Mephisto Genetics White Crack + Sour Livers SIP LOS Grow

[Organic Sinse]

So was lost in that giant story so short version....
Do I need to get either humic or fulvic acid (or bio-ag’s FulPower stuff (mix of both humic/fulvic)? Most teas I see ask for 1 or both of those! And do I need the main 6 (BAS calls it big6+humic acid) but do I need those things still u think?? Thanks and sorry was so long-winded last post for short lil question?

The only fulvic acid product out there anywhere worth anything is Fulpower. I used to use it, but haven't for quite some time. Since I have good compost and leafmold and vermicompost, I don't need it, and can't tell the difference since I stopped. I will say this, its super easy to overdo Fulpower, so be cautious only apply it once or twice to an auto grow. I wouldn't use it at all if I were you. I would just spend my money on good worm casting or vermicompost or make my own.
Just a couple things about Fulvic acid for anyone who is interested. Fulvic acid is humic acid, but not all humic acid is fulvic. Depending on where you live, you may not be able to buy anything labeled 'Fulvic Acid' (Oregon is one place), it will say humic. If its not Fulpower, don't buy it. Every product I have ever seen except fulpower, is made from Leonardite, which is essentially almost a coal. It takes years to become available for your plants. Don't waste your money on Leonardite based products. They will look like Black Powder. General Organics also has a liquid product made from Leonardite, its called something like Black Diamond (can't remember for sure, but it is part of the GO box), it's also not worth your money.
Fulvic acid is a catalyst, often referred to as the catalyst of catalysts. It occurs naturally in the form we want thru the breaking down of Humus. If you have good compost or vermicompost you have plenty of Fulvic acid. The good news is, you will never over dose your plants if you apply it as compost or vermicompost. If you over apply Fulpower, you will see misfigured, mutated, and bizarre growth.
If you reuse your soil, and are a Fulpower user, don't use it again. It stays in the soil until it is physically leeched away. Hopefully we have no leeching happening in our LOS containers (read as another reason not to flush).
When I used Fulpower, it was at a real low concentration, like 1tsp per 5 gallons, 2 applications to soil max. A little goes a long ways, and if OD its bad.
hth
cheers
os

 

[Fermented_Fruitz]

The only fulvic acid product out there anywhere worth anything is Fulpower. I used to use it, but haven't for quite some time. Since I have good compost and leafmold and vermicompost, I don't need it, and can't tell the difference since I stopped. I will say this, its super easy to overdo Fulpower, so be cautious only apply it once or twice to an auto grow. I wouldn't use it at all if I were you. I would just spend my money on good worm casting or vermicompost or make my own.
Just a couple things about Fulvic acid for anyone who is interested. Fulvic acid is humic acid, but not all humic acid is fulvic. Depending on where you live, you may not be able to buy anything labeled 'Fulvic Acid' (Oregon is one place), it will say humic. If its not Fulpower, don't buy it. Every product I have ever seen except fulpower, is made from Leonardite, which is essentially almost a coal. It takes years to become available for your plants. Don't waste your money on Leonardite based products. They will look like Black Powder. General Organics also has a liquid product made from Leonardite, its called something like Black Diamond (can't remember for sure, but it is part of the GO box), it's also not worth your money.
Fulvic acid is a catalyst, often referred to as the catalyst of catalysts. It occurs naturally in the form we want thru the breaking down of Humus. If you have good compost or vermicompost you have plenty of Fulvic acid. The good news is, you will never over dose your plants if you apply it as compost or vermicompost. If you over apply Fulpower, you will see misfigured, mutated, and bizarre growth.
If you reuse your soil, and are a Fulpower user, don't use it again. It stays in the soil until it is physically leeched away. Hopefully we have no leeching happening in our LOS containers (read as another reason not to flush).
When I used Fulpower, it was at a real low concentration, like 1tsp per 5 gallons, 2 applications to soil max. A little goes a long ways, and if OD its bad.
hth
cheers
os

Thanks for that! I knew someone would have the answer but guy at local hydro shop told me if I get leaf compost ($21 for huge bag) and add it with regular compost while making teas it’ll make natural humic acid! The bottle I posted from Nectar is contracted thru and made using Ful Power! Has whole story how he dropped his leonardite version and contracts to use theirs since best around but don’t wanna add if not needed! What about amino acids cuz some teas ask for them?? Nectar has a .5-0-0 Athenas animas that is amino acids the owner said I could use in place where tea asks for it! Is that something needed in my brews? Thanks for advice amigos

 

[Tom Bombadil]

Working on trimming but she has good air flow thru and not noting and moisture between right now ..... but ya I’m watching and trimming .....

Buoldasoil or KIS https://www.kisorganics.com/collections/all ..... KIS is an AFN Member

what r u running your humidity at ? im trying to maintain 45-55 and its hard this time of year..
edit: kis is sold out of the small bottles of mam p..go figure...
gro-kashi sold out at b a s and 3 week wait via grokashi website..
guess ill have to go the harder route n brew aact in the kitchen. the wife loves it!

 

[Fermented_Fruitz]

Also the soil I mixed myself and planted double grape and all other lil ones in I added the glacial rock dust too when adding gypsum and I think something else as minerals! Bird poo I’ll start topdressing and water in since am def doing no til! Nothing out bottle so glad don’t need that Zeus humic stuff! Any other tips I always have room for more knowledge! Also the soil I amended had nectar ran thru in last grow! Did flush few times toward end but dude helping them had me throw some crazy high nute doses in when soil wouldn’t reach the 300-500ppm nectar calls for (I think cuz soil was just buffering it instead of it building up) but was 1st ever grow so was just a guesstimate that sounded good to me!

