Sweet Seeds 4d-Rock's Black Cream Autos

[RivetGrrl]

Sorry I missed your tag, I haven't been on in awhile.

I had root rot and struggled, used hydrogen peroxide BUT you have to add it regular as it kills everything so in the end, I really disliked it.

As another small town Canuck, I turned to brewing my own tea and it has been a life saver. Even when the plants are healthy, the roots explode when I feed them. (I'm brewing a batch right now, takes 48 hours). There really is no alternative to this up here in the great white expanse.

It's cheap, works awesome and I really recommend it. Look up Heisenberg tea, but really any balanced tea that has a variety of beneficial organisms in it will work. (bacteria and fungi). Yes, it cleaned up the pythium and new roots were growing out of the slimy crap. I can post up the products I used that I found local/online as well if you wish. This tea works in hydroponics, soil and soilless.

 

[MissUniverse]

Hey @MissUniverse , you seem to have some experience with Pro-mix so maybe you can answer a question I have. Since Pro-mix seems to salt up fairly regularly, and may be the cause of lockouts I hit around the pre-flower stage, would it be advisable to start using something like Fox Farms Bushdoctor Sledgehammer? Or is there some other flush additive or salt neutralizer that can be used to address this problem? Or would a regular flush do the trick around week 3-4?

I'm not a fan of additives of any kind unless necessary. I believe in the kiss ideology (keep it simple stupic). And while these can either engulf the nutrients, or otherwise cause them to become more hydrophilic (make the salt molecules "like" water more so it attaches more easily do to increased binding affinity chemically), I think sometimes you can just use a distilled water flush. Distilled water has zero nutrients and nothing whatsoever in it but pure 2 atoms of hydrogen to 1 atom of oxygen. Now the ph isnt within the normal plant range and plain old watering without phing the water can be harmful with distilled water, I argue that in a case such as this, you need to approach this almost as though you are doing a internal liquid debridement of the promix medium which can almost be thought of as an extension of the plant. Since the medium (promix) is both in the forum of a porous and semiporous state (from the peat, the perlite and the added peat mulch and the air compacted throughout the to the varying materials at their specific mixtures and due to the beneficial bacterial in the mixture, we need to flush it all and adding anything but pure water means less can be removed at a time and more gets caught in those pores and air spaces where the water is supposed to stay for a short period and the nutrients are meant to stay by design of the medium. So long short. We gotta flush and flush and flush with as little as possible to get it all out. Now, heres the issue... when we do this, if we have a fabric pot, we can have all of the salts build up #INSIDE# the fabric pot af the bottom inch of the soil causing even worse problems. What will happen is the plant will start to get healthy again and then all of a sudden it will just burn in a day or two and die for no reason right when she wants to plump up... I have photos of it somewhere. It happened on my diesel berry. It was ready for chop but never fattened up like it could have because it was in a fabric pot which I over fed and then had salt build up and coukdnt flush out.
Then the other issue with flushing with pure distilled water is that all the beneficial bacterial and micronutrients and all the other good ess becomes depleted and the plant goes on life support until it gets readjusted. To combat this youd need to use things like azos or mykos or teas. One thing you can help do for beneficial bacteria is add a in or couple of inches of promix to the top of your pot if its box or hp or another with beneficial bacteria in it because those bacteria will multiply as long as you moisten that layer, add it to the top immediately after flushing and right before recharging the soil. Again, because the bacteria will form new colonies creating beneficial conditions within a day and within 2 to 3 days your roots will have their new beneficial bacteria growing around them.

Sorry I missed your tag, I haven't been on in awhile.

I had root rot and struggled, used hydrogen peroxide BUT you have to add it regular as it kills everything so in the end, I really disliked it.

As another small town Canuck, I turned to brewing my own tea and it has been a life saver. Even when the plants are healthy, the roots explode when I feed them. (I'm brewing a batch right now, takes 48 hours). There really is no alternative to this up here in the great white expanse.

