Dutch Passion DP Ultimates first

[rick-j]

Thanks man, those things cost, cool, now let me ask another question, I was using OFsoil, no more, can I get a recomendation for some good soil for a guy like me? Simple, pre mixed, ready to go for a couple of autos-----------

 

[WhiteLight]

Hello friends! I turn full the excaust fan and i switched on the intake fan for the first time. Temps in the enviroment are really weird this time. One day is climbing to 20c the next down to 17. In this way i put a small heater working on the lowest it can be and also it has thermostat on it. I think my ventilation was not working correct thats why im late with the water evaporation. I have to add here that the soil is not very wet, its just moisted. But anyway now i pull the air full out and also i switched on for first time the intake fan so now fresh air coming from out. And with the heater on i am 22-25 C. I realise that my humid dropped to 40% from 50% so that means water is leaving the tent

I know im still a noob and will be for many grows to follow but i put my head down and trying to make the plan work. Little bit of luck and soon i will get into flowering.

This morning i had to take a decision, foliar or root feed?...and so i decided to make a 2L feed for the 4 ladies PH 6 and EC 1.3. I gave them this feed 14 hours ago and they reacted well to it. More calmag will go in the next time.
2 older ladies are 21 days old.

 

[WhiteLight]

They liked the extra heat. I think 25 C make them happy. Problem is that the new growth leaves are very yellow. Also i read somewhere that most heaters suck the humidity from air. Thats why hum goes down...because of heater. They also say that infrared heater which is new technology is not affecting humidity and its also apply the heat straight on plants! For sure if this is true then for small tents like mine will make good grows for winter.

 

[DTOM420]

They liked the extra heat. I think 25 C make them happy. Problem is that the new growth leaves are very yellow. Also i read somewhere that most heaters suck the humidity from air. Thats why hum goes down...because of heater. They also say that infrared heater which is new technology is not affecting humidity and its also apply the heat straight on plants! For sure if this is true then for small tents like mine will make good grows for winter.

You said you fed them - was the soil dried out before you fed or was it still damp? The biggest cause of yellowing in young plants is overwatering.

Your tent humidity may also decrease as your soil dries out. When I have flushed several plants in a tent, the humidity always increases from the damp soil and then slowly drops as the soil dries out. If you are pulling in fresh air from outside, remember that the humidity of the outside air will determine the humidity in your tent, to a large degree. If your temperatures were dropping below around 22°C, that would account for some of your slow growth. In vegetative growth I try to stay between 24° and 28°. If you can, keep it somewhere in that range and keep your humidity between 55%and 65%. When you get to flower, then lower your temps a little bit and decrease humidity to the 45-55% range. Once you get your system really dialed in, look up Vapor Pressure Deficit or VPD. You can get the most out of your plants by following a VPD chart but I wouldn’t worry about that right now - that’s a down-the-road step up.

Let us know about your soil’s moisture level before you fed last

 

[AutoLowRyder]

a recomendation for some good soil for a guy like me? Simple, pre mixed, ready to go

the Ph remains stable, from seedling to final flowers, as long as your "Acidic Nute" Ec dose not exceed 0.9 the last 5wks of flowering............ to strong a nutrient over the whole 100 day grow, 300ltrs through the pot.

Will eventually increase the grow medium, acidity, with un-used nute build up, which then drop the Ph in the medium below 5.8........ whereapon, the nutrient uptake will be affected, the first nute to lock out at low Ph'es is phosphorus PO4.......the whole leaf begins to yellow......... this is why i use from adverse experience, now a thing of the past, due to gold label special mix.............. 3yr not one issue...... it has great buffering capacity built in, alkali & base balanced. I like to feed PH7 for the last 2wks leading upto the 10 days pure RO flush, RO detoxes plant 3x faster.......

If your temperatures were dropping below around 22°C

relative humidity is a function of air temperature, the hotter the air the lower the moisture in it, in a confined space, such as a hermetic grow room......

