Mephisto Genetics White Crack and Kis Organics Soil

[MMMi]

They are pretty easy to manage if you don’t feed em, and have a dry mulch layer on top of the soil.

I think I got them this time when my RDWC levels climbed a bit (gotta account for root growth when your pump > drains), perhaps making the rapid rooter wet. Dunno. Now they may be in the coco, which I automated drip feed. I added a layer of perlite on the top and hit everything with BTI. Haven't resorted to 'cides yet, organic or not. Hasn't risen to predatory mite level yet either. When the fugue state in rdwc finishes (she is a slow finish, been fading now for weeks and still see a bunch of clear trichs) everything will be spaced out better and I'll be able to isolate where the *$&# they still are.

 

[MrOldBoy]

Soil temps need to down a little under 70 degrees I believe ...... @Organic Sinse makes a point about the Amazon Jungle but that soil is still cooler than the air due to shading and rotting mulch layer of leaves - leaves rotting on ground greatly reduce the soil temp, just dig into a rotting layer on the ground and you can feel the difference - and Organics outside are different than inside, that’s for sure ......

I tried a heating mat under the plants and I believe the soil was too hot so I turned mat off and even when mat was turned off I was still getting over 73 degrees and that was without mat mat but probe still in pot - now mind you this is in a starter pot so not the same but last grow I had probe in a cloth pot and soil was warm in the low 70 degree with no mat - I would have to dig thru some pics but Stoner memory and science tells me basement floor as is, maybe tarp buffer, will work best .... I also know when I first set up my new grow I had a mat and didn’t like the warmer water being held in the reservoir in the juniors so I ripped it out .... nest issue was tent too cool so I added oil heater to room.

Peace,
MOB

 

[Organic Sinse]

Soil temps need to down a little under 70 degrees I believe ...... @Organic Sinse makes a point about the Amazon Jungle but that soil is still cooler than the air due to shading and rotting mulch layer of leaves - leaves rotting on ground greatly reduce the soil temp, just dig into a rotting layer on the ground and you can feel the difference - and Organics outside are different than inside, that’s for sure ......

I tried a heating mat under the plants and I believe the soil was too hot so I turned mat off and even when mat was turned off I was still getting over 73 degrees and that was without mat mat but probe still in pot - now mind you this is in a starter pot so not the same but last grow I had probe in a cloth pot and soil was warm in the low 70 degree with no mat - I would have to dig thru some pics but Stoner memory and science tells me basement floor as is, maybe tarp buffer, will work best .... I also know when I first set up my new grow I had a mat and didn’t like the warmer water being held in the reservoir in the juniors so I ripped it out .... nest issue was tent too cool so I added oil heater to room.

Peace,
MOB

View attachment 1137327

I was speaking in terms of final pot, it’s a lot easier to raise temps in tiny starter pots on a flat.
Big container in the basement is gonna be cool.
Below 70’F is more of a hydro thing. In living soil, we want the stuff growing that the hydro guys don’t want.
cheers
os

 

[MrOldBoy]

I was speaking in terms of final pot, it’s a lot easier to raise temps in tiny starter pots on a flat.
Big container in the basement is gonna be cool.
Below 70’F is more of a hydro thing. In living soil, we want the stuff growing that the hydro guys don’t want.
cheers
os

Climate must have a lot to do with - You being far north as my basement floor is 68 degrees, maybe 67 in some spots but temp gun averaged 68ish ...... my soil temps in the juniors is 71.2 and that is without any heat mats and air temps 78-80ish with RH 65% or so ..... up in tent a little higher the heat drops a few as well as RH nut at plant level is what I’m talking.

gotta like the co2 reading with no supplement ..... see if that holds thru grow ...... note both lower temp and Rh - gauge up is mid way up tent

 

[Organic Sinse]

Climate must have a lot to do with - You being far north as my basement floor is 68 degrees, maybe 67 in some spots but temp gun averaged 68ish ...... my soil temps in the juniors is 71.2 and that is without any heat mats and air temps 78-80ish with RH 65% or so ..... up in tent a little higher the heat drops a few as well as RH nut at plant level is what I’m talking.

View attachment 1137446
View attachment 1137444

gotta like the co2 reading with no supplement ..... see if that holds thru grow ...... note both lower temp and Rh - gauge up is mid way up tent

View attachment 1137445

MMMi said his ambient is 64, so I bet his floor is even cooler.
cheers
os

 

[MMMi]

MMMi said his ambient is 64, so I bet his floor is even cooler.
cheers
os

Ok, as usual I overthink, overengineer shit. I slapped a cheap oil heater in the tent and on low power the tent got near 80 overnight. One of the perks of an oversized tent is I got room for... stuff. That was without the ultrasonic running. So I dialed it down, fired up the ultrasonic and now I'm mid 76 ambient, 50% humidity and still venting outside. Not sure if I'll mess with the venting now, only upside would be passively warming up the rest of the basement.

 

[Organic Sinse]

Ok, as usual I overthink, overengineer shit. I slapped a cheap oil heater in the tent and on low power the tent got near 80 overnight. One of the perks of an oversized tent is I got room for... stuff. That was without the ultrasonic running. So I dialed it down, fired up the ultrasonic and now I'm mid 76 ambient, 50% humidity and still venting outside. Not sure if I'll mess with the venting now, only upside would be passively warming up the rest of the basement.

