Dialing In MEGA CROP for Auto's

[Mañ'O'Green]

oh damn i didnt know about the 15 min! thank you, good tip! Also, if im growing in coco -- does a soil pH probe still apply? Im saving up for a Blue Lab meter at the moment

Yes, many members use the Accurate 8 in coco and the Blue Lab Leap is the probe for coco and soil or solutions.

 

[pop22]

Yes I do! My water kills cannabis so I have to use RO. I think its the Iron. Anyway, I use a ppm of 450 to 500 depending on the strain some really are hogs lol! But I also don't believe in over feeding either. I grow in soil and keep my PH between 6.4 and 6.5.

wow these are stunning! do you check your pH and your EC/ppm?

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

I have had good results form Mega Crop and just ordered the new two part Mega Crop. This should solve the too much nitrogen in flower problems.

 

[pop22]

I've never used a soil probe. And that's why I run my PH at 6.4. Most i know people who run nutes in soil at 6.0 to 6.2. And everyone of them run into problems. Now maybe I've just been lucky, but since I started this protocol about 2 years ago, I've not had a rootzone problem. In most pots I haven't changed the soil in that long either. I keep them moist and the roots rot in a couple weeks, then i just pull out the stump and replant in the hole.

Hi @briefbriefs this looks like a good method just be sure to wait 15 minutes for the silica to blend with the water before adding the nutrients. If you aerate your water overnight before mixing it will help dissipate some of the calcium carbonate and this make the PH more stable.

A proper PH soil probe is used to determine the PH in the root zone. We recommend the Accurate 8 (or its clone) or a Blue Lab probe. If you go with Blue Lab besure to get the correct probe as they make different ones for different media. Don't wast money on a cheap one they don't work.

 

[briefbriefs]

I've never used a soil probe. And that's why I run my PH at 6.4. Most i know people who run nutes in soil at 6.0 to 6.2. And everyone of them run into problems. Now maybe I've just been lucky, but since I started this protocol about 2 years ago, I've not had a rootzone problem. In most pots I haven't changed the soil in that long either. I keep them moist and the roots rot in a couple weeks, then i just pull out the stump and replant in the hole.

Do you run your pH on the higher end of the spectrum because the pH naturally drops around the root zone? (im new to all this, just trying to understand the science).

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

@pop22 Well 6.5 is the center of the charts for soil so you are right on. With coco and coco/peat mixes you want it a little lower at 6.0 to 6.4 and rock wool 5.8 to 6.2 and with DWC hold as close to 5.8 as you can. It is much easier to maintain a constant PH with with the buffering action of soil than it is with coco, or coco/peat blends and that is when a meter really comes in handy. A meter is an absolute necessity for most syles of hydro. If you start to have a problem is also when you need a meter because guess work is just that.

 

[briefbriefs]

@pop22 Well 6.5 is the center of the charts for soil so you are right on. With coco and coco/peat mixes you want it a little lower at 6.0 to 6.4 and rock wool 5.8 to 6.2 and with DWC hold as close to 5.8 as you can. It is much easier to maintain a constant PH with with the buffering action of soil than it is with coco, or coco/peat blends and that is when a meter really comes in handy. A meter is an absolute necessity for most syles of hydro. If you start to have a problem is also when you need a meter because guess work is just that.

i think im starting to wrap my head around your 6.0 advice, the more i read your convo w/ @pop22 . Correct me if im wrong, but you're saying 6.0 is a good middle-of-the-road pH for coco because the pH will naturally rise and fall within the root zone?

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Do you run your pH on the higher end of the spectrum because the pH naturally drops around the root zone? (im new to all this, just trying to understand the science).

The science...................... Whew! there is a lot of science behind what we are doing and it will server you well to google it. There is a lot of different things going on in the root zone between hydro and soil grows. Much of what you do in soil is to foster healthy microbes that break down nutrients to allow the roots to uptake them. These microbes are happier at a higher PH than is needed for Hydroponic nutrients that are designed for direct root availability that takes place at a lower PH without the help of microbes. This is an over simplification of the processes just to point out the major differences.

In the root biome (soil or media) the roots exude substances that can and will change the PH. This stems from the plant stimulating the microbes to provide more of the nutrients the plant needs. Soil will help buffer these PH changes. In hydro the farmer buffers the changes with PH up/down. I had a 5 gallon DWC change the PH from 5.8 to 4.8 in just 4 hours when the plants kicked into high flower mode in an effort to get more P-K.

 

[briefbriefs]

The science...................... Whew! there is a lot of science behind what we are doing and it will server you well to google it. There is a lot of different things going on in the root zone between hydro and soil grows. Much of what you do in soil is to foster healthy microbes that break down nutrients to allow the roots to uptake them. These microbes are happier at a higher PH than is needed for Hydroponic nutrients that are designed for direct root availability that takes place at a lower PH without the help of microbes. This is an over simplification of the processes just to point out the major differences.

In the root biome (soil or media) the roots exude substances that can and will change the PH. This stems from the plant stimulating the microbes to provide more of the nutrients the plant needs. Soil will help buffer these PH changes. In hydro the farmer buffers the changes with PH up/down. I had a 5 gallon DWC change the PH from 5.8 to 4.8 in just 4 hours when the plants kicked into high flower mode in an effort to get more P-K.

Wow holy shit, i had no clue that it was the roots that changed the pH of the media -- i presumed it was because of the degradation of the nutrients that are fed into the media. That is REALLY fucking cool that you witnessed the plant itself change the pH so drastically based on the needs it has. Now im beginning to understand why other growers suggest you allow for the pH in your fertigation to vary a little (within the appropriate range.. perhaps between 5.9-6.2). In coco/hydroponics, are the microbes still mainly in charge of breaking down nutrients and bringing them to the roots, or do the roots rely solely on direct availability? This is so interesting -- i think you've started me down a very deep rabbit hole.

 

[pop22]

I agree, and that's why I run soil. I've tried about everything and my goal has been simplicity and as trouble free as possible. And it has been pretty smooth sailing! i think I might even ( just jinxed myself...lol ) have the spidermite problem licked!

@pop22 Well 6.5 is the center of the charts for soil so you are right on. With coco and coco/peat mixes you want it a little lower at 6.0 to 6.4 and rock wool 5.8 to 6.2 and with DWC hold as close to 5.8 as you can. It is much easier to maintain a constant PH with with the buffering action of soil than it is with coco, or coco/peat blends and that is when a meter really comes in handy. A meter is an absolute necessity for most syles of hydro. If you start to have a problem is also when you need a meter because guess work is just that.