Olderfart is in the infirmary again.

Will do. I will check the npk marked on my package and get back to you if they are different than what you say. Given that the plants are now at ~700EC (350ppm), what would you suggest for ppm of MC alone?

Any suggestions for adding a bit of calcium but no magnesium?
 
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I think this is the version 2? 10-7-18 should be plenty for flower on the P-K. Using the snow you might need just a little bit of calcium. The thing is the plants look like you are experiencing phosphorus lock out from too much potassium so stop the BE.
My version says 9-6-17, so just slightly heavier on the potassium and lighter on phosphorus. No idea which version it is, maybe it is #1, I was assuming #2 because of the date I bought it.
 
@Olderfart my pleasure to help if I can. I do know that ph issues can always alter nutrient uptake so I would before adding anything check that first. In my beginnings I didn’t check ph because I used distilled water and didn’t think to check it. Damn I was so wrong. Blue catfish 18 & 24 pounder
Good suggestion on the pH. As far as I can tell, pH has always been fine, never outside 6.2-6.5 either on nute input or on runoff when I flushed. I keep a pretty sharp eye on it with my Apera.

I am pretty sure that what I have going on is hunger, nute imbalance, or a bit of both. Sounds like I will just increase the EC and ditch the BE for now, but I am still working on it with @Mañ'O'Green.

Thanks again for chiming in. :pighug:
 
Will do. I will check the npk marked on my package and get back to you if they are different than what you say. Given that the plants are now at ~700EC (350ppm), what would you suggest for ppm of MC alone?

Any suggestions for adding a bit of calcium but no magnesium?
700 to 800 is tops for Autos.
 
700 to 800 is tops for Autos.
In which case I will get rid of the existing nutes, and replace with straight MC at 750EC, pH~6.4 and see what transpires in the next few days. I still need a suggestion for calcium without magnesium if you have one, although going with straight MC will increase Ca a bit. Thanks for your help MOG much appreciated, and before I forget again, Happy New Year!
 
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In which case I will get rid of the existing nutes, and replace with straight MC at 750EC, pH~6.4 and see what transpires in the next few days. I still need a suggestion for calcium without magnesium if you have one, although going with straight MC will increase Ca a bit. Thanks for your help MOG much appreciated, and before I forget again, Happy New Year!
Gypsum will work to add a bit of calcium without magnesium. It will add some sulfur but you do not need to add much to get the calcium you are looking for so the sulfur should be ok.
 
700 to 800 is tops for Autos.
How about foliar calcium citrate? I have some of that around in pill form. It should be absorbable, and I could mix some up with yucca. I also have fulvic if that might help.
 
Gypsum will work to add a bit of calcium without magnesium. It will add some sulfur but you do not need to add much to get the calcium you are looking for so the sulfur should be ok.
Just dug up fact that Calcium citrate is not very soluble in water, so that option is off the table for now. I may just do the MC and see how the girls respond.
 
Just dug up fact that Calcium citrate is not very soluble in water, so that option is off the table for now. I may just do the MC and see how the girls respond.
For sure I would not do a foliar for calcium. The MC may be enough by itself?
 
:smoking: Hey OF, Happy New Year! :passit:

I'm blaming the GLN's ridiculous K levels, especially combined with BE! Weak on P too, IMO..... Too much K screws with several other nutes, mainly cations; seen some confusing back and forth about it's interaction with P, but mostly P is not listed as antagonized in uptake....

P1090781.JPG

--> APTUS SCIENCE PAGE 26 • THE APTUS BIBLETHE APTUS BIBLE • PAGE 25ANTAGONISTIC ACTION OF NUTRIENTS

It is very important to understand how certain nutrients react with each other. If you don’t understand these interactions, you may over-supplement with a specific nutrient in attempt to correct a deficiency.Not all deficiencies are caused by a lack of nutrients! For example, Calcium deficiency may be diagnosed due to low Calcium levels OR because there are high levels of Nitrates (NO3). Nitrates ‘push’ Calcium away and can block absorption. So you should use organic Nitrogen instead of inorganic Nitrogen, which is high in Nitrates. Many modern synthetic fertilizers contain primary Nitrates or other salt-based forms of nitrogen. The salts are the most common cause of tip burn, nutrient antagonism, and weak plant growth (more on that later).
The antagonistic action of nutrients shows how overdoses of certain elements can lock out or displace another element. This list shows which elements react with each other. Understanding nutrient antagonism makes diagnosing deficiencies and excess more difficult, but ultimately more accurate.
Most nutrients usually work together. But this is not always the case. If Phosphorus is in excess it brings in more Nitrogen to the plant, unbalancing the nutrition. At the same time it also limits Zinc, Iron and Copper. Optimum nutrition is achieved by balancing the nutrients in the medium....

>>> This is an excerpt from the APTUS Grow Bible, a well put together review on things in general.... This chart is one of the better ones I've seen out there!
I linked it up for you above.... There are other tables and such in the Defc. Pic Depot, page 2....
This reminds me to slip this one in there, with some text :thumbsup:....
Lower fans are mainly looking like N tapping, but I see suspect P defc. elsewhere,... This is the bitch behind MC/GLN, it's very hard to tinker and adjust without driving up the ppms and/or adding in other extras you don't need! Worse, if you reduce the overall MC amount to lower ppm's some to make "room" for a PK booster, you short out on everything else that's in there = :doh:.... This why I have walked away from GLN,... I did use FuxFams Open Sesame, 5-45-19 I think, for a PK booster...
Ca-Mg supp;'s are redundent at best, and a major problem causer at worst! they are behind a lot of troubles with antagonistic uptake, an easy vicious circle to get caught in

Brother, if you are growing just auto's, I'd seriously look into KIS Organics Nutrient pack. This is a dry amendment you mix into premium soil and let cook for a couple weeks, easy-peasy! From there, it's basically water only; I only add in Si, occasional micronutes (Earth Juice Microblast), inoculants (Recharge which has kelp and molasses in it too), and I confess, my butt clenching caused by other so=called water-only stuff had me lightly supp'ing in some organic PK during early-mid bloom... I've only done one run, and the mixing ratio will take some dialing in (happy to share my info) to make it not too hot, and still have the goods to last full cycle... 9L pots... Actually, the last parts of my photo grow journal using KIS included the final run of the season in the tent using auto's; Green Poison, Honey Peach, and Nashira. Hit my link and search toward the end... Prior to this I was testing the Prescription Blend 6-part system, also very good IMO if you want to roll with a mixed synthetic/organic system. It tested very well! I loved the way they broke up the parts, allowing you to make custom adjustments if needed, even do foliars with the Si and humic-fulvic parts of it!
 
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