Dialing In MEGA CROP for Auto's

[Dobbie Dude]

S

Skux,
I got the sample bag around Christmas and found the same( plants having a mag def'c in early seedling stage).
The idea of a foliar with epsom and kelp sounds like a really good idea.
Short term of course.
By which time, going from seedling to early veg I can always increase my MC feed to meet the needs of my plants.
The closest I have to kelp right now is a bottle of superthrive.
So I'm thinking a good mix is as you propose, perhaps subing the kelp for fulvic acid.

How much of a change did you notice when you first did the application?

within 2-3 days I notice the plants are reaching for the light, turn a nice shade of green, if you do this you may need to back mega crop a little just tweak to suit your needs

 

[briefbriefs]

Take a look at my current grow (in my sig). I'm at about 9 weeks now with nothing but old formula MC and BE. My understanding is that the new MC formula makes BE unnecessary. No CalMag, no RO water, haven't tested ph once since I started the grow. Began feeding MC @ 2gm/gal at 2 weeks and slowly worked up to about 5 gm/gal. I've started to cut it back due to some burnt leaf tips.
Instead of making shit endlessly complicated, plant a seed and feed only MC and find out for yourself if it can be done (Hint: fuck yeah it can be done)

tell me more about not testing my pH / not needing CalMag with MC -- because right now im growing with MC (first time using, 6 days in) and i am so fucking tired of messing with the pH down stuff. My tap water starts at 0.05 EC (appx 23 ppm) and pH of 8. What is the process for being able to finally put down the pH meter and putting the calmag away? (im growing in coco)

 

[GeorgeCloney]

@briefbriefs
I didn't read the entire thread.
However,
If you're using tap water, its ph should be constantly 8.0..or well water pretty much the same.
Try working with a constant volume mix.
This will give you the advantage of consistency.
Do not use vinegar. Use phosphoric acid.
The discussion should not focus on ph mix, rather ph at the roots.
Get my message?
Ppm of the MC.
Same deal.
If you have an ec pen.
Target 400 to 500 first and add as the plants want more.
Better to add than burn with over dose.
Take the time to measure once, and just repeat.
Remember to ph adjust last after the MC is added to the water.
This is what you can expect after a month or so. ( 8 strains, 8 different feeds).

 

[pop22]

some people get away with not PH adjusting MC solution, but it's not designed that way. whether or not you'll need to PH is dependent on your water composition. Don't count on this working for everyone!

MC is a great product though! Never have needed cal/mag with MC 2.0, and never any additives.

 

[briefbriefs]

@briefbriefs
I didn't read the entire thread.
However,
If you're using tap water, its ph should be constantly 8.0..or well water pretty much the same.
Try working with a constant volume mix.
This will give you the advantage of consistency.
Do not use vinegar. Use phosphoric acid.
The discussion should not focus on ph mix, rather ph at the roots.
Get my message?
Ppm of the MC.
Same deal.
If you have an ec pen.
Target 400 to 500 first and add as the plants want more.
Better to add than burn with over dose.
Take the time to measure once, and just repeat.
Remember to ph adjust last after the MC is added to the water.
This is what you can expect after a month or so. ( 8 strains, 8 different feeds).
View attachment 1192911

Hi! thank you for your reply! Im a little unclear, still. Do I just stop adjusting my pH then, since my tap is always at 8.0pH? How can you determine the pH of the roots area? Also...what do you mean about the vinegar vs the phosphoric acid?
Currently im feeding at 400-500 EC (0.4-0.5). Here is my current process for feeding:

1) Check my tap water pH and my EC just to be able to keep a record.
2) Add Silica, then MC.
3) Test EC, make sure im within range
4) check and adjust pH
5) if my EC is too high after adjusting pH, then i dilute my blend with water until reaching correct EC.
6) adjust pH again
7) feed.

 

[briefbriefs]

some people get away with not PH adjusting MC solution, but it's not designed that way. whether or not you'll need to PH is dependent on your water composition. Don't count on this working for everyone!

