Indoor davisgirl does DWC in a crazy grow tent

[Waira]

wooooo! -dat some hot P there! ...a pinch is all it takes,... When it arrives DG, play with it some in res' ready plain water; add small amounts to a set volume and see what kind of ppm jumps you get, and pH changes so when you add it in for reals, you have a handle on what to expect....
I forgot to ask about her roots, are they OK? .... pH 5.7 is good, let's see if that bit of lowering helps,... it was too high before! Most of these type of bar charts are close, but not quite the same... but as you see with P, higher pH leads to lesser and lesser P availability while Ca is just fine.... it's that nebulous zone around 6.0-6.3-ish that some of these charts show different low-point availability pH's for... I don;t know how these are generated, and why there are slight shifts in the ranges in availability, but it's frustrating at time because in pH, decimals matter! It's logarithmic scale, meaning each jump of 1.0 either way is actually a 10-fold increase/decrease....

>>> chalky crap is CaCO3 from the hard water,...

>>> oh, right, you do have OF stuff! I lose track you know,... Get some Transport concentrate when you can,... meantime, easy on the OverGrow, while it has some very mild nutes in it, it's also ramping up the plants metabolism, increasing demand for those defc. nutes! I don't know that it's why the progression is still happening, but I suspect the pH being more of the culprit than the OverGrow.... plus you're already doing foliar with other stuff, so maybe skip the OG for a bit while you look for slowing/halting of progression on those lowers,.. some may tank out anyway past a point! Also, use of OG with wetting agents isn't recommended According to Dinesh, the owner (excellent chap BTW!),... not positive it's damaging, but let's not tempt fate just now!

>>> yeah, moderation on the h-f's, so skip the Diamond Nectar for now,... I'm curious to know if the humic part of it tends to form residues/deposits, as some of it isn't soluble... fulvic is fully I believe... check out the Ful-Power!
>>> BE is K heavy, better for later bloom stages from what I hear,.. I use it as a finisher PK booster, but use Open Sesame (5-45-19) for most of bloom cycle if I need a PK booster...the MM is equivalent roughly, minus the N of course (that's back now? It was gone for a while ); MC has a solid K base already, so that's why I suggested something really P heavy, which you took to the max! .... SC is carbo's, amino's and other goodies not NPK rated, so that's a separate deal,...add that freely as you please!

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Thanks for having a look @Mañ'O'Green and @Waira ! My tap water isn’t red, it leaves a chalky white residue everywhere. I’ve been keeping my pH sitting in the 6.2-6.5 range but I set it yesterday to 5.8 to let it get to the lower ranges. MOG is sweet candy or BE high in P but not K?

LOVE the Optic Foliar ! They get it every other day. Not helping at the moment as far as I can tell. Also sprayed them with calmag mixed with a little cocowet 2 days ago hoping to head off this P deficiency

I don’t have Open Sesame or Mother Monarch, but I can get either one quickly — View attachment 1018662

I think the underlying problem is your tap water. Are you on municipal water or a private well. If you are on a municipal water you should be able to get a water report that shows what is in it. I do not know where you are but mine is available online from the city utilities department. If you are on a private well testing is expensive and I would just buy an RO system moving forward. If you can get the water report from the city just redact the location and post a copy for us to look at. Let me know either way.

 

[davisgirl]

wooooo! -dat some hot P there! ...a pinch is all it takes,... When it arrives DG, play with it some in res' ready plain water; add small amounts to a set volume and see what kind of ppm jumps you get, and pH changes so when you add it in for reals, you have a handle on what to expect....
I forgot to ask about her roots, are they OK? .... pH 5.7 is good, let's see if that bit of lowering helps,... it was too high before! Most of these type of bar charts are close, but not quite the same... but as you see with P, higher pH leads to lesser and lesser P availability while Ca is just fine.... it's that nebulous zone around 6.0-6.3-ish that some of these charts show different low-point availability pH's for... I don;t know how these are generated, and why there are slight shifts in the ranges in availability, but it's frustrating at time because in pH, decimals matter! It's logarithmic scale, meaning each jump of 1.0 either way is actually a 10-fold increase/decrease....
View attachment 1018965

>>> chalky crap is CaCO3 from the hard water,...

>>> oh, right, you do have OF stuff! I lose track you know,... Get some Transport concentrate when you can,... meantime, easy on the OverGrow, while it has some very mild nutes in it, it's also ramping up the plants metabolism, increasing demand for those defc. nutes! I don't know that it's why the progression is still happening, but I suspect the pH being more of the culprit than the OverGrow.... plus you're already doing foliar with other stuff, so maybe skip the OG for a bit while you look for slowing/halting of progression on those lowers,.. some may tank out anyway past a point! Also, use of OG with wetting agents isn't recommended According to Dinesh, the owner (excellent chap BTW!),... not positive it's damaging, but let's not tempt fate just now!

