Mephisto Genetics White Crack and Kis Organics Soil

Day 6 on my 2 Grape Rolex. I also planted a Chemdoggin yesterdsy thst cracked open. Hopefully she sprouts tonight. I went with a cup, because I wanted the extra heat since she didnt have a long tail yet. If they germ fast and have a decent tail I am not worried at all with direct planting. But unopened or barely opened makes me play it safer with a cup or Rootmaker. I am running low on starter soil, so I used a cup. Rootmakers take 2x as much soil at first vs a 5oz cup. So I needed to conserve this time. Plus I am saving the remaining Stater soil for Direct planting of the NEW Roc Bud Inc strains. They are brand new and will pop a nice tail in 24 hours soaking and will plant directly in Juniors. Plus it gives me time to prep all of my Juniors that need reammending. Lots of work to do this week. Flipping Fast Master plants tomorrow after I clean up the bottoms and clone some more branches. Need to top dress them too. I have a Mystery Mix plant that is looking goodx doing some Candy Cane training on her. Added the co2 bottles. Lets see if it make a difference in growth? Adding one to my other 2x4 in a minute. Got more sugar today. I will add a few pics later.

Directly planted Grape Rolex is slightly ahead so far. Nothing major only at day 6. But bigger leaves and 2nd set is also growing faster. I plan on transplanting day 12, so 6 more days. I predict we see a gap starting by thenx as the Directly planted seedling will have reached the Kis Soil with its roots by then. Having contact with Kis Soil once roots grow into it after a week or so theoretically should provide the plant with food sooner than a transplant. When I transplant I notice it takes a few days, maybe 3 to 5 days before you notice much change in growth speed. But once they sinkntheir roots in you see rspid growth. Eliminating that 3 to 5 day slow down window can actually translate to finishing 7 to 10 days sooner on the back end. Obviously if your temps are too low, directly planting can potentially SLOW root development down at first. So I am really happy to have my small 2x4 starter tents. They are perfect for Juniors. I have a small Cooling fans that have built in Speed Controllers as my extraction fans on my 2x4 tents. I dont use a Carbon Filter on my veg tents, so the A/C Infinity project fans are ideal for the 2x4 tents. You dont get the massive NEGATIVE pressure like larger fans for extraction. Making it perect to control temps and humidity. But because I have a kid and a wife with a nose like a blood hound, I have to run Carbon Filters in my Flower areas with Negative pressure always to eliminate all smells. So I have braces for the sides to help with tents sides sucking in and also a Scrogg in a couple flowering tents to train the plants. I like scroggs when you have plants on the same schedule, otherwise I dont use them. Pics in a few. Peace, slow
 
But because I have a kid and a wife with a nose like a blood hound, I have to run Carbon Filters in my Flower areas with Negative pressure always to eliminate all smells.

10/10, can relate lol. I duct my drying tent into my flower tent for filtration too.

My tent is empty, chopped everything, everything down. Either something was amiss with the walter white, or she was just done. Drinking less, yellowing out. She was just starting to get some amber, so... choppy choppy. This was the grobucket. When dumping out water prior to discarding the soil, the top water was clear and fine -- the last bits smelled a bit.... funky. Like funky pond water. I suspended all beneficials and feeding for the final stretch, maybe the gnats brought some pythium into the drain hole. Who knows.

The Jr's looked and smelled great, actually. The barrier in the Jr was pretty good at keeping the dirt out, but it was pretty full of healthy roots. I poked around the soil before throwing it out. A few gnats left (presumably the smarter ones that figured out how to sneak under the elastic) and there were quite a few presumably predator mites still in there.

Cleaning, sterilizing, airing out -- getting ready to pop some Meph sativas. Woot. I have a little 2x4 starter tent as well.
 
Oh I also got rid of that 400HPS boat anchor. Not worth it. With temp controller I'll just cycle the heater when necessary.

BUT

I have a little hodge podge of LEDs going. A few HLG288v2's, a few atrium288's, and a couple QB96 elites. Have been running the QB96's on the same drivers thus far (120H-54A). Instead of running that 50 pound desk weight 400, I am going to pickup a couple bigger drivers for the QB96's. I figure ~240 watts in one of those should add some heat back to the tent ;)
 
Oh I also got rid of that 400HPS boat anchor. Not worth it. With temp controller I'll just cycle the heater when necessary.

BUT

I have a little hodge podge of LEDs going. A few HLG288v2's, a few atrium288's, and a couple QB96 elites. Have been running the QB96's on the same drivers thus far (120H-54A). Instead of running that 50 pound desk weight 400, I am going to pickup a couple bigger drivers for the QB96's. I figure ~240 watts in one of those should add some heat back to the tent ;)
What size tent you running those QB96? I have a set and havent used them in a couple grows at all. The Mephisto Sativas didnt care for the strong red light, they yellowed when I turned the QB96 on them, so be careful. Start low and adjust upwards vs starting too strong and working backwards. I have mine in a 4x8 with a bunch of cobs. But that 4x8 is coning down. The QB96 pair will go in a 4x4 dedicated to flowering only once I take that 4x8 down. Have 1 plant left on it with 7 days or less left. So I am just playing the waiting game. That 4x8 is 10+ years old and falling apart so badly. I shoukd have replaced it a long time ago. But didnt care until I brought some photos into the room. Now I care about light proofing, dont need that old 4x8 lighting up the room. Flipped 4 Fast Masters, and have a black tarp over the tent for now. Peace, slow
 
What size tent you running those QB96?