 

[Fermented_Fruitz]

My closet sits about 40% n tent can get to like 60% when zipped up! Am ordering an ac infinity t4 that’ll control temp n rh for me so don’t need to worry or unzip tent to cool off some and let humidity out! Have good dehumidifier but it doesn’t do the trick still!

 

[MrOldBoy]

what r u running your humidity at ? 15%? im trying to maintain 45-55 and its hard this time of year..
edit: kis is sold out of the small bottles of mam p..go figure...

Work on humidity in the room if possible ....

I am around 65% in baby tent ...... 55% in NUGS tent and 36% now in the homemade box tent was 35% but added to small humidifiers to that area .....

In the baby tent I have wet rags laid on top of the earthbox or boxes and number of rags adjusts humidity - I’m using three right now to get that 65% number ..... when I open the tent the number quickly jumps down but goes back up when closed .....

NUGS tent has enough evaporation it holds fine but I used a wet rag or two when I was wanting higher numbers - conversely I ran dehumidifier in room, and inside tent if I wanted down - in fact I have a small dehumidifier in that tent now - lots of leafs and lots of transpiring

Hope this helps ....

KIS - go figure right - one thing next load will be fresh!

 

[MrOldBoy]

Also the soil I mixed myself and planted double grape and all other lil ones in I added the glacial rock dust too when adding gypsum and I think something else as minerals! Bird poo I’ll start topdressing and water in since am def doing no til! Nothing out bottle so glad don’t need that Zeus humic stuff! Any other tips I always have room for more knowledge! Also the soil I amended had nectar ran thru in last grow! Did flush few times toward end but dude helping them had me throw some crazy high nute doses in when soil wouldn’t reach the 300-500ppm nectar calls for (I think cuz soil was just buffering it instead of it building up) but was 1st ever grow so was just a guesstimate that sounded good to me!

I have used a little humic acid in my outdoor stuff but not sure what results I got ..... Maybe someday I will revisit but for now my focus is on perfecting or as close as possible lighting and how much or little a plant can handle and each plants preference .... Perhaps few grows down the road I’ll get that dialed in, sigh.

 

[Tom Bombadil]

Work on humidity in the room if possible ....

I am around 65% in baby tent ...... 55% in NUGS tent and 36% now in the homemade box tent was 35% but added to small humidifiers to that area .....

In the baby tent I have wet rags laid on top of the earthbox or boxes and number of rags adjusts humidity - I’m using three right now to get that 65% number ..... when I open the tent the number quickly jumps down but goes back up when closed .....

NUGS tent has enough evaporation it holds fine but I used a wet rag or two when I was wanting higher numbers - conversely I ran dehumidifier in room, and inside tent if I wanted down - in fact I have a small dehumidifier in that tent now - lots of leafs and lots of transpiring

Hope this helps ....

KIS - go figure right - one thing next load will be fresh!

View attachment 1151725

lol i hang wet old shirts in the tent when it goes below 35-40.. my issue is mainly high humidity...ive had pm in the past so i get nervous if it goes over 50 in flower.. no pm or bud rot issues at 65 huh? u keep it there late flower? nugs gets rock hard dense buds.. let me see if i have some laying around from last run

 

[MrOldBoy]

Whether its volcanic or glacier rock dust, you want it in the soil. It takes a while to break down, so if you are just using a soil mix for say 1 auto grow and then discarding, its probably not worth the money. If you are going no till or recycling your soil, a good amount to start with is 2 cups per cubic foot. You only add this once, no matter what you add later. It takes a lifetime to fully breakdown. If you overuse rockdust in a mix, it can get heavy and even clay like, so heed my advice and just add it once.
Nutrients from rockdust are freed via weathering, which are essentially just pH swings within the medium. The best way to use rock dust is to add it to compost or vermicompost. That gets the weathering started very early. Worms will use it a grit in their gizzard, and that is the best way to weather it so that the nutrients are available. Just a tiny fraction of the nutrients are released when it is passed thru a worm, and hopefully it will be passed thru worms an infinite amount of time.
I also like to use oyster shell flour in my vermicompost, and this is also passed thru the worms and made available more quickly. Oyster shell flour, aka osf, is what I use in addition to lime to act as a buffering agent, in addition to being a great source of calcium.
I don't care what anyone says out there, I don't think that Seabird Guano works well in tea. Its better in a soil mix or top dress.
cheers
os

As always Sinse. The MAN with the Answers

Oyster Shells I like in the compost bin too and even sprinkle in straw mulch sometimes as I do with rock dust but not a lot, like you say ..... Folks go to the feed store, cheap - Chickens eat oyster shells and you can get all you can carry to $30 but that would be 3 bags too many - about $7.50 a bag or buy at elsewhere repackaged for at least 2X the price with fancy label and lots of promises .... You can also get Kelp at feed store too, horse and farm animal food - at my feed store you can buy kelp by the pound or 50 lb. bag full - alpha meal, pellets and bails of alpha when in season are other ones - lots of goodies at the feed store, check them out ......

Let me run this one by you @Organic Sinse .... Bat Guano takes time to breakdown we know that but what if we did use in a tea and then discard back to bin or pot - would we gain or loose anything as the nutrients are either in the tea or still in the guano, which by returning we would be getting our last nickel out of the product - thoughts Sinse?

 

[MrOldBoy]

lol i hang wet old shirts in the tent when it goes below 35-40.. my issue is mainly high humidity...ive had pm in the past so i get nervous if it goes over 50 in flower.. no pm or bud rot issues at 65 huh? u keep it there late flower? nugs gets rock hard dense buds.. let me see if i have some laying around from last run

Oh no not 65 RH in bud tent, no way - that’s more like 50-55 RH - sorry if mistook as you can see by meter I’m at 55% in bud tent.