>>> yeah, moderation on the h-f's, so skip the Diamond Nectar for now,... I'm curious to know if the humic part of it tends to form residues/deposits, as some of it isn't soluble... fulvic is fully I believe... check out the Ful-Power!
>>> BE is K heavy, better for later bloom stages from what I hear,.. I use it as a finisher PK booster, but use Open Sesame (5-45-19) for most of bloom cycle if I need a PK booster...the MM is equivalent roughly, minus the N of course (that's back now? It was gone for a while ); MC has a solid K base already, so that's why I suggested something really P heavy, which you took to the max! .... SC is carbo's, amino's and other goodies not NPK rated, so that's a separate deal,...add that freely as you please!

So when the P comes I’ll look to mix about 50 ppm of it into pH’d water with a little cocowet. Keep it out of the res entirely. Are you liking that plan?

Her roots are beautiful! The nutrient seems to congregate right at the bottom of the net cup so I rinse them every once in a while. Water temps have been warm - 72ish - but the hydroguard saved the day.

Here’s another pH graphic I like, I got it from Boradan I think.

So I’ll halt the OG for the meantime in favor of the P Foliar. I discontinued the BE and diamond nectar in the new reservoir. Thanks for all your help @Waira!

I think the underlying problem is your tap water. Are you on municipal water or a private well. If you are on a municipal water you should be able to get a water report that shows what is in it. I do not know where you are but mine is available online from the city utilities department. If you are on a private well testing is expensive and I would just buy an RO system moving forward. If you can get the water report from the city just redact the location and post a copy for us to look at. Let me know either way.

I looked at the water test — everything was within safe drinking ranges. Chlorine but no chloramine, but no other juicy tidbits. My RO Buddie is going to have to get installed, no more delaying that. Gonna have to call a plumber, good grief!

Does this mean you aren’t confident the changes to the res will make an impact? I’m bracing to redo the other 3 reservoirs, sucks but it’s gotta be done. I think I’ll do 3:1 RO/tap this time.

Thank you for all your help MOG!

 

[lunarman]

So when the P comes I’ll look to mix about 50 ppm of it into pH’d water with a little cocowet. Keep it out of the res entirely. Are you liking that plan?

Her roots are beautiful! The nutrient seems to congregate right at the bottom of the net cup so I rinse them every once in a while. Water temps have been warm - 72ish - but the hydroguard saved the day.

Here’s another pH graphic I like, I got it from Boradan I think.
View attachment 1019050
So I’ll halt the OG for the meantime in favor of the P Foliar. I discontinued the BE and diamond nectar in the new reservoir. Thanks for all your help @Waira!



I looked at the water test — everything was within safe drinking ranges. Chlorine but no chloramine, but no other juicy tidbits. My RO Buddie is going to have to get installed, no more delaying that. Gonna have to call a plumber, good grief!

Does this mean you aren’t confident the changes to the res will make an impact? I’m bracing to redo the other 3 reservoirs, sucks but it’s gotta be done. I think I’ll do 3:1 RO/tap this time.

Thank you for all your help MOG!

are you sure you need a plumber for the RO Buddie? They can install to an existing tap on a sink usually pretty easily. And putting the filter together and flushing it is well documented in youtube videos from Aquatic Life. Might save you some money.

Also make sure you have a decent tds meter and measure your ppm/ec after its installed and you ran a few gallons thru. The reading should be under 10 ppm if you have the 3 stage filter. If you have the 4 stage with DI then it can be 0 ppm. Not all tds meters work well at measuring low PPM. I have a $200 Bluelabs combo meter and it can't ready below 50 ppm which sucks. Thru time the filter will do less and your ppm will increase. Once you see that you're going to want to look at replacing the two sediment filters upstream of the membrane. They are cheaper and if you take care to replace them you can make your more expensive membrane last longer.

Also if you need a lot of water you might want to have the RO filter fill up a water tote so you have a big res of water ready to go any time. That way you don't have to watch and wait for it to slowly, ever so slowly, fill up your bucket. If you get a tote, Aquatic Life has a float shutoff valve kit you can install in the tote that will automatically stop filling the tote up. That way no floods.