Flower tent is 6x10, but I only use about 4x6 of it right now, perhaps up to 4x8 after cranking up the qb96's and running them high. I'll end up with 3qb's, 1atreum, and 2 qb96's in the flower tent. Just running a single atreum in the starter right now.

I'll have to keep an eye out for the strong red reaction. Those will probably be in the middle.

I'll germ under flouro's, get them used to the Atreum ramping those up from 50-100%, then into the big tent.
 
I must say I am excited to try my 1st home grown organic. They smelled wonderful and fruity. Dunno how much of that was because of grow method -vs- strain. They were CQx24c. A delicate pink. This one had a double bud top. Colors don't show well under LEDs.

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Alright alright alright, we are crusin into dsy 8 above ground on my Grape Rolex. We will call today day 1 on Chemdoggin. So 1 week apart exactly. Fwiw the directly planted seedling has taken off faster. The 2nd true set of leaves is significantly larger now. I predicted a large difference by day 12, and still do. The seedling in cup looks similar, just not growing as fast out of the gate. 2nd set of leaves are much smaller. I believe that the directly planted seed is going to actually be 7 to 10 days ahead by the end of its life. Meaning it is about 2 days ahead now, but that will translate to a week or more from steady growth from the immediate contact with Kis Soil once the roots grow into it. Because it always takes 2 to 3 days for the transplanted seedlings to take off. That makes them 4 to 5 days behind before the seedlings are even 2 weeks old. Very happy to have the set ups to start in final pots now. These 2 seedlings will be the last ones I start in a cup. It is very obvious to me the advantages, I have grown hundreds of Auro seedlings. Zero slow down is the key to optimal results. Direct planting is clearly the most optinal way to start, IF you have proper temps. I still promote cups or Rootmakers at lower temps vs final pots at lower temps. Optimal Root growth is the single most important aspect of growing Autos. Peace, slow
 
Ok everyone, as predicted (a few days earlier than I predicted) the Directly planted seed is now offically ahead by a decent amount. I could see the edge on it the whole time...but bam overnight she is taking off! This is not a true test, as it is only 2 plants. But you dont have to be a rocket scientist to see the advantage of directly planting...IF your temps are ideal for it. I purposly held off taking pics til now on these. Gonna go snap a few pics now. I also have a Chemdoggin seedling in a cup day 2 and a Mystery Mix plant that is starting to take off decently. I actually think the co2 bottles I made are helping. BRB with a few pics, slow
 
Few pics. Mystery mix plant week 3.
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Day 9 Grape Rolex, 1 in cup and 1 directly planted. And a Chemdoggin day 2 in cup. Notice thw difference in Directly planted size. Blew up overnight. Must have reached the food source soil with some roots. Full steam ahead! Peace, slow
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Alright alright alright, we are crusin into dsy 8 above ground on my Grape Rolex. We will call today day 1 on Chemdoggin. So 1 week apart exactly. Fwiw the directly planted seedling has taken off faster. The 2nd true set of leaves is significantly larger now. I predicted a large difference by day 12, and still do. The seedling in cup looks similar, just not growing as fast out of the gate. 2nd set of leaves are much smaller. I believe that the directly planted seed is going to actually be 7 to 10 days ahead by the end of its life. Meaning it is about 2 days ahead now, but that will translate to a week or more from steady growth from the immediate contact with Kis Soil once the roots grow into it. Because it always takes 2 to 3 days for the transplanted seedlings to take off. That makes them 4 to 5 days behind before the seedlings are even 2 weeks old. Very happy to have the set ups to start in final pots now. These 2 seedlings will be the last ones I start in a cup. It is very obvious to me the advantages, I have grown hundreds of Auro seedlings. Zero slow down is the key to optimal results. Direct planting is clearly the most optinal way to start, IF you have proper temps. I still promote cups or Rootmakers at lower temps vs final pots at lower temps. Optimal Root growth is the single most important aspect of growing Autos. Peace, slow

Optimal Root growth is important and plants naturally send out a tap root to establish a root system ......

With the EarthBox that tap root will go down and then travel along the bottom spreading out runners as it grows ....

When a RootMaker is transplanted there is no tap root, just pruned roots growing out in all different directions filling the EarthBox evenly ....

Way too early to tell which is better - fact the one has more leaves at this stage could simply be one is a better seed or environment or ??? - until more testing is done I couldn’t come up with which way is better and at 8 days even RootMaker pot should have ample room ....

For sure if you are challenged transplanting and things don’t go right then direct sow by all means and WTF it is easier and more natural and no chance of shock, so what’s not to like providing you can micro manage the environment in a larger starting tent verses a smaller starting tray / humidity dome setup .....

In general gardening we follow this rule:

Root - such as radish - plant direct
Short grower - such as lettuce - plant direct
Long grower - tomato - start in humidity dome

Of course this is for outside grows and really does not apply .......

Following your test, should be interesting!

Peace,
MOB
 
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