It's cheap, works awesome and I really recommend it. Look up Heisenberg tea, but really any balanced tea that has a variety of beneficial organisms in it will work. (bacteria and fungi). Yes, it cleaned up the pythium and new roots were growing out of the slimy crap. I can post up the products I used that I found local/online as well if you wish. This tea works in hydroponics, soil and soilless.

On a side note. And required warning and all that jazz I have to say so people dont try this at home blah blah blah.this ISNT TESTED SO DONT TAKE MY WORD FOR IT THIS IS JUST A NOTE FOR A LAST DITCH EORT. TRY EVERYTHING ELSE FIRST DONT DO THIS!!One thing you can try as a last ditch effort for root rot when you're shit outta luck and your plant is a loss is to buy a bottle of low sodium soy sauce, the real stuff ALWAYS LOW SODIUM, buy the cheap brand though UNFILTERED. Make sure it was made by some weird chinese label, japanese label, or the most normal sounding name ever. Dosent matter. JUST MAKE SURE ITS A BRAND KNOWN FOR TASTING LIKE CRAP AND IF POSSIBLE UNFILTERED! It will retain a small amount of bacillus amyloliquefaciens from when it was fermented.
Could add it to a few gallons of water, ph and water with it hoping the bacillus amyloliquefaciens colonize and kill the root rot... but dont hold your breath.
You could also attempt to research how to make a soy sauce cannabis tea. I do know if you have southern ag you can produce more of your own biofungicide (bacillus amyloliquefaciens) just from a simple method using a few millilitres of the liquid already in the bottles. If you can acquire the bacillus amyloliquefaciens from the soy sauce you could grow the colonies quickly in the right environment. Particularly with the same method. Growing your own bacillus amyloliquefaciens is easy but very dangerous... but brewing a tea with bacillus amyloliquefaciens in there is easy. All you need is a tea starter with your beneficial bacteria is what youd need. A soy sauce tea properly made would be like a baker's sourdough bread starter.

 

[4d-Rock]

Sorry I missed your tag, I haven't been on in awhile.

I had root rot and struggled, used hydrogen peroxide BUT you have to add it regular as it kills everything so in the end, I really disliked it.

As another small town Canuck, I turned to brewing my own tea and it has been a life saver. Even when the plants are healthy, the roots explode when I feed them. (I'm brewing a batch right now, takes 48 hours). There really is no alternative to this up here in the great white expanse.

It's cheap, works awesome and I really recommend it. Look up Heisenberg tea, but really any balanced tea that has a variety of beneficial organisms in it will work. (bacteria and fungi). Yes, it cleaned up the pythium and new roots were growing out of the slimy crap. I can post up the products I used that I found local/online as well if you wish. This tea works in hydroponics, soil and soilless.

Thanks for the input, I never really looked into teas before so I might have to research it. Sounds like something that might be worth the effort.