@22c air temp, say at the point where the temperature was taken, say at the canopy....... then the odds are the soil temperature will be 18c on the floor......... if the grow medium temperature drops below 18c, at the core. the nutrient uptake will be affected....... and at low soil temps acidity tends to rise, exacerbating the nutrient availability to the root.......... google Ph control over nutrient availability....... best to maintain the root temp with a robust air temp.

The issue here is, hot air rises ! so floor is cold 18c tent top is 29c, how to get the warm air to floor level, homogenize the tent air temperature, so same at floor as tent top ??............ simple, pump it down with a 100mm small inline 28w inline bathroom extractor fan... sucking hot air from the tent top, and pushing it out through a 60cm 10cm color carbon filter............. so helps to scrub the air, while pumping hot air to the floor !!..... this will put the warm air round the plant pots, warming them to within 3c of the tent temperature..... keeping the root temp, importantly, above 20c............... not greater than 27c............... ALR

 

[WhiteLight]

You said you fed them - was the soil dried out before you fed or was it still damp? The biggest cause of yellowing in young plants is overwatering.

Your tent humidity may also decrease as your soil dries out. When I have flushed several plants in a tent, the humidity always increases from the damp soil and then slowly drops as the soil dries out. If you are pulling in fresh air from outside, remember that the humidity of the outside air will determine the humidity in your tent, to a large degree. If your temperatures were dropping below around 22°C, that would account for some of your slow growth. In vegetative growth I try to stay between 24° and 28°. If you can, keep it somewhere in that range and keep your humidity between 55%and 65%. When you get to flower, then lower your temps a little bit and decrease humidity to the 45-55% range. Once you get your system really dialed in, look up Vapor Pressure Deficit or VPD. You can get the most out of your plants by following a VPD chart but I wouldn’t worry about that right now - that’s a down-the-road step up.

Let us know about your soil’s moisture level before you fed last

I fed them while the soil was moist. First inch was dry tho. I gave them 0.5L each. The yellowing was from before but now its more. Isnt this mean that they need nutrients? Im preparing now a foliar bottle with 2ml calmag, 1ml m/g/b, 1ml Voodoo, 1ml B52 - I do have also Piranha, RhinoSkin, Big Bud, Bud Candy, Overdrive and Sensizym. Would i add anything else to the foliar? I read somewhere that foliar water has to be 5.6 PH. Is this true?

Well i was running them from day 1 in 22 C temps average. Maybe thats why soil didnt dry? Also is cold outside and maybe they feel it? For sure i didnt help them out with the temps
RH is at 45-50% now cause of the heater and i also have a humidifier in there spraying a soft mist on them.

 

[WhiteLight]

the Ph remains stable, from seedling to final flowers, as long as your "Acidic Nute" Ec dose not exceed 0.9 the last 5wks of flowering............ to strong a nutrient over the whole 100 day grow, 300ltrs through the pot.

Will eventually increase the grow medium, acidity, with un-used nute build up, which then drop the Ph in the medium below 5.8........ whereapon, the nutrient uptake will be affected, the first nute to lock out at low Ph'es is phosphorus PO4.......the whole leaf begins to yellow......... this is why i use from adverse experience, now a thing of the past, due to gold label special mix.............. 3yr not one issue...... it has great buffering capacity built in, alkali & base balanced. I like to feed PH7 for the last 2wks leading upto the 10 days pure RO flush, RO detoxes plant 3x faster.......



relative humidity is a function of air temperature, the hotter the air the lower the moisture in it, in a confined space, such as a hermetic grow room......

@22c air temp, say at the point where the temperature was taken, say at the canopy....... then the odds are the soil temperature will be 18c on the floor......... if the grow medium temperature drops below 18c, at the core. the nutrient uptake will be affected....... and at low soil temps acidity tends to rise, exacerbating the nutrient availability to the root.......... google Ph control over nutrient availability....... best to maintain the root temp with a robust air temp.

