getting a PPFD of 450 from the Mars SP3000 plus roughly 100 µmols from a blue LED that I run a few hours a day. All told, they'll get ≈ 30 moles. That's "a lot of light" to me but I can't find any source that says that's too much light. I've attached some bits and pieces that I've collected. These are some of the "inputs" (I've been a programmer for 30 years so I tend to think in those terms) that have helped shape my opinions.

The DLI Levels by Growth Stage is from the folks who sell Photone. I've drawn a few lines on the graph to indicate where my light level should be. Thirty moles this week and then 40 the week after. You might want to check out the Photone site - their site is well laid out, informative, and easy to read.

The LICOR poster - LICOR makes light measuring instruments, along the lines of Apogee.

The final pix is of my GG's today. A comment that I made on another site is that if those plants got any happier, they'd have to get a room. They were at 28 moles yesterday, bumped to 30± today.

DLI Levels by Growth Stage.png
IMG_6285.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • LICOR Poster.pdf
    3.8 MB · Views: 29
I think after this grow, I will be investing in a better light. These Giixer lights are bright to me, but measuring levels it is pretty garbage for veg and definitely for bloom. Live and learn.

Any suggestions on a led for a 4x2? @Delps8 , how do you like your sp3000?
 
I think after this grow, I will be investing in a better light. These Giixer lights are bright to me, but measuring levels it is pretty garbage for veg and definitely for bloom. Live and learn.

Any suggestions on a led for a 4x2? @Delps8 , how do you like your sp3000?

It was the right light for me at the time.

When I was looking for a grow light a year ago, the SP 3000 was the best product I found in the consumer market for a 2' x 4'. I used it for my two grows last year. The only issue that I found with the light is that the way that you attach the light to the pulleys/hangers could have been done a lot better. Mars includes two pieces of triangular hangers that hook at a location of your choice along the body of the light. It's functional but zero engineering went that approach - you just find a spot to hook each piece on to the light. That's the only negative about that light that I have.

The driver can be dismounted and I like the fact that it's a single bar light because it takes up very little room in the tent. The spectrum is a good broad spectrum. IIRC, it does have some far red. Light output is excellent in terms of the PPFD values and good in terms of uniformity. The vendor has good presence on various cannabis sites and they ship from the US. I wouldn't be surprised to learn, but can't provide evidence, that they have repair facilties in the US. I say that because I suspect that the US is a very large market for them.

Having said that, if I were in the market for a light for a 2' x 4'today, I'd take a long, hard look at the Migro Aray with the "Pro Red" option. If you look at the charts for the Migro at ppfdcharts.com, the Aray has superb uniformity. That uniformity is a function of the design of the light and so you will have to work around the light as it hangs in the tent. My hunch is that the design that Migro has chosen will be come more popular for lights in the 2' x 4' market because it's modular and because the light pattern is excellent. One concern I would have about a Migro is that they're located outside CONUS which means that support, of all kinds, will be delayed and if the product needs to be returned for repair, shipping costs will be high.

On the topic of design of Migro vs the design of the SP 3000, checkout this light from Chilled. That light uses their existing components but it is a new design for them and it performs markedly better than their X3 (full disclosure - I bought an X3 late last year.) I suspect that Chilled compared the Migro to their X3 and, pardon the pun, the light went on for them about a different design. It wouldn't surprise me to see other vendors eventually adopt that form factor.

Today, I'd go with either the SP 3000 or the Migro Aray with the Pro Red or, if you've got the budget, the X3. The latter is a superbly built product, noticeably better than the SP 3000. ATM, I'm using the SP 3000 + a RapidLED Royal Blue puck for my two GG autos that are in veg. Once they start to flower, I'll swap out the SP 3000 and use the X3 + the puck to finish off the grow.
 
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