Indoor Growing Scrog

[420autoflower]

Hey uh, im the new trash guy, um im here to help take out those bags for you bahahHa incredible haul Sensei!!!

Lol! Hilarious Brother!

This is madness

How on Earth do you avoid botrytis and pm with that extreme density! Holy smokes

The trick is to keep your R/H in the safe range from mid flower to harvest. I can have buds/colas growing on top of each other or up against the tent walls and never have to worry about mold or rot as long as my R/H is in check.

 

[Cascade]

I've read through this whole thread and lurked it for a good while in perpetual astonishment – what a wealth of information and inspiration, thank you for that! Coming from organics and soil side of things, I'm very intrigued to adopt this way of doing things and would have some questions about your general method:

(Schwazz) Do you have some rule of thumb concerning which fan leaves/branches to trim when defoliating before the scrogging? Also, do you do the super cropping by just clamping on to a branch with pliers and bending; is there something one should know about the technique?

(Nutrients) Do you switch to your flowering nutrient regimen right after the scrogging or do you still continue with veg nutrients for a little longer?

(EC & PH) Since you're running a recirculating setup, I was wondering how you approach measuring EC and PH. Do you check only the input nutrient solution you add to the reservoir or do you make sure EC and PH are in the correct ballpark after you've added the nutrient solution to the reservoir? Or do you do something else?

(Reservoir) Do you have some sort of setup to stir the nutrient solution in the reservoir (to keep the solution evenly mixed) or do you not bother with it?

Cheers, appreciate the thread and your efforts!

PS. I would also think that having the lights on 24 hours helps somewhat with avoiding PM and Botrytis since, afaik, the blue spectrum prevents fungal growth – though with that monstrous density of growth light penetration is limited.

 

[DOA]

I've read through this whole thread and lurked it for a good while in perpetual astonishment – what a wealth of information and inspiration, thank you for that! Coming from organics and soil side of things, I'm very intrigued to adopt this way of doing things and would have some questions about your general method:

(Schwazz) Do you have some rule of thumb concerning which fan leaves/branches to trim when defoliating before the scrogging? Also, do you do the super cropping by just clamping on to a branch with pliers and bending; is there something one should know about the technique?

(Nutrients) Do you switch to your flowering nutrient regimen right after the scrogging or do you still continue with veg nutrients for a little longer?

(EC & PH) Since you're running a recirculating setup, I was wondering how you approach measuring EC and PH. Do you check only the input nutrient solution you add to the reservoir or do you make sure EC and PH are in the correct ballpark after you've added the nutrient solution to the reservoir? Or do you do something else?

(Reservoir) Do you have some sort of setup to stir the nutrient solution in the reservoir (to keep the solution evenly mixed) or do you not bother with it?

Cheers, appreciate the thread and your efforts!

PS. I would also think that having the lights on 24 hours helps somewhat with avoiding PM and Botrytis since, afaik, the blue spectrum prevents fungal growth – though with that monstrous density of growth light penetration is limited.

From my experience, If you're going to give the 420Scrog method a go, definitely invest in a 3"x3" square frame. It makes the whole process of keeping those tops down during stretch that more manageable. I like to take of any leaves that are not connected to bud sites initially then anything blocking bud development 10 days later. Just keep taking the leaves away when needed. The sugar leaves from the kolas will have enough energy to see you through once you hit late flower. There's no need for excess foliage when all you want is fat buds

 

[greenauto]

Do you keep the tops down after flattening the plants out? (Or let it grow vertically again?)
We still want them to stretch a little bit vertically also after scrogging out, right?

 

[DOA]

Do you keep the tops down after flattening the plants out? (Or let it grow vertically again?)
We still want them to stretch a little bit vertically also after scrogging out, right?

Very important to keep the tops down as the plant stretches under the frame/mesh. This enables the light to reach all of the nodes eliminating any potential larf. Once stretch has almost finished the flowers are then allowed to fill out vertically, giving you that 420Scrog look. By removing a large percentage of leaf material at this stage will also see those buds swell. The last 2weeks is when you really see the weight pile on