I would just keep gradually tweaking one thing at a time till you get all the environmental factors the best you can, just the way you want..
Once I realized that good temps equal faster grow, it seemed like adding heat and running lights 24/0 actually came out a wash in the end with regards to electrical costs. If I save a week or 2 on a grow, more energy used throughout the grow is about the same energy used in the end.

One thing that I wanted to touch on for just a sec with regards to soil temps is this. Due to evaporative cooling in containers, its virtually impossible to ever make room temps with properly moistened soil. Soil temp will always be lower than a person would think. As water evaporates from the soil, it takes heat from the soil to turn the water into a gas. The way I usually show this is concept is by taking two 5 gallon containers of the same soil mix and equipping both with a soil temp probe. One container is dry soil mix, the other is perfectly watered to the level we use in a grow. The dry container will approach room/air temp, and as it completely dries out will become room temp. The moist soil will always be cooler, often by 5-10 degrees depending on top surface area of the container. The heat from the container is continuously being scavenged to evaporate water.

Picture this.
With the earth box setups using the shower caps, picture everyone of those drops of condensation hitting the shower cap, taking heat to get there. The theoretical number is 600 calories of heat, per gram of water, taken from the soil to make evaporation happen.

I like the shower cap for the example because it clearly demonstrates that evaporation in the soil does most certainly happen, and that all the water in the soil isn't being transpired by the plant.

I hope that doesn't all sound too geeky, but it might help some folks to understand how things are working together, and why. Might also help work out some of the variables.

cheers
os

 

[MrOldBoy]

I would just keep gradually tweaking one thing at a time till you get all the environmental factors the best you can, just the way you want..
Once I realized that good temps equal faster grow, it seemed like adding heat and running lights 24/0 actually came out a wash in the end with regards to electrical costs. If I save a week or 2 on a grow, more energy used throughout the grow is about the same energy used in the end.

One thing that I wanted to touch on for just a sec with regards to soil temps is this. Due to evaporative cooling in containers, its virtually impossible to ever make room temps with properly moistened soil. Soil temp will always be lower than a person would think. As water evaporates from the soil, it takes heat from the soil to turn the water into a gas. The way I usually show this is concept is by taking two 5 gallon containers of the same soil mix and equipping both with a soil temp probe. One container is dry soil mix, the other is perfectly watered to the level we use in a grow. The dry container will approach room/air temp, and as it completely dries out will become room temp. The moist soil will always be cooler, often by 5-10 degrees depending on top surface area of the container. The heat from the container is continuously being scavenged to evaporate water.

Picture this.
With the earth box setups using the shower caps, picture everyone of those drops of condensation hitting the shower cap, taking heat to get there. The theoretical number is 600 calories of heat, per gram of water, taken from the soil to make evaporation happen.

I like the shower cap for the example because it clearly demonstrates that evaporation in the soil does most certainly happen, and that all the water in the soil isn't being transpired by the plant.

I hope that doesn't all sound too geeky, but it might help some folks to understand how things are working together, and why. Might also help work out some of the variables.

cheers
os

Here’s some numbers in my grow area and I have two oil heaters in the room and two small humidifiers as I try to bring the basement temps and humidity up - I figure if the room is close it is easier maintain the tent ...... I’ve tried heaters and humidifiers in the tent but being a small tent that doesn’t work very well ...... Heres my current temps

Room 68 at night warming to to 70 in the day - humidity 50% - before I introduced the heaters / humidifiers room as like 63-64 with 40% humidity
Tent 80 during day - 78 or so when I first visit in the morning and heat in house is just coming on
Concrete Floor 67 degrees - Temp gun hits 68 in some spots and it was down in the 64-65 range before I started hearing the room couple weeks ago
Soil - Probe Temp Gauge and this number has risen over the last couple days 75.5

If I had a heat mat under the containers soil would be even warmer and I would not have that 5-7 degree temp difference between soil and air

@MMMi adjusting room is the best route and as Sinse says one thing at a time - venting back into the room could make a big difference

 

[MMMi]

Indoor venting could make a difference, but as it stands now (I have a 6x10 tent and only grow in about a 5x5 space) I'm running the heater on the lowest watt setting at half heat and I am already 76 lights on, 69 lights off. If I changed venting, it would have to wait until I shuffle everything to access the ducts.

I totally get the evaporative cooling effect, that's exactly what a swamp cooler does. I think some of that is mitigated in the Juniors that have decent covers on them.

 

[Organic Sinse]

Here’s some numbers in my grow area and I have two oil heaters in the room and two small humidifiers as I try to bring the basement temps and humidity up - I figure if the room is close it is easier maintain the tent ...... I’ve tried heaters and humidifiers in the tent but being a small tent that doesn’t work very well ...... Heres my current temps

Room 68 at night warming to to 70 in the day - humidity 50% - before I introduced the heaters / humidifiers room as like 63-64 with 40% humidity
Tent 80 during day - 78 or so when I first visit in the morning and heat in house is just coming on
Concrete Floor 67 degrees - Temp gun hits 68 in some spots and it was down in the 64-65 range before I started hearing the room couple weeks ago
Soil - Probe Temp Gauge and this number has risen over the last couple days 75.5

If I had a heat mat under the containers soil would be even warmer and I would not have that 5-7 degree temp difference between soil and air

@MMMi adjusting room is the best route and as Sinse says one thing at a time - venting back into the room could make a big difference

That’s a warm concrete basement floor for winter. Must not be too cold in your neck of the woods (which is good).
i was thinking floor surface temps in the 50’s at best.
cheers
os