Grow Mediums Kindsoil Official Test Team Grow Battle

[Bromeo]

That Fantasmo is neat. I think I might have to get some more of those beans so a can grow our xmas tree this year. Lol. It's perfect for that. Ho ho ho

 

[Eyes on Fire]

I didnt show a pic but i got a fantasmo super girl popping up(fully up three days ago after less than 24 hr to the soil ) and looking forward to it. havent grow it myself yet but its a looker.LOL love to see your x mas tree man LOL!

 

[Eyes on Fire]

is that the one you top coated? looks like to pulled some foods from the soil nicely. I wanted to do that to my MS LOL nice lady there man. I hope mine looks as good. a wee bit of phatness going on there man

 

[Anthropolis]

Heyyyy errybody! Wooo y'all are really kicking booty here! Mine are mostly okay, a couple great and a couple not so great.

Two of the original seedlings are just stalled out just past the cotyl stage... I think it's the heat but oh well. They're technically alive so I'm keeping em going. Sadly they're two seedlings in the KindSoil, so they might be forever stunted and not make the best use of the KindSoil. Oh well, it's just how the dice rolls sometimes with using beans.

So here's the KindSoil gals, that one rockstar Cream Mandarine XL has definitely hit the buried treasure KindSoil haha. It's just blowing up, and doesn't seem to even notice the heat hah!

See the two stalled seedlings there, and they're the nice Sweet Seeds beans so I don't want to cull them. :/ If they were freebie beans I might have culled em already and started yet again. We'll see, some of my best plants started with troubles, stunts, or mutations. Funny how that works sometimes.

Here's the ones in just my soil, doing fair to well. No problems but no big growth spurts yet. I'd say they are about average for my plants at this stage.

Everybody does seem to like the Root Trapper II pots, it's clearly retaining water better (than the full fabric pots) and the state of the soil seems more uniform throughout. With those older style fabric pots, the soil seems to make these zones where it's crispy dry on top and around the sides, halfway moist in the center, and forever wet on the bottom. Root Trappers seem to be performing more smoothly.

Everyone all together now, those three mini trees in the middle are my awkward hempy solo cups attempt. Struggling to keep those fed and watered.

And I put the two strugglers back under humidity cups until they can get with the program lol and show me some real leaves.

 

[Pops]

Update Kind Soil Grow
Week 6 Day 43
3 Bear 2 of the lower fan leaves have yellow a bit. I had tucked them under to get better lite to lower Buds
Over all still looking good.

Week 6 day 43 Skywalker
The skywalker grew the most this week over taking the grape crinkle in height more bud sites also.
No yellowing of leave here just rocking it.

Week 6 Day 43
Grape Crinkle
The most frosty of the group looking soo good.
She also had some yellowing of some of the larger fan leaves,
at the bottom.

the color for all the girls is good
Week 6 Day 47
3 Bear 21" tall 20" wide darker Green over the other 2

Week 6 Day 47. Skywalker 32 " tall 17 " wide

Week 6 Day 47
Grape Crinkle 27" tall 17 " wide

Group shot

Still looking good
So Smoke that, I Will.
Bong is mine HaHa

pops

 

[Kindsoil]

@Kind Soil, now I got to question, why " no liquid" ph source be used? That makes no sense whatever. Maybe you failed to be specific in this. So why not lemon juice, or vinegar, etc for organic ph adjustment? and some people HAVE to use RO water. If its been properly treated with calmag ( at a reduced ppm, I'm using 60 ppm for the kind soil ) and properly ph'd I see no logical reason for it to be a problem, unless your mix is lacking in certain trace minerals/elements. Tell you what, I'll send you a couple gallons of my tap water, you'll be horrified at what it does to your plants!

without a better explanation, it sounds like a sales pitch ( not saying it is, just how it sounds ). So Why would these crystals be better? its all the same after it dissolves..

