Lighting Recipes & Usage

Okay.

So I watched the presentation, I did not listen to the discussion.

This leads me to think- I do not need to add uv lighting to my gavita, it will only HURT my crop.

Far red can be good, but if I have a good light, it doesn't really matter and it an unneeded complication?

Is this what everyone else got from that?

What I understood was that UVB by their research was ineffective and even damaging. UVA was shown to have benefits but more efficiently delivered in the 400-440nm range.

They added Far Red throughout the cycle rather than for End of Day to manipulate Phytochrome.
 
What I understood was that UVB by their research was ineffective and even damaging. UVA was shown to have benefits but more efficiently delivered in the 400-440nm range.

They added Far Red throughout the cycle rather than for End of Day to manipulate Phytochrome.
Right. But didn’t they say just a good light with high ppfd would be close to as good? I’m not saying there aren’t benefits, but this is having me hold off on that gavita uv add on or any extra puck lighting.
 
Right. But didn’t they say just a good light with high ppfd would be close to as good? I’m not saying there aren’t benefits, but this is having me hold off on that gavita uv add on or any extra puck lighting.
Well that's just the thing.. right it's working out a Light Recipes for the strain that you're running. Once you figure out that... Bingo... Because they don't have all the answers yet... it's work in process... So working with and knowing your plant and then working with it back and forth until you come up with the desired outcome that you're looking for by using light recipes and of course nutrition and CO2 if you got it. And all the things that go with growing. You would tune it just like you would a NASCAR... Take note's for each grow you run. Dialling in each grow. It takes time.
 
Well that's just the thing.. right it's working out a Light Recipes for the strain that you're running. Once you figure out that... Bingo... Because they don't have all the answers yet... it's work in process... So working with and knowing your plant and then working with it back and forth until you come up with the desired outcome that you're looking for by using light recipes and of course nutrition and CO2 if you got it. And all the things that go with growing. You would tune it just like you would a NASCAR... Take note's for each grow you run. Dialling in each grow. It takes time.
I just pulled back the red on my canna cheese because it was just burning it seemed like and the buds almost are stalling. Will see how it is at a lower mix. Scynce recommended to flower 80% red but it seemed to be a bit much. Back to 65%
 
That was an interesting afternoon read, thanks for posting it. One message potentially useful for us indoor growers of autos is that results suggest that initiation of flowering may be the time that cannabis increased yield responds to higher illumination. Preliminary suggestion, but perhaps we need to ramp up to full illumination earlier than I thought.
Im thinking for auto plant lighting.
I would start from seed with full power 20/4 with a 32k full spectrum light sources until the 3 week of flowering or until the end of the stretch. Then flip the light to 40k or 42k more white full spectrum. And then add some deep blue for 3 to 6 hour's a day for the last 2 week's before harvesting.
Just thinking out loud... But this mite be a good starting point. ?
 
I just pulled back the red on my canna cheese because it was just burning it seemed like and the buds almost are stalling. Will see how it is at a lower mix. Scynce recommended to flower 80% red but it seemed to be a bit much. Back to 65%
Do you have any pics of her ?
The more red light waves are not burning it. (unless your to close)
But more red light tells your plant is that it doesn't have to protect itself from the UV because the red side doesn't have a lot of UV. so actually what you're really seeing is is bleaching. The plant doesn't need to color itself with pigments. The more red side is nice light. That's what the plant thinks.
 
Right. But didn’t they say just a good light with high ppfd would be close to as good? I’m not saying there aren’t benefits, but this is having me hold off on that gavita uv add on or any extra puck lighting.

I don't think you would need anything as you are. It would be interesting to see any differences but I don't think it's necessary.
 
Do you have any pics of her ?
The more red light waves are not burning it. (unless your to close)
But more red light tells your plant is that it doesn't have to protect itself from the UV because the red side doesn't have a lot of UV. so actually what you're really seeing is is bleaching. The plant doesn't need to color itself with pigments. The more red side is nice light. That's what the plant thinks.
maybe the light is too close then, although the plant looks to be looking a little better since I lowered the balance. I was having issues with burning before and I moved it up, but maybe its caught back up and needs to be raised a little again, I should go measure the height.
 
Im thinking for auto plant lighting.
I would start from seed with full power 20/4 with a 32k full spectrum light sources until the 3 week of flowering or until the end of the stretch. Then flip the light to 40k or 42k more white full spectrum. And then add some deep blue for 3 to 6 hour's a day for the last 2 week's before harvesting.
Just thinking out loud... But this mite be a good starting point. ?
Dunno mate, your guess may be as good as mine.

FWIW, my approach in future will be to start seedlings on 24/0 until at least a couple sets of real leaves are out, then ramp over to 20/4 for the rest of the grow.

As to spectrum, with my screw ins, all my plants have tended to the squat side when I biased spectrum toward the 5500K bulbs, so I am beginning to think that they need more red early to stretch a bit more. In the last two grows, I have used mostly the 5500K bulbs until flowering, and then for flowering ramped over to mostly 2700K which have a lot more red. In future grows, I may start out ~50/50 of the two spectra, and then finish off with more of the 2700K during flowering. In the last grow, I added UVB bulbs for the last couple weeks. No idea whether it made any difference, but it may have, and there is room for the extra bulbs, so I will continue to add the UV in late flowering unless my information changes. I don't fuss with extra red, the 2700K bulbs have lots of it.

I now have a par meter, so I will be setting up to do DLI somewhere in the neighborhood of 45-60 mols/m2/d

Maybe you can interpret something useful from how I am using my screw ins, maybe not, but good luck with it either way. :pighug:
 
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