New Grower First auto after 22 year break!

I do not have a PAR reader so I can not say. The 400 watt and this is wattage from the wall, with this ChilLED is great for me. My last Green Crack was 8.4 oz lady.
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/fast-buds-and-sweet-seeds.64526/page-21 I do not sell it so it is perfect for me.
I do not have any trouble with stretching They do not get over 2 feet tall.
 
:Leds produce less heat at the canopy because they produce no infrared but 600 watts of power always produces an equal amount of heat, its just radiated differently with LED, with most exiting at the top via the heatsink and carried away by the ventilation system.


@Tony



I hear you, in a large complex grow, it can get very expensive fast. It has been said that suicide is the sincerest form of self criticism, I think I've contributed to the well being of the Earth in the most sincere way by choosing to not breed. I'm also vegetarian and I ride a motorcycle, so there ;¬)




Regarding the heat, you know I'm going to have to check this out with a physics professor and get back to you because, my instinct tells me there's something wrong with your reasoning. And my direct perception tells me that there's much less heat produced from an LED contraption. You are of course referencing the laws of thermodynamics which are colloquially known as

1. You can't win.
2. You break even.
3. You can't get out of the game.

If we have a room that is completely closed off so that no energy can enter or leave apart from a power point. Then what you say would be true, whatever energy enters through that socket will raise the heat of the room, no matter how it's used. This is where my gut reaction leads me to believe my senses are speaking the truth when they tell me that LED's produce less heat, the grow room is not a closed system. But there are two separate heat issues, there's the slow build up of heat which you have to spend money on to eliminate, and there's the second issue which is how much head is being produced that is directly beamed to the plant. Then there are further complications regarding say a cool tube which can direct the heat straight to the outside. And as you have pointed out, there's a big difference between a tiny single unexhausted grow space like I'm using and your more complex set up. And there are more variables.

Regarding the quality of the spectrum and what is best, there's only one way to get an answer to that, and the inter webs is not that place. You'd have to do a completely controlled test yourself using clones. There's no other way. Unless someone else you trust has done that. Much like the aeration test that I posted earlier, I'm satisfied that enough variables were controlled for, including phenotypes, that the massively overwhelming effect of aerated water cannot be denied unless the tester was lying and tricking us. However that does not mean that it will make a difference in my set up because I do not know if because of my highly agitated shallow water culture is in fact injecting enough air in anyway. And no matter if I see an explosion of roots I'll still not know if it was the airstone I'm going to add to the reservoir or if it would have done that anyway. Again I'd have to do a side by side. But of course I'm not interested in doing that much work for a single plant, I may as well put the air stone in because it can't hurt.
 
:Leds produce less heat at the canopy because they produce no infrared but 600 watts of power always produces an equal amount of heat, its just radiated differently with LED, with most exiting at the top via the heatsink and carried away by the ventilation system.

Yes exactly what I meant. It's at the canopy level that is where the action is for a small grow like mine, then the heat will be gently dispersed into the floor and wall and air in the outside room as everything tries to come into equilibrium. At the moment because I have the canopy currently very flat I have the light at 13", the canopy temperature during the day was 30ºC the ambient temp in the house is 28C so the canopy is a mere 2C above ambient temp. Try doing that with an HPS. This light is rated in the middle at 700 PAR at 24" so at 13" I'm guessing it must be about 1000. The plant is about 6-7 inches high so you can see the light is quite close.

Took a few more leaves off but I think I'm done with the defoliation for the time being. I've managed to stretch out the 8 main branches to the same height and I'm trying to form a wider shape but it's wanting to stay square. I'm hoping it will show some signs of flowering by the end of the 5th week which is Monday. All four pairs of branches from the first pair to the last pair take up 1.5" and the stem is another two inches. So it's very compact. Some of the side branches are thickening up a bit. Now I guess it's just a waiting game I don't think there's a lot more training I can do. I have absolutely no idea at all what is going to happen now.