so sorry i got way behind with deliveries before we closed for a few days and I didn't have a chance to get back on here. citric acid has the benefit of chelating nutrients, making them more available to the plant rather than just adjusting ph alone. The citric acids don't build up in the media like phosphoric acids tend to. We have ran both side by side, when we run phosphoric acids through the entire grow, we PH tested the soil and it had dropped to 5.0 that exact same grow, same media from same bags and everything was ran with citric acid crystals and the PH of the media was 6.1 after flower. Clearly you can take into account maybe the OM in the soil weekend in one pot more than the other or something else but a difference of 1.1 is a large change in PH which really can only account for build up. A lot of people aren't taking into consideration most all of us never used acid to adjust plain water consistently and feed just that consistently. We would normally be using a lot of chemical or something in the water that causes the PH to drop and we raise it with a base. Very rarely are we using acids to adjust or if we do its for a once a week flush or something along that line. Its not something we use consistently. The other thing we were told about soils and phosphoric acids from fox farms was that at certain %levels Phosphoric acids can make the bio life in the soil slow and or die (at strong enough levels). now you can say what does that matter when its so weak or i use so little, but the issue isn't always with the levels it can be again with build up. Using that acid over and over without a flush could build up causing those issues. while speaking on residual you can take a liquid acid stick your finger in it and try washing it off, it takes quite a it to completely wash it off your hands its almost like a slimey/sticky feeling. you can take a handful of citric acid crystals and put them in your hand put a bit of water in it and scrub till it dissolves, even after your hands have soaked it up they aren't nasty or showing a phosphoric acid style burn.. other than that i can't really explain why people have really serious issues with phosphoric acids and hot soil. its just something we have seen over and over again.

I do have a question though if advanced nutrients was on here and stated to never use anything other than advanced PH products with their grows or you will have a horrible grow, would everyone say "they don't know what their talking about I'm going to do it another simpler way.." or would you follow what they say to the T because you trust they know what they are saying because they have done the trials and seen the issues with other companies PH products?

As for the vinegar and other options you mentioned I've said many times theres not a issue with that. If you only have a lemon available or vinegar fine, but its not what we recommend. to me theres no sense in going that route, is it okay yes but why not use a product designed for what your doing. thats almost like saying why buy a companies soil make your own every time... well fine but the companies that make soils not only have a very specific amount of mixes added to their products, theres wetting agents, specific amounts of limes to not only hold stable ph but not over shooting the starting PH. all those things aren't being done when your making the media, its a crap shoot unless your actually testing your soils and doing things properly. The citric acid crystals sold by earth juice. has been sold for years by them for the reason were using it, its also been tested over and over for organic growing. Clearly that doesn't mean everyones going to like the product its just what we recommend because we have seen issues when using Phosphoric acids and when the same growers changed to citric acid crystals they never had another issue.

the RO water thing which i also have responded to a few times, its not that we say you cannot use it, we just don't suggest it over 3 part filters (pre, carbon , post) they are more than adequate in almost every case to remove the majority of your water toxin, RO really removes fluorides, viruses and any excess contaminants that make it through. The majority of all your toxic crap is taken out through the three part system before it goes to the RO membrane. As i said before everyones water is different and everyone has to choose what works for them, But making a bunch of RO water just to put a cal-mag chemical mixture back into the system isn't something i would personally suggest with organic growing but everyone has their own ways. Ph balancing 0ppm water can really be a pain also some meters don't properly read 0ppm water. (clearly that can be changed by adding cal-mag like your suggesting)


I just want to be very clear we SUGGEST things for our growers because we've seen the issues growers have had over the years with our system and things like RO/water and PH balancing or Phosphoric acids. Im not on here stating this is the only way to do it and thats that. We are giving suggestions on what has always worked best for our growers and on top of that all our suggestions are for our system and our system only. Im not on here telling growers how to run their current grows, we are on here telling people what works best with kind soil and kind soil grows only.

 

[Ripper]

Excellent reply

 

[Kindsoil]

Its kinda like 7.2-7.5 water PH levels are they safe? well generally they shouldn't ever be a problem using it but some people do have growth issues with water PH levels over 7.2 and growing organic cannabis. Some don't have noticeable ones, but i can notice it in grows compared to grows with slightly acidic water. High PH levels show slower growth, plants tend to grow more upward than bushy and high water ph levels also tend to show slow nitrogen uptake. so instead of saying "well a ph range of 6.3-7.5 shouldn't cause issues, then we deal with things like; growers using 7.5 or 7.6 water (because they think its close enough) and having the uptake issue or slow growth etc.. we state that the safest way to make sure your not having issues, is if your water PH is over 7.1 we suggest PH adjusting the water to be in the proper ranges for organic cannabis (6.3-6.8) If its under that we don't suggest doing anything to the water. But thats not going to work for everyone. One guy in one county can have amazing 100ppm 6.8 tap water and maybe someone another county over has a 600ppm 6.8 his general hardness is more than yours or its nasty water, but they carry a useable PH. It doesn't mean that just because their ph is on point, they are going to have amazing/successful tap water grow. Using that bad/dirty water that may cause issues with the grow especially depending on what's in that water.. so that specific grower may need to go the extra step of filtering water so that the hardness isn't effecting the grow. When the other grower wouldn't have to do that. Which we have also stated before. if your waters good clean water use it, if it requires filtering filter it.. but it always comes to what is needed for each grower because none of us are on the exact same "everything". from air temperatures, air humidity, water source, water ph, cleanliness etc.. everything can very. Its just having a plan of "okay i can use 3 filter system, citric acid crystals (if needed), recommended base media, just like kind soil recommends and i should be more than safe with there system." as opposed to seeing all these options and having issues using them, then getting mad and thinking its the kind soil. When its other things you as a grower maybe using we don't suggest because we have seen issues with it.

