Dialing In MEGA CROP for Auto's

Megacrop 2 part has been working pretty well for me in RDWC so far. I could have did better with some of my feedings but it's a learning curve and its my first time using it. I tried sticking to 500-600 ppms but my girls were just too beastly and greedy. I was seeing big ppm drops per day before I decided to up the ppms. I didn't expect these plants to be so big and slow. Good thing I still got some bud left from my last grow! ;D

Day 50 in 5x5 tent
3x mephisto sour crack

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At this rate I think i'm going to stick with megacrop

Just wanted to say that I ended up getting over a lb from the back right plant. My biggest yield to date which is awesome for a lot of reasons but mainly because megacrop 2 part is so much cheaper than what I was using and it performed even better even though I made mistakes.
 
How are you calculating the Elemental ppms? In my calculations and looking at the GL website calculator i see a bit lower numbers than yours... i get for example, +/- 92 ppm of N when using 3.5 g/gal (0.9426 g/Lt) as does the GL calculator .
And in the Epsom Salt calculation I'm getting a bit lower than yours too... in my calculations 0.35 g/gal (0.09246 g/Lt) of my Epsom salts (16% Mg, 13% S), gives me 14.8 ppm Mg and 12 ppm S.

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I'm basing my calculations on this: http://e-gro.org/pdf/E305.pdf but my math sucks so not sure where i'm messing up.
Well, there are different versions of MC out there...this I know, because the back of MY 1pt bag says N: 9%, P: 6%, and K: 17%.
If you go to GreenLeaf website, the picture of the bag says 9-6-17...but if you search out the analysis %'s, it says something else!! I have NO idea what version I have,...but to stay sane I just have to go by what MY bag says on the back. I am blonde to begin with, please don't confuse me GreenLeaf!!
:rofl:
 
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I use the late version, I believe its the 3rd version.

Per the website the bags are printed with previous versions info but it still satisfies the Gov rules. So they will use them up until all gone to save on costs.

Current version of the 1-part is advertised as 10-7-18 on the website.
 
I use the late version, I believe its the 3rd version.

Per the website the bags are printed with previous versions info but it still satisfies the Gov rules. So they will use them up until all gone to save on costs.

Current version of the 1-part is advertised as 10-7-18 on the website.
Cool thank you. I will just have to adjust the chart for my current 9-6-17 bag. I have a full bag here, and want to use it up before
I move on to the latest yummy version :biggrin:
 
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Just wanted to say that I ended up getting over a lb from the back right plant. My biggest yield to date which is awesome for a lot of reasons but mainly because megacrop 2 part is so much cheaper than what I was using and it performed even better even though I made mistakes.
Great job. Was your 1 pounder journaled here on AFN? If yes then let @Mañ'O'Green know so he can give you a 1lb badge.
 
Question. With the latest MCV3 & promix premium from walmart, PH to 5.8-6.0? Promix is technically soil-less, is it not?
Never used it but quick google search leads me to believe it's a soil.....not a coco type mix.
PRO-MIX Premium All Purpose Mix with MYCOACTIVE, 2cu ft Compressed Bale
Formulated for a wide range of plant species. Suitable for all indoor and outdoor planting applications. Contains a specially formulated starter fertilizer which includes Canadian sphagnum peat moss, peat humus, perlite, limestone, starter fertilizer, GHA297 (Mycorrhizae Glomus intraradices)
 
Question. With the latest MCV3 & promix premium from walmart, PH to 5.8-6.0? Promix is technically soil-less, is it not?

Most pro mix is soiless... peat, perlite, lime. and whatever else they add on for their different recipes. I used it for a bit @6.2 to 6.5ph in promix hp
 
@Bill.de.Cat maybe not wrong... as they have a lot of products, and whatever one he mentioned might be a soil? Tanks for the slap :d5:
 
some questions for @pop22 @GeorgeCloney and @4d-Rock :

Like @4d-Rock I'm using ProMix HP with MC. I personally have a ton of MC v2 and like 4d-Rock, I run into issues every single f'ing grow early into flowering. My leaves turn yellow and start to show brown spots as time goes on to the point where the leaves look like they're decaying. In fact, the pictures of issues that 4d-Rock has shown with their grows could be photo-copies of my grows, the similarities are so exact.

