Photoperiod WVR's Photo Grow

It's either you are watering them too much or not enough. IMO from what you are telling me they aren't getting enough water. All the myco allows for more roots which need more water at the bottom of the pot and with 86 degree temp they are going to burn thru water fast. I had similar problems with my JEM thinking if its moist on the top soil it should be wet below...right...Nope, I was wrong... Good thing I had 2 litres bottles to check the bottom because the damn root mass soaked up all the water really quick. It even started to yellow and suck water from my leaves to support the new growth. I also noticed my JEMS leaves droop when low on water instead of pointing up.
 
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stick your finger into the soil 2 inches from the edge of the pot... to the second knuckle... if it feels moist theres plenty of water... when it starts to dry(ish) (not totally) out water again...

every 3 days sounds ok... or in range at least

find out your house humidity... tht is key!!! if its too low the stomata wont open... 65% is a good number well below mold issues and high enoguh for good transpiration...


The dark reaction takes place in the stroma within the chloroplast, and converts CO2 to sugar. This reaction doesn't directly need light in order to occur, but it does need the products of the light reaction (ATP and another chemical called NADPH). The dark reaction involves a cycle called the Calvin cycle in which CO2 and energy from ATP are used to form sugar. Actually, notice that the first product of photosynthesis is a three-carbon compound called glyceraldehyde 3-phosphate. Almost immediately, two of these join to form a glucose molecule.
Most plants put CO2 directly into the Calvin cycle. Thus the first stable organic compound formed is the glyceraldehyde 3-phosphate. Since that molecule contains three carbon atoms, these plants are called C3 plants. For all plants, hot summer weather increases the amount of water that evaporates from the plant. Plants lessen the amount of water that evaporates by keeping their stomates closed during hot, dry weather. Unfortunately, this means that once the CO2 in their leaves reaches a low level, they must stop doing photosynthesis. Even if there is a tiny bit of CO2 left, the enzymes used to grab it and put it into the Calvin cycle just don't have enough CO2 to use. Typically the grass in our yards just turns brown and goes dormant. Some plants like crabgrass, corn, and sugar cane have a special modification to conserve water. These plants capture CO2 in a different way: they do an extra step first, before doing the Calvin cycle. These plants have a special enzyme that can work better, even at very low CO2 levels, to grab CO2 and turn it first into oxaloacetate, which contains four carbons. Thus, these plants are called C4 plants. The CO2 is then released from the oxaloacetate and put into the Calvin cycle. This is why crabgrass can stay green and keep growing when all the rest of your grass is dried up and brown.
There is yet another strategy to cope with very hot, dry, desert weather and conserve water. Some plants (for example, cacti and pineapple) that live in extremely hot, dry areas like deserts, can only safely open their stomates at night when the weather is cool. Thus, there is no chance for them to get the CO2 needed for the dark reaction during the daytime. At night when they can open their stomates and take in CO2, these plants incorporate the CO2 into various organic compounds to store it. In the daytime, when the light reaction is occurring and ATP is available (but the stomates must remain closed), they take the CO2 from these organic compounds and put it into the Calvin cycle. These plants are called CAM plants, which stands for crassulacean acid metabolism after the plant family, Crassulaceae (which includes the garden plant Sedum) where this process was first discovered.

Marijuana Plants are all C3 Plants FYI

:smokebuds:

some ref:

http://www.autoflower.org/content/photosynthesis-what-do-plants-do-night-247/
FD's Guide to Hefty Autos: http://www.autoflower.org/sho...7261#post27261
Deficiencies and problems / etc: http://www.autoflower.org/sho...iciencies-List
 
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Thanks Sir C and JM!! Appreciate the input guys. I think it's not enough watering. I'll get a hygrometer asap. They were extremely light. Both of them. Very dry. So I gave them a good watering. The BuKu 2 has Pistils!! They have only been in 12/12 for 3 days! This is a good thing right? The BuKu 1 looks to have pistils popping by tomorrow. I see the very tops of them sticking out of the baby calyxes!

So what about feeding? I have a reference for feeding and you feed photos when they start to flower right? Sir C I now definitely see what you mean in retrospect about the Myco and from what you experienced with your JEMS it sounds like my problem. It seems maybe every 2 days would be better well, like JM said when they are fairly dry. I hope I've haulted this issue and everything will be good to go now. I appreciate your help guys!! I'll let you guys know what happens in the next few days. Thanks for helping save my Burmese!
 
NP mate... yeah sounds like water demand went up and you didnt realize it... easy mistake to make... that knuckle trick works real well... heres a simple guide for ya.... i reccomend you read "FD's guide to hefty autos" though for sure...

fd... WHEN YOU SAY HIGH FERT SCHEDULE... WHAT ARE WE TALKIN HERE? WHAT STRNGTH AND HOW OFTEN? (REALLY STILL TRYIN TO GET A HANDLE ON THIS CRAZY-REDUCED FERT SCHED FOR AUTOS... STILL ADJUSTING!)
what i mean is that not all autos are the same lol
I have been growing the same genetic line for over a year now
and they all seem like they really like my fert schedule.
This is what i doi break it down as follows
First off let me talk about what i use as ferts. I have a 4 part system that i use and most of this is in the brain so please bare with me as i share this one.
I use FF grow big (hydro formula) Tiger Bloom and then two tea variations. One is high in N for veg and the other is high in Phosphorus when its time to flower.
I apply these through out the grow. I use the FF to get it started.
then i move to the teas and then back to the FF and then back to the teas
So i break it down like this:
FF GB is 3Tbsp/1Gal for heavy feedings. So in my mind this is more than enough for our fave friends. So it states that 2tbsp/1gal is for normal feedings so i use this as my base number. After that i break it down into 1/4
at 7 days i start like this
Day 7 1/4 dose to a gal
Day 14 1/2 dose to a gal + 8oz of N rated tea
Day 21 1tbsp GB and then 1/4 of TB (bringing in the TB)
Day 28 1/2 TB + 8oz of Phosphorus rated tea
Day 35 1.5 tbsp TB to a gal
Day 41 2tbsp of TB and 8oz of Phosphorus rated tea
Then Flush till finish unless it needs something at the end.
I think that this is everything that i do like i said i am not sure as this is all in my head. If the plants demand more that i give more this is just something to go by. I usually do not swap in clean water feedings at all over the fert program. I just use the jug then its gone. Now if i start to see over feeding or lockouts ill flush.
But if i keep my water on point i never usually see a lock out or toxicity.
Hope this helps

EDIT: thanks Sir c!! :pimp:
 
Hope it helps bud, wouldn't want to see those buku's parish! I've got a Lung load of Good Karma heading your way!
 
:smokebuds: Very true Brother! Very True! Well, when I put them to bed at 4pm they seemed just fine. I didn't see anything spread so far. I'm going to get a hygrometer tonight hopefully. Both plants have pistils now so sweet! Only 4 days into flowering and they showed pistils!
 
Some updated pictures of the Burmese will be posted after 4am this morning. The Buku 1 is doing very very well. The BuKu2 got most of the damage of waiting a bit too long to feed... See you all in a few hours!
 
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