One last thing on the phosphoric acids is it raises the phosphate levels in the water which can cause issues again over time with build up. it doesn't seem like it can but you have to think about using it consistently over and over again without ever using any other water source, especially if your someone with a very high 8.0 water ph which requires a descent amount of buffering, build up can happen over time.

so sorry i got way behind with deliveries before we closed for a few days and I didn't have a chance to get back on here. citric acid has the benefit of chelating nutrients, making them more available to the plant rather than just adjusting ph alone. The citric acids don't build up in the media like phosphoric acids tend to. We have ran both side by side, when we run phosphoric acids through the entire grow, we PH tested the soil and it had dropped to 5.0 that exact same grow, same media from same bags and everything was ran with citric acid crystals and the PH of the media was 6.1 after flower. Clearly you can take into account maybe the OM in the soil weekend in one pot more than the other or something else but a difference of 1.1 is a large change in PH which really can only account for build up. A lot of people aren't taking into consideration most all of us never used acid to adjust plain water consistently and feed just that consistently. We would normally be using a lot of chemical or something in the water that causes the PH to drop and we raise it with a base. Very rarely are we using acids to adjust or if we do its for a once a week flush or something along that line. Its not something we use consistently. The other thing we were told about soils and phosphoric acids from fox farms was that at certain %levels Phosphoric acids can make the bio life in the soil slow and or die (at strong enough levels). now you can say what does that matter when its so weak or i use so little, but the issue isn't always with the levels it can be again with build up. Using that acid over and over without a flush could build up causing those issues. while speaking on residual you can take a liquid acid stick your finger in it and try washing it off, it takes quite a it to completely wash it off your hands its almost like a slimey/sticky feeling. you can take a handful of citric acid crystals and put them in your hand put a bit of water in it and scrub till it dissolves, even after your hands have soaked it up they aren't nasty or showing a phosphoric acid style burn.. other than that i can't really explain why people have really serious issues with phosphoric acids and hot soil. its just something we have seen over and over again.

I do have a question though if advanced nutrients was on here and stated to never use anything other than advanced PH products with their grows or you will have a horrible grow, would everyone say "they don't know what their talking about I'm going to do it another simpler way.." or would you follow what they say to the T because you trust they know what they are saying because they have done the trials and seen the issues with other companies PH products?

As for the vinegar and other options you mentioned I've said many times theres not a issue with that. If you only have a lemon available or vinegar fine, but its not what we recommend. to me theres no sense in going that route, is it okay yes but why not use a product designed for what your doing. thats almost like saying why buy a companies soil make your own every time... well fine but the companies that make soils not only have a very specific amount of mixes added to their products, theres wetting agents, specific amounts of limes to not only hold stable ph but not over shooting the starting PH. all those things aren't being done when your making the media, its a crap shoot unless your actually testing your soils and doing things properly. The citric acid crystals sold by earth juice. has been sold for years by them for the reason were using it, its also been tested over and over for organic growing. Clearly that doesn't mean everyones going to like the product its just what we recommend because we have seen issues when using Phosphoric acids and when the same growers changed to citric acid crystals they never had another issue.

the RO water thing which i also have responded to a few times, its not that we say you cannot use it, we just don't suggest it over 3 part filters (pre, carbon , post) they are more than adequate in almost every case to remove the majority of your water toxin, RO really removes fluorides, viruses and any excess contaminants that make it through. The majority of all your toxic crap is taken out through the three part system before it goes to the RO membrane. As i said before everyones water is different and everyone has to choose what works for them, But making a bunch of RO water just to put a cal-mag chemical mixture back into the system isn't something i would personally suggest with organic growing but everyone has their own ways. Ph balancing 0ppm water can really be a pain also some meters don't properly read 0ppm water. (clearly that can be changed by adding cal-mag like your suggesting)


I just want to be very clear we SUGGEST things for our growers because we've seen the issues growers have had over the years with our system and things like RO/water and PH balancing or Phosphoric acids. Im not on here stating this is the only way to do it and thats that. We are giving suggestions on what has always worked best for our growers and on top of that all our suggestions are for our system and our system only. Im not on here telling growers how to run their current grows, we are on here telling people what works best with kind soil and kind soil grows only.

