Indoor Growing Scrog

[Mongoose]

For particularly thick branches, you could also consider using pliers wrapped in tape to protect them. I used this method myself for the toughest stems (I saw 420's pliers in a photo somewhere here in this thread.). Even then, I was extremely cautious.

Got it, thanks guys!

 

[FastPace]

You've got it going on, those buds are mature enough for you to take the remaining large fans off. Even if they don't block light, they'll be consuming energy which you want diverted to your kolas.

I get the apprehension, my first few times stripping was never enough. You really can get brutal with these autos. My goal when using this method is to aim for a 1lb a plat dry yield.

I’m a new grower who just finished my photoperiod soil grow and I’m interested in the 420autoflower SCROG method. Read 420autoflower posts and would like to ask some questions. Can I ask on this thread even if I don’t grow autoflowers?

 

[LibreLoud]

Hey! I made an account just so I can say THANK YOU for posting such valuable information online.

As someone who just recently switched to growing in Rockwool, there seems to be a huge lack of information available for rockwool growing (at least compared to soil).

Your "420autoflower scrog method" is easily the best training method I have seen for rockwool plants. I'm trying to implement it for my current grow and I'm already seeing a ton of tight internodal spacing and evenly spaced chutes. Thanks again! Attached some pics

I'm using plant wire instead of a coathanger, seems like it's working nicely so far.

I’m a new grower who just finished my photoperiod soil grow and I’m interested in the 420autoflower SCROG method. Read 420autoflower posts and would like to ask some questions. Can I ask on this thread even if I don’t grow autoflowers?

I'm growing photos too. What are your questions?

 

[Mongoose]

Hey! I made an account just so I can say THANK YOU for posting such valuable information online.

As someone who just recently switched to growing in Rockwool, there seems to be a huge lack of information available for rockwool growing (at least compared to soil).

Your "420autoflower scrog method" is easily the best training method I have seen for rockwool plants. I'm trying to implement it for my current grow and I'm already seeing a ton of tight internodal spacing and evenly spaced chutes. Thanks again! Attached some pics

I'm using plant wire instead of a coathanger, seems like it's working nicely so far.


I'm growing photos too. What are your questions?

I'm 15 days into my first rockwool 420-method grow, after three previous DWC grows ( all-water ), and having regarded the roots that grew through the 4" rockwool blocks, I can tell you that they were much thicker in diameter than DWC roots, and the plants are way ahead of what the DWC plants were at 15 days.

 

[DOA]

I’m a new grower who just finished my photoperiod soil grow and I’m interested in the 420autoflower SCROG method. Read 420autoflower posts and would like to ask some questions. Can I ask on this thread even if I don’t grow autoflowers?

This is definitely the right place

 

[MN8484]

Pulled all of them down today on the net and did a heavy second defol at the same time.

here is before

View attachment 1721365
I have the second cheap ordinary plastic net not the nylon, but didnt but it on yet since the pulldown was semi successful.

Also added 2 support colums for the net

here is after

View attachment 1721366

View attachment 1721367
View attachment 1721370


What do you guys think did I do the 2 defol too early, I did it because I put the scrog lower at the same time ?

1 heavy defol and scrogg 25.11 was late 1 week flowers already developing on tops.
2 heavy defol 12.12, all the lower fan leaves, some of the upper fan leaves on the ones that had good sugar leaf production and some buds already

Now I read somewhere that that 2 defol should be done more lightly.

View attachment 1721404


View attachment 1721405

All of them shooted nicely up since yesterdays defol and rescrogging

 

[TristanTheDestroyer]

Hey my friends, can I please get some advice on light intensity and distance I should be with my 240watt LED fixture from my canopy for 420A's Scrog Method? It's a high intensity dimmable full spectrum LED.

- I'm at day 7 seedling stage and have real slow growth compared to where I think I should be. I've have had my 240Watt full spectrum LED 45cm from the canopy with roughly 12ish dli. After reading your post the other day, Mongoose, I seen you mentioned you have had your LED's at 15 - 20cm from your seedlings pushing 55dli. I've gone ahead and set mine to what you have going on and am monitoring. I'm assuming this is to push the seedlings hard for rapid growth? So yeah wondering whats the general consensus with that. Cheers all, I'll pop a picture up here so you can see the slow progress. No roots showing through the rockwool yet..

Feeding till runoff with Green Planet Duel Fuel + Vitathrive. pH @ 6.0, EC @ 0.8.
24hrs Lights on, 23 - 25 degrees C, 55 - 65%Humidity

Cheers All!

 

[FastPace]

Hello growers,



I just finished my first grow-in soil. It was a slow pace so I wanted to move to hydro. I’m looking into coco/perlite 50/50 in autopots or drip irrigation. While I was on week 3 I found out about the 420autoflower SCROG method and man I was hooked I know I’m just a noob here but I would like to learn this growing method and maybe you would help me guys. I’m going to get more experience by growing photoperiod because autoflowers are fast and it’s not for the first time growers. Everything must be dialed in from the start. Later I want to move to autoflowers but until then I want to get more experience. Thank you guys for any help or direction!

1. For photoperiod do you run 18/6 lights in veg or longer?
2. Do you top photoperiod or just bend the main branch and let it grow?
3. I’m thinking about 7-gallon 50/50 coco/perlite. Is it enough or you would run a bigger or smaller pot?
4. I’m thinking about Autopot 7-gallon plastic 4 pots. Can I use it or is it better to use a drip irrigation system?
5. How long would you veg photoperiod plant until the flip?
6. Do you use Silica? I wonder if you would use Silica from the beginning, wouldn’t your plant branches would be hard to SCROG?
7. SCROG photoperiod 10 days later after a flip? Not before the flip? My buddy advised me to super-crop one week before a flip to recover. But you know better guys.
8. How do you use Mykos? I read that Mykos is not good in the reservoir.
9. Are these nutrients good?

