Bio Bizz Knowledge base

[Autoflower Noob]

If I can add my 5 cents here guys, maybe the answer for you is dolomite lime.
If you use dolomite lime it the soil it will keep your PH of the soil stable around 7 and it also acts as a grate source of Ca.
Just mix some think like couple of table spoons of it into the soil and don't vary about the water let the soil o it's thing.
I got in my garden very acidic soil and I use it there to to stabilise soil for the plants that hate acidic enviroment

Thanks mate, I will do it in my next grow but unfortunately its too late to start mixing my soil with dolomite now because my plants are already in the soil

 

[Piotrek506]

I didn't mention the dolomite lime takes about 2 weeks to activate within the soil so work it it in advance

 

[Piotrek506]

Actually you can mix it in the top layer of the soil, during watering the water will move it into deeper layers.
I would still use it if I ware you ...

 

[Fantasy Island]

Well then I would say use the RO and just prepare for any deficiency that may arise. Maybe add some dolomite lime to top dress and water it in to help with the ph. I did read your other grow I was following it when it was going on. I personnaly could not wait to use up my biobizz. Until I decided to get into coco I was going to go full Organic with teas, super soil that sort of thing. I read a thread on Coco and said screw that for now bought some AN nutes use RO water and drip it through Coco sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Simple. I am still reading up about organics because I do want to do organics.

Best of luck to you dude you will get this figured out heres some Karma for you May the Ganja Gods be on your side. And here's some Rep for you for your persistence.

 

[Autoflower Noob]

Well then I would say use the RO and just prepare for any deficiency that may arise. Maybe add some dolomite lime to top dress and water it in to help with the ph. I did read your other grow I was following it when it was going on. I personnaly could not wait to use up my biobizz. Until I decided to get into coco I was going to go full Organic with teas, super soil that sort of thing. I read a thread on Coco and said screw that for now bought some AN nutes use RO water and drip it through Coco sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Simple. I am still reading up about organics because I do want to do organics.

Best of luck to you dude you will get this figured out heres some Karma for you May the Ganja Gods be on your side. And here's some Rep for you for your persistence.

Cheers mate, I appreciate it

 

[Piotrek506]

I am organic grower, and was thinking of trying coco to see the difference,
But thought that it is so much work and is complicated to keep all this variables in check.
Kind of other way around from you Fantasy hahaha
Bio bizz products are awesome cannot recommend them enough though

 

[Autoflower Noob]

I am organic grower, and was thinking of trying coco to see the difference,
But thought that it is so much work and is complicated to keep all this variables in check.
Kind of other way around from you Fantasy hahaha
Bio bizz products are awesome cannot recommend them enough though

I was also thinking of trying out coco this run but for me its just too risky because there is such a small margin for error that if you mess up your PH or temperature of the water just a bit, the consequences will be severe. Soil is just more forgiving and I will try to improve my skills on soil before moving up to the higher level of growing when I feel that I'm ready for the challenge.

 

[Waira]

Howdy guys,...

>> 'Noob-- ...while I've not used Biobizz before, the principles are the same regardless,... In fact, a recent round of plants I used the GO Box organic nutrients, and can tell you for sure the base nutes and some of the supplements will lower pH significantly, even in mildly hard water like I have; to say you don't need to worry about soil pH because you're using organic nute's is a sweeping generalization,...I had one pot of Green Poison that went way acidic using organics-- who knows why?-- each pot may start out the same, but after that, each becomes it's own little ecosystem, and will react and change according the the many real-time variables involved with such a complex interactive system,....I work with about 150ppm, upper 7's pH water, usually a mix of dechlorinated tap and RO,... this gives me sufficient pH buffering for most purposes, and often as not, I still add Ca-Mg, all carbonate based (recall, it's the HCO3- that's involved with the buffering, not the Ca directly, and not all Ca-Mg products use Ca and Mg carbonates as sources).... -blending is a good option, mate,... now that said, are you sure about your tap impurities? Are we talking metals, possible bad organic cpd.'s (like hydrocarbons, pesticides)? Or just the fairly high mineral content,...If the former, a basic carbon filter will remove such impurities, but will not significantly affect the mineral content!.... Recall, in USA measure, 1.0EC= 500ppm, or 640 Euro'; at 0.4, it's hard, but not brutally so.... if you use straight RO, you certainly should be using the carbonate based Ca-Mg, to help restore some of those buffering minerals! Yes, keeping your inputs at a reasonable pH is smart, but lots goes on when in the soil afterwards, between soil components and the microbes-- however, unless you're running a true, well built TLO type soil, the 'crobes alone will not self-buffer the pH,....that's what ag' lime, dolomite, oystershell, etc. are for, to provide longer term buffering and slow nutrient release; Like Pio' stated,of these, dolomite is the slowest, because chemically, it's "assembled" differently than straight limestone/shell type CaCO3, and my understanding is, it can't raise your pH above 7.0; the limestone based products will have a variable amount of MgCO3 too, the oystershell, little to none I believe,... does the Biobizz soil have any mineral buffers in it? Brothers FI and SB are right about the need to adjust your pH's regardless of water sources, which is why I recommend blending to a general ppm range,... as you know, RO/DI will not hold pH for shit, and swing wildly from tiny inputs! And bigger picture still, it's you're actual in-soil pH that matters the most anyway, because in part, it'll determine what you pH your nutes too, if needed at all... (my struggles are always with acidity, not alkalinity, so in honesty, I can't offer direct experience in dealing with alkaline soils, and as far as products go for dealing with this, there's far fewer-...I know weak acids like vinegar/citrus lack staying power, and the usual products seem harsh, but only if used improperly, added into the soil at low pH-- that's what kill the 'crobes, not what it's made of per se,...something like phosphoric acid sounds gnarly, but in fact, it's H+ is the same as any other acid, and the phos' part is in fact rendered into an absorbable nutrient; no, it's not technically "organic", but at the small amounts we're talking about here, so what?)... in any case, corrections during the grow are a PITA to deal with, which is why it's wise to test your soils beforehand, using a reliable device like an Accurate 8 pH probe, not the dicey run-off method, and amending it with the basics like a lime source if it's lacking,... ***.... thinking back, we never did get a solid reliable soil pH on that last grow, or the name of the soil, to check on it's ingredients,.... your water alone wasn't the culprit! Again, I stress the need for in-soil pH measuring, anything else is a guesstimation at best,.... ***..... Aaanyway, an alternative product for raising your nutrient solution pH/soil pH is hydrated lime--Ca(OH)2... it's right now fast, potent, and as such, needs to used carefully,... it's cheap too! Partly dissolvable in water, so it won't disappear in solution, but plenty does, and after a few weeks, it's spent,... it's what I used to treat the GP mentioned before, for nute soln. and straight waterings,... I'd start with 1/4 tsp/gal, and add more gradually to desired pH...

 

[Autoflower Noob]

Wow thanks sooo much for the wise words Waira...reading your post is like reading the encyclopedia you have saved me days of researching effort to get the needed info. I have decided to mix my dechlorinated water with RO water for every feed with individual ratios of RO /tap water in order to balance out the acidity of of nutrients and always keep the PH of the solution near 6.5.

 

[BlueCrossChronic]

Thank you so much for this thread! It was just what I was looking for.