I’m actually kind of doing this experiment now. I’m using CoM plant food(as directed) on one plant and Espoma Citrus Tone on the other. I mixed both ferts with some EWC and compost and letting sit before adding on (or close to) day 21. I also grow citrus and noticed the nutrient similarities and figured I’d give it a try. If it works then I know I can use the citrus tone( $13/bag) and save some coin
Old Reviews Coast of Maine Stonington Blend
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Keep us posted on the results of your experiment.
I started three seeds after amending the COM soil differently, in 5 gallon pot , keep the PH between 6.8 and 6.5.
1. I top dressed with 4 cups of EWC. Plant is showing some nitrogen stress at week 4, leave tips slightly bent at the tell tale 90 degree angle. ( fast budz Blackberry)
2. I added 2 cups of Build a soil #4 on the top, this seeding (Night Queen, Dutch passion). That soil was way too hot. Stunted the seedling, appears 2-3 weeks behind .
3. The last pot was dumped out and mixed in was 4 cups of EWC, 2 cups of the BAS #4, 2 cups of hydoton balls and 1/2 cup BAS top dress. The ILGM Amnesia Haze was planted last Tuesday, not popped thru the soil yet. Hopefully this is not too hot.
The BAS top dress has a slight funky smell when wet.
It’s not very scientific, too many variables. Trying to increase the aeration of the soil and see if the soil will last longer. But we will watch and see what’s happens. I’ve learned one thing, BAS # 4 is a bit hot for some seedlings..
Morning CoM peeps! Hope all is well in your worlds.
Posting pics below of my tent from this morning - day 52 from sprout.
Leaves are beginning to show signs of... something. From reading the thread and other research, my guess is either Magnesium deficiency and/or light burn? Been following their guide to a T as far as top-dressings etc...
PPFD: Using Mars Hydro FC-3000, about 24 inches or so from top of canopy and maybe about 85-90% on the dimmer. PPFD is about 650-700 across the canopy. Using a DLI calculator w/ lights on 18 hours/day, it shows DLI of 43.75... don't think that is too outrageous by any means (only triple checking this, as I *think* light burn was a cause of my issues with my prior Fox Farms grows).
Other than that - been using either tap water (Ph naturally about 7.9, bringing down to roughly 6.5 with Ph Down) and PPM of about 80ish, OR collected rainwater with a Ph naturally of 6.5 and PPM of about 20-30.
Last watering I added a very, very small amount (1 tsp for 2 gallons) of Epsom Salt thinking this may be a magnesium issue.
Any other ideas/solutions for some of the leaf issues shown below?
Posting pics below of my tent from this morning - day 52 from sprout.
Leaves are beginning to show signs of... something. From reading the thread and other research, my guess is either Magnesium deficiency and/or light burn? Been following their guide to a T as far as top-dressings etc...
PPFD: Using Mars Hydro FC-3000, about 24 inches or so from top of canopy and maybe about 85-90% on the dimmer. PPFD is about 650-700 across the canopy. Using a DLI calculator w/ lights on 18 hours/day, it shows DLI of 43.75... don't think that is too outrageous by any means (only triple checking this, as I *think* light burn was a cause of my issues with my prior Fox Farms grows).
Other than that - been using either tap water (Ph naturally about 7.9, bringing down to roughly 6.5 with Ph Down) and PPM of about 80ish, OR collected rainwater with a Ph naturally of 6.5 and PPM of about 20-30.
Last watering I added a very, very small amount (1 tsp for 2 gallons) of Epsom Salt thinking this may be a magnesium issue.
Any other ideas/solutions for some of the leaf issues shown below?
If you're not using synthetic nutes, There's no need to pH adjust your water.
It sure looks like the same Mg issue. How much epsom salt are you using? I used 1/3-1/2 teaspoon per gallon, every two weeks. Too much and it locks out potassium. Did you do both amendments at week 5? SBF and Fishbone?
I've heard that before, but just since my Ph was close to 8 was still trying to get down to 6.5 ish. I can definitely try "just" tap water (or maybe w/ some added Epsom) going forward.