I'm not a fan of additives of any kind unless necessary. I believe in the kiss ideology (keep it simple stupic). And while these can either engulf the nutrients, or otherwise cause them to become more hydrophilic (make the salt molecules "like" water more so it attaches more easily do to increased binding affinity chemically), I think sometimes you can just use a distilled water flush. Distilled water has zero nutrients and nothing whatsoever in it but pure 2 atoms of hydrogen to 1 atom of oxygen. Now the ph isnt within the normal plant range and plain old watering without phing the water can be harmful with distilled water, I argue that in a case such as this, you need to approach this almost as though you are doing a internal liquid debridement of the promix medium which can almost be thought of as an extension of the plant. Since the medium (promix) is both in the forum of a porous and semiporous state (from the peat, the perlite and the added peat mulch and the air compacted throughout the to the varying materials at their specific mixtures and due to the beneficial bacterial in the mixture, we need to flush it all and adding anything but pure water means less can be removed at a time and more gets caught in those pores and air spaces where the water is supposed to stay for a short period and the nutrients are meant to stay by design of the medium. So long short. We gotta flush and flush and flush with as little as possible to get it all out. Now, heres the issue... when we do this, if we have a fabric pot, we can have all of the salts build up #INSIDE# the fabric pot af the bottom inch of the soil causing even worse problems. What will happen is the plant will start to get healthy again and then all of a sudden it will just burn in a day or two and die for no reason right when she wants to plump up... I have photos of it somewhere. It happened on my diesel berry. It was ready for chop but never fattened up like it could have because it was in a fabric pot which I over fed and then had salt build up and coukdnt flush out.
Then the other issue with flushing with pure distilled water is that all the beneficial bacterial and micronutrients and all the other good ess becomes depleted and the plant goes on life support until it gets readjusted. To combat this youd need to use things like azos or mykos or teas. One thing you can help do for beneficial bacteria is add a in or couple of inches of promix to the top of your pot if its box or hp or another with beneficial bacteria in it because those bacteria will multiply as long as you moisten that layer, add it to the top immediately after flushing and right before recharging the soil. Again, because the bacteria will form new colonies creating beneficial conditions within a day and within 2 to 3 days your roots will have their new beneficial bacteria growing around them.


On a side note. And required warning and all that jazz I have to say so people dont try this at home blah blah blah.this ISNT TESTED SO DONT TAKE MY WORD FOR IT THIS IS JUST A NOTE FOR A LAST DITCH EORT. TRY EVERYTHING ELSE FIRST DONT DO THIS!!One thing you can try as a last ditch effort for root rot when you're shit outta luck and your plant is a loss is to buy a bottle of low sodium soy sauce, the real stuff ALWAYS LOW SODIUM, buy the cheap brand though UNFILTERED. Make sure it was made by some weird chinese label, japanese label, or the most normal sounding name ever. Dosent matter. JUST MAKE SURE ITS A BRAND KNOWN FOR TASTING LIKE CRAP AND IF POSSIBLE UNFILTERED! It will retain a small amount of bacillus amyloliquefaciens from when it was fermented.
Could add it to a few gallons of water, ph and water with it hoping the bacillus amyloliquefaciens colonize and kill the root rot... but dont hold your breath.
You could also attempt to research how to make a soy sauce cannabis tea. I do know if you have southern ag you can produce more of your own biofungicide (bacillus amyloliquefaciens) just from a simple method using a few millilitres of the liquid already in the bottles. If you can acquire the bacillus amyloliquefaciens from the soy sauce you could grow the colonies quickly in the right environment. Particularly with the same method. Growing your own bacillus amyloliquefaciens is easy but very dangerous... but brewing a tea with bacillus amyloliquefaciens in there is easy. All you need is a tea starter with your beneficial bacteria is what youd need. A soy sauce tea properly made would be like a baker's sourdough bread starter.

Thanks a lot for the very in depth response! It kind of sounds like the best/easiest thing to do is to avoid the problems to begin with haha.

I like your tip of adding some more pro-mix after flush but before recharge, I’ll have to remember that in future instances where I need to flush.

So far things have more or less stabilized. I made sure that I wasn’t watering too early And oxygenated the water prior to mixing in the nutes.

The 2gallon was showing more deficiency in the lower leaves, I thought cal and maybe N or P. The 3gallon has a couple minor Cal spots but that’s it. So the last feeds were (60ppm start) with 100ppm CalMag, 1g/gal Sweet Candy, 3g/gal Mega crop, and introduced 0.5g/gal Bud Explosion. I think they are responding well to it, I’ll probably keep the Megacrop where it is and gradually increase Bud Explosion as flowering starts to really set in.

Here we are at Day 36. I’m thinking I might turn the Quantum board back on, maybe at 50%, and see how they respond.

