Lighting Dazed' Second Sugar Mango Ryder

Just been talking to a friend, I think I might go coco next time. This soil is pissing me off. I have just invested in an AC unit to lower my temps (didn't think that was helping), how much money have I spent so far producing NO meds........:no:
 
Just been talking to a friend, I think I might go coco next time. This soil is pissing me off. I have just invested in an AC unit to lower my temps (didn't think that was helping), how much money have I spent so far producing NO meds........:no:

I'm with you on this soil thing, what a pain in the ass to get right! Going to get that chiller built, then I'll stick with my DWC indoors...
 
dang what happened dude?how are you doing bro?not talking about growing my friend,ya seem a little stressed out my friend,how are YOU doing?!...:pass:

Having some soil issues eh?yeah Im not familiar with all mix from Bio Bizz.ya say its running a low PH and you also added Lemon juice?if so the acids are soo built up your roots are screaming right now.ya need to cut that acid and buffer it out.I know some to use Baking(sodium Bicarb)soda to cut acids and neutralize the PH a bit better.its a temp fix.but its effective.or just flush the crap outta them with filtered water,or PH your water with earth juice double up n double down like I mentioned,unless you have the GH brand ,any of em will be just fine to be honest. you doin alright bro,your welcome to PM if ya wanna talk man aint noo sweat dude.:peace:

and in all honesty soil is very easy imo to get right.you have to take what you already know is effective and works and make it your own.that simple.just in general with living organics,never try to reinvent the wheel.I have,other have and we've found just use whats already proven to be effective.but if you choose to go further with organics with a living soil n stuff ya know where I am man."AFN smoke out""AFN smoke out""AFN smoke out"
 
Stressed does not come close man. I've tried to do nothing with this grow, mainly plain tap water with 2 feeds of bio-grow and molasses. I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel, far from it, I'm actually trying to do as little as possible yet still...the fucking soil pH goes down. Even when my tap water is at 7.9.

I'm just completely bored of it all, I've seriously got too much on to be dealing with this. I feel like an ebay day and get this shit out of my life.
 
Hang tight, brother - let me get caught up on your thread. Don't start selling off the gear just yet!!! :vibes::pass:
 
OK, I read through and it looks like things are in pretty good shape. So you got some bagged soil mix with pH that's lower than granny's nipples - welcome to the club. Many of us have fought it and it is absolutely not a death sentence for your grow. In the future, I recommend potting up some of your mix a few weeks before you germinate and doing some testing. If you find that it's low, that gives you a chance to mix in some dolomite lime and let it take effect. If it's high, you can add some iron/aluminum sulfate to get it neutralized. That way you are starting from a clean slate when the seed hits the soil, and you can mix and flush all you need to without affecting your plant. Water under the bridge at this point, so what to do now?

From what I can see, your soil is heavily ferted so I am skeptical that you need to be giving any food at all during the first weeks. Any yellowing is likely the result of overfeeding or pH lockout or both. I usually run at least to day 21 before feeding with heavily amended soils like that. As for testing and adjusting pH while growing organic - that is a personal preference thing. I usually do it with Earth Juice organic pH adjuster, though on my current grow I had a very active microherd and stopped bothering after a few weeks. My nutrient solution would be in the mid 5s and would drop the soil pH down to the low 6s, then as the days passed between watering the soil would drift back up to the mid to high 6s. It continued this buffering cycle throughout the grow and all I did was monitor with my Accurate 8 soil probe but didn't adjust anything. Keeping in mind that I had adjusted my soil to 6.5 prior to starting the grow. I use General Organics which seem to be similar to the Biobizz nutes and they say you only need to pH the water if you are using very low ppm tap water, distilled water, RO water, etc. Normal tap water with an EC of .3 or higher should have enough minerals to buffer the pH when added to an organic medium.

Like several others have said, I'd start by getting some kind of bottled water and pHing it to around 7-7.5 and flushing the soil until you see your runoff pH back near the normal range. Hopefully this will also help remove some of the organic matter in the soil so you can have better control over feeding. Before you do that, top dressing with dolomite lime would be a good idea so it can work down into the soil and start fixing this over the long term. While you're in lockout, some foliar treatment can be employed if you start to see signs of deficiencies. An organic seaweed mix is good, or even a synthetic food with lots of micronutes and a little N to green things up. Even though I grow organic, sometimes I use GH FloraMicro for foliar troubleshooting since it works fast and really stops any sort of spotting or yellowing almost instantly.

