The problem with your statement is your comparing bottled nutrients to solids for one thing. For another MC was designed specifically for Cannabis. It works as well or better than many bottled brands. As to the amount of N, just because its common practice among growers, doesn't mean it is correct. I've not seen one science based fact to support the claim that you need to reduce or eliminate N. I've also seen "bloom booster" with an NPK of 5-50-17!!
Let's take your organic soil for example. With organics you pre-charge the soil with organic nutrients, including N sources. Does that N go away when your plant enters flower? Your plants take in what they need when they need it. And Cannabis adapts to a wide range of nutrient availability. Look at the Moroccan Hash plant. According to growers in Morocco, the soil there is so bad, "the only thing that grows here is Cannabis and Olives".
As to organics, even your no ph'ing ignores that fact that there is a lot of shitty water out there. Put my tap water on your organic plants and they'll be dead in a week! I HAVE to use RO water, so I have to add cal/mag and have to PH adjust it. Have you ever fed pure RO or distilled to your plants? Unless you have near toxic levels of calcium and magnesium in you soil, your plants will suffer.
Yes, organic is simpler, and less prone to the problems of feeding manufactured nutrients. Is organic problem free? Not in containers! Organics in containers is a balancing act between having enough nutrients to last up to say 90 days, and having too little or too much. I've seen more than one organic grow where the plants were starving be the end of the grow. Of course rather than admit that, people claim it is natural for the plant to be dying at the end. No, it's not. You can clip all the buds off a photo period and it will reveg. Other than tropical climates, the plants die when the weather changes kill it. Organics have the same problems growing with manufactured nutrient has: Grower error and lack of accurate information. Your example of buffering coco is an example of what I mean. And there is also the " more is good and too much is just enough" attitude of many growers ( and encouraged by bottled nutes manufacturers ). And yes, organic growers are guilty of that as well. If you have good quality compost which is not so easy to buy, your better off making your own. With good compost you don't need organic amendments, no gaunos, no "glacial rock dust ( which is a total waste of time and money )etc. The addition of a little lime might be needed, depending on the quality of the base soil, but compost should be all you need. For the last two years, compost is all I've added to my raised beds and my veggies and greenhouse canna all do fine. My beds, have been organic since day one, 5 years ago. I've grown some pretty hungry plants in them,like squash, pumpkins, and tomatoes. I've yet to see an issue caused by not enough nutrient availability.
Both sides have their pros and cons. I'm returning one of my tents to organic, just because I like the simplicity. But I'll continue to use MC because it works and works well. I use it start to finish and I never flush. The only reason "flushing" was introduced was the nutrient companies recommending you over feed! Then your flush out all that excess and add more??? where's the sense in that? In some one's bank account and for sure not yours!
And lastly, coco. You couldn't pay me to grow in coco! t's a great water retaining amendment for soil, it's a never ending pain in the ass as a hydro medium in my opinion. Tried it for a year, hated it! lol! Like any hydro, if you enjoy fussing over your grow and playing mad scientist to keep it under control more power to you! I have better things to spend my time on than hand feeding and babying a coco grow....... but hey, that's just me. What ever style works best for YOU, is what you should do!
Lol.. There are too many opinions, experience levels, and grow styles at play these days. Ive been strictly organic for a while now. My opinion on coco? It is the opposite of soil, and should be treated like hydro. Period. Every nutrient line will say it works with coco.. But very few, if any, where "designed" to work with coco. Dialing in MC? I have only seen/heard a handful of success stories from those that use it and it's different versions. And even those success stories can be subjective. I mean, I see people post all the time that they had great grows and that they love mega crop and that the plants do to.. Then I see pics of the plants and cringe, lol. Some people consider a successful grow as simply getting to harvest. I consider a successful grow being completely free of issues and having perfectly green, healthy plants from start to finish. The most recent ph stuff? Living soil takes care of ph all on its own in the rhizosphere. No ph'ing needed if the soil is alive. Unbuffered coco doesnt hold ph all that well at all.. It's suggested to use a hydro ph scale because the ph in coco rises as the medium dries. That's one reason why they suggest to keep it moist at all times using ph'd water. Big difference between buffered and unbuffered coco. Most people here seem to buy bagged, buffered coco, and treat it like unbuffered coco by adding calmag an all that stuff. All nutrients are hard to dial in. Mainly because cannabis plants are not like veggies and annuals. They require certain nutes, at certain levels, at certain times, and every cannabis plant grows differently, and has different needs/wants. If your plant wants/needs more of a certain nutrient, it's kinda hard to add just a little more that nutrient when its combined with 2 or 3 other nutrients that aren't needed (i.e. the npk ratios). The V2 of MC I have says it's NPK is 9-6-17! Compare that to say, advanced nutrients grow (1-0-4) and bloom (1-3-4). That alone tells you it is not properly set up to be a stand alone for cannabis. At moment, the MC NPK numbers are more suited for tomatoes and garden flowers, like most manufactured nutrient lines are. The standard npk ratios for canna are 2-1-3 (i.e 6-3-9, using 3 as the multiplier) for veg, and 1-2-3 for flower (i.e 3-6-9). The NPK for MC has way too much N for flower and way too much P and K for veg. Not to mention whatever trace npk may be in the additives. Most growers don't use any N in flower. Let alone 9%. Not sure how you dial that in, lol. I got tired of trying, lol. I now prefer to "dial in" my soil, and let the soil do all the work.