The issue here is, hot air rises ! so floor is cold 18c tent top is 29c, how to get the warm air to floor level, homogenize the tent air temperature, so same at floor as tent top ??............ simple, pump it down with a 100mm small inline 28w inline bathroom extractor fan... sucking hot air from the tent top, and pushing it out through a 60cm 10cm color carbon filter............. so helps to scrub the air, while pumping hot air to the floor !!..... this will put the warm air round the plant pots, warming them to within 3c of the tent temperature..... keeping the root temp, importantly, above 20c............... not greater than 27c............... ALR

Recycle the top air to come down? Thats fkn genius!

 

[WhiteLight]

Guys why is my water raises ph after bubbling it?

 

[AutoLowRyder]

Guys why is my water raises ph after bubbling it?

Aeration introduces oxygen, which is mora akaline than co2, which is also introduced to 1ATM saturation. As oxygen is alkaline in nature, as it's introduced to zero o2 tap water, the Ph rises, when 100% oxygen saturation is achieved............... the benefit of 48hr aeration before use, is that indoor warm air is pumped through, which raises the water reservoir temperature.

Another side affect of correct aeration, is with tap water, if tap water is "very hard" ie, an Ec of above 0.25, = 250ppm.............. the aeration will blow off the "Temporary Alkalinity" (Calcium carbonate), this prevents this salt from building up in the root ball, towards the end of a grow, 'Pushing Up Ph"......... above 7........ whci is out of nute uptake range................ this then slows final flowering. As over a 100 days grow, @3ltr per day feed (= salts), you would have put 300ltrs through that pot, (15Ltr pot?).......... better larger than smaller for this reason.

So when you take the Ph of hard tap water aerated for 36-48hrs......... it will be 8.2 ?......... when using (Re-Gassed) tap water = (Potable Water Supply), it is better to add the nutrients first, then re take Ph. Then use nitric acid Ph down in veg (Nitrogen), & Phosphorus Ph down in "Flower" phos n"P"k is best Ph down for flower period.

Aerating tap water, has one other valuable outcome, those that dont aerate will have to suffer the detracting affect. That is (Chlorinates!) "Chloramines" of Chlorine, tap water, treatment centre sterilant....this is also blown off during the aeration (Re Gassing Period)... this has a bad affect on the fine root hairs, (Use RHS Root Grow), improves the fine hairs, so important for nute uptake. Chlorine inraw tap water sterilizes them fine hairs...... not good.

Always ensure your feed water post aeration is 2c above your root temp,...(Use infra red hand held thermometer for this, just point & pull trigger !).........warm root matrix above 20c not greater then 24c, provokes nute uptake greatly, and helps if your root matrix temperature is low (19c).............. low root matrix temp, below 19c........... will drop Ph, by increasing acidity. Conversely, a good root temp, 20-23c, will promote nute uptake, and the beneficial' bacterial community in the soil........ soil temp or hydro temp is the most important for plant health and vigor.

ALR....

 

[AutoLowRyder]

Recycle the top air to come down? Thats fkn genius!

A side affect is, the warm air is better distributed, (Used To Better Effect), heat = costs right........ so better to pull it down to the floor for the benefit of the root zone temperature, better than 180w heat mats, which over dry the root..........as there is no thermostatic control to 20c-22c................ so it cooks the root at 30c.......... not good

The air exiting the 60cm in cab carbon filter recirculated air, is also treated for odours, better two carbon filters than one.... to reduce extractor fanback pressure and improve air flow, on my main carbon filter outside the grow space i use a 125mm ducting "Y" piece, with two carbon filter attached. zero risk of odour overflow, even if the relative humidity dose exeed 70%............. RH@70% the moisture in the air is high, this blocks the cintered carbon pores, preventing odour removal (Trapping)............ not worth taking a chance on, you only get nicked once .......... ALR

Then i attach two carbon filters the the "Y" piece.............. better flow, than sorry right ??......... to many people put to fast a flow through a small carbon filter, this is risky if the grow room RH moves above 75% the filter will begin to fail to remove, VOc's (Volatile Organic Compounds) "terps".......... this is not good...... i use a filter either side of the thermostatic controlled 125mm fan............ one on intake in room, two on a "Y" piece in the loft....... where my warm clean air is pumped to........... this takes the chill of the roof space in winter !! ALR