 

[densemob]

Its kinda like 7.2-7.5 water PH levels are they safe? well generally they shouldn't ever be a problem using it but some people do have growth issues with water PH levels over 7.2 and growing organic cannabis. Some don't have noticeable ones, but i can notice it in grows compared to grows with slightly acidic water. High PH levels show slower growth, plants tend to grow more upward than bushy and high water ph levels also tend to show slow nitrogen uptake. so instead of saying "well a ph range of 6.3-7.5 shouldn't cause issues, then we deal with things like; growers using 7.5 or 7.6 water (because they think its close enough) and having the uptake issue or slow growth etc.. we state that the safest way to make sure your not having issues, is if your water PH is over 7.1 we suggest PH adjusting the water to be in the proper ranges for organic cannabis (6.3-6.8) If its under that we don't suggest doing anything to the water. But thats not going to work for everyone. One guy in one county can have amazing 100ppm 6.8 tap water and maybe someone another county over has a 600ppm 6.8 his general hardness is more than yours or its nasty water, but they carry a useable PH. It doesn't mean that just because their ph is on point, they are going to have amazing/successful tap water grow. Using that bad/dirty water that may cause issues with the grow especially depending on what's in that water.. so that specific grower may need to go the extra step of filtering water so that the hardness isn't effecting the grow. When the other grower wouldn't have to do that. Which we have also stated before. if your waters good clean water use it, if it requires filtering filter it.. but it always comes to what is needed for each grower because none of us are on the exact same "everything". from air temperatures, air humidity, water source, water ph, cleanliness etc.. everything can very. Its just having a plan of "okay i can use 3 filter system, citric acid crystals (if needed), recommended base media, just like kind soil recommends and i should be more than safe with there system." as opposed to seeing all these options and having issues using them, then getting mad and thinking its the kind soil. When its other things you as a grower maybe using we don't suggest because we have seen issues with it.

One last thing on the phosphoric acids is it raises the phosphate levels in the water which can cause issues again over time with build up. it doesn't seem like it can but you have to think about using it consistently over and over again without ever using any other water source, especially if your someone with a very high 8.0 water ph which requires a descent amount of buffering, build up can happen over time.

I have a freshwater fishtank now that I have been maintaining for a couple months now. Has anyone had successful grows with good yields using that as a water source? I initially got it because of the Revs book. Hopefully you've come across some organic growers using clean, healthy, properly ph'd freshwater fish tank water thatve had good results. I use my RO water to keep it supplied but I know there's plenty of good stuff in the tank once it's been at least a week. I ph weekly.

Sent from my SGH-T599N using Tapatalk

 

[Eyes on Fire]

read this book since it'll cover all of these things covered here. toxins,chelation processes and removal and the like. acids n ,well everything. eating of heavy metal you name it,biology remains king!! and all you need to do is swing the PH close(NOT EXACT) to where you need or give it a buffering helping hand like baking soda. and the living soil should almost always do the rest unless hard chems are present then you handle accordingly,but again, swing it close.and Im betting your results will improve. this is not a question answered to anyone specific ,this is just a general statement fellers,and ladies

but the snog was out and the MSA was too for a wee drink last evening and took some fresh of the morning pics for yaz. beaty man,smells perfectly floral sweet with that lemony OG mellow ya know n love. just a sweet mellow OG smoke. sorry the MSA was done the way she was but Ive already fixed that issue. and in all honesty I could see this technique being used across the board since it'll sole the leaching issue.less space or room to move and re pick up the leached or moving foods if leaching at all will not be removed from the soil or media as easily. bacteria and fungi retain the greatest amount of nutrients in their biomass,therby ending leaching nutrients from soil, and soilless media

the life and simple balance will eat the toxins exuded n so on,including but not limited to heavy metals ,heavy metals are toxic to organisms at 3 to 10ppm (0.01 to 0.02 mS)..


the yellowing is a prime example of leached foods in a shallow life bed.essentially thats whats been created with an over abundance of roots and feeding roots.only minimal life in that pot with a lack of foods available.