Indoor Brother Mendels Purple Thai Stick OG

Aren't you having similar issues with the girl in the cloth pot?
At this point, I would agree with @WildBill about the ph being the main issue. The fine print on a lot of these soils is that the nutes etc are good for about 30 days and then you need to recharge them.
I did lose a young plant that I had put into a 2nd time around pot where I put all new toppings over the old-including the straw and top watered it all in but she died from stem rot. Why I stopped top watering. I will be lightly spraying my toppings with em1 just to inoculate the kashi . Prepping my super sizer box and even without a tarp the mycelium is coming in nicely.

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Once you have that system running, you really can't direct plant. There's just too much moisture for the seedling. I normally direct plant, but I wanted the EB to be up and running with the worms and mycelium working, so I'm transplanting.
 
Once you have that system running, you really can't direct plant. There's just too much moisture for the seedling. I normally direct plant, but I wanted the EB to be up and running with the worms and mycelium working, so I'm transplanting.
I'm gonna try transplanting again. Gonna make solo cup SIP. Even drop a couple worms in so plants get used to them slithering around their roots. #tweakermadness
 
LOL! It's kinda hard to keep up with specifics. But didn't you add something to the rez this time?
Probally just the form of dolomite you added.
I've used Lots of dolomite of fields. 1lb to a EB is a huge amount. That has to mean this system will trend to a lower PH and the dolomite is there to moderate the Ph. Maybe I need to reach waaaaaaaaay back and try to figure out the chemical reaction when dolomite is exposed to a lower ph. Maybe the reaction is eventually causing a lockout or contributing to a lockout along with what happens to lockout with a lower Ph.
Whatever the cause, I don't think there is a debate on dumping media at the end of a run and re-amending and cooking it before usage again. I think just adding fresh media from the bag will make the best impact on making the media wick well again and immediately raise the Ph through plain ol' dilution. Adding amendments and cooking for a few weeks will also bring the Ph back to normal levels with just regular decomposition from the microbial activity.
I did add something which was the potassium silicate! Besides that nothing but water and microbes/slf100 once a week! I also was worried when I saw the deficiency in the box start that it was ph just cuz by description looked like what they said was manganese deficiency which it says is only available around 6.0 so I slurry tested some soil! It came out at 6.8ph so not like it’s way outta whack! Roots are just tooo crazy to get more soil out to keep testing if I was to add coffee grounds or something to drop the ph! That Agsil16 potassium silicate tho is only thing I added that I didn’t use on a regular basis before! Assuming that’s it so not using it anymore! Who knows maybe it was actually magnesium in all and maybe this batch of soil was just weak in that department cuz I buy good stuff!
:shrug:
 
I'm gonna try transplanting again. Gonna make solo cup SIP. Even drop a couple worms in so plants get used to them slithering around their roots. #tweakermadness
Yeah, I zipped out some square bottom cups yesterday with my Dremel...............easier, safer and quicker than a razor or exacto-knife. And because I can. :smoking:
 
Maybe someone needs to hookup me a gofundme donation or just donate me their ph soil probe! I could sure use 1 but am a poor S.O.B.! Sure would be nice to be able to just stab the box and get a ph reading! :d5:
 
And I haven’t lost any plants in the earthbox yet cuz I always make sure to wait 2-3 weeks before I tape up the slits in the cover so it doesn’t hold too much moisture down there! I snapped couple pics down the fill tube of purple rolex before watering and mad roots in the reservoir but hers are nice n white! :thumbsup:
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Prob need to ask earthbox if I should plan on using powdered dolomite during grow or if I should add the pellet stuff at beginning so it breaks down slow during grow to regulate but seems if ph isn’t off it won’t regulate it would just shoot ph up so:shrug:
All in all back to water only + kashi should set me up next go round! May topdress lil epsom to see if it helps since the 1st 3 I had issue with all seemed like mag so couldn’t hurt! Maybe need to get a fresh bale of promix and just make my own again!:doh:
Once again where a ph probe would help a shitload!
 
Oh also @Sour D u can see in those root pics the slits on the bottom down there are made to keep fill tube off the bottom for filling! I didn’t mean to but ran 3 runs back to back where I had put tube in on the wrong end and started getting where when I’d fill the tube itself would start backing up with water so could and several times did make a mess filling them! Didn’t even realize had in wrong end til I got some new boxes and noticed tube and drain were on same end!
 
Maybe someone needs to hookup me a gofundme donation or just donate me their ph soil probe! I could sure use 1 but am a poor S.O.B.! Sure would be nice to be able to just stab the box and get a ph reading! :d5:
Don't know how accurate it is , I didn't even realize it was ph as well as moisture but---https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M99V9B2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I did add something which was the potassium silicate! Besides that nothing but water and microbes/slf100 once a week! I also was worried when I saw the deficiency in the box start that it was ph just cuz by description looked like what they said was manganese deficiency which it says is only available around 6.0 so I slurry tested some soil! It came out at 6.8ph so not like it’s way outta whack! Roots are just tooo crazy to get more soil out to keep testing if I was to add coffee grounds or something to drop the ph! That Agsil16 potassium silicate tho is only thing I added that I didn’t use on a regular basis before! Assuming that’s it so not using it anymore! Who knows maybe it was actually magnesium in all and maybe this batch of soil was just weak in that department cuz I buy good stuff!
:shrug:
There's your toxicity. I guess you added it for the silicate.

I'm sure the dolomite is solely there to mediate the soil Ph. I really don't think it's for the Mg that would be made available as the dolomite comes into contact with more acidic leaning media. It wouldn't really be needed if the Ph is maintained and preventing any lock out.

Pellets vs powdered dolomite:
1. Surface area: Powdered wins here with immensely larger surface are to interact with your media.
2. Solubility(may not be the proper term. but you'll get the idea): Dolomite effervesces when exposed to diluted hydrochloric acid it does so only after the rock has been powdered or the acid warmed, or both. No idea what you used, but the stuff I bought bulk was finely ground and I forgot what binder they used to help keep the pellets together. It worked well and was available for quite a while, but did give a nice seasonal ph change. On another field at a friend's place, he got a different product and it had to have been more coarse because he got only a slight change with a higher rate than I did and his soil was more outta whack than mine was.

All this means is that the pelletized dolomite is not as available for buffering as the powdered version. Just the vast difference in the surface makes it a product not to use, especially in such a short use scenario in growing canna.

I even think I read on EB's site not to use pelletized dolomite.
 
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