DSC_8349.jpg
DSC_8365.JPG
 
Yes exactly what I meant. It's at the canopy level that is where the action is for a small grow like mine, then the heat will be gently dispersed into the floor and wall and air in the outside room as everything tries to come into equilibrium. At the moment because I have the canopy currently very flat I have the light at 13", the canopy temperature during the day was 30ºC the ambient temp in the house is 28C so the canopy is a mere 2C above ambient temp. Try doing that with an HPS. This light is rated in the middle at 700 PAR at 24" so at 13" I'm guessing it must be about 1000. The plant is about 6-7 inches high so you can see the light is quite close.

Took a few more leaves off but I think I'm done with the defoliation for the time being. I've managed to stretch out the 8 main branches to the same height and I'm trying to form a wider shape but it's wanting to stay square. I'm hoping it will show some signs of flowering by the end of the 5th week which is Monday. All four pairs of branches from the first pair to the last pair take up 1.5" and the stem is another two inches. So it's very compact. Some of the side branches are thickening up a bit. Now I guess it's just a waiting game I don't think there's a lot more training I can do. I have absolutely no idea at all what is going to happen now.

View attachment 965254 View attachment 965255

She will grow more. You'll love it.
 
Here's some shots of the roots 3 days after I changed the jets, as I hoped roots have begun emerging from the side of the pots and have started to produce some feathery ends. I'm still a long way from satisfied with these jets, I'll try and get some better quality ones because what I'm after is a fine mist. I'm not sure if my pump can drive that, but now that the roots always have a small pool of water to sit in I want to try and develop a very fine structure in the air roots.

Blue is down to 50% now and the lights are up to 18" again because I want a better spread.

I've shifted the pH up to 6.2 because, that's what makes more sense to me. I did some measurements last night and discover that one of the shoots that has come off one of the main branches has actually grown 5 inches during the last week, I didn't really pay attention to it before because I was just pulling the 8 main branches level, and wasn't really watching the undergrowth, just trying to give it light, and it does seem to have responded.

Some of the lower undergrowth is now higher than the main colas and this is with the light as close as I dare, so this confirms to my eyes and brain that the plants do not stretch as a response to moving the lights further away.

White Widow seems to have begun growing normally, now, 5 days old. My plan for it is to try and keep it in a pot outdoors and give it a very strict mainlining with eight colas, or maybe even 16. I don't want anything to conspicuous, it will be more of an ornamental that hopefully I'll be able to harvest around May, or maybe April next year.

DSC_8375.jpg
IMG_0862.jpg
IMG_0863.jpg
DSC_8374.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hey, I just saw what looks like it should be a good autoflower GSCookies grow on the 'grow diaries' site I can't link to it but you can find it by searching 'FB GSC First Grow', it did not start flowering till eight weeks. How can this be?

Fuck this bullshit, I cannot even write the name of the website using just the two words in the url. It even replaced two separate words with an autoflower.net link. So I'll have to post an image.

What is this bullshit, that not only can I not post a link to a grow, but I can't even tell you the name of the site.
 

Attachments

  • GSC.jpg
    GSC.jpg
    50.9 KB · Views: 33
If your asking why you can't post a link from another grow site, it may be because it not allowed. See site rules here...
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/site-terms-of-use.13737/
I hope that helps, but I may not understand what you mean! :headbang:

I understand I can't post a LINK but I can't even post a name that is not a link.

What I'm saying is that while I think it's pretty lame to not let someone link to another grow, just because it's another site, let's just say for the sake of the argument that I accept that lame as it is. OK so I'm not complaining about that. What I am complaining about is I cannot even mention the name of the frikken site and tell them the title of the grow journal. Never come across that before anywhere.

For example I can't even say "go to the Drow Giaries site and search for FB GSC First Grow" because simply writing the word Drow Giaries (except written properly) will have those two words replaced with a link to autoflower.net

Because this is an autoflower specialised site I have discovered an autoflower grow with GSCookies that only begun flowering at week 8, and I wanted to discus that. Because it might happen to me, because I should be showing sex by now.

I'm pretty sure that I could mention this forum on the Rollitup forum and link to my journal if I wanted to.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top