Olderfart is in the infirmary again.

Gypsum will work to add a bit of calcium without magnesium. It will add some sulfur but you do not need to add much to get the calcium you are looking for so the sulfur should be ok.
The deed is done, reservoir cleaned, new filter put in, filled with 750 EC MC at 6.4 pH. We will see how that goes. At this point cal mag is my only available option for calcium so I will just see how the ladies do on the extra dose from MC only before deciding what more might be needed.
 
:smoking: Hey OF, Happy New Year! :passit:

I'm blaming the GLN's ridiculous K levels, especially combined with BE! Weak on P too, IMO..... Too much K screws with several other nutes, mainly cations; seen some confusing back and forth about it's interaction with P, but mostly P is not listed as antagonized in uptake....

View attachment 1271748
--> APTUS SCIENCE PAGE 26 • THE APTUS BIBLETHE APTUS BIBLE • PAGE 25ANTAGONISTIC ACTION OF NUTRIENTS

It is very important to understand how certain nutrients react with each other. If you don’t understand these interactions, you may over-supplement with a specific nutrient in attempt to correct a deficiency.Not all deficiencies are caused by a lack of nutrients! For example, Calcium deficiency may be diagnosed due to low Calcium levels OR because there are high levels of Nitrates (NO3). Nitrates ‘push’ Calcium away and can block absorption. So you should use organic Nitrogen instead of inorganic Nitrogen, which is high in Nitrates. Many modern synthetic fertilizers contain primary Nitrates or other salt-based forms of nitrogen. The salts are the most common cause of tip burn, nutrient antagonism, and weak plant growth (more on that later).
The antagonistic action of nutrients shows how overdoses of certain elements can lock out or displace another element. This list shows which elements react with each other. Understanding nutrient antagonism makes diagnosing deficiencies and excess more difficult, but ultimately more accurate.
Most nutrients usually work together. But this is not always the case. If Phosphorus is in excess it brings in more Nitrogen to the plant, unbalancing the nutrition. At the same time it also limits Zinc, Iron and Copper. Optimum nutrition is achieved by balancing the nutrients in the medium....

>>> This is an excerpt from the APTUS Grow Bible, a well put together review on things in general.... This chart is one of the better ones I've seen out there!
I linked it up for you above.... There are other tables and such in the Defc. Pic Depot, page 2....
This reminds me to slip this one in there, with some text :thumbsup:....
Lower fans are mainly looking like N tapping, but I see suspect P defc. elsewhere,... This is the bitch behind MC/GLN, it's very hard to tinker and adjust without driving up the ppms and/or adding in other extras you don't need! Worse, if you reduce the overall MC amount to lower ppm's some to make "room" for a PK booster, you short out on everything else that's in there = :doh:.... This why I have walked away from GLN,... I did use FuxFams Open Sesame, 5-45-19 I think, for a PK booster...
Ca-Mg supp;'s are redundent at best, and a major problem causer at worst! they are behind a lot of troubles with antagonistic uptake, an easy vicious circle to get caught in

Brother, if you are growing just auto's, I'd seriously look into KIS Organics Nutrient pack. This is a dry amendment you mix into premium soil and let cook for a couple weeks, easy-peasy! From there, it's basically water only; I only add in Si, occasional micronutes (Earth Juice Microblast), inoculants (Recharge which has kelp and molasses in it too), and I confess, my butt clenching caused by other so=called water-only stuff had me lightly supp'ing in some organic PK during early-mid bloom... I've only done one run, and the mixing ratio will take some dialing in (happy to share my info) to make it not too hot, and still have the goods to last full cycle... 9L pots... Actually, the last parts of my photo grow journal using KIS included the final run of the season in the tent using auto's; Green Poison, Honey Peach, and Nashira. Hit my link and search toward the end... Prior to this I was testing the Prescription Blend 6-part system, also very good IMO if you want to roll with a mixed synthetic/organic system. It tested very well! I loved the way they broke up the parts, allowing you to make custom adjustments if needed, even do foliars with the Si and humic-fulvic parts of it!
I have been suspicious of the lower phosphorus and high potassium levels in the one part MC too. I do have some straight RAW phosphorus if that would allow tweaking a bit. I will wait to see how the girls do on the new mix and adjust accordingly in four or five days or so.

I am not keen on diving into a different nute system yet. I don't grow much, and can only do one grow per year, so efficiency is not that important to me. As long as I can nurse the girls to the finish line more or less healthy, I will be happy. Nonetheless, I appreciate your suggestion, and will keep it in mind for the future.

As to the cal mag, I am trying to avoid it. I used some earlier in the grow, but prefer to leave it on the shelf. With the peat mix and MC only, I may not need either cal or mag, I will watch to see what shows up and try to sort it early.

@Waira, what do you think about the two part MC? I have not checked it out, but I gather from other comments that it is far easier to manipulate the mix with the two part.

Anyway, thanks very much for posting, I appreciate your help. :thanks:and Happy New Year! Stay safe my friend, January is going to be an interesting month.
 
For sure I would not do a foliar for calcium. The MC may be enough by itself?
I am going to stick with MC only for several days and see whether calcium proves to be an issue. Thanks again for all the help MOG! :thanks:
 
Hey @Waira, do you think MOG meant EC or ppm when he suggested 700-800 max for autos? I am thinking ppm given the other stuff I have dug up in the meantime, my confusion, not his. If ppm, I need to start ramping up the EC. 750 is not going to do it.
 
