Indoor Professional cannabis growers!

[Grey Bear]

Truly commercial enterprises are on a strict veg and flower schedule, with almost all of them looking to chop flowers at 60 days.
Many of the commercially grown strains could produce much larger or much stronger product, but not enough to justify the loss of an entire crop in the years schedule.
In general, they cannot for financial reasons, dote over their plants like most of us on this forum can.
The scale of difference is comparable to a person that occasionally grows some tomatoes on the porch to a working farm. Same plant completely different grown under completely different conditions.
The casual gardener might get some fruit that exceeds anything they can buy on an irregular basis, but a very edible product is always available at the market.

 

[organic]

@ son of hobbies

View that link about "how to tell by the leaves"


Question... Where are the fan leaves? they all been killed off due to lack of food?

Edit} would that plant have been bigger if the grower had kept all the fan leaves green and healthy?

 

[BayLee420]

http://www.growweedeasy.com/harvest Follow this article and you will be safe.The main thing is watch your pistols and trychomes to tell when to harvest,very simple.

Besides AFN for AutoFlowering growing info. growweedeasy.com is one of the, if not the best site for cannabis growing. They also don't mind sharing their info. I get their news letter and find the info very useful.



http://www.growweedeasy.com/home

 

[Magic]

Autos are actually a different species of canna plant. Indica sativa and rudi plabts are all different species of the same plant so they will act different, look different, grow different. Autos (rudi) ending cycle is a lot different from photo plants and also when u compare how much stored energy photo have comoared to autos its almost double depending on the plant. Think about it you think a 5-6 foot plant will yellow all the way on 2 weeks of water? Prolly not,but compare that to a 1-2 foot plant your going to see die off and yellowing a lot faster if given the same 2 week flush.
Like SOH and I think someone esle said your comparing autos to photos and yes they both may be canna plants but they are not the same "plant" so you can't expect the same thing 99% of photo grower will tell you growing autos is a completely different task. And commerical photo growers are a lot different then medical growers auto growers. Commerical its about profit and time is money so not many will allow their plant to grow to their end cycle if the breeder says 60 days then it won't grow longer than 65 but medical auto growers know if it says 60 days it might take 90 and we are willing to take that long.
Really your comparing apples and oranges, Mcdonalds to Homemade.
Now share one with me:Sharing One:

 

[organic]

So why have all my autos been more like photos except for the auto part?

Ie 1 month + veg, more like 6 weeks average, then 2 months flower giving me the same time frame as a normal photo. < my reason for viewing them this way. As surely if the Auto part was the dominant gene they would be well into flower come the 4-6th week and i would have already harvested my current grow.

( i have change pot size, lights, nutes with organic and chem so almost every aspect over the 3 grows i have completed yet still getting 4 week+ veg time and 2 flowering)

How would you know what % of each gene has gone into the make up of that plant. Its not going to be 50/50 is it... or is it? Getting a little technical here for my mind )

Like me, i have traits no one in my immediate family has, but trace back and there it is.

So lets say its 75/25 in favor of the photo. why would i feed it any different, surly that % only needs to be above 50 to warrant a photo type outlook.

:dunno:

 

[pop22]

Does it stress the plant at a time when all it wants is to feed and to pack on weight? clearly shown by self harming and eating its self. Would you go on a diet if you wanted to bulk up and put on weight, no you would eat more.

The last two weeks or so are when the plants swell up, the final push so to speak, but there's no fuel left in the tank because its been starved for xxx amount of days.

"flushing" or "cleansing" is a garden myth according to what I've read. Tests have shown it does nothing to alter the mineral, etc content of the plant. All it does it use up the sugars that are stored in the roots, MG etc, are not transportable. The "smoke test" is also a fallacy, it has nothing to do with how much Mg is in the plant, its related to moisture content. But 47 people will swear the science is wrong because they know it works...lol.

 

[Trapper]

I'm not sure I would call 90 days a normal timeframe for a photo. Most photo-period grows I'm aware of go out well past 110-120 days.

But to answer the first question in this ^ ^ ^ post:

Along with the first autos (Canada late 80's/early 90's IIRC) the 2 things they found were that the plants were small and not very potent.
Ever since then, to varying degrees, breeders have been looking to isolate the "auto" gene away from any other characteristics/traits that
they deem undesirable. In other words, they WANT all the other characteristics of photoperiods. Size, potency, etc. but just want to inject
the auto flowering trait. Breeders aren't looking to retain any other traits of the Ruderalis. (in most cases)

My plants usually cease vertical growth around Day 40 or so, then develop the trichome profile I desire at Day65 to Day 85.
I've had some plants become very yellow (As well as reds and purples during maturation) and some that didn't.

An scenario I've found myself in:

There have been times when one of my plants was REALLY still drinking hard during the cleanse. (which is what I call the flush at
the end since it really isn't a flush to clear the soil, it's a cleansing of the nutes left in the plant) She was drinking the pot dry
everyday. Since I knew how much water she had gone through, and I liked where the trichomes were, I harvested before a
2 week cleanse had been finished. No yellowing because the plant, through human intervention, was still getting enough of
what it needed to not start draining it's own fans as it normally would.

Ultimately, yellowing fan leaves or no yellowing fan leaves a plant can have reached prime or desired maturity for our purposes.