MC is a great product though! Never have needed cal/mag with MC 2.0, and never any additives.


View attachment 1192932View attachment 1192933View attachment 1192934

wow these are stunning! do you check your pH and your EC/ppm?

 

[GeorgeCloney]

@briefbriefs
@pop22 ( correct me where I'm wrong).
The ph issue is about,....
What minerals the plant will absorb at different ph levels.
We target 5.5 to 7.0 depending on soil type.
In your case, coco...which should be in the 5.7 to 6.2 range.
But then again...depends on whats in the tap water.
The lower ph you go, the more the calcium problems happen.
In the end, its more about reading your plants needs and particular desires.
More than a cut and paste , one size fits all solution.
So..
As a simple immediate answer.
Start at 400 ppm, adjust ph to 6.0...and you'll have an excellent grow.
What works for the plant isn't always text book.
This is what separates the average grower to master growers.
My dog favors tree branches over $10 toys.
Guess what I give my dog?.
And doggie is happy and listens.
Btw...you'r technique is fine..
Just add MC...and final adjust ph.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Hi! thank you for your reply! Im a little unclear, still. Do I just stop adjusting my pH then, since my tap is always at 8.0pH? How can you determine the pH of the roots area? Also...what do you mean about the vinegar vs the phosphoric acid?
Currently im feeding at 400-500 EC (0.4-0.5). Here is my current process for feeding:

1) Check my tap water pH and my EC just to be able to keep a record.
2) Add Silica, then MC.
3) Test EC, make sure im within range
4) check and adjust pH
5) if my EC is too high after adjusting pH, then i dilute my blend with water until reaching correct EC.
6) adjust pH again
7) feed.

Hi @briefbriefs this looks like a good method just be sure to wait 15 minutes for the silica to blend with the water before adding the nutrients. If you aerate your water overnight before mixing it will help dissipate some of the calcium carbonate and this make the PH more stable.

A proper PH soil probe is used to determine the PH in the root zone. We recommend the Accurate 8 (or its clone) or a Blue Lab probe. If you go with Blue Lab besure to get the correct probe as they make different ones for different media. Don't wast money on a cheap one they don't work.

 

[briefbriefs]

@briefbriefs
@pop22 ( correct me where I'm wrong).
The ph issue is about,....
What minerals the plant will absorb at different ph levels.
We target 5.5 to 7.0 depending on soil type.
In your case, coco...which should be in the 5.7 to 6.2 range.
But then again...depends on whats in the tap water.
The lower ph you go, the more the calcium problems happen.
In the end, its more about reading your plants needs and particular desires.
More than a cut and paste , one size fits all solution.
So..
As a simple immediate answer.
Start at 400 ppm, adjust ph to 6.0...and you'll have an excellent grow.
What works for the plant isn't always text book.
This is what separates the average grower to master growers.
My dog favors tree branches over $10 toys.
Guess what I give my dog?.
And doggie is happy and listens.
Btw...you'r technique is fine..
Just add MC...and final adjust ph.

Okay i think this makes sense! I was getting contradictory info on the cocoforcannabis tutorial, where he gives very specific pH levels for each stage of the plant's life. But your approach is much simpler, i like it. If i start at 6.0ph, can i just let it vary between 5.8-6.2 and be good?

 

[briefbriefs]

Hi @briefbriefs this looks like a good method just be sure to wait 15 minutes for the silica to blend with the water before adding the nutrients. If you aerate your water overnight before mixing it will help dissipate some of the calcium carbonate and this make the PH more stable.

A proper PH soil probe is used to determine the PH in the root zone. We recommend the Accurate 8 (or its clone) or a Blue Lab probe. If you go with Blue Lab besure to get the correct probe as they make different ones for different media. Don't wast money on a cheap one they don't work.

oh damn i didnt know about the 15 min! thank you, good tip! Also, if im growing in coco -- does a soil pH probe still apply? Im saving up for a Blue Lab meter at the moment