Now for the questions;
with ProMix HP, what PH are we targeting. Read this whole bloody thread and I'm still not 100% clear what PH zone I should be aiming for. Some posts say 5.8 - 6.2, some say 6.0 - 6.4. which is it? I've been told specifically to use 6.2 with ProMix.

I HATE quitting, so I would REALLY like to be able to master MC with ProMix HP before I bail and switch to another medium. I don't see any reason why I wouldn't be able to master this but I'm beginning to think that they're not a great paring with each other.

All that being said, according to suggestions early on when I started using ProMix, I've been going with the PH 6.5 range with MC and ProMix HP, swinging between 6.2 and 6.5. My current grow, while very green and healthy during veg, has yet again gone to shit during flower. So I've started adjusting the PH to about 5.9ish as the run off water is now showing 6.0 to 6.4 PH.

It's only been about 4 or 5 days of lowering the PH, but for all I know, I'm doing it wrong, 'cause I believe I'm still seeing further yellowing of the leaves, just like 4d-rock has.


Next question is for IF and WHEN I decide to switch from ProMix HP to soil. ( I have maybe another grow or two left of ProMix in my bin)
For those of you using "soil" what are you specifically talking about? The word soil has been used to describe so many mediums now, I have no bloody clue what anyone means anymore. I think I even read a post in this thread from @GeorgeCloney use the term "soil" with (peat and coco) in brackets. If I'm not mistaken, isn't that a "soilless"?

Reason I'm asking about the soil is because after I mix my MC with my tap water (20-30ppm at about 7.6 PH), the solution stabilizes long term at 6.4-6.5, give or take a point either direction as PH swings occur with city water.

So if I could just use a true "soil" instead of a soilless, I won't have to dick around with PHing or deal with the runoff. My real confusion is, real soils are rich in nutrients and microbial life already, so by using a soil and then using MC right from seedling, as both @pop22 and @GeorgeCloney have mentioned they do, wouldn't that be too hot? wouldn't a rich soil + the use of MC so early just kill the plant?

Where I live, I have access to all sorts of stuff. so I guess I'm trying to figure out what this "soil" is everyone's talking about. Like what is it? Surely not potting mix? I live in BC Canada, so we have A TON of "soil" options here. Living soils, compost soils, flower bed soil, top soil, potting mix soil....

If I wanted to switch to soil while also using megacrop, what the hell am I looking for in a soil? For example, there's even this stuff I can readily purchase, https://www.reindeersnatural.ca/Brown_Gold.htm says it can feed plants for up to 4 to 6 months. I imagine if I used this stuff with MC, I'd burn the plants to death in a couple weeks.

So what is "soil"? lol. What kind of soil should I be looking for when using MC right from seedling all through to harvest?

In my mind, if you guys are using actual "soil" as well as MC right from seedling without burning your plants, your soil must be pretty inert? Or?

Thanks for taking the time to read my confusions, lol!
DOH! Just found this. I use promix premium moisture and for the last couple grows I’ve had the fading green spotty leaves. I had the original 1 part MC and all was fine and dandy got the new version (2 I’m sure) and since then my plants have been getting that frequently! Thought it was ph but good there 6.5, thought lockout but flushed and went 1/2 strength nutes but didn’t work. I never go over 4.5 gpg as per dabber the wise. Now I know what’s wrong, I need a good recipe for success… can you help or point the direction? This is my current Seedstockers Candy Dawg auto around day 50 and started showing as soon as she showed sex
A6D5F616-C840-4D56-A1A0-6D179C855888.jpeg
 
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