 

[MissUniverse]

They are looking like the extra nutrient salt build up is being taken up by the plant so you were able to successfully let them grow where they are. Honestly you might not need that other bear yet and that other board could cause some issues with nutrient fluctuations due to too much light. (I had a problem where plants stunted and went wacky one time from too much light). What ever you're doing right now, the plants are looking ok. Still, get the stuff for root rot and use it. But it looks like you won the proverbial cannabis lottery with those plants. Might be a day to play the numbers with a lotto ticket.
Good job!!!

 

[4d-Rock]

They are looking like the extra nutrient salt build up is being taken up by the plant so you were able to successfully let them grow where they are. Honestly you might not need that other bear yet and that other board could cause some issues with nutrient fluctuations due to too much light. (I had a problem where plants stunted and went wacky one time from too much light). What ever you're doing right now, the plants are looking ok. Still, get the stuff for root rot and use it. But it looks like you won the proverbial cannabis lottery with those plants. Might be a day to play the numbers with a lotto ticket.
Good job!!!

Thanks! I’m just going to keep doing what I’m doing until the plants tell me otherwise.

It is very tempting to turn on the QB at 50% though. But I don’t want to mess with things if it’s going well. They are still stretching a bit so I might wait until that’s over and flip it on after the vertical growth has stopped.

Side profile from day 36

 

[4d-Rock]

Hey all, I’m back with an update. It’s been a bit because my house went through a nasty stomach virus, not fun at all.

Any who, I’ve been keeping things mostly consistent with my feedings. Still 100ppm CalMag added with 1g/gal Sweet candy and bud explosion. Slowly creeping up with the Megacrop at 3-3.5g/gal. Though just recently I’ve been seeing some minor tip burn. Not sure if it’s from the concentrated salt buildup or just too high nutes. I’ll likely back off on the MC on the next feed and soon probably bump up the BE up to 1.25g/gal if the tips don’t get worse. They’ve been drinking more too, I’m down to about 2 days between feeds for both pots.

Here’s the tent at day 41

Side view

The black/purple colouring is starting to show on the 3gal. Not yet on the 2gal, maybe delayed or could’ve just gotten the green gene.

Top view

 

[Garage_Grower]

Looking spot on! :smoking:

 

[4d-Rock]

Well, looks like I’ve run into another issue, hopefully only a mild annoyance and doesn’t develop too much further.

The other day I increased the QB from 75% to 100%. Then about 24hrs later I noticed these spots starting on a few of the top fan leaves.

As you can see, the spots are developing closer to the flower and advancing outward. The also haven’t shown up on anything lower.

Any ideas? Could it be caused by the increase in light? I’ve already dropped back to 75% just in case. Or maybe a Deficiency and I should increase nutes. Or is is a lockout and I need a lighter feed with more volume to clear out some salts?

 

[Sweet Seeds Apolo]

Hi buddy!

May be an excess of phosphorus, causing a deficiency of other nutrients (calcium, magnesium, zinc and iron).

Do you follow the doses and instructions given by the manufacturer of the fertilizers? There are some fertilizers that you use that I personally have not used, and I cannot tell you.

Sweet smokes,
-Apolo

 

[4d-Rock]

Hi buddy!

May be an excess of phosphorus, causing a deficiency of other nutrients (calcium, magnesium, zinc and iron).

Do you follow the doses and instructions given by the manufacturer of the fertilizers? There are some fertilizers that you use that I personally have not used, and I cannot tell you.

Sweet smokes,
-Apolo

Ya generally I am, though I am a bit lower then the recommendations for Megacrop. there has been some tip burn so I haven’t stepped up my nutes much more. I wonder if the excess salt is causing burns and lockout.

still using the same strength as above. 1g/gal Sweet Candy, 100ppm CalMag, 1.25g/gal Bud explosion, and 3G/gal MegaCrop.

im leaning toward doubling the volume for my next feed, keeping the strength about the same. Maybe flush a bit of the old stuff out of the system