I did 1 teaspoon in 2 gallons w/ the last watering only (after seeing a couple of these issues starting) to try and head it off. In week 5 I only did the flowering amendment recommended I didn't do a 2nd treatment of SBF (so thus far have only done SBF about week 3 and Fishbone about week 5.5). I also topped the pots last watering with some more basic Stonington blend soil cause the soil was settling pretty low in the pots so topped them off as well
I was concerned that the fishbone had no potassium cause it's 5-13-0, and with an Mg supplement possibly locking out potassium. That could cause real trouble's, so CoM support told me to use both week 5. It's in this thread somewhere. I did get a very slight nitro toxicity using both, but it burned off like they said it would.
Shoot. Now that you say that, I remember reading that a few weeks back but was on like day 10 so figured I was a ways away and I guess juts totally forgot come week 5. Now that I'm on day 52 / week 7ish, I imagine it'd be too late to do SBF again... dang it!!
Not to late, weed needs the most potassium for the flower phase. Only takes about a week to get results. Dont know if I'd do that left front plant though, she's already pretty dark in the pic.
Make some 
J and you won't see that nute def.
I have a feeling that some may be in this 'additive state of mind'. Kinda like,' the more different additives I can use, the better' thought process.
It's real easy to fall into. I think a lot of guys coming from chem grows are more likely fall into that state of mind.
The one thing that is a constant in any organic or living soil grow...................Bigger is always better! .....referring to pot size.
Your girl has a bigger bank to draw from before she beggs ya for more.
Out of the bag mix should take you fully into early flower with no problems. If it doesn't, increase pot size. Depending on the auto strain, I would start adding flower nutes around week 3 for it to be available by mid-flower. And that's depending on what you're using for flower nutes.J is mostly ready for uptake. Other dry nutes take longer.
One flower feeding technique I came up with to feed liquid nutes in an EarthBox, without washing any nutes into the rez. It can easily be adapted to regular pots. I was using my homemadeJ. I mixed up the J nutes at a higher concentration, to limit the amount of water, water was in the form of simple compost tea. This mixture was then added to my compost to make a wet slurry. I then added my earthworm castings into the mix and applied to the mound in the Earthbox.
This same technique can be used with regular pots with one simple change. Make the exact same slurry, Blue Gold Flower on BAS can sub forJ, I alternate,and apply to top. Add the water you were going to give to your girls, but in the form of compost tea. This will fire up what you've just added and help move it into the deeper root zone.
On my first compost tea application, I usually add a SST(Sprouted Seed Tea) to help encourage root growth, it does other things, but that's the effect I'm after. With all the hormones in the SST, it helps the roots to grow more to utilize more of the nutes ya just added.
J and you won't see that nute def.I have a feeling that some may be in this 'additive state of mind'. Kinda like,' the more different additives I can use, the better' thought process.
It's real easy to fall into. I think a lot of guys coming from chem grows are more likely fall into that state of mind.
The one thing that is a constant in any organic or living soil grow...................Bigger is always better! .....referring to pot size.
Your girl has a bigger bank to draw from before she beggs ya for more.
Out of the bag mix should take you fully into early flower with no problems. If it doesn't, increase pot size. Depending on the auto strain, I would start adding flower nutes around week 3 for it to be available by mid-flower. And that's depending on what you're using for flower nutes.
J is mostly ready for uptake. Other dry nutes take longer.One flower feeding technique I came up with to feed liquid nutes in an EarthBox, without washing any nutes into the rez. It can easily be adapted to regular pots. I was using my homemade
J. I mixed up the J nutes at a higher concentration, to limit the amount of water, water was in the form of simple compost tea. This mixture was then added to my compost to make a wet slurry. I then added my earthworm castings into the mix and applied to the mound in the Earthbox.This same technique can be used with regular pots with one simple change. Make the exact same slurry, Blue Gold Flower on BAS can sub for
J, I alternate,and apply to top. Add the water you were going to give to your girls, but in the form of compost tea. This will fire up what you've just added and help move it into the deeper root zone.On my first compost tea application, I usually add a SST(Sprouted Seed Tea) to help encourage root growth, it does other things, but that's the effect I'm after. With all the hormones in the SST, it helps the roots to grow more to utilize more of the nutes ya just added.
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