Photoperiod First Photo Attempt: Green Crack and Bubba Kush

[tronN00dles]

Threw a net on ‘em.

 

[Mizzo81]

Looking good.

 

[tronN00dles]

Happy to report both plants are showing pistils

I was worried about the Bubba... really thought that one might end up being a male. But obvious pistils have emerged. Today is the 7th day of switching to 12/12. I've been feeding them transition 1-1-1 nutes, I'll probably continue this for another day or so before switching to bloom nutes.

Life is good....

-tron

 

[tronN00dles]

Transition-to-Bloom Week

Hey everybody,

It's been 7 days since I flipped them to 12/12. And things are going excellent. A few notes:

• As I mentioned previously, I switched back to the "old" GH Drain-to-Waste Expert feedchart. After messing around with Excel and considering @Mañ'O'Green's target ranges for N-P-K-Ca-Mg, it seems that the OG charts better align with those targets compared to the "new" GH charts and the CocoForCannabis charts.
• I'm still using CFC's target ppm/EC ranges for high-frequency fertigation, although I took about 10% off to account for my bigger pots with longer drybacks as he suggests. This week, I fed at around 525ppm (Hanna). I should have been doing this sooner, as the plants are now probably healthier than they've ever looked. Still once a day to 10-20% run-off. Run-of is measuring around 620ppm.
• Brought my pH up a smidge. Prior weeks I was aiming for 5.8. Now running closer to 5.9-6.0.
• PPFD around 500, currently drawing 250W from the wall.
• Temps around 22C, RH around 50%

This is my first time with the trellis, and I think next time I'll use something more rigid, at least anchored all the way across. I'm using a flimsy net of string that is fasted to 4 corners, but has sort of been "lifting" in the middle as the plant grows lol. Oh well.

Some pics (Green Crack on left; Bubba Kush on right):

 

[Death The Cultivator]

Transition-to-Bloom Week

Hey everybody,

It's been 7 days since I flipped them to 12/12. And things are going excellent. A few notes:

• As I mentioned previously, I switched back to the "old" GH Drain-to-Waste Expert feedchart. After messing around with Excel and considering @Mañ'O'Green's target ranges for N-P-K-Ca-Mg, it seems that the OG charts better align with those targets compared to the "new" GH charts and the CocoForCannabis charts.
• I'm still using CFC's target ppm/EC ranges for high-frequency fertigation, although I took about 10% off to account for my bigger pots with longer drybacks as he suggests. This week, I fed at around 525ppm (Hanna). I should have been doing this sooner, as the plants are now probably healthier than they've ever looked. Still once a day to 10-20% run-off. Run-of is measuring around 620ppm.
• Brought my pH up a smidge. Prior weeks I was aiming for 5.8. Now running closer to 5.9-6.0.
• PPFD around 500, currently drawing 250W from the wall.
• Temps around 22C, RH around 50%

This is my first time with the trellis, and I think next time I'll use something more rigid, at least anchored all the way across. I'm using a flimsy net of string that is fasted to 4 corners, but has sort of been "lifting" in the middle as the plant grows lol. Oh well.

Some pics (Green Crack on left; Bubba Kush on right):

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Looking great! I personally would crank that light up to max and roll with it the rest of the way. I'll comment on the dry back - less important the first 3-5 weeks then it is during mid and late bloom, you want volume through the pots when you fertigate during the late veg to bloom transition. Frequency matters less than overall volume going through each pot per fertigation. You can check your runoff pH but usually it is skewed because the plants are releasing exudates that will read differently than your inputs. Blue lab has a moisture content sensor that would tell you what's happening at the roots but runoff isn't a great indicator.

 

[tronN00dles]

Looking great! I personally would crank that light up to max and roll with it the rest of the way. I'll comment on the dry back - less important the first 3-5 weeks then it is during mid and late bloom, you want volume through the pots when you fertigate during the late veg to bloom transition. Frequency matters less than overall volume going through each pot per fertigation. You can check your runoff pH but usually it is skewed because the plants are releasing exudates that will read differently than your inputs. Blue lab has a moisture content sensor that would tell you what's happening at the roots but runoff isn't a great indicator.

Thanks for this!

Yeah I've sort of come to the same conclusion about the dry backs. I can get run-off with around 1.5-2L through each pot, but lately I've been just pouring around 4L through each at a slightly lower EC and I have noticed an improvement. I've never checked run-off pH before, but I occasionally check runoff ppm as per CFC's guide, which says ideally your runoff should be no more than 100-150ppm above the intake. I've noticed the runoff ppm creeps up with less voluminous fertigations, and more run-off keeps the ppm within that target.

As for the light, I was sort of on the fence about whether I'll just hit 'em with 800-1000 PPFD now, or just let them "grow" into it. I think I will start cranking my lights up. Currently at around 75% at 600 PPFD.

Cheers,

tron

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Your plants look great! Keep up the good work.

 

[Modernviking]

Your plants look amazing

 

[tronN00dles]

Your plants look great! Keep up the good work.

Thank you sir

This is a good time to reiterate to anyone stumbling upon this journal that @Mañ'O'Green's stickied tutorial on liquid nutrients is the most useful guide I've come across on fertilizing strategies for cannabis in the ~2 years I've been at this. Forget chasing individual deficiencies. Focus on balanced nutrient solutions as per entire feedcharts, pH'ed and ppm'ed appropriately, and all is well

Edit: I also need to re-iterate, these are photos in coco... I would think no other type of grow would need maximum Cal-Mag, and I'm still only feeding half-strength cal-mag on average lol. I buffered the coco myself as per CFC's instructions, but NEVER used full strength cal-mag amounts during this grow (5mL/gal for GH as per the bottle). There might have been a week where I used 3.5mL/gal, but for the most part, 2.5mL per gallon has been enough. Don't forget to accommodate for the calcium and magnesium in your base nutes and tap water. I've seen a few folks on other forums claim they have a calcium defficiency in soil with tapwater while supplementing 10mL/gal of Cal-Mag, and then folks are telling them to add more!!! Friggin' insane :O 80-140ppm and change for calcium is enough. Do the math and get yer ph/ppm/EC in order first and foremost...

-tron

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Thank you sir

This is a good time to reiterate to anyone stumbling upon this journal that @Mañ'O'Green's stickied tutorial on liquid nutrients is the most useful guide I've come across on fertilizing strategies for cannabis in the ~2 years I've been at this. Forget chasing individual deficiencies. Focus on balanced nutrient solutions as per entire feedcharts, pH'ed and ppm'ed appropriately, and all is well

Edit: I also need to re-iterate, these are photos in coco... I would think no other type of grow would need maximum Cal-Mag, and I'm still only feeding half-strength cal-mag on average lol. I buffered the coco myself as per CFC's instructions, but NEVER used full strength cal-mag amounts during this grow (5mL/gal for GH as per the bottle). There might have been a week where I used 3.5mL/gal, but for the most part, 2.5mL per gallon has been enough. Don't forget to accommodate for the calcium and magnesium in your base nutes and tap water. I've seen a few folks on other forums claim they have a calcium defficiency in soil with tapwater while supplementing 10mL/gal of Cal-Mag, and then folks are telling them to add more!!! Friggin' insane :O 80-140ppm and change for calcium is enough. Do the math and get yer ph/ppm/EC in order first and foremost...

-tron

IMPE I went pretty high on the overall PPMs in my last Photoperiod grow. I think 1400 overall so calcium may actually go higher than 140 to remain in balance with the other nutrients. Remember most vendor nutrient charts are focused on Photoperiod plants and should work well right off the label.