Once you're back in pH range you can resume some light feeding, and I would also recommend using some myco booster like Great White every couple of weeks just to make sure the little beasties are thriving. Anyway sorry to write a novel but trust me when I say I have battled through far worse and still harvested some nice plants, so don't let the temporary setbacks get you down. This is a marathon, not a sprint! :Sharing One:
 
Well this is what I woke up to, I've decided to turn the GN down to just 2 parts. Keeps the temps down and my costs. Looking not too bad but really not good.

Not touching today, should I flush tomorrow? I've got 15 litres in a bucket standing. pH, I imagine will be around 7.8 as it usually is. If I was to say I'm trying to read the plant, I'd say the pH NEEDS to come up. But maybe a few more waterings of plain water at this pH will help raise?

Was talking to my dad today, he is an expert garderner, he said maybe the water was contaminated or something similar, maybe too much chlorine he said. He doesn't have the problem I have and he only lives 5 miles away. His garden is lush and green.

Any suggestions always appreciated, thanks for the help so far :)

IMG_2953.jpgIMG_2952.jpgIMG_2951.jpgIMG_2950.jpgIMG_2948.jpg

Under the LED she looks great, under the camera flash-horrible.

:(

- - - Updated - - -

OK, I read through and it looks like things are in pretty good shape. So you got some bagged soil mix with pH that's lower than granny's nipples - welcome to the club. Many of us have fought it and it is absolutely not a death sentence for your grow. In the future, I recommend potting up some of your mix a few weeks before you germinate and doing some testing. If you find that it's low, that gives you a chance to mix in some dolomite lime and let it take effect. If it's high, you can add some iron/aluminum sulfate to get it neutralized. That way you are starting from a clean slate when the seed hits the soil, and you can mix and flush all you need to without affecting your plant. Water under the bridge at this point, so what to do now?

From what I can see, your soil is heavily ferted so I am skeptical that you need to be giving any food at all during the first weeks. Any yellowing is likely the result of overfeeding or pH lockout or both. I usually run at least to day 21 before feeding with heavily amended soils like that. As for testing and adjusting pH while growing organic - that is a personal preference thing. I usually do it with Earth Juice organic pH adjuster, though on my current grow I had a very active microherd and stopped bothering after a few weeks. My nutrient solution would be in the mid 5s and would drop the soil pH down to the low 6s, then as the days passed between watering the soil would drift back up to the mid to high 6s. It continued this buffering cycle throughout the grow and all I did was monitor with my Accurate 8 soil probe but didn't adjust anything. Keeping in mind that I had adjusted my soil to 6.5 prior to starting the grow. I use General Organics which seem to be similar to the Biobizz nutes and they say you only need to pH the water if you are using very low ppm tap water, distilled water, RO water, etc. Normal tap water with an EC of .3 or higher should have enough minerals to buffer the pH when added to an organic medium.

Like several others have said, I'd start by getting some kind of bottled water and pHing it to around 7-7.5 and flushing the soil until you see your runoff pH back near the normal range. Hopefully this will also help remove some of the organic matter in the soil so you can have better control over feeding. Before you do that, top dressing with dolomite lime would be a good idea so it can work down into the soil and start fixing this over the long term. While you're in lockout, some foliar treatment can be employed if you start to see signs of deficiencies. An organic seaweed mix is good, or even a synthetic food with lots of micronutes and a little N to green things up. Even though I grow organic, sometimes I use GH FloraMicro for foliar troubleshooting since it works fast and really stops any sort of spotting or yellowing almost instantly.

Once you're back in pH range you can resume some light feeding, and I would also recommend using some myco booster like Great White every couple of weeks just to make sure the little beasties are thriving. Anyway sorry to write a novel but trust me when I say I have battled through far worse and still harvested some nice plants, so don't let the temporary setbacks get you down. This is a marathon, not a sprint! :Sharing One:

This is fantastic info and very much appreciated thank you. I honestly thought everything was good for the first 3/4 weeks with plain water, but when I saw yellowing, it instantly looked like lock out. Do you think I should hold off on anything and just give plain tap water for next few feeds? I just don't like the thought of flushing everything out of the soil at this stage. Maybe some tap water at 7.8 will bring things up a little?