I have been suspicious of the lower phosphorus and high potassium levels in the one part MC too. I do have some straight RAW phosphorus if that would allow tweaking a bit. I will wait to see how the girls do on the new mix and adjust accordingly in four or five days or so.
I see a lot of mixed results with this line-up, some great, others not so much; often it's transition--> bloom when the hiccups start! I've felt the same thing all along with GLN, tried them right when they came out. Their formulation is constantly changing, to their credit, but IMO there is still no one-size-fits-all in nutrients. Too much variance between the many cultivar's needs and tolerances, then you factor in the grow methods and all that, and you end up with back on the steep learning curve... MC may be simpler, but it's not gonna be the best way to go about it often as not. There is a price for "simplicity"....
...Meantime a light hit with the RAW is worth a shot!


I am not keen on diving into a different nute system yet. I don't grow much, and can only do one grow per year, so efficiency is not that important to me. As long as I can nurse the girls to the finish line more or less healthy, I will be happy. Nonetheless, I appreciate your suggestion, and will keep it in mind for the future.
Maybe they will sponsor a new round and you could get in on it? That's TBD so far, but a good chance to have happen! Look into them just for fun in any case... It's a straight forward 6-part gig, it even comes with pipettes for each part for fast simple measuring :thumbsup:... I think it would be a nice fit for you....
Alternatively, you could go fully organic with a "water only" super soil made with KIS Organics Nutrient pack; just mix it in a premium soil, let cook for a couple weeks, and you're good! I use quotes on that because supp's like Si, humic-fulvic, inoculants (critical IMO) and occasional micronutes are solid recommendations, even a light hit of PK boost during bloom will pay dividends... My last auto run in 9L pots did great, aside from the mix being a tad hot! The OD photo's did fantastic initially, too good in fact; they were in only 10gal pots, got big and ate up the soils reserves by early blooming so I had to supp' with feeds to finish.... All my bad, it was a gamble to try this with no staged transplants into fresh soil...:rolleyes2:
Anyway, just some food for thought my man! :pass:

>>> the EC of 750, is that 0.75 microS/750 milliSiemens?
EC is the best way to go, as the TDS-ppm scale is a bloody non-standardized mess! Have a peek here to see what I mean...
...pretty sure he meant ppm, but what scale is the question! I assume it's the 1.0EC = 500ppm one,....
 
I see a lot of mixed results with this line-up, some great, others not so much; often it's transition--> bloom when the hiccups start! I've felt the same thing all along with GLN, tried them right when they came out. Their formulation is constantly changing, to their credit, but IMO there is still no one-size-fits-all in nutrients. Too much variance between the many cultivar's needs and tolerances, then you factor in the grow methods and all that, and you end up with back on the steep learning curve... MC may be simpler, but it's not gonna be the best way to go about it often as not. There is a price for "simplicity"....
...Meantime a light hit with the RAW is worth a shot!



Maybe they will sponsor a new round and you could get in on it? That's TBD so far, but a good chance to have happen! Look into them just for fun in any case... It's a straight forward 6-part gig, it even comes with pipettes for each part for fast simple measuring :thumbsup:... I think it would be a nice fit for you....
Alternatively, you could go fully organic with a "water only" super soil made with KIS Organics Nutrient pack; just mix it in a premium soil, let cook for a couple weeks, and you're good! I use quotes on that because supp's like Si, humic-fulvic, inoculants (critical IMO) and occasional micronutes are solid recommendations, even a light hit of PK boost during bloom will pay dividends... My last auto run in 9L pots did great, aside from the mix being a tad hot! The OD photo's did fantastic initially, too good in fact; they were in only 10gal pots, got big and ate up the soils reserves by early blooming so I had to supp' with feeds to finish.... All my bad, it was a gamble to try this with no staged transplants into fresh soil...:rolleyes2:
Anyway, just some food for thought my man! :pass:

>>> the EC of 750, is that 0.75 microS/750 milliSiemens?
EC is the best way to go, as the TDS-ppm scale is a bloody non-standardized mess! Have a peek here to see what I mean...
...pretty sure he meant ppm, but what scale is the question! I assume it's the 1.0EC = 500ppm one,....
He uses the hanna scale, so 750 on mine is 325 on his. Yeah, getting everyone on EC would be a bloody worthwhile improvement. The meters are all measuring milli or microsiemens anyway, why not just use it and get rid of the confusion. Anyway, I have to assume that MOG meant ppm. Assuming otherwise would make his suggestion very inconsistent with both the GL recommendations and experience of a lot of other growers. So, since he seems to be on a well deserved day off, I will crank EC up in steps, the first being to ~1000 to see how the ladies like it after a few days.

I may well tweak things a bit with the Raw phosphorus. It seems to me that it is mainly the pk balance that might not be right for flowering with the one part MC. OTOH, I am new at this, they should know a hell of a lot more about it than I do. As you do, I suspect that dialing the MC back and adding BE may be dialing down micros at the same time, and the BE still seems to hot on K for my liking. Grumble.

Raw to the rescue, perhaps. Thanks for getting back to me. :thanks:
 
:smoking: check that APTUS link, there's a great graph in there showing when and to what degree various nute elements are best applied,...high P is needed early-mid bloom, it tapers off pretty fast after that; K follower similarly after....
MC is a shotgun blast, that's the main problem. (Too much N for blooming too, IMO; nobody but nobody has such high N input content in their bloom stage formulations. I think it tends to leaf-up the buds more, seen in several comparison side-by-side grows, same cultivar too BTW)) ....There's a reason they have to tinker so much with the formulation, they are quite ambitious to attempt this one-part thing,... It "works", but there are caveats to be sure, and plenty of possible hitches when things don't go smoothly.... I know many will argue this, but after trying it myself for a few rounds, with 2 reformulations, and all I see around here and in Sick Bay, that's my conclusion....
..happy to help mate! :toke:
 
Sorry for the confusion I always quote in the Hanna scale of PPM. Here is a chart of equivalencies:

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