The way you are conceiving of crossovers to human genetics/traits and "majority rules/ 51% wins" I think is clouding the
issue and creating false equivalencies. The false equivalency being that if a certain percentage (quantitative assessment) of
traits are "like" a photo, but it has that one auto trait for photosensitivity, then why don't I treat it like a photo because that's
what it's mostly made up of. The answer is "because that't not what it is, it's something different now as a result of being
modified/crossed/combined" and that "none-apparent traits have also been passed along, like more sensitivity to nutrients"
It can't be judged or assessed by the sum of it's parent's parts. I must be judged/assessed on what it, uniquely, is.
It's not A + B = C and C - B = A, that's why different phenotypes exist. The marriage exhibits MANY different variations
just in one pollenated plant....with all the same ingredients, from the same parents. In the first cross of an auto and a photo
some offspring will be auto and some will not. This "average" is expressed in a percentage number but that's not a "hard"
number, just a probability. Once you pick out two of those offspring that are both auto and mate them together, the percentage
of offspring that will turn out being auto increases and so forth. Going to F3 usually means that 100% of the offspring
will exhibit the auto trait...but that's not a guarantee, just a representation of probability. (I think I have that right

IDK, I just get the feeling you are getting hung up on particular assumptions that are under-serving your understanding of
it. Not that I completely understand Organic Chemistry or genetics either.

There are so many dynamics at play, that either aren't apparent to the eye or aren't being considered in the equation, that
come to bear on the reality of the situation. IDK, I just feel your frustration and I'm trying to offer an offramp in the cyclical
nature of "Well, "A" seems to be the case, and "B" seems to be the case so why isn't safe to assume that "C" is the case?

 

[Muddy]

Commercial growers are all about production and profit, where as most of us here are growing medicine. If a commercial grower is growing strains from clones that are 8 weeks flowering, he can potentially turn his flowering room over every 8 weeks by picking at the peak floral stage. If he let his plants go another week or two to reach the late floral stage, the point where THC is breaking down into CBN, he will potentially lose a full grow a year and the associated profits. Quoting Robert C. Clarke in his must read book, Marijuana Botany:

Late floral clusters exhibit the full potential of resin production, aromatic principles, and psychoactive effect. Complex mixtures of many monoterpene and sesquiterpene hydrocarbons along with alcohols, ethers, esters and ketones determine the aroma and flavor of mature cannabis. The levels of the basic terpens and their polymerized byproducts fluctuates as the resin ripens. The aroma of fresh floral clusters are usually preserved after drying, as by the late floral stage, a high proportion of ripe risins are present on the mature calyxes of the fresh plant. Cannabinoid producton favors high THC acid and rising CBN acid content at this stge since most active biosynthesis has ceased and more THC acid is being broken down into CBN acid than is being produced from CBD acid. This tends to produce marijuana characterized by more somatic and sedative effects. Some cultivators prefer this to the more cerebral and clear psychoactivity of the peak floral stage.

So to get the best medicine you should pick your plants during the late floral stage.

There are several reasons why we recommend waiting until the fan leaves are yellowed and falling off before picking. By the time the plants reach that point they are in the late floral stage. The plant knows it's dying so will put all it's efforts into reproduction. If it's a seeded plant, energy goes to producing seeds. If it's a sensi plant, the energy goes into the final bud production. We can promote this through such things as lowering temps and humidity. In hydro this is particularly effective by lowering res and room temps, RH, and less food. In effect, simulating what would take place naturally outdoors as the season draws to a close. The plant will begin to feed off the energy stored in the big fan leaves and they will yellow and die off. So by telling auto growers to wait until that point to harvest, they can be assured they are picking their plants at a time that will yield the best medicine. Also, many auto strains, especially those grown under low UV light sources like T5, CFL and LEDs, won't show amber trics. Ambering is the plants self defense mechanism to prevent THC degradation so with little UV from those light sources, ambering doesn't occur. It's been my experience in helping new growers that the concept of waiting until the fan leaves are gone is much easier for them to grasp than waiting for a plant that may not display any amber.

If you want more information on this subject I would highly recommend that you pick up a copy of Marijuana Botany, available on Amazon. There are also places on line where you can find it. As I said, it's a must read for any serious grower or breeder.

 

[fweedom]

im with ya on that one magic, it seems my larger photoperiod plants don't get nearly as yellow as my autos did.

i flush for the same amount of time and my autos would always get nice and yellow but the photos i grow that are much larger dont yellow out that much...some do still quite a bit but honestly after a 2 week flush ive had some photos still be so green that i didnt wanna chop them cause i thought they could get fatter since they were soo green still, while the autos i grew would start to yellow after just a few waterings of plain water :tiphat:

 

[Magic]

"flushing" or "cleansing" is a garden myth according to what I've read. Tests have shown it does nothing to alter the mineral, etc content of the plant. All it does it use up the sugars that are stored in the roots, MG etc, are not transportable. The "smoke test" is also a fallacy, it has nothing to do with how much Mg is in the plant, its related to moisture content. But 47 people will swear the science is wrong because they know it works...lol.

Hey pop from what I hear and read more I've seen little to no people argue not to flush besides commerical growers. Don't get me wrong I have science on the matter I just trust the people that have been doing this since long before I was born.
I people on other forums argue not to flush and some makes some good points or it seems but I've yet to see anyone write a full blown article not to flush. I use a flushing agent then run a 7-10 water diet. From experience I've smoked none flushed plants and they have a worst taste and what seems like a more forced high to them. Not trying to agrue with you but would like to see hoe you ultimately came to the decision not to flush any of your plants