- - - Updated - - -

OK, I read through and it looks like things are in pretty good shape. So you got some bagged soil mix with pH that's lower than granny's nipples - welcome to the club. Many of us have fought it and it is absolutely not a death sentence for your grow. In the future, I recommend potting up some of your mix a few weeks before you germinate and doing some testing. If you find that it's low, that gives you a chance to mix in some dolomite lime and let it take effect. If it's high, you can add some iron/aluminum sulfate to get it neutralized. That way you are starting from a clean slate when the seed hits the soil, and you can mix and flush all you need to without affecting your plant. Water under the bridge at this point, so what to do now?

From what I can see, your soil is heavily ferted so I am skeptical that you need to be giving any food at all during the first weeks. Any yellowing is likely the result of overfeeding or pH lockout or both. I usually run at least to day 21 before feeding with heavily amended soils like that. As for testing and adjusting pH while growing organic - that is a personal preference thing. I usually do it with Earth Juice organic pH adjuster, though on my current grow I had a very active microherd and stopped bothering after a few weeks. My nutrient solution would be in the mid 5s and would drop the soil pH down to the low 6s, then as the days passed between watering the soil would drift back up to the mid to high 6s. It continued this buffering cycle throughout the grow and all I did was monitor with my Accurate 8 soil probe but didn't adjust anything. Keeping in mind that I had adjusted my soil to 6.5 prior to starting the grow. I use General Organics which seem to be similar to the Biobizz nutes and they say you only need to pH the water if you are using very low ppm tap water, distilled water, RO water, etc. Normal tap water with an EC of .3 or higher should have enough minerals to buffer the pH when added to an organic medium.

Like several others have said, I'd start by getting some kind of bottled water and pHing it to around 7-7.5 and flushing the soil until you see your runoff pH back near the normal range. Hopefully this will also help remove some of the organic matter in the soil so you can have better control over feeding. Before you do that, top dressing with dolomite lime would be a good idea so it can work down into the soil and start fixing this over the long term. While you're in lockout, some foliar treatment can be employed if you start to see signs of deficiencies. An organic seaweed mix is good, or even a synthetic food with lots of micronutes and a little N to green things up. Even though I grow organic, sometimes I use GH FloraMicro for foliar troubleshooting since it works fast and really stops any sort of spotting or yellowing almost instantly.

Once you're back in pH range you can resume some light feeding, and I would also recommend using some myco booster like Great White every couple of weeks just to make sure the little beasties are thriving. Anyway sorry to write a novel but trust me when I say I have battled through far worse and still harvested some nice plants, so don't let the temporary setbacks get you down. This is a marathon, not a sprint! :Sharing One:

This is fantastic info and very much appreciated thank you. I honestly thought everything was good for the first 3/4 weeks with plain water, but when I saw yellowing, it instantly looked like lock out. Do you think I should hold off on anything and just give plain tap water for next few feeds? I just don't like the thought of flushing everything out of the soil at this stage. Maybe some tap water at 7.8 will bring things up a little?
 
. I use General Organics which seem to be similar to the Biobizz nutes and they say you only need to pH the water if you are using very low ppm tap water, distilled water, RO water, etc. Normal tap water with an EC of .3 or higher should have enough minerals to buffer the pH when added to an organic medium.

Hey Andy, I just checked the E.C of my tap water, it was flashing between .4/.6. Do you think I could be killing with kindness still?
 
Hey Andy, I just checked the E.C of my tap water, it was flashing between .4/.6. Do you think I could be killing with kindness still?

I think I've read that when you have .6 or 300ppm, you've reached the point where the dissolved solids in the water can cause some real problems. Lockout of mag due to an abundance of calcium in the water is one potential issue. But it's really hard to say since everybody's tap water is different, and you & I could have the same ec but totally different minerals in there. I guess the only way to know for sure is to switch to bottled water for a few weeks and see what happens. As for flushing, I don't see anything that looks like an emergency making it a necessity. I would add the dolomite lime, though, since it will help balance the pH over the long term. Keep trying to bring it up with each watering and be ready to foliar to deal with any lockout symptoms. Brown dots popping up on the leaves are usually a sign that you need to intervene quickly.
 
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