1. Terra Aquatica Maxi Grow

2. Terra Aquatica Maxi Bloom

3. Terra Aquatica Pro Roots

4. Terra Aquatica Pro Bloom

5. Mykos

6. Clonex



I have a 13x13x7 room. I have an exhaust fan, humidifier, and dehumidifier that suit this big room. I can control the environment with no problems. I grew on well water which has 340ppm. I'm getting an RO filter now. I have an 800w EVO Kingbrite light. I'm thinking about 4 plants per light. Is it enough guys? I'm thinking about getting two more lights. More plants more learning curveIf you could help me or guide me in the right direction that would be great! Have a great grow guys!

 

[Cascade]

Hello growers,



I just finished my first grow-in soil. It was a slow pace so I wanted to move to hydro. I’m looking into coco/perlite 50/50 in autopots or drip irrigation. While I was on week 3 I found out about the 420autoflower SCROG method and man I was hooked I know I’m just a noob here but I would like to learn this growing method and maybe you would help me guys. I’m going to get more experience by growing photoperiod because autoflowers are fast and it’s not for the first time growers. Everything must be dialed in from the start. Later I want to move to autoflowers but until then I want to get more experience. Thank you guys for any help or direction!

1. For photoperiod do you run 18/6 lights in veg or longer?
2. Do you top photoperiod or just bend the main branch and let it grow?
3. I’m thinking about 7-gallon 50/50 coco/perlite. Is it enough or you would run a bigger or smaller pot?
4. I’m thinking about Autopot 7-gallon plastic 4 pots. Can I use it or is it better to use a drip irrigation system?
5. How long would you veg photoperiod plant until the flip?
6. Do you use Silica? I wonder if you would use Silica from the beginning, wouldn’t your plant branches would be hard to SCROG?
7. SCROG photoperiod 10 days later after a flip? Not before the flip? My buddy advised me to super-crop one week before a flip to recover. But you know better guys.
8. How do you use Mykos? I read that Mykos is not good in the reservoir.
9. Are these nutrients good?

1. Terra Aquatica Maxi Grow

2. Terra Aquatica Maxi Bloom

3. Terra Aquatica Pro Roots

4. Terra Aquatica Pro Bloom

5. Mykos

6. Clonex



I have a 13x13x7 room. I have an exhaust fan, humidifier, and dehumidifier that suit this big room. I can control the environment with no problems. I grew on well water which has 340ppm. I'm getting an RO filter now. I have an 800w EVO Kingbrite light. I'm thinking about 4 plants per light. Is it enough guys? I'm thinking about getting two more lights. More plants more learning curveIf you could help me or guide me in the right direction that would be great! Have a great grow guys!

If you're looking for pace, I'd recommend you to just go for autos straight away. Imo autos suit beginners well too, no reason be to be scared – you'll make mistakes and learn regardless of whether you pick photos or autos. Mind you autos also give you room for errors.

Keeping with the grow style of the thread I'd recommend considering the periodically top fertigated method with 70/30 coco and perlite (if you don't want rockwool). For example, you could do as @greenauto does with a big flood table and a reservoir.

And for some of the questions:

1. You can go 24/0 for vigorous growth.
2. No need for topping really, keeping the apical meristem (the main top) tied down by LST should be enough.
3. 7 gal would be plenty.
5. Depends on how big plants you'd want and your setup can handle.
6. Yes, silica from beginning. It will affect the sturdiness of stems but it won't hinder scrogging significantly.
8. Mykos can be placed in the substrate.
9. Yes TA (ex GHE) is a solid and tried option. @420autoflower has used the US equivalent version of NovaMax by TA. If you're set on going with coco you could also opt for their coco line. As for Pro Roots and Pro Bloom, TA says they are more unconventional in terms of their formulas compared to their Root Booster and Bloom Booster products – Pro Roots and Pro Bloom ofc are handy in that they are small packages.

But yeah, you can of course make the choices that suit you best. Something to consider is that scrogging multiple plants together can be difficult, especially for canopy maintenance.

 

[MN8484]

If you're looking for pace, I'd recommend you to just go for autos straight away. Imo autos suit beginners well too, no reason be to be scared – you'll make mistakes and learn regardless of whether you pick photos or autos. Mind you autos also give you room for errors.

Keeping with the grow style of the thread I'd recommend considering the periodically top fertigated method with 70/30 coco and perlite (if you don't want rockwool). For example, you could do as @greenauto does with a big flood table and a reservoir.

And for some of the questions:

1. You can go 24/0 for vigorous growth.
2. No need for topping really, keeping the apical meristem (the main top) tied down by LST should be enough.
3. 7 gal would be plenty.
5. Depends on how big plants you'd want and your setup can handle.
6. Yes, silica from beginning. It will affect the sturdiness of stems but it won't hinder scrogging significantly.
8. Mykos can be placed in the substrate.
9. Yes TA (ex GHE) is a solid and tried option. @420autoflower has used the US equivalent version of NovaMax by TA. If you're set on going with coco you could also opt for their coco line. As for Pro Roots and Pro Bloom, TA says they are more unconventional in terms of their formulas compared to their Root Booster and Bloom Booster products – Pro Roots and Pro Bloom ofc are handy in that they are small packages.

But yeah, you can of course make the choices that suit you best. Something to consider is that scrogging multiple plants together can be difficult, especially for canopy maintenance.

Has anybody tried something like Mills Cork soil with this system?


Or is the soil part just plain bad with reservoirs and drip feed.