My RO buddie is one of the best tools I use for growing (city water is glacier fed, med-high hardness) and I go thru a lot of water. I use RO water in my humidifier in the tent so I can get 60% RH and I don't have to replace the filter that often because its filtered. And I use it for watering the plants. I have a 50 gallon rubbermaid garbage bin I converted to a water tote. And I check my PPM out of the filter often and I have spare cartridges ready to go when needed.

 

[davisgirl]

are you sure you need a plumber for the RO Buddie? They can install to an existing tap on a sink usually pretty easily. And putting the filter together and flushing it is well documented in youtube videos from Aquatic Life. Might save you some money.

Also make sure you have a decent tds meter and measure your ppm/ec after its installed and you ran a few gallons thru. The reading should be under 10 ppm if you have the 3 stage filter. If you have the 4 stage with DI then it can be 0 ppm. Not all tds meters work well at measuring low PPM. I have a $200 Bluelabs combo meter and it can't ready below 50 ppm which sucks. Thru time the filter will do less and your ppm will increase. Once you see that you're going to want to look at replacing the two sediment filters upstream of the membrane. They are cheaper and if you take care to replace them you can make your more expensive membrane last longer.

Also if you need a lot of water you might want to have the RO filter fill up a water tote so you have a big res of water ready to go any time. That way you don't have to watch and wait for it to slowly, ever so slowly, fill up your bucket. If you get a tote, Aquatic Life has a float shutoff valve kit you can install in the tote that will automatically stop filling the tote up. That way no floods.

My RO buddie is one of the best tools I use for growing (city water is glacier fed, med-high hardness) and I go thru a lot of water. I use RO water in my humidifier in the tent so I can get 60% RH and I don't have to replace the filter that often because its filtered. And I use it for watering the plants. I have a 50 gallon rubbermaid garbage bin I converted to a water tote. And I check my PPM out of the filter often and I have spare cartridges ready to go when needed.

Thanks Lunarman. Yeah I’m pretty excited to get the thing working but the plumbing in the basement is — funny. Old house with nonstandard faucets. I’ve got the bluelab toolbox with the ppm and ph meters. I’ll definitely have a side reservoir just for the RO. I’m shocked at the amount of waste water though — good grief the planet and all that.

I haven’t been using RO in the humidifer but I should be because a fine white chalk film gets all over everything.

 

[davisgirl]

Sending good Vibez your way, DG! By the way, I love your tracking spreadsheets. Excellent detail that will be great reference for you each grow!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks for the well wishes Iriee. The spreadsheets take no time to put together and I can’t afford to be disorganized.

 

[Mushinronsha]

Well good grief @davisgirl all sorts of commotion on your thread lol. Im so glad that @Mañ'O'Green and @Waira were able to lend there expertise. And I hope it gets resolved quickly. I was kind of suspicious of a calmag deficiency not being the culprit as like I said, your the first Ive seen with it on the MC2.0 and you was already supplementing it. Im just not qualified to make that assessment lol. Leave that to those guys. Im just hear to learn and observe and enjoy watching these beautiful plants do there thing. Good vibes ypur way!

 

[davisgirl]

Well good grief @davisgirl all sorts of commotion on your thread lol. Im so glad that @Mañ'O'Green and @Waira were able to lend there expertise. And I hope it gets resolved quickly. I was kind of suspicious of a calmag deficiency not being the culprit as like I said, your the first Ive seen with it on the MC2.0 and you was already supplementing it. Im just not qualified to make that assessment lol. Leave that to those guys. Im just hear to learn and observe and enjoy watching these beautiful plants do there thing. Good vibes ypur way!

Thanks CD. I’ll take all the good vibes I can get!

 

[Beerhunter CDN]

Thanks Lunarman. Yeah I’m pretty excited to get the thing working but the plumbing in the basement is — funny. Old house with nonstandard faucets. I’ve got the bluelab toolbox with the ppm and ph meters. I’ll definitely have a side reservoir just for the RO. I’m shocked at the amount of waste water though — good grief the planet and all that.

I haven’t been using RO in the humidifer but I should be because a fine white chalk film gets all over everything.

That is the one downfall to an RO system, waste water. I don’t like it either for the extra cost of the water and more so the environment. I believe there are some systems that don’t generate as much waste water but I believe they are fairly expensive.

 

[lunarman]

That is the one downfall to an RO system, waste water. I don’t like it either for the extra cost of the water and more so the environment. I believe there are some systems that don’t generate as much waste water but I believe they are fairly expensive.

I was going to say this earlier but I forgot. Now you reminded me.

Isn't the RO filter waste water just going back in the water table anyway so its not really wasted? Its costing money